M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
I want to go faster.
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By parrafin23
Hey guys & Girls, Greetings from Norway!
I did not find exact this description of this vehicle on this board, sorry if it is one present..

So I bought this vehicle for my son.. hees 5
The 2.nd gear was locked and that was a good thing to be honest.. My son has some experience riding the lawn mover, but that is from my lap and not alone.. So buying this thing to him was an exelent idea.. At first he was kida scared of it.. He was just dabbing the pedal... but i gave him 20 mins and he was flooring it all around our yard after those minutes. the next day I removed the locked 2.nd gear and now hees stuck with it.. gear?? Heck no!!!! when he was inside eating i went outside and locked the 2.nd gear so I could see what hees reaction was.. lol.. He jumped in the vehicle and floored it like he's used too, then he vehicle stoped and a looooouuuuuud cry!! He came in, with tears in hees eyes and said it was broken. It did not go as fast as usual, so I have to fix it.. OFC.. Daddy fixxes everything!!! So I went out and removed the locking pin and he was all over the moon again! BUT.. There is a B I G But comming.. After reading on this Forum and watching on youtube.. I just know I have to do some mods sooner or later to it and thats not even a question on to mod or not to mod.

So I just had a quick look @the vehicle now, and first of all I can see the battery "back" its made out of 2x12v batteries in series.. making 24v.. the charger is 24v "Smart" charger not quite smart to be honest looking inside of it, but anyway.. This Vehicle has 2 motors, one on each wheel.. I can see a bunch of wires on there.. and a aluminium heat sink with a resistor on it. I guess. when you have selected gear the power from the battery goes to the gass pedal, to the gear selector and to the resistor and to the motors.. when 2.nd gear is selected it just bypasses the resistor.. This is just my quick thinking.. I do not beleave that there is any "inteligent" electronics onboard to play with. So There is potential to do some voltage upgrades to it i think..

I have an extra 12v battery here that im goin to charge up and try and wire it up for 36v.. But im not sure how much "punishment" the motors can take.. we have some smal "hills" that he drives up and down and what not.. mix of gras,gravel and tarmac.

If anyone have some insigts on the wiring and perhaps a diagram for it, please point me in the right direction..
I like to thinker with stuff.. I allways do with new toys.. Im born that way. :D


lights`n`Stuff is not first priority to be honest.. I like to figure out what makes it tick and how it does it, So I can repair it if something goes wrong with it..

I heard from my local dealer that they are introducing Lipo conversation kits sometime next year (2018). I cant wait to put some lipos in this..


By Rob222
You bought a new Superpower ? Nice.
Don't add that third battery.

There are two versions of Superpowers. The gray/orange 1st generation on the left has huge scooter motors and foam tires. The black 2nd generation version got smaller 700 series motors and rubber tires. I swapped the bumpers on the two in the picture because they look better.

Both have 24v controller-boards under the seats (take the seats out by unscrewing the red knob underneath them and then remove the plastic cover plate). The circuit boards would not like 36v at all. My 1st gen runs perfect with the stock controller board and wiring. The black one got a complete aftermarket ESC upgrade after the stock board died.
2 Supers.JPG
2 Supers.JPG (140.29 KiB) Viewed 1988 times
My black one only has D (drive) and R (reverse) on the shifter. Under the gas cap is a small switch with 3 max speeds.
Your newer black version has 1/2/R on the shifter. The shifter actually is wired to the controller board to limit top speed.

Both my SuperPowers have separate throttle and brake pedals. The brakes are actually cable operated disks in the rear. From reading it sounds like your newer one has "auto brakes" and brakes when the throttle is released (maybe by shorting the motors together).

If the steering is hard or difficult for your kid then tip the jeep on its back end (on an old blanket) and grease all the steering contact/slide points. You will have to remove a plastic cover from the steering rack. It makes a huge difference.

Have fun but maybe rethink the 3rd battery
Heya Rob, You are right there is a control board underneath the seats.. its the 2.nd gen.
Pictures are too large to be uploaded here!!! How Rude!! :D

My son had a friend come over yesterday, Both where riding it and all of the sudden the vehicle stoped and the buzzer sounded.. I grabbed the motors by hand to check for temp.. Not hot at all.. So there has to be a current limiting device and a temp sensor that kicks in and when it trips, the buzzer comes to life.

From what I can see on the pcb found under the seat, I see the relays, Im guessing those are for forward and reverse.
2 big caps for smoothing perhaps motor start, a Mosfet i guess mounted to a cooling fin of some sort.. 1 1/2w resistor and 3 more caps i think it is.. all this are bonded and glued in with resin, so finding out and perhaps reverse ingeneer this stuff might be difficult.. I did not remove the pcb to look on the underside of the board for more componenets, but I see an aditional 2 pin connector and a 5 pin perhaps it is that is not used.. I do wounder what that is all about.. It might be for the Remote kill thingy that I do not have..

So yeah.. baning in more than 24v might blow these caps pretty violently and with fun fumes of smoke.

The mosfet would survive, but i cant see any control chips, they might be burried under the resin for all that i know..

Perhaps get an aftermarked esc and rip out the pcb thats in there and replace? is that the way to go with these?

By Rob222
When the circuit board on our black one died I replaced it with dual aftermarket controllers and relays.
This was not that easy because of packaging it all.
Also, I initially made the stock hall-effect throttle work with the aftermarket ESCs (see link attached) but the stock throttle broke recently so I replaced it with an aftermarket hall-effect throttle (works much better - see other link attached for an example).
One thing to note is that I did my upgrade with dual 500w ESCs because they were real cheap and I had them around. I would use a single 1000w esc next time to make the wiring easier and use less relays. But the current setup does work really well and it runs way better than stock.

SuperPower ESC upgrade: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=19929
Hall-effect throttle upgrade example: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=19928

There is no temperature sensor or alarm buzzer on these that I know of.

p.s. just keep sizing your pictures smaller until they fit.

It was quite easy to rezise the pictures in Paint when i looked for that option..
Gaspedal1.jpg (158.01 KiB) Viewed 1917 times
Motor.jpg (209.91 KiB) Viewed 1917 times
Resistor.jpg (172.87 KiB) Viewed 1917 times
Motor Tray.jpg
Motor Tray.jpg (194.39 KiB) Viewed 1917 times
Electronics.jpg (206.94 KiB) Viewed 1917 times
So this is how it looks like on the 2.nd gen units..

All circuit controlled crap. The only good thing i can think of is that you do not run your battery too low on voltage, as i experienced last night when i was goin to "park" it, it drove for a sec and the stoped and started biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiip'in on me. Low battery warning. I guess there is an overload protection too but with 680w of motors, it should have plenty of torque when the batteries are fully charged.. But you know what its like, you have something and you want to see what more it can do, How futher you can push it. Its best to not fiddle with it atleast before the waranty runs out on it, and thats 2 years from now.. but its a good idea to plan ahead so you are prepared for when it breaks down..


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