Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
I want to go faster.
User avatar
By grandpakenny
#146577
I have two KFX ATV running off two batteries each, one wired for 24v, with gear upgrades (ML Toys), the other running 12v with extended run time. I can not find gear upgrades for the Wild Thing, but I have a plan.

The Wild Thing has a speed selector. One flashing light through five. At five it is just a little faster than the stock KFX, probably due to weight of machine, and only pushing two wheels. I'm thinking the speed control is a rheostat of sorts. If I run it at three blinks, I should be good. Small boost in speed, and extended run time. See how hot it gets, maybe go to four. Replacement gears are $35 + $35, right and left, as a back up plan.

Does my plan sound good? I would get gear upgrades if they were available. I do not want to go to 18 volts, as I have two good Odyssey 6amp 12v chargers, no 6v chargers, and like the idea of staying with all 12v batteries - have 6, probably getting more. Mighty Max 15ah, and the stock. The one with two batteries running 12v is a stock plus a 12ah Mighty Max.
User avatar
By toycrusher
#146622
Have a picture of your ride? How and when did you get it?
User avatar
By grandpakenny
#146652
Sorry for the delay. I have been meaning to set up a hosting service. I'll get on it this weekend. Do you use Imgur?

I bought the Wild Thing last year at Black Friday, $200. Followed that up with two Kawasaki ATV. Still working the kinks out of the 24v system. My battery tender connector is getting hot. Think I may have to go to heavier wire?
User avatar
By grandpakenny
#146667
I am confused.
Point one: My two KFX are model number W4716-966V, date code 2996Q2. Do they have the new speed control system, and therefore should not be outfitted to run 24v with your 775 motors? Will this cause overheating at some point? I do not think that is what you meant, but I should ask.

Point two: The Wild Thing is model DFV03 9963, date code 2776Q2. I take it that if I send 24v to the blinking light thing, that is the speed control, and it will fail before the power can be stepped down to level three.

It seems clear that point two is exactly what you mean. So of course I am wondering if there is a way to switch out the stock speed control, to do the equivalent of running at 18v, but with 24v. A rheostat or something. Or, bypass the speed control, run with actual 18v. Unchartered territory here, I understand. I am willing to try to push 18v through the motors, replace if they burn. It seems it should be an easy thing to bypass the speed control.

Thanks for any help.
User avatar
By M.L.Toys
#146672
Only the new Wild Thing and one new Mustang model has their ESC. The rest of the models, including your other two, are ok to mess with voltage and motors.

We've got the esc sitting in the shop but won't have time to do more R&D until the winter. I can tell you that it will fail the second you hit the throttle at 18 or 24v just by reading the components.
User avatar
By grandpakenny
#146673
Copy that.
I am going to try to find a rheostat I can wire in, after bypassing the speed control. I haven't had time to really look at the machine, but it should be simple to just bypass that control. Wires in, wires out.
Of course, if you say nix that, I will look for another route. No liability on your part, goes without saying, but I will say it.
User avatar
By toycrusher
#146676
It can be done with a pair of relays per side and possibly a,new pair of joysticks
User avatar
By grandpakenny
#146694
toycrusher wrote:It can be done with a pair of relays per side and possibly a,new pair of joysticks

I am still playing catch up on the info I need. What I do not know, I am willing to learn.
Tell me more about this.
Are we talking going to 18v?
I saw some conversions to a single joystick. Is that where you are headed?
The relays sound like an easy thing.
User avatar
By toycrusher
#146708
grandpakenny wrote:
toycrusher wrote:It can be done with a pair of relays per side and possibly a,new pair of joysticks

I am still playing catch up on the info I need. What I do not know, I am willing to learn.
Tell me more about this.
Are we talking going to 18v?
I saw some conversions to a single joystick. Is that where you are headed?
The relays sound like an easy thing.


You could ditch all the factory wiring, install two SPDT joysticks, wire them to independent relay banks, one per motor. They can share the same batteries. Downside to it is that it can be rather "jerky" when getting started and you wouldn't have brakes
User avatar
By toycrusher
#146736
I'm thinking this might be a good place to start http://kellycontroller.com/

They make many different motor controllers. You want one that is auto forward/reverse and uses a wig-wag throttle input (means center is zero, and it goes forward one direction and opposite in reverse). You would need two of those setups.

Or you might look into joystick wheelchair controllers. They already do exactly what we want, control two motors with one multi-axis joystick.

Or, you could use a joystick like this (http://www.robotshop.com/en/3-axis-joys ... utton.html) and learn to program an Arduino to translate the joystick inputs into motor motion

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