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Need new batteries? Going from 12V to 18V or 6V to 12V? Wiring Questions?
So after upgrading my Peg Perego Gator XUV to pneumatic tires, 18v, and Ryobi variable speed drill switch throttle, as some warned, I ended up toasting the Ryobi drill switch after only a few outings (but it was awesome while it worked). Still using saltydog's article as guidance, I was intrigued by mention of "the beefier Milwaukee 28 volt Switch Category Number: 23-66-0023 for $45", so I got one to replace the burnt out Ryobi switch and seeing it in person, I can definitely see its much beefier, but now I'm totally confused as to how to properly wire it as it has 6 terminals (not 4 like the Ryobi) labeled B-, B+, M1, M2, M3, and S. Even using my ohm meter, I can't figure it out... I don't seem to get variable resistance off any of the ports to B+ when the switch is depressed lightly. Certain ports swap states between open and closed as the switch is depressed, but nothing seems variable. Has anyone wired one of these before and can offer some guidance?

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I can't offer you a definitive answer unfortunately. The parts diagrams (eg here) show a fairly standard brushed motor with two brushes, so I don't know what they would use the M3 or "S" terminals for. It doesn't show any detail about what plugs into the swtich.

A high-power switch will have a PWM controller inside and drive the MOSFET in PWM mode, so you won't get "normal" types of readings with a multimeter. You could hook it up to a battery and measure the voltage between two terminals and that should be variable, eg. M1-M2 voltage should vary with pedal depression and would reverse when you flip the direction (assuming those are indeed the right terminals for the motor connection).

Did you try connecting a motor between M1 & M2?
So, with a battery source on B-/B+, using my voltmeter I measure variable voltage across the following terminals as I depress the trigger: (all other combinations read no voltage whether trigger pressed or not)

Initially, i took a stab with connecting the motor across M1/S. But when hooked to the vehicle, it seemed to leak a small amount of voltage causing the motors to spin when off the ground. If it was on the ground/under the slightest bit of load, it would blow fuses (even before drill switch was pressed)... that is what caused me to rethink if I had the right terminal combination to connect the motor to.
It's possible that the "S" is the sense line for current sensing, which may or may not be used in the original design. However, I would think that functional could just be included inside the switch so I'm not sure why they'd need that.

What is the voltage between M1 and B+ or B- -- is it zero for either one (and does it become non-zero in reverse?)? What about M3 (vs B+, or vs B-)? Do either of them appear (via voltage checking, not resistance-checking to be non-variable with respect to either battery terminal?

I'm guessing that M3 is common (you would connect that to the negative of your motor) and M1 and M2 are meant to drive up to two different motors (connect to +). That said, the 28V application had only one motor so I have no idea why this would be designed this way.

Doesn't seem to be much information on the web about this part.
Did this work out OK?
I have gathered some switches from different power tools, but none of them seem to work.
I also saw you had trouble with the Ryobi switch, so I'm thinking that's not an option either.

Do you get the brake to function properly?
Shorts out between the output terminals M2/M3 when throttle is let off?
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