Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
This is where you introduce yourself! Share your insight, areas of expertise, or just interests.
User avatar
By supertaperking
#147127
Hi everyone. My buddy did a 24v conversion on his Mustang and my daughters eyes lit up. So I did the same with her barbie wrangler...... we'll that lasted about 30 minutes until the passenger motor actually broke on the inside of the casing! Smoky!!! But man did that thing move. So.... I did what any normal dad does! Gotta fix it! Searched for new motors etc and settled on the ml toys stage 4 setup, and of course the brake reducer transistor..... straight on the credit card. Lol. I'm waiting for it PATIENTLY in the mail. (Just ordered yesterday, I have the feeling they don't like to be bothered from the order received email. Ha, lol. Don't blame them)

I will update with a review when it comes in.... in the mean time I did the 24v conversion on the yamaha quad, it seems to take the extra power much better than the wrangler. Keep your fingers crossed for me on that one.

Thanks for this great forum. Feel free to reply or PM me at anytime

~Ray (supertaperking)
User avatar
By supertaperking
#147131
I simply took 2 12v 15ah batteries. Wired them in series and plugged them in. I'm going to try the brake reducer and the stage 4 kit before I do a full esc
When I emailed the ml toy guy he said that would be all I needed. I see you sell a 25 cent resistor. Is that the same thing I bought for 10$ from ml? Please say no. Ha. And is that turbo timer thing an esc? And do you have a 24v one or just 18v? He yoooo. Question guy over here.
User avatar
By CJB
#147139
The turbo timer is not an ESC. It works very differently and each has pros and cons. The Turbo timer is just that... a timer that engages turbo. It lets the car get rolling at 12v for a few seconds before closing a relay and allowing your extra voltage. This results in much less stress on the motors and gears. It works at 12+6 and 12+12 (I'm told but never tried 24v myself). It does not offer proportional throttle, but does cost much less and isn't complicated to install. It also has a few operating modes for flexibility and the ability to kill your accessories after 5 minutes of no activity, saving your batteries. A great cost-effective alternative to an ESC.

An ESC is a MOSFET based controller working on the basis of pulse width modulation. It can provide smooth easy acceleration and depending on the model can handle a lot of power. One of the cons of an ESC is if it fails, it usually fails closed, meaning it's wide open throttle with no way to stop it. This is the reason I do not use them. That and the price point. If the turbo timer were to fail (yet to hear of one) while driving, you'd simply be driving at 12v and as long as nothing else in the vehicle failed too, you'd still have full function of a stock ride.

No, the diode on my page is not the same thing as ML's brake reduction module.
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