Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
I want to go faster.
#149258
Hi all,

First thank you in advance for the intelligent replies it is much appreciated.

I have an older Gator peg machine that I got from a friend. I have the rebuild kit, and replaced some parts (shifter and pedal) to make it work again. Since the batteries went bad I started using car batteries, first 1 and then (2) for 24v. I have some spare motor and gearboxes I need to install because I think there is a little slip now. I will do that.

My main question is if there is a walk thru guide to do a full upgrade? My kids (twins 4 years old) also have a stock Polaris RZR peg on 12v. I would like to fully modify the older style gator to do 24v.

From my reading it looks like an electronic speed controller is a good idea to save wear and tear on the gear boxes and provide option to go both faster or slower, using both motors and wheels. This is true? If so which kit or parts would I need for an older style Peg Perego Gator machine? Is there anything else I would need to do? or purchase?

I am asking from the best option and path because I would rather just do it from the start, rather than keep breaking it and fixing it and learning the hard way. I am handy with tools and can do the required work with adequate instruction.

I am also looking to purchase new batteries. What is a good option? (2) 12v? or (3) 6v for 18v?
#149263
stick with 12 or 18... 24 gets very expensive very quick. 18v on the Pegs is plenty fast and the gear boxes and motors work great with 18v. The ESC is a great one and done option, but by no means required. Upgrade the wiring, replace/upgrade the stock circuit breakers to 30/40A and then maybe add a brake reduction circuit and you should be all set for plenty of fun.

On mine I upgraded to some quality 12g wiring, swapped the breakers out for 40A push-buttons, added rubber step pads around the tires, and run it in 12 or 18 depending on which kids drives it(all you need is a bridge wire to connect the positive to negative). 99% of the time its on grass so I didn't see a need for the brake circuit. If you run on primarily concrete I'd skip the rubber and/or add the brake circuit to reduce the jar on the gears.

For batteries run a 6v and 12v SLA and match the mahs(most common is 12mah). Allows you to run 12 or 18 without issue and most modern chargers can charge both 6v and 12v.
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