Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Need new batteries? Going from 12V to 18V or 6V to 12V? Wiring Questions?
#149292
I was stoked to get my daughter a Pink Barbie Corvette Power Wheels for $30 at a thrift shop. About $20 more to fix the wiring etc. problems and she was ready to ride. Problem was it was SUPER SLOW!
I just finished upgrading to 24V motors and have 2 12V/9.4A batteries to run em. I also upgraded to a variable speed 24V trigger switch for her throttle (and maybe that’s where I went wrong but not totally sure).
I picked up a power wheels battery connection that has a 30A fuse and they keep popping the second the connections makes contact.

Additional Wiring Info:
Battery wiring is all 12g. Switch wires are 16g. Motor wires are 18g or 16g. Original 12V motors had 12g wires for everything. I’m not sure how a 24V motor gets away with 18 or 16 but the wires were mfg. with the motor. My 1st thought was maybe the resistance from the size change was too much and that’s why it’s blowing, but again, they came that way. So I just don’t know.
The 12V batteries were reading 13.4V. Not sure if that played a factor.
I’m also super novice when it comes to wiring so the chance I made a dumb mistake is high.
I’d really appreciate any help I can get.
Thanks.
#149295
Check your battery connections. Make sure they are wired in series correctly. Also try to use just one battery and that will tell you if it's the wiring between the batteries or a mis-wire somewhere else. If the fuse still blows with one battery disconnect the pedal switch and troubleshoot from there.
#149300
Check the gas pedal connection. If you wire it backward then the default state is to short the battery (+) that comes in, to the orange (brake) wire which is connected to ground. It will blow the fuse immediately.

You mentioned a variable/drill switch though, so I don't know how much customization you have there.
#149302
I wired the wrong side of the switch.
There’s more wires than necessary (obviously the switch isn’t meant for this project)... so I’ve got it wired correctly now except for 1) one wheel starts to spin the moment the battery is connected; no “neutral”... 2) when the pedal is pushed in, nothing happens, no additional RPMs from the motor and 3) the 1 wheel that spins does so very slowly. The other motor seems like it wants to spin but seems locked up. The gear boxes are both in great condition.
1 problem gets fixed, another problem presents itself.
#149303
There are stock wiring schematics in the FAQ's section. That would be a good place to go from here. I would suggest staying with one battery until you find the problem. The smaller the circuit, the easier it is to troubleshoot.
#149321
Sounds like you have your wiring completely backwards lol but it’s a learning curve.

Grab the factory diagram for reference. Series connection should be fused between where the batteries are connected together. Black - fuse (30amp) - Red. Use the ground off one battery and positive off the other for your power source. From the battery it should run up to the pedal then out to the motors ( I know there is a gear shifter there that affects the polarity of the motors. ) Which is most likely wired between the pedal and the batteries. Gas pedal is just the on/switch for the motors regardless if it’s fixed or variable speed.

I’m new to the power wheels but this is also a basic wiring circuit. Use the factory one as reference and build off that.
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