Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
This is where you introduce yourself! Share your insight, areas of expertise, or just interests.
By Bob Lahblah
#114810
Hello all,

Just checking in as a new member. Got my daughter the 12V Powerwheels C7 Corvette. We've upgraded to 18V, installed a RYOBI power drill switch in to the factory pedal for variable speed control. In addition, I've taken all of the play out the steering and reinforced the steering and front suspension. I've added a keyed "ignition" on switch that turns on everything (kid loves putting the key in and turning it on). Also, I've put in switchable headlights and running lights, as well as functioning brake lights and reverse lights. I wrapped the front wheels with innertube rubber for traction. Next up is a horn and undercarriage LED's, and perhaps some Bluetooth speakers... Anyhow, have a great holiday everyone!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOGnJh4nK8w

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1cEDNI8dxw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV1st3IdFPc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3V6vPq_Rg8A
Last edited by Bob Lahblah on Mon Dec 30, 2013 6:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.
By JimmyPGE
#114833
Looks really good I got my son the same one for Xmas, I'm running 18v and 23T HPI GT 550 motors, the tires are already almost shot, nice work on the lights, what did you use for batteries and LED's?
By HedgeHog
#114893
Bob,

That looks really good...the brake lights turning on when the throttle is off is a nice touch! Do you mind sharing what LEDS are used? I recently have purchased a PW C7 as well.

Cheers!
By Bob Lahblah
#114907
Thanks all. I like the motor and gear swap, but I'm holding off on that until the stockers burn out. On the rear wheels, I've kept mine in good shape by wrapping them with a strip of monster tape. When the tape wears out, I just replace it. On the fronts, I have tractor innertube around them, to get better grip and avoid the horrible understeer the car has, especially when the steering radius lockout is taken out. I shaved away some chassis/frame so the front wheels can have max turn, and then reinforced the steering rod with some mounts, to get rid of play. I also ran a second aluminum cross bar across the back of the "A" arms that the wheel mounts to, as the wheel toe-in was extreme without it. The steering is uber-responsive now. When indoors on the hardwood floors, I wrap tractor tire innertube around the rear wheels, too. Outside, I do not use the innertubes on the rears, because she likes to do donuts and powerslides/drifts. In addition, it may rip the gears right out if she had the rear grip and floored the pedal, especially because we live in a hilly terrain. With that rear grip, when she lets off the pedal, it almost throws her out of the car because of the braking. I wish I could taper that braking, but then I wonder about that one time she actually does need to stop on a dime.

As for the lights, I sourced from superbrightleds.com Great to work with; I've used them for big lighting projects in the past. For the license plate and front running light strip, I used 3mm cool white LED's. These all run 3v. I did not use a resistor to change voltage to 3.5V from 12V, as they get really hot, so I instead have 2 "D" batteries in a pack to provide a safe 3V for those LED's. The headlights are 12v large bolt LED's (perfect size for headlights), and on these, the resistor is built in, so they run on 12v. The brake, rear running, and reverse lights are all mini LED strips (all findable on superbrightleds.com), also running 12v.

To run 18V, I mounted the 6V battery on the black supports that run from the chassis to the rear bumper. This kept all front space free. The twin D battery pack is mounted up next to the 12V main battery under the hood. I also have an 8-pack of D batteries running 12V, ad it is mounted in the area under the seat. It fit perfectly. I had these battery holders lying around from other projects, b I believe superbrightleds have these as well.

The keyed "ignition" (next to the gear shift) runs from the 12v battery pack. From there, it goes to 3 separate relay's 85/86 pins. One relay for 3v, one for 12v, and one for 18v. Each battery or battery pack then runs separately to the 30 pin of those three individual relays- one for 3V, one for 12V, etc.. So, with the ignition keyed "off", nothing runs. Cool factor for kid because she carries her own keys and none of the neighbor kids can take off in her car when they're all parked in the cul-de-sac. Cool for daddy because I can lock her out easily by taking her keys, so I can control when and where she uses the car. When ignition turns on, the 3V running lights come on, and both the 12V and 18V systems turn on (headlights are a switch so they don't need to be run during the day). Most of the LED's do NOT use a second relay, because LED's draw so little that there is no reason to worry about fried wires or switches. I do have another relay for the horn since it does draw some current. I also am using 18V relays for reverse and brake lights. The 85/86 pins on the relay are 18V, but the 30 pin is 12V, sine the reverse and brake lights run 12V. The brakes are run off the foot pedal. I have an 18V SPDT relay wired in reverse, so when the relay loses power, the coils trip the incoming current on the 30 pin. On the reverse lights, I'm just wired in to the gear shift. LED's have to have correct polarity or they don't light up. So, I just reverse the wires to the LED's, so the polarity, (while reversed to the motors) is correct for the back up lights when reverse is chosen.

