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User avatar
By Racer X
#12112
Of all the battery operated ride-on’s out there I love the Mustang most when it comes to a Project Build. First it is just a very visual appealing platform right out of the box. You do not have to touch anything and you will still have one of the hottest rides on the block, but as a builder you are always looking for a way to “plus it” and the Power Wheels Mustang makes it pretty easy to do just that.

There are a lot of “original built-in prefab spots” that allow you to easily bolt on new features, plus there is also plenty of open space to use when a custom mod is what your project really needs. So yes, I have a clear bias, but if you are considering a major rebuild project I strongly urge you to consider a Mustang. With that said let me introduce you to


“H O N E Y - B E E ”

01HoneyBee.jpg
Attachments
02HoneyBee.jpg
03HoneyBee.jpg
04HoneyBee.jpg
05HoneyBee.jpg
07HoneyBee.jpg
User avatar
By Racer X
#12114
BACK STORY
For what ever reason my wife always calls my grandson’s her little Honey Bee’s (I stopped trying to understand the things my wife says or does a long time ago). So when my color choice came down to a Yellow/Black or Dk Blue/Lt Blue Mustang I decided to get a few brownie points from my wife and go with a Yellow and Black car, code name “Honey Bee” (my wife loved the License Plate when I showed it to her and from that point on she was totally on board with the build).



F E A T U R E S :
1. Aux battery for accessories
2. Cooling Fans
3. Working DVD Player, USB, SD card and Audio in jack
4. A pair of 3-way 5 inch speakers
5. Passive Power Amp for Sub-Woofer
6. 5 inch Sub-Woofer
7. Headlights, Fog Lights and Rear Lights and running lights on the side skirts
8. Working Brake Lights (CJB timer effect)
9. 12 volts with a 6volt, 5 second NOS button (thanks again CJB for the timer)

AUX BATTERY
On the Eleanor Build (see the link in my signature) I ran an 18 volt system, but used the battery power to run everything. I have since learned that when my grandkids run the DVD player (yes, DVD player,… but you are getting ahead of the review) all the time and tend to drain the batteries rather quickly (LED’s are not a problem, but a radio is very hard on the batteries).

On this next build I did not want to get into those problems so I decided to give the accessories it’s on juice. To accommodate all of the batteries I decided to move the Aux battery to the back end of the car (I got the idea from one of TurboKev’s early builds).
30AuxBattery.jpg


Because the battery would become inaccessible once the seats were added I wanted to be able to charge it with out pulling out a screw driver. So I set up charging lugs under the hood which connects via a toggle from the battery to the charging lugs (again, stolen from TurboKev).
15ChargeLug.jpg
Last edited by Racer X on Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:56 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12116
COOLING FANS
You may have caught a glimpse of the cooling fans in the picture of the Aux Battery.
30AuxBattery.jpg


A couple of comments about the fans.
- I don’t need them in this build. The car is still a basic 12volt system, with a restricted use NOS system (you are trying to peak ahead again,…. I will get to the NOS [smile]), so the car should not be in any danger of running hot. The main reason I added it was in case I bumped it up to an 18volt system later, I would not have to do any major surgery on the car.
- I should have put the fans up higher. It is not a problem for us because it will be driven mostly on Concrete, but for those people who do gravel driveways or are more grass riders, your fans may end up ingesting a lot more than air if they are that close to the ground (just something to think about).
- I did add fan guards on both fans to try to keep large objects from ever getting sucked into the blades, including small fingers.
- The fan runs by a switch located in the tail section. It was put there on purpose to keep the kids from turning it on (again, not needed right now and they may leave it on for extended periods while the car is in use).
User avatar
By Racer X
#12117
RADIO

* NOTE: there is a little information about the radio install in the Eleanor Thread

The radio I used here is the same one I used on Eleanor (viewtopic.php?f=19&t=218) except it was $10 cheaper.

The radio was being discontinued by Wal-Mart during Christmas. I got the last one in the store and had them do a store search to see if any other Wal-Mart had another one in stock (I was trying to get three). No Luck.

