M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
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Need new batteries? Going from 12V to 18V or 6V to 12V? Wiring Questions?
By Suburbancharlie77
First up to 12 volts

It's a novel, but with a bonus at the bottom. Have a read through, gain some knowledge, answer some questions, and find out something that you would have never imagined!

To get another/ better charger won't break the bank, and will greatly benefit you in the long run (in more ways than you think). There's 3 really good options that will do more than just the ride on, 6 or 12 volt, and one that provides adapters for 3 different style batteries, and do the job quicker. All can charge your car, lawnmower, solar system, jet ski, or sump pump. They range $30-40, and fully automatic to switch voltage/amperage based on sensing. Also, it is my understanding from reading for hours and hours, that you don't want to exceed 1/4 of the amp hour as a charge rate. FOR EXAMPLE
charging a 4ah battery of any voltage at 3 amp is going to deteriorate the battery. But charging a 12ah at 3 amps is fine.

Edit: I noticed sometimes a random Amazon link seems to fail, but simply click it, then return to this post. The Amazon promotional advertising will go away and the information that you are seeking is redisplayed

My personal favorite due to words telling you what is going on, 1-3 amp

Designed for power wheels, peg perego, and motion trendz

Basic system 1.5 amp rate with idiot lights

All have quick connect end terminals at the battery end to allow easy transition from kids ride on to previously attached ends or charge ports on your other equipment. By creating your own ends your options are limitless. Different models are supplied with different connectors such as power wheels 12 volt battery adapters, peg perego adapter, 6/12 motion trendz, eyelets with fuse, alligator clips, and a cigarette lighter adapter. But additionally, all the mentioned adapters are available from the manufacturer as an accessory product for a reasonable price, and simply plugs into any of the 3 chargers. If you're comfortable with your electrical knowledge you can also order Napa part number 784640 to create your own ends, keeping in mind only one side of the Napa part will be properly color coded. All chargers enter float/trickle mode when fully charged, but the word readout 3 amp SP-3 model advertises desulfation in addition to having a soft start which means when the battery is not connected and the terminals get bumped into each other there's no sparks!

But you can build any necessary creation needed to accommodate charging the batteries. The charge wiring doesn't need to be beefy, as it's only handling a few amps. Just make sure that you have the polarity correct, because chargers (like the stock one) don't normally have any reverse polarity protection. I believe all of these have a shut down for being connected backwards, and I know for a fact that the one with a digital display (model SP3) does! Also, somewhere around the forum (I can never find it when I want to though) is a schematic that you can charge the battery in the car, while a simple relay shuts down the gas pedal, preventing little ones from yanking your charger off the shelf, out of the wall, and being dragged down to the park! Also some schematics for charging more than one battery, as well as connecting more than one charger for batteries of different voltage. I personally have spoken with Schumacher, specifically asking if all of these can be left connected to a battery for 24/7/365, and the answer has repeatedly been YES! Do that with the stock charger for a week, and you're likely to toast the batteries.

Obviously there are more than just these 3 chargers out there, but when you consider bang for the buck, the buck stops here with Schumacher and their 75 years of business. The factory charger for your toy will most likely cost more than any of these, charge only the toy, charge at a slower rate taking play time away from your child, can cook the battery if left unattended, and have no versatility throughout your life. These charges will be with you long after the toy has moved on.
Schumacher should have me in their advertising/promotional department!
This has not been a paid endorsement nor does the writer have any affiliation to the manufacturer.

Personally, I've been getting my batteries from ... -s/456.htm

As they were the first provider recommended to me by another addict. Great prices and super fast shipping to the Midwest. They have a distributor about 20 miles from my house. There's also gruber, that advertises here, that many people have been using for years. But at the insanely low expense of a battery, it's worth having at least a spare, because as you know, the used one you may have received doesn't last long, and your child's smiles, squeals, and laughter is why you're here in the first place! Just make sure that whatever you order, is to be sealed and appropriately sized, deep cycle style, and you protect with primarily a 30 amp fuse! 40 for a hurricane.
The stock 12 volt Power wheels tend to be in the 7-9 amp hour range, and a safety first I have doesn't say, but is a similar size as a 10ah I have.

Voltage fully charged should be....


60% charged, which may be the minimal charge for a circuit board driven vehicle, should be around.....


And I hope you charge the battery before it gets to the following voltages, because if they are still scooting yer kids butt around, there soon to stop, and much further and eternal damage can soon result.... 30% actually I have read that some "styles" of batteries can suffer damage even slightly below 50%, so mind the charge levels!

