- Mon Dec 30, 2013 6:37 pm
Thanks all. I like the motor and gear swap, but I'm holding off on that until the stockers burn out. On the rear wheels, I've kept mine in good shape by wrapping them with a strip of monster tape. When the tape wears out, I just replace it. On the fronts, I have tractor innertube around them, to get better grip and avoid the horrible understeer the car has, especially when the steering radius lockout is taken out. I shaved away some chassis/frame so the front wheels can have max turn, and then reinforced the steering rod with some mounts, to get rid of play. I also ran a second aluminum cross bar across the back of the "A" arms that the wheel mounts to, as the wheel toe-in was extreme without it. The steering is uber-responsive now. When indoors on the hardwood floors, I wrap tractor tire innertube around the rear wheels, too. Outside, I do not use the innertubes on the rears, because she likes to do donuts and powerslides/drifts. In addition, it may rip the gears right out if she had the rear grip and floored the pedal, especially because we live in a hilly terrain. With that rear grip, when she lets off the pedal, it almost throws her out of the car because of the braking. I wish I could taper that braking, but then I wonder about that one time she actually does need to stop on a dime.
As for the lights, I sourced from superbrightleds.com Great to work with; I've used them for big lighting projects in the past. For the license plate and front running light strip, I used 3mm cool white LED's. These all run 3v. I did not use a resistor to change voltage to 3.5V from 12V, as they get really hot, so I instead have 2 "D" batteries in a pack to provide a safe 3V for those LED's. The headlights are 12v large bolt LED's (perfect size for headlights), and on these, the resistor is built in, so they run on 12v. The brake, rear running, and reverse lights are all mini LED strips (all findable on superbrightleds.com), also running 12v.
To run 18V, I mounted the 6V battery on the black supports that run from the chassis to the rear bumper. This kept all front space free. The twin D battery pack is mounted up next to the 12V main battery under the hood. I also have an 8-pack of D batteries running 12V, ad it is mounted in the area under the seat. It fit perfectly. I had these battery holders lying around from other projects, b I believe superbrightleds have these as well.
The keyed "ignition" (next to the gear shift) runs from the 12v battery pack. From there, it goes to 3 separate relay's 85/86 pins. One relay for 3v, one for 12v, and one for 18v. Each battery or battery pack then runs separately to the 30 pin of those three individual relays- one for 3V, one for 12V, etc.. So, with the ignition keyed "off", nothing runs. Cool factor for kid because she carries her own keys and none of the neighbor kids can take off in her car when they're all parked in the cul-de-sac. Cool for daddy because I can lock her out easily by taking her keys, so I can control when and where she uses the car. When ignition turns on, the 3V running lights come on, and both the 12V and 18V systems turn on (headlights are a switch so they don't need to be run during the day). Most of the LED's do NOT use a second relay, because LED's draw so little that there is no reason to worry about fried wires or switches. I do have another relay for the horn since it does draw some current. I also am using 18V relays for reverse and brake lights. The 85/86 pins on the relay are 18V, but the 30 pin is 12V, sine the reverse and brake lights run 12V. The brakes are run off the foot pedal. I have an 18V SPDT relay wired in reverse, so when the relay loses power, the coils trip the incoming current on the 30 pin. On the reverse lights, I'm just wired in to the gear shift. LED's have to have correct polarity or they don't light up. So, I just reverse the wires to the LED's, so the polarity, (while reversed to the motors) is correct for the back up lights when reverse is chosen.
I'm in the middle of turning the rear fender intake vents to be operable. I cut out below the louvers, and attached 4" heating hose to the opening and ran it to holes cut in the side of the motor compartment. I cut an exhaust hole out and mounted a CPU fan to it, to keep the air moving through at all times. That doesn't show up on the pics below.
I'll post pics in a bit. Modding this thing is a blast... I gave up modding my real cars when the baby came along, so this is a great way to keep the "bug" and keep the family happy. Sorry for the long winded post...
Last edited by Bob Lahblah on Mon Dec 30, 2013 7:20 pm, edited 4 times in total.