M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
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I want to go faster.
By chugger93
Hey all,

I've done some 6V to 12V conversions in the past with other powerwheels. Been a few years, but aquired two new dune racers for my 4 and 5 year olds. They have the stock 12V 2-5mph stuff going on in them. I want to take them to 18V I think. I dont have much experience screwing with the gearboxes and motors, so was thinking to keep stock but throw another 6V battery in series.

I also don't really wanna spend $200 on new gearboxes or motors. They are expensive! I figure at the least I could get the heatsinks from mltoys ( and that will help?

Anyone have dune racers and are the motors hard to access? We do mostly concrete/sidewalk driving, so speed is more of a concern than torque and traction. Although the kids have been known to drive a tad on the grass.

Any recommendations? I'm capable of digging into the gearboxes if necessary, but if swapping a motor is easier and can give me good results, i'm good with that. Thanks!
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By dfreas
I just did a 24v conversion on a Dune Racer and posted it here:

I doubt the heat sinks will help you any. The motor housings are made of steel which isn't a great heat conductor so strapping a heat sink on to the outside of that is more likely to insulate it further than actually cool the interior of the motor. Startup surge is the bigger problem anyway and no heatsink can dissipate the internal heat of a wire faster than it builds up from the current spike. (physics degree and years of tinkering experience here, so take that for what you will) What generally fries motors is heat buildup in adjacent wires melting the wire coating and shorting out the coil - the overall temp of the motor is practically irrelevant to that situation unless you're talking about gradual buildup over extended (hours) runtimes which with ride on vehicles is not the case.

Motors are pretty easy to get to on the Dune Racer. There are a bunch of screws all along the outside of the back black plastic housing that you'll need to remove - along with two hidden screws that are under the back plastic that covers the gearboxes on each side of that central piece. So you'll need to remove the side gearbox covers first to get to those last two screws and remove the central motor/battery housing cover.

Once that is off the motors are just sitting there plain to see. They are soldered to the wires so you'll need a soldering iron to undo the connections and two screws mount them to the gearbox. That's it.

Stock motors and the Easy ESC are the way I went and I can definitely recommend it, but I can understand if you don't want to spend much on this. If you're trying to just get a speed boost cheap I wouldn't bother with motor upgrades or heatsinks - just overvolt the stock motors and run them till they fry.

Another thing I noticed with my kids is that the extended run time made as much difference as the increased speed. Nothing worse than a dead powerwheel. So switching over to 18ah batteries is worth it if you are going to be changing batteries anyway.
By chugger93
Well I just found some 10AH batteries on amazon for like 18 bucks. Didnt wanna spend 40 or more on x2 batteries that I would need which is like $80 or more. I'm just looking for some budget speed. lol Thanks though for all that info. I will check out your other thread.
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By Hammer-fm
If you don't need more torque, you could also just install these and get a ~45% bump in speed at 12V.

Cheap, easy... I've used this on a few pavement runners and they work well enough, and they won't overheat like running the stock ones at 18V.

If you want 18V, you can do the 7013F conversion. Both of these are near the bottom of the motor/gearbox database thread here
User avatar
By Jahkneefive
I have 2 dunes that are both running 18v and stock motors/gears. Dont bother with the heat sinks, but I'd strongly rec upgrading to 12g wiring to deal with the increased load/heat. getting 18ah batteries in the box is going to be fun, if you take out the side plastic guides they might barely fit. i run 10ah(6 and 12) 18v setup and am able to barely wedge the batteries in the stock mount tab location. My vote would be get 2 sets of 10ah batteries rather than a monster 18ah setup. This will save you probably half the battery weight(18ah batteries approach 10-12lbs) and will fit in the stock location. Not to mention it forces the kids to take a break every now and then. You'll also want to put an inline fuse holder in with a 40A fuse. You can use a 30A, but with heavier kids and/or hot days you'll pop them every few minutes. Get a stock PW connector harness and the inline from MLtoys.

Now if you are dead set on the 18ah you can just re-run the wiring to put the 12v in the stock box and the 6v in the front box. Not a bad idea to have a little extra weight over the wheels anyways.

Rewiring for 12g is fairly simple. There are a few youtubes with detailed walk throughs in removing everything. For wiring I like the soft flexible stuff from bentech on amazon. Comes in 10ft sections and the stuff is cake to bend and route.

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