M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
I want to go faster.
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By Herdfan2005
My dad had bought my son a 6v Batmobile from Walmart and it was way too slow for my son. He is only 2 but has a 12v Gator and wanted the same speed. I did and 18v upgrade last night and the car is exactly what I want. Problem is its only running off one motor (stock) and is only driven by one wheel. Is there a kit I can buy to convert it to both rear wheels instead of the stock right wheel. I was also going to buy to 550 Titans. Thanks for the help guys. If you need pictures just let me know.

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By sheltonfilms
Got the same car for my son. Probably my favorite RO based on looks.

First thing I did was put a 7.0 Ah 12V battery in it. IF you unscrew the blue casing around the factory battery you can just cut the leads off and put female disconnects on it for the bigger battery. 12V battery fits in the factory slot with the velcro strap perfectly.

After a week of use one of the teeth of the gearbox broke. Couldn't tell if it was takeoff or braking. Anyways I called Ballard Pacific (manufacturer) and they sent me a new gearbox with the motor attached and also a coupler (washer adapter that goes between gearbox and wheel). They sent it free because it was under warranty, but if you bought it from them it's $25. In the mean time I 3d printed a replacement gear for the other one.

Great thing about this car is you already have the hole for the motor on the other side and the other wheel has the "kidney" shapes built in to interface with the gear box.

Problem is because there isn't a gearbox on the driver's side, the axle has a spacer welded to the axle to offset the wheel. It also has a set screw going through the body from the bottom into it to keep the axle in place. It is welding using two rosette welds. I drill these two welds out, cut down this spacer in half, drill a new screw hold and had it hold in place using hose clamps. Washer at end of spacer has to be ground down a little to allow it to go into the hole of the gearbox. You will see all of this when you look at it. Also you don't need the plastic cage that screws around the motor, they stay in place fine without them.

I pulled the pedal out and added a 1 ohm 5w resistor to the shorting side to damping the braking. Much better.

The motors included are 540 motors (should only use 6V) so I bought heatsinks for them off Amazon. Once these burn up, I will switch to proper 550 HPI motors (don't want to worry about dealing with reverse and forward tuned motors). 540 and 550 are the same diameter and mounting, 550 is just a little longer.

The wiring on this car is tiny and I will eventually rewire with 14 gauge.

If you don't do dual wheel you will be buying wheels quickly. My son drove the one-legged 12v setup for maybe a month and the "grip teeth" on the center of the wheels has already ground down from spinning on takeoff and braking. With the posi-traction dual motor setup at 12v there is no slip on take off.

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By Kambot
I'm (still) in the process of upgrading my son's from 6v to 18v, but I'm not aware of any kits. Frankly, no one who's into modifying power wheels will make upgrade parts for the batmobile, apparently the gearbox/ gears are very weak and prone to failing.

You need a second gearbox assembly to make both rear wheels turn. The gearbox for the lightning McQueen scooter is the same as for the batmobile. the batmobile itself already has the holes drilled to accept two rear gearboxes. You can get a 2nd gearbox from Ballard Pacific for $25 (if they're in stock, see link at bottom).

You'll also need a new rear axle. I went to the hardware store and bought a piece of aluminum round bar that is the same diameter as the rear axle, cut it to length and put hex-key stop collars on the ends to lock it in place. You can thread the ends, use cotter pins, etc., but a lock collar works well enough so far (squeeze the wheels together using a bar clamp before setting the stop collar will ensure the "kidneys" always engage the wheel).

Also, if you wire in series you'll halve the voltage to each motor (@ 9v). That shouldn't toast the stock motor. Running the transmissions in parallel will give full 18v to both rear motors. I'm adding a low-high switch to mine.

If you upgrade to a 2nd gearbox and add a traxxis motor to the driver's side, make sure you buy a reverse rotation traxxis motor for the passenger side as well. If not, you'll need to reverse the polarity of the wires on the passenger side (and may have "timing" issues with the passenger side motor as well).

Finally, here's the catch; the entire wiring harness was likely only built to handle 6v. I'm in the process of upgrading all the switches & wires in the entire drive train to handle up to 30 amps, because of the increased load from both motors pulling 18 volts.

Hope this helps! ... ox-kindney

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