However, in late January I was at a Wal-Mart and saw one in a beat up box sitting on the shelf. It was a return-to-stock item. After about 10 minutes of haggling with the Manager I got her to come down $10 because it was a returned item. My guess is that they could not get the DVD player to work (I struggled with it at first as well until I stopped and figured out that I needed to hook up a wire to the parking brake (ground wire for my Power wheel) and then the DVD player came to life. It is a safety feature so you can not watch DVD’s while you drive. FYI – I still cannot get MP4 files to play (even though they are suppose to be able too) from the SD card, but MP3 files play without any problems.

3 - W A Y S P E A K E R S
The speakers are not as nice as the ones in Eleanor, but they are also no where near the same size (the Eleanor speakers are massive 6x9’s and they barley fit the opening --- a real pain to install). All-in-all I do get very high quality sound and an install that came together without a hitch. Trust me, stay under 6 inches in regards to your speaker selection and you will have a relatively pain free install.

A M P (Installed upside down based on space)

The KICKER Sub-Woofer was only $10.00 so I figured I would give it a try and see if I liked it or not. As of this writing I have only tested it to ensure that it was installed correctly and working. I have not sat down and listened to it to properly evaluate what I think of the unit.
Last edited by Racer X on Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:49 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12118
S U B - W O O F E R
I went with a 5 inch Sub-Woofer because I was planning on mounting it to the back of the seats, but I woundup putting something else in that spot and therefore needed to find a new home for the Sub-Woofer. I ended up putting it on rear deck lid underneath the air spoiler. Once the install was complete I actually ended up liking that spot better than the original location.

What helps make it look like it was planned to go there is the color scheme. The black from the speaker accents the Yellow that it is mounted too and I believe the black from the spoiler gives it a custom finished look, but you be the judge (ignore that cylinder shaped thing in the picture for now).

60SubWoofer.jpg

61SubWoofer.jpg
Last edited by Racer X on Sat Mar 12, 2011 5:23 am, edited 3 times in total.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12121
LIGHTS

FRONT
The front Nose clip is from a newer Mustang, and I love the look of it. For the White lights I added one OZIUM Super Flux LED and two regular 5mm dome LED’s per side. For the Fog lights I put in 2 Yellow Super Flux per side. They really light up the road

13Lights.jpg

08Lights.jpg

09Lights.jpg



SIDE
The Side Skirt lights are a Yellow Strip LED from Hobby King. The difference in these and the ones I typically use from AutoZone (other than the big price difference) is that AutoZone’s comes with a polyurethane protective cover. So I really should reverse the application and use these for the rear lights (because they have a protective lens) and the AutoZone on the side skirts (because they are exposed to the elements. I am giving these a try to see how they hold up. I will get back to the group in the fall with my findings (smile).

10Lights.jpg

11Lights.jpg

12Lights.jpg


REAR
In the back I went with the tried and true AutoZone Flexi-Strip LED’s.
14Lights.jpg
User avatar
By Racer X
#12122
B R A K I N G (CJB Timer)
One of the big new add on’s in this build were the brake lights. They are also AutoZone Flexi-Strip. I used the white (so the rear lights are red with the lower braking lights being white). The lights come on for just over 1 second after the accelerator is released. This feature is the handy work of CJB. It works like a charm and I could not be happier with the results (sorry, no pictures but trust me, it works).
Last edited by Racer X on Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12126
DASHBOARD LIGHTS AND SOUNDS
My grandson’s really like the Engine Sounds and flashing LED’s from an OEM Mustang, The problem is that if you add a “real” radio you lose the factory stock radio which is the unit that produces the engine sound and also fires the LED lights. On my Eleanor build I figured out a way to add a real radio, but keep my engine sounds and lights, but I did not go into much detail about it. I will try to give you an up close view of what I did (very simple solution so you may want to think about adding it if you are considering adding a radio during your build).

I briefly talked about getting the Speedo/Tach working in the Eleanor build, but I will try to go into a little more Detail about it this time. How did I get the Dash lights and sounds to work without the original radio?

