Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
I want to go faster.
User avatar
By Dantiff2
#140641
Hi ya'll. I decided to join after doing countless online searches to no avail. I fixed (or thought I did anyway) my sons Kawasaki KFX four wheeler the other day after one of the two motors burned up. This machine is a little over two years old with lots of ride time put in on it so I figured it was time... While ordering the upgraded Traxxas 1585 (550) motor, I went ahead and got two to do both at the same time. The wiring is the same gauge and the 4 wheeler is noticeably faster BUT. It shuts off after a few minutes. I am certain it is an over heating problem because it goes again after a short cool down only to shut off again. What in the world can I do to prevent this?? :?:

Thanks in advance

Dan
By Suburbancharlie77
#140645
Hi, welcome.
Could be a few things....
What batteries are you using? Could be the fuse? The more powerful motors can be drawing more juice, but once the self resetting breaker pops the first time, they diminish their capacity and pop easier until they pop for no reason. Use an aftermarket battery with a fuse to test this theory, fuse would require replacement.

Could be heat, add a cooling fan attachment with fins to each motor.

Could be caused by binding in the gearbox if the correct holes or pinion weren't used.
User avatar
By Dantiff2
#140652
Batteries are factory. I have two of them and they seem to have great capacity so I'm not interested in changing them out yet. I will have to look into a wiring diagram to see where the self resetting breaker is. I thought about the fan cooled heat sinks but then realized that my boys R/C car has the same motors and it appears that they get even hotter on the rc car with no issues so I do believe something on the KFX is overheating and not the motors. I don't think anything inside the gearbox is binding. It all appears smooth and the correct pinion were used. Gear mesh is correct. I did find an article talking about tightening the axle lock nuts too tight would put strain on the system so I will loosen these to see if that helps at all.

Thanks
Dan
User avatar
By taz11
#140655
The breaker is in the factory battery. This is a common issue with upgraded vehicles. You could try putting both batteries wired in parallel so that the two breakers share the load. Assuming you can find a way to get both batteries in the vehicle at one time. Using a SLA battery with an external fuse is your other option. The stock batteries are superior quality, but they just don't work well with increased current draw.
User avatar
By Dantiff2
#140766
I did a little digging this past weekend. I tore the top cover off the OEM battery and was able to find the thermal link that I do believe is the fault.. My question is why would the Traxxas motors make this link compromise and not the factory motors?? Can this link be modified? Can I somehow cut enough of the plastic battery shell away to get to this breaker and modify the breaker? I hate to have to buy new batteries since these are in great condition. I guess I could cut into the PW to try and get another battery inside but I would like to try something else first before I start cutting. I don't want to have to explain to the wife why I'm cutting up the kids riding toy! LOL

Dan
By Suburbancharlie77
#140768
I really don't see you having any other option to provide 12 volts a fuse or circuit-breaker and adapt to the factory wiring you're not really going to be able to replace the stock circuit breaker but you can't use jumper cables to your car and get any use out of it unfortunately you're at a Crossroads where you have to buy a battery and make up your own wiring I don't even know if a local auto parts would be able to test your battery with that fuse in there?? But I really don't see any options you can buy a stock battery or you can buy to aftermarkets for basically the same price not many other options you need the vehicle to be able to roll out so that you can so that you can find the cause of the problem most likely being inside the old battery.
User avatar
By Dantiff2
#140778
I appreciate the help. What is the best aftermarket battery to buy? Would it be roughly the same size as the original?
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By Suburbancharlie77
#140779
Do you have any other power wheels vehicles that you are planning to "share" this battery with?
I'm using a 12v 12ah with the holster removed, and a scrap of 2x4 to keep it tight. Also have a 6v 12ah sideways up above towards the back just under the seat.
But I have far more rides than batteries. If your sharing batteries, that probably the ones to get. If not, get the largest 12v that will fit to achieve a longer drive time, if you plan to stay 12v. Gruber sells them, or battery sharks does have a nice by size layout for choosing.
User avatar
By toycrusher
#140782
I like the 10ah batteries from gruber or similar. They fit in most any ride and have sufficient run time
User avatar
By Dantiff2
#140790
Is it safe to say that any battery that I get from Gruber that will fit should be okay (12v of course)? Do any of these have the thermal switch in them like the PW batteries do? I see a 12 Ah that I might give a shot.
Thanks for all the help.

Dan
User avatar
By toycrusher
#140792
Any battery with terminals on top have no internal fuse. You would be save
User avatar
By Dantiff2
#140838
Good news!

I was able to modify both of my factory PW batteries and the KFX now runs great! The thermal breaker is very easy to get to. The first battery I popped the top off to find it. Then opened the breaker to see what was going on. There is a contact point inside that rests on the opposite post maintaining current until the post gets warm then the arm slightly opens up. It never even gets hot before it opens so this is a very over protective switch.. I bent the opposing post upward pushing the contact point arm upward so now there is force holding the two together. On the second battery (now that I know what I'm dealing with) I was able to just drill a 1/2" hold directly into the thermal switch through the plastic battery housing and do the same to the terminal post. My boys were riding all day yesterday with no problems! I can see now that the stock plastic tires are going to be the next to go ;)

Dan
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By Suburbancharlie77
#140839
Yes that would work, however that most likely is the equivalent of eliminating the breaker! Your "bend" has zero calibration, and now with that said, you'd need to add a fuse in order to provide any level of circuit protection to have some kind of way to prevent the ride from becoming a moving pile of napalm underneath you boys butt!
You've essentially welded the contacts, which is why we said there's nothing to be done with the breaker. You don't know if it will trip at 50 or 150 amp draw, when it should be at 30 amp MAX! That wasn't a good fix
Be sure to watch for the plume of black smoke, and the smell of burnt hair, as those will be the tell tale signs of an epic fail.
User avatar
By Dantiff2
#140840
It'll get an in-line 30A fuse as soon as I get out to get one but with the 14-16 GA wiring all through the buggy, I doubt it'll draw enough to do any harm. It's certainly not drawing 50 or the wires would be hot and really soft.
By Roadmonkeytj
#140845
÷1 on the needing of circuit protection. You may have had week thermal units but now there is nothing stopping them from a failure ... Which do happen I've seen over heated batteries explode and rip through sheet metal. You don't want that to be your kids butt. I would also add a cooling can to pull any heat out of the batt. Compartment. Remember that they strenuously test these things the way they designed them... You've moddified it and have to make acceptance of the fact you still need to protect it. To give you an idea. I watched a brand new ski boat burn on the lake the other day when they let the smoke out of it. Yes I hear you saying that's a boat not a power wheel ... Point is it can happen and we just don't want to read about that when a kid gets hurt that way. Besides the way they push gun laws when someone goes off the deep end they might try to make a law against modified kids toys .... Already tried to do it to hot rods
By Roadmonkeytj
#140846
÷1 on the needing of circuit protection. You may have had week thermal units but now there is nothing stopping them from a failure ... Which do happen I've seen over heated batteries explode and rip through sheet metal. You don't want that to be your kids butt. I would also add a cooling can to pull any heat out of the batt. Compartment. Remember that they strenuously test these things the way they designed them... You've moddified it and have to make acceptance of the fact you still need to protect it. To give you an idea. I watched a brand new ski boat burn on the lake the other day when they let the smoke out of it. Yes I hear you saying that's a boat not a power wheel ... Point is it can happen and we just don't want to read about that when a kid gets hurt that way. Besides the way they push gun laws when someone goes off the deep end they might try to make a law against modified kids toys .... Already tried to do it to hot rods
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