Gruber
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M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Need new batteries? Going from 12V to 18V or 6V to 12V? Wiring Questions?
#144508
I am ramping up again for another race season and I am wanting to make the jump from 12v to 18v. What I wanted to know was if a simple unit such as this



Would fit the bill. I worry about heat. What are some issues that I may run into? Has anyone successfully done this in the past?

Thanks you for any help!

Took a bit of a break and sold off a bunch of my PWs. Looking to get these running ASAP as I have a swarm of children ready to rumble!
#144516
Usually it's around 20-30amps peak for a short time under acceleration, climbing hills or when a tire gains traction suddenly. It may only run +\- 10amps or so when running but I've had a few 30amp fuses blow especially on modified rides. The larger vehicles like the hurricane I have are fused at 40amps from the factory.
It looks like the one you linked to is only rated at just over 10amps peak so I don't think it will perform as you are intending.
#144518
The next step up would be 15 Amp. The track that we will be racing on is on flat terrain and will be dirt for kids that are about 30- 60lbs each do you think the 15 Amps would be enough? Not trying to be cheap, but these things get pretty pricey pretty quick. From what I could tell on these motors they spiked up towards 20 amps to start (with me inside) then dropped to 8-9 amps while I was moving without obstruction, then I also tested them while I was inside and driving and pressed against a wall, where it maxed out at about 13-14 amps. It seemed that each motor pulled 12v consistently and the same amps(given the same conditions). Since they were pulling from the same source would it make sense that if I purchased 1 Step Up kit with a 15 amp draw that they would each draw a max of up to 15 amps since that is apparently what they are already doing? Or since I would be stepping up the Voltage would it require more Amps to accommodate?

I will be using 12v 23Ahr batteries.
#144520
Generally speaking, you do not want to run electronics at the max rating 100% of the time. If I thought I was going to be safe with a 15A, I'd get a 25A.

Whats the price difference of 1 30A unit compared to several of the 15A ones you'll likely melt? Just sayin'
#144522
Just out of curiosity, why are you trying to use a step up converter rather than wiring batteries in series to get 18v. The step up would seem to just add another failure point in the setup that dosen't really make anything easier. Stepping up the voltage is also going to increase your amperage on the feed (line in) side of the converter which might then need increased wire and or fuse size to accommodate. This extra amperage draw will also reduce your runtime. Unless you are strapped for space or weight on the batteries it seems more work to achieve a less than equivalent result.
#144523
wired wrote:CHEAP, FAST & DEPENDABLE.......PICK TWO. :D


So true, One of my favorite quotes! I've been using that for years. I even apply it to my career when I hear complaints about prices on electrical work.
#144536
Looks like the higher amp step-ups get expensive so why not just use two of your 12v batteries and a cheap 24v ESC. You may be money ahead. Then if you really only want run 18v to the motors just limit the hall-effect throttle with a resistor.
#144552
I like the way you think, I have these huge batteries and that would allow me to not have to change them since the discharge would be split between them. Good thinking. Thanks everyone for your ideas and input!

Did you have any good links to a ESC kit? I have seen a few on Amazon and Ebay, but didn't know if there was a real great source anyone had.
#144554
The EastCoast kit is the only kit that I know of and seems complete with good instruction videos.
http://eastcoastpowerup.com/index.php?r ... uct_id=123

I purchased inexpensive 24v ESCs and relays from China so you can put an inexpensive kit together yourself but shipping takes a long time and the China stuff seems cheap (but works). But you still have to source all the other stuff like switches, wire, connectors, fuse....

If you really only use the ride-on to race then you can even eliminate the fwd/rev relay to make wiring easier.

The EastCoast kit comes with a plastic or metal hall-effect throttle. I don't like either one. Check out the premium throttle from Electricscooterparts Item # THR-89 http://www.electricscooterparts.com. I used it on the build below and it was easy to mount and to mechanically limit the movement :
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=19928

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