I lined up the exisiting mounting hole from the radio with the support strut on the dash and drilled a screw whole and then just put the screw back in to attach it. Make sure you have the speaker side facing the interior of the car. It is kind of hard to see but I took pictures of the dash with the radio attached (I know it is kind of hard to see but look for the screw against the black background).

20Sound.jpg

21Sound.jpg

22Sound.jpg

23Sound.jpg
User avatar
By Racer X
#12130
N O S - S Y S T E M
For those of you who have followed any of the NOS Threads you know this feature is not new, but I think CJB elevated the conversation to the next level.

The CJB NOS Timer gives the user a 5 second burst of speed and then the system locks the user out for 15 seconds (as if the system was recharging). Lighted LED’s tell you when the system is On, Engaged, or being recharged and therefore not available for use (all lights off). So you ask why anyone would want to add this to their system. For those of you running at 18v with a 6v NOS I would say it is a must to keep your young rider from just holding the button down and tearing up the gear box, frying the wiring or burning up the motor (all very possible when running on such a high voltage – with standard equipment – for sustained lengths of time). Because my system is a 12v with 6v NOS the delay is not necessary, but this car is for a 1 year old (who can’t drive anything yet) so the power is more than enough for now and it will help train him on its proper use as he steps up into something faster. I also like the more accurate simulation of a NOS system when using the Timer. CJB has taken all of the guess work out so that even someone without formal electronic experience (like me) can make all of the right connections the very first time. At the suggestion of Drew I added a Lock out switch under the hood so I can turn the NOS system off completely for younger drivers.

39Nos.jpg


To help finish off the NOS system I added a Non-Funtional NOS tank. It looks good enough to freak my wife out. She very seriously asked me "is that what I think it is". I explained that it is something I just made from spare parts to give the car a more realistic look. This is the comestic piece I was hinting at in the NOS Timer thread CJB. So what do you think (smile,... I really like how it turned out).

40NOS.jpg

41Nos.jpg

42Nos.jpg


It really is a very easy and straightforward install, however right now I have a "no joy" status with the Timer -- I am circling back to CJB right now and hope to have the problem resolve soon -- I will post more pictures then).
Attachments
60SubWoofer.jpg
User avatar
By Racer X
#12131
I don't know if anyone caught it or not, but I also painted the sideveiw mirrors. In another thread someone mentioned using a truck sideview mirror repair kit (available at Wal-mart, or so I am told) in order to dress up the mirrors and i may look into that.


So that’s about it. I am really satisfied with how it turned out. I am not sure I will be doing any other builds (I have enough ride on’s to cover all my grandkids, their friends and a few of the neighborhood kids). I do not want to touch my gaucho’s (I may do an inline battery connection to bump one to 18v, but that is about it) and I am going to scale back on everything else (anyone need a Gator, Safety First Corvette or ATV)?

Below are some links for the sources I used in case anyone needs them

L E G E N D:

TIMER RELAYS
CJB – Modified Power Wheels


SIDE SKIT LIGHTS
SKU Description Qty STATUS
TR-Strip-RE Turnigy High Density R/C LED Flexible Strip-
6 Reserved
TR-Strip-YE High Density R/C LED Flexible Strip-Yellow (
2 Reserved

Red: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... oduct=8941
Yellow: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... oduct=8943



SUB-WOOFER and AMP
PARTS EXPRESS
Item Qty. Price Total
Tymphany TPY04W16S0086 5" Woofer 16 Ohm
Part Number: 299-261 1 $26.80 $26.80
Kicker 100W Car Audio Stereo Input Sub Amp with Housing
Part Number: 269-175 1 $9.88 $9.88

FedEx Home Delivery $10.42
Order Total: $47.10





Tymphany Speaker: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowde ... er=299-261

Kicker: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowde ... er=269-175


AutoZone
Flexi LED lights


DVD Player (discontinued) Wal-Mart
Missing Power Wheels Mustang Parts (Wanted section Modified Power Wheels, with Str8 [who I never see on the forum now] and Hootie (http://www.MLTOYZ.com) supplying almost everything Power Wheel related that I needed for the build
Last edited by Racer X on Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12134
hotrodtodd wrote:Nice detailed project! I like the paint combo too ;)



Thanks HotRodTodd,

I am very satisfied with this one. I learned a lot on my first full rebuild (Eleanor) that I was able to tie into this project. I also was not as worried about screwing up this time around (I was second guessing myself through the entire project on Eleanor).