I'm in the middle of turning the rear fender intake vents to be operable. I cut out below the louvers, and attached 4" heating hose to the opening and ran it to holes cut in the side of the motor compartment. I cut an exhaust hole out and mounted a CPU fan to it, to keep the air moving through at all times. That doesn't show up on the pics below.

I'll post pics in a bit. Modding this thing is a blast... I gave up modding my real cars when the baby came along, so this is a great way to keep the "bug" and keep the family happy. Sorry for the long winded post...
Last edited by Bob Lahblah on Mon Dec 30, 2013 7:20 pm, edited 4 times in total.
By Bob Lahblah
#114908
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Beefed up steering, There are two more aluminum steering rod mounts further up, inside the passenger compartment. No play!

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3v D battery pack is right next to 12v main battery (on bottom of pic). You can also see the 3 main relays mounted to the firewall.

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The 8-pack of D batteries supplying 12v for lights and horn. Horn relay mounted there too. Key switch has blue keys in it, directly next to the shifter lever.

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Just got her license plate. We're wrapping her exhausts with chrome stretch vinyl (we may do the whole body in "pink chrome"). Sourced here:
http://www.alsacorp.com/strechchrome/showcase.html We are making the faux cross-drilled rotors look semi real with brushed metal vinyl as well. Finally, anything black on the exterior we're wrapping with fake carbon fiber, including the interior headlight assemblies. The vinyl knock-off stuff is so realistic anymore.

I'm still adding one more pair of reverse lights to help with the symmetry. Not needed for light, but it may make the back end look more like it's supposed to be that way. Right now, having the outside reverse lights being just a decal looks weird to me.
Last edited by Bob Lahblah on Mon Dec 30, 2013 7:14 pm, edited 11 times in total.
By HedgeHog
#114929
Thx for the details and pix! That's awesome...so the back lights are just light bars (or light modules per that site you provided)? And what did you use for the vertical front light strip? I was going to do individual LEDs.

Thanks again in advance.

-H
Last edited by HedgeHog on Tue Dec 31, 2013 1:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
By Bob Lahblah
#114930
Yes the light "strip" within the headlights are individual 3mm LED's. I drilled out every little opening and placed an LED in each. I think there were five per side.
On the rear, they are "light bars", but small. Here are links:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/through-hole/white-3mm-led-30-degree-viewing-angle-8000-mcd/303/1235/

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-light-modules/am-series-miniature-rectangle-accent-light-black/25/
By ratlsnaktj
#119209
I just got my daughter the same C7. I love what you've done with your daughter's. I was planning on adding headlights, tail lights but after seeing yours I'm thinking about adding the back up lights as well just because its an awesome touch.

I'm not as savvy with the relays and individual LEDs as you are but I'm a boat guy so I'm very comfortable with 12v and terminal blocks. I was think about using 5 separate 3mm prewired (12v) LED for the running lights on each side in and a bolt light for the primary headlamp. I had actually already gotten the exact taillights you used (almost like they were made for the C7 PW). I'm going to add a keyed on/off switch that will only be to turn on the running lights (front and back).

My questions are... Do you think the stock battery would be enough to power running lights front and back, headlights, horn and reverse lights? If not, would using a 12v NiMH battery pack work?

Do you see any issue in using the individual prewired 3mm LEDs wired in parallel on the front running lights? Would there be a head issue?

Would using a terminal block work out ok instead of the relays?

How did you do the horn? Were you able to build the switch into the steering wheel or have to settle for a regular push button somewhere else?
User avatar
By Robert
#145925
Bob, can you post pictures of the other aluminum steering rod mounts in the passenger compartment? It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Beefed up steering, There are two more aluminum steering rod mounts further up, inside the passenger compartment. No play!
User avatar
By Robert
#145926
Bob, can you also post a picture of the second aluminum cross bar? Thank you very much.

I also ran a second aluminum cross bar across the back of the "A" arms that the wheel mounts to, as the wheel toe-in was extreme without it.
Pines

$200 obo

Brushless on a budget

I would love to see some of your work.

That rim looks good. Any update on your project?

You might replacing the thermal cut out switch wit[…]

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