These numbers are for a battery that's just sitting, not under load, and preferably more than 24 hours off a charger. To obtain a "best test" give the battery a 10 second load (use an old style cigarette lighter, non LED bulb, or activate the power wheels) and then take your reading. This eliminates the surface charge, and provides you a real world voltage, after the battery has been off the charger for at least an hour. And remember, even though you may not be using the battery during winter, batteries love to get topped off regularly, so once a month pull the battery out of the warm storage and leave it on the charger for a while. Batteries last for a considerable amount longer when not left out in the cold in a halvsies state of charge. Think of your car, left in a train station parking lot for 3 months..... do you want to step off the last train, in a blizzard, and rely on the car starting? Well the few minutes and sense ( cents ) it costs to maintain the toy batteries, saves you dollars in the long run.

Generally speaking, most of the stock batteries are the same dimensions as a 12 volt 12 amp hour aftermarket. If you're planning to run multiple brands off of one battery, in the long run, it will be much less hassle for you to install a permanently installed fuse or breaker in the vehicle. Using female spade connectors to attach to the battery with each move, you'll find it much easier than searching for the correct adapter for "this" vehicle! And a permanent "protector" means it's there, and you don't have to worry bout having forgotten to add a fuse.

I advise you run the first multiple charge/discharge cycles of the battery using a fuse. Assuming the ride is a used, new to you, and your new to this, a fuse ensures that IF there's a problem, the toy is shut down PERIOD!!!
A breaker is fine AFTER you have some knowledge that the vehicle is working properly for a few miles, as a breaker will self reset after 30 or so seconds, say like if the vehicle is driven into a tree??? If you're out for a stroll, and the child decided to take over the nearest massive mud puddle, and the tires get stuck, it's really nice to have a breaker, because most people don't carry a pocket full of fuses! But again, that's AFTER you have some history of the rides condition.

Yes, you can scour the internet and find the proprietary end that came on your original battery, but we have witnessed some of those providers not to be the best for packaging their batteries, when ordering the "complete package". Getting a gruber or batteryshark battery there is at least a company with longevity and known people who have had pleasant experience with the company. Some of the shady distributors with poor business practices have not exactly been too quick with the refund either. So if you are looking for the battery connection, buy only that, and get the battery from a reliable source.

If you're comfortable reading this, expecting to do something with these numbers, you'll need a volt meter. Get one, there the cheapest thing you'll buy relating to a power wheel, and can be used for way more than all the nifty chargers above. You can use one to check a light bulb when set to oh (upside down horse shoe) or an outlet in the home when set to (anything above) 120 AC, or test AA,AAA,AAAA or any variety of battery.
Harbor freight sells them for $6, it's worth every penny versus all the hassle and aggravation of lugging around a dead battery! ... 20provided

Or here if you don't have a harbor freight nearby? ... G5EM1M0T45

Now over 12 volt

Schumacher offers a 16/24 volt charger
It comes with a 24V end but a 16V connector is available separately. The charger is a model CR2
I don't know anything more about it, and have no personal experience with it. And wish they would produce an 18 volt option!!!

But ya, if you are using a stock charger, have some airflow, and no combustibles nearby. It's only a what if, and less common than a bad new battery, but there's no technology in the stock charger to shut it down, and it will fry a battery, and batteries can cause some real damage!
Don't believe me, have a look at these links about house fires, "believed" to be caused by charging.

And an old member..... ... PIC_ID=136

Edited to add battery info, on several occasions

AND one last thing, please please please follow in the manufacturers footsteps and use a SLA (sealed lead acid) battery, and not your power tools lithium ion (li-ion tend to not like the extreme discharge rate, and there has been much discussion about an explosive factor due to that rate) or a car battery (simply put they weigh too darn much (these toys have high center of gravity and CAN TIP, a car battery can break an arm or leg, car batteries tend to be more likely to spill acid, and due to poorly ventilated confined space the explosive gas given off by a car battery can cause the toy or your garage to catch on fire!)
SLA's are readily available and for a similar cost. If you're putting in this much time into your kid, isn't their safety worth the time to do things right? Dangerous and kids don't mix, and last I checked, the return warranty has expired and you can't just trade them in for a newer model!

Need more convincing?

Last bumped by Suburbancharlie77 on Fri Sep 09, 2016 9:56 am.

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