The one thing I liked about Eleanor is how much other adults would get into it (my wife who was very much against the entire "Power Wheels Thing" also enjoyed talking about it to her friends when they would come over). On Eleanor I just completed the project (I almost felt lucky to have everything work when I was done). On this one I knew where I was going with everything and what I wanted to end up with. Just a totally different approach toward the build and I think that helped a lot with the results. I know I have a long way to go to catch some of the really good builders on this forum, but the cool thing about being part of this forum is how much everyone is willing to share with the community, which makes it far eaiser for you to progress as an individual builder.


Racer X
User avatar
By Racer X
#12136
Hey CJB,

(Big Smile), I am glad you liked what I did with the NOS tank.

I have not read your post about the NOS yet, but I am concerned I may have fired it. I realized I had the the 87a and 30 Grounds switched (one should be coming out and the other going in. I do not know enough about what that mistake may have caused me. I am sure you sent it to me in good working order so I may just need to order another one.

Racer X
User avatar
By Racer X
#12141
Thanks Spyder,

This is the car I was working on when you posted your question about putting lights on a new style Mustang (by the way, this is an older mustang that just has the new nose added to it). I picked up the hood too, but decided to stay with the original hood instead. Again, very happy with the decision.

Racer X
By spyder384
#12149
Racer X wrote:Thanks Spyder,

This is the car I was working on when you posted your question about putting lights on a new style Mustang (by the way, this is an older mustang that just has the new nose added to it). I picked up the hood too, but decided to stay with the original hood instead. Again, very happy with the decision.

Racer X


I see that. It turned out great! I don't see any reason to go with the newer hood. The cowl is barely noticeable in my opinion. You are inspiring me to put an audio system in my mustang... and I thought that I was almost done, haha.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12154
The audio system was a no brainer for me. Once you install your first one you will never go back to not having one. The decision was made easier because i have a couple of spare 12v Power Wheel battery's so using one as a spare made sense.

Also this car is really for my youngest grandson (1 year old) and his favorite feature in Eleanor is the DVD player. I really had to install one in his car otherwise he would have just ignored it (smile). Everything does add up quickly though. I would strongly suggest looking on Craigslist for a used one. I found one for $15 and another for $10. Because I ened up using the DVD model from Wal-mart they are both still sitting on a shelf, but had I used them that would have really brought the cost down to something reasonably. Speakers are a toss up. My understanding is that most places like Best Buy puts car audio equipment on sale around March. A low end discounted/Box Open pair would be perfect and for the right price. The big thing is to keep the speakers small. Trying to make a 6x9 pair fit is a real drag (although it can be done -- use the link in my signature to go to my Eleanor build to get a better idea of what all could be involved in installing a bigger pair). Also the Eleanor thread will give you a good look at how to get a radio to fit without much of a challenge.

Racer X
Last edited by Racer X on Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12198
Hey KStrom21,

I just made the label in Microsoft word using shapes and letter boxes (the different layers of colors are same Oval shape filled with one collor and then a slightly smaller Oval is placed on top --- that gives the edging. The what opening with text is just another shape with a white background and then I used a letter box to insert text -- not hard to do).

Once you have your label just print it however you would print anyother label. I take all of my stuff to Office max and have them print it on a glossy photo stock and then use a spray adhesive on the back to get it to stick to the car. the entire process is very straight forward.

The rest of the NOS bottle was simple too. The black rings are just wide and thick Tie wraps (they were kind of expensive [about a buck each], but gave me the exact look I was going for), the polished aluminum container is a coffee thermost from Wal-mart and the fittings are actual plumbing supply fittings, plus about 4 inches of hose. The king that is typically used on an air gun. I think it is those finishing parts that make it look real when you see it in person. The plumbing hardware cost a couple of dollars for all the parts, but the air hose was the killer. I only used a couple of inches but I had to purchase a 10 foot hose (anyone thinking about making one give me a yell and I will sell you a 6 inch length of hose for $0.60 plus shipping -- 6 inches will be way more than you will need).

Like I said in an earlier post, the funny part was seening the horror on my wifes face when she saw it. You could tell she thought I was building some incredible fast death trap for the kids. When I told her it would only be as fast as Eleanor in short burst, she said it sure looks like it would be faster. Mission accomplished. I wanted it to look like it would flat out haul "A--" even when it was just sitting still.

Racer X
User avatar
By drew510
#12201
Looks awesome!! I am starting to gather materials for my Mustang build. Judging on how my kids drive, I am going to stay with white. I think I have convinced myself to give it a coat of paint to freshen it up. No stereo for this one but the mechanicals will be similar (12V w/6V boost a la CJB). The rest of the details will come in the build thread. Do you have any video of the brake lights in action? It is hard to see in the pics. I am waivering on putting CJB's brake timer in because I want the ability to have them constantly on as well. I could use two separate banks of LEDs, but I would be interested in seeing how your application works. Nice job Racer X!
User avatar
By Racer X
#12213
I will look to get a video up of both Timers in action once I get the NOS timer up and running (I fried it,...). The brake lights work exactly as describe. Take your foot off the accelerator and the Brake lights will come on for a little over a second. I do not have any pictures posted with them on, but I can get my wife to hit the gas and release it while i take the picture. I will take one shot with the regular lights off and one with them on. We are helping a friend move tonight so I probably won't get to it until tomorrow evening.

Racer X
Last edited by Racer X on Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By Kstorm21
#12220
Racer X wrote:Hey KStrom21,

I just made the label in Microsoft word using shapes and letter boxes (the different layers of colors are same Oval shape filled with one collor and then a slightly smaller Oval is placed on top --- that gives the edging. The what opening with text is just another shape with a white background and then I used a letter box to insert text -- not hard to do).

Once you have your label just print it however you would print anyother label. I take all of my stuff to Office max and have them print it on a glossy photo stock and then use a spray adhesive on the back to get it to stick to the car. the entire process is very straight forward.

Racer X


Did you make both of them? The one by the positive charger bolt? I'll have to try it out if I ever get one. Thanks for the info.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12221
The one by the postive charge bolt is one I found online. I collected a few others that I did not use. If you send me a PM with your email address I will send you everything I have for a Mustang and the extra ones I made for the NOS system, the charge bolts, toggle switch and the ones I found online.

All of the sizing should fit as is, but you can change the words in any of the ones I created. There is a link to create licenses plates by state but you will need to resize it to fit. You can make it match the size I have in my file and you should be in good shape. If you need that link then let me know.

Racer X
Last edited by Racer X on Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By CJB
#12301
One more test we'll need to do on the brake light timer is when the vehicle is running @ 18V. As long as the timer is hooked to a 12v tap, it shouldn't be a problem, but I haven't tested for the -18v trigger.

I'm going to get building your new NOS timer at some point this week. I found a voltage regulator I wanna throw in there for you to guinea pig it for me. :lol: If this regulator works, it would really be beneficial in all my 555 timer designs that are to be used on 18v systems.

Also, I'd like copies of your sticker files. ;)
User avatar
By Racer X
#12314
CJB wrote:One more test we'll need to do on the brake light timer is when the vehicle is running @ 18V. As long as the timer is hooked to a 12v tap, it shouldn't be a problem, but I haven't tested for the -18v trigger.

I'm going to get building your new NOS timer at some point this week. I found a voltage regulator I wanna throw in there for you to guinea pig it for me. :lol: If this regulator works, it would really be beneficial in all my 555 timer designs that are to be used on 18v systems.

Also, I'd like copies of your sticker files. ;)



Do you want me to run it at 18v and give the brakes a try?

I can't right now because it would rquire pulling a lot of stuff apart in order to get the 18 volts to flow straight through (right now it runs through the timer which is not working). I will see what it would take to to bypass everything with two seperate battery's and hook those up together for a "all-the time" 18v volts and then tap the brakes to see what happens (if I smell smoke is that a bad thing -- [smile])?

Also,... I sent out Decal files to everyone that asked. If you did not get yours let me know (should have been three seperate emails.

Racer X
User avatar
By CJB
#12315
Racer X wrote:Do you want me to run it at 18v and give the brakes a try?

I can't right now because it would rquire pulling a lot of stuff apart in order to get the 18 volts to flow straight through (right now it runs through the timer which is not working). I will see what it would take to to bypass everything with two seperate battery's and hook those up together for a "all-the time" 18v volts and then tap the brakes to see what happens (if I smell smoke is that a bad thing -- [smile])?

Also,... I sent out Decal files to everyone that asked. If you did not get yours let me know (should have been three seperate emails.

Racer X


If you just supply a +12 to the 'output' of the turbo timer, you'll have NOS engaged. Use a jumper or alligator clip test wire or something. You can jump it right from the +12 timer input using a scrap piece of wire actually.

Go ahead and hit the brakes a few times at 18v. I'm interested in seeing what happens.

Thanks for the files! Very cool.
Last edited by CJB on Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By CJB
#12319
CJB wrote:
Racer X wrote:Do you want me to run it at 18v and give the brakes a try?

I can't right now because it would rquire pulling a lot of stuff apart in order to get the 18 volts to flow straight through (right now it runs through the timer which is not working). I will see what it would take to to bypass everything with two seperate battery's and hook those up together for a "all-the time" 18v volts and then tap the brakes to see what happens (if I smell smoke is that a bad thing -- [smile])?

Also,... I sent out Decal files to everyone that asked. If you did not get yours let me know (should have been three seperate emails.

Racer X


If you just supply a +12 to the 'output' of the turbo timer, you'll have NOS engaged. Use a jumper or alligator clip test wire or something. You can jump it right from the +12 timer input using a scrap piece of wire actually.

Go ahead and hit the brakes a few times at 18v. I'm interested in seeing what happens.

Thanks for the files! Very cool.



Come to think of it, if one were to install a switch (momentary or toggle) across the +12 input and the 'OUT', you could completely bypass the timer if desired.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12320
CJB,

I understand what you are saying about jumping the Timer (with you there), but I thought the Negative was coming out of the timer,..... crap,.. that's right, the relay is sending the negative out (that is what I had crossed before). I will have to take a look at the diagram, but I get what you are saying in theory.

I will figure out something (I know in the end I just want to go from 12 negative to 6 postive with the 6 neg and the 12 pos going to the car). I can make that happen one way or the other.

Not that I am a chicken, but as I have stated many times in the past I am a novice when it comes to electricity. What are the expected results (back to the whole "smoke" thing [smile])?

Racer X
User avatar
By CJB
#12321
Racer X wrote:CJB,

I understand what you are saying about jumping the Timer (with you there), but I thought the Negative was coming out of the timer,..... crap,.. that's right, the relay is sending the negative out (that is what I had crossed before). I will have to take a look at the diagram, but I get what you are saying in theory.

I will figure out something (I know in the end I just want to go from 12 negative to 6 postive with the 6 neg and the 12 pos going to the car). I can make that happen one way or the other.

Not that I am a chicken, but as I have stated many times in the past I am a novice when it comes to electricity. What are the expected results (back to the whole "smoke" thing [smile])?

Racer X


If your NOS relay is wired properly, jumping the +12 input to the 'out' of the timer will engage your relay. (The 'OUT' is +12 when the timer is engaged. See diagram) On a side note, your 'ENGAGED' led should illuminate as well.

What to expect at 18v from the brake timer?? Proper function. I hope. Chances of smoke and fireworks are slim to none. ;)
User avatar
By Racer X
#12331
Hmmm,..... again, I think I see where you are going, Instead of bypassing everything just jump the timer and go into the relay (that will also let me know if I caused a problem with the relay. I do not understand how that will make the led light unless it is from a backfeed of the relay (because I am bypassing the Timer how would it get power to light either LED and less it was getting a flow of current back from the relay?

Like I said I have all day to wrap my head around it, but I should be ok. Also, I have several other relays (I always purchase spares when I am dealing with the unknown. So if jumping does not work I will try switching out the relay. If the system works then I will go back to the current NOS timer and give it one more try.

Racer X
User avatar
By DennisDaMenace
#12409
Racer X,

Great build (including Eleanor)! How are you powering your soundbox (aka factory radio)? Would it be possible to use your 6 volt NOS battery to power the soundbox since it only needs 4 volts (3 X 1.5 volts AA batteries)? I was thinking of doing this on a future project.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12413
I run it on the original AAA battery's. I guess I could run it from the 6 volt battery (CJB,..... help???). If you read CJB's NOS thread you will see that I state constistantly that I do not know electronic's. I am just very good at following directions (long time married guy [smile]), so I would be the wrong person to seek confirmation on something like that. But I do know that we have about 4 members who I think have strong skills in that area so if you throw it out there as a general question you would probably get a solid answer. I am not sure I want to pull either car back apart, but i do agree that tapping into one of the main battery's would be ver convenient. I never even thought of exploring it because the draw is very light (I think) and because it is only powering the instrument panel LED's and sound it does not get used often. I think I will be able to get to the sound box without to much effort so I did not see it as a problem to just leave it as is.

With all that said,.... I am always looking to "Plus IT" so if someone chimes in that it will work and explain what needs to be done then I would probably give it a try when I put the new NOS timer in.

Racer X
User avatar
By dasilva100
#12418
I love your honey bee mustang... nice job... I'm feeling inspired to some mods on mine. Where did you buy the leds?
BTW Thanks again for the stickers pics.
Last edited by dasilva100 on Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By CJB
#12419
You can run it off the 6v OR the 12V with THIS guy. It'll supply a constant 4.5VDC provided your radio doesn't pull more than 150mA.

You could also use your 12v accessory battery with the CJB 12v-6v Converter™ and knock the voltage down a bit with some diodes. Not sure how over-volted the radio can be.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12460
dasilva100 wrote:I love your honey bee mustang... nice job... I'm feeling inspired to some mods on mine. Where did you buy the leds?
BTW Thanks again for the stickers pics.



Thanks for the kind words and youare very welcome for the Sticker images. As far as the LED's I have gotten them from several sources, but for the most part.

The front lights are:
Oznium Pre-Wired Super Flux in White and Yellow: http://www.oznium.com/prewired-superflux
They are not cheap, but I like using them because one puts out about as much light as three or four regular LED's so I typically can get away with just putting in one (more of a space issue than anything else).

The Side under glow are:
Hobby King LED Strips in Yellow: See link in an earlier post on this thread
This is the first time I have every used them. I made the purchase because they are very cheap compared to the strip lights I had been purchasing. They seem to be working well, but until I use them outside in everyday conditions I will hold off on recommending them.

The rear lights are:
Autozone Flexi Strip: I can not find a link. I do not order these online I just head over to my local store.
I LOVE these lights, but they are very expensive (in my opinion). One of there longest strips ($20.00) will provide enough LED's to do the back tail lights for two Mustangs. They have a protective coating, work like a champ, but again I hate the price.

You can check with CJB and see if he still has any LED's left. He was selling them for .02 each. You can not beat that price anywhere. You would need to spend the time wiring them individually, but you can screw up a lot of LED's at that price and still get the job done far cheaper than any of the other solutions.
User avatar
By Racer X
#12461
CJB wrote:You can run it off the 6v OR the 12V with THIS guy. It'll supply a constant 4.5VDC provided your radio doesn't pull more than 150mA.

You could also use your 12v accessory battery with the CJB 12v-6v Converter™ and knock the voltage down a bit with some diodes. Not sure how over-volted the radio can be.



When we settle up for the next shipment include one in my box ($15 correct?). I still do not think I will use it on this build, but I want to have it available for a future build.

Racer X

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