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User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13017
Moving this over from the other forum because I finally got back to work on it today. Original thread @http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/foru ... C_ID=20516


User avatar
By monkeydad
#13096
LOVE that paint color. Just bought a Taurus in that same color actually.

Great mods so far.

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Last edited by monkeydad on Tue Mar 15, 2011 9:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13124
Thanks Monkeydad. It feels good to be back in the shop. I had yesterday and today off work so I finally have free time and the weather is warming up just enough. Batteries are in the mail and I'm working on finishing up the paint and tweaking some minor details. I will post pics as soon as I can.
Last edited by DefensiveWound on Tue Mar 15, 2011 11:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13203
hotwheel80 wrote:Bout time!!!! Lol Glad to see ya back at it!
:lol: :oops: Good to be back at it!

I want to put a keyed switch into this and I have never done one before. I'm looking at tncscooters.com and the keyed switches have 2, 3, 4 and 5 wire switch options; I should only need a two wire, correct?
Last edited by DefensiveWound on Tue Mar 15, 2011 6:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By CJB
#13206
DefensiveWound wrote:
hotwheel80 wrote:Bout time!!!! Lol Glad to see ya back at it!
:lol: :oops: Good to be back at it!

I want to put a keyed switch into this and I have never done one before. I'm looking at tncscooters.com and the keyed switches have 2, 3, 4 and 5 wire switch options; I should only need a two wire, correct?
Two is about all you need unless you want an 'accessories only' position.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13208
CJB wrote:
DefensiveWound wrote:
hotwheel80 wrote:Bout time!!!! Lol Glad to see ya back at it!
:lol: :oops: Good to be back at it!

I want to put a keyed switch into this and I have never done one before. I'm looking at tncscooters.com and the keyed switches have 2, 3, 4 and 5 wire switch options; I should only need a two wire, correct?
Two is about all you need unless you want an 'accessories only' position.
Gotcha, thanks.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13459
Progress so far-

Clear coated the body...

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But for some reason that I can not figure out, I have been having trouble with my trusted Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel. It does not matter how long I let my base coat dry, I still end up with wrinkling :evil: This has happened on four projects now, regardless of precautions taken, so I am officially done with the Rustoleum Clear :( Luckily, since it is a textured basecoat you can't tell that the base coat is wrinkled. The texture shows in the clear coat though. To remedy this, I continued to clear until I built up a thick enough coat to wet sand, wet sanded and used Valspar Clear Enamel for final coat... no problems!

Texture

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Wet sanding (half way through)

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Hood wet sanded

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Final Clear Coat (forgot to get a good pic of the body but you get the point on the hood) I put a thumb print in the hood on accident :x but a flat black stripe will cover it.

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This just shows the reflection in the clear.

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Rims redone with DupliColor Chrome (see first pic in original thread for original condition of rims)

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More paint. Those are brand new 21T G/B's!

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I decided to lower the spoiler. I cut the spoiler stands off and filled in the holes. I will drill new holes to re attach the spoiler. This lowered the spoiler by an inch+.

Plastic inserts

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Bondo started

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Next step is to wait for the clear coat to completely cure so that I can lay down the Roush graphics. If you tape too soon, you can really mess up your clear because it will still be soft. I'm going to give it a week to cure. Also need to freshen up the tires, get a Roush sticker set made, do all the wiring and re assemble. Batteries and some odds and ends parts should be here soon.

Jparthum or CJB- Do either of you want to help me with the wiring diagram?? I will make up a list of everything that will be included soon.
User avatar
By CJB
#13461
Very nice! I'm loving the paint more and more. Really looks sharp with the flat black interior parts.

I have no problem helping with the diagram, but J's might be easier to read. My diagrams are done in schematic form :ugeek: whereas J's are more graphical 8-) (and animated :ugeek: ) . :lol:

Doesn't matter to me either way.
User avatar
By Racer X
#13467
I had problems with the Clear Coat on my "Honey Bee" Mustang. I ended up sanding a couple of spots back down to the plastic, which of course was a real joy as I tried to build the paint back up in those spots. The hardest part is watching your beautiful paint job go to crap right in front of your eyes. I kept thinking about a thread I read where CJB said he was just going to pass on clear coats.

I am not sure what went wrong. I know it was not cold related (shhhh,... I painted in an empty apartment that we were going to put in new floors and repaint -- wife does not know). It also should not have been curing time (I waited two weeks before I started on anything and some parts had been done for over a month by time I put the first touch of clear on). It is the "unknown" that has me very nervous about using clear again. I will keep a close watch on what seems to be working for everyone else.

One thing I did do and really liked the "cosmetic" results was painting the body and following it immediately with the clear. Looks amazing!!! The only problem is that in spots where it chipped it took the clear and color both off right down to the plastic (URGHHHH!!!!!). If I was building a show car for a competition I would employ that method everytime, but for something functional that my grandkids will beat up, I won't go back to the continous process.

Racer X
Last edited by Racer X on Thu Mar 17, 2011 11:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By drew510
#13469
I had problems with the clear clouding up on the Jeep. I can't find the thread on the old site, but someone recommeded some brand of furniture polish sold at Ace Hardware. I picked some up and it helped a lot, but I don't think I'll be doing clear again any time soon.
User avatar
By CJB
#13473
Clear coats have always been more of a PIA then it's worth to me. If it doesn't wrinkle, it seems to dull even the nicest paint job. Also, it's easier to touch up battle wounds on the body when there's no clear on it anyway I think.

These are vehicles made to be used and abused IMO. I'll skip the clear and play catch with my daughter.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13481
A quick note on doing clear- I use FLAT base coat every time and use the clear to give it shine. This replicates real automotive paint. With automotive urethanes, the base coat is flat no matter what and its the clear that gives it gloss. When you put clear over a gloss finish it does not turn out good. The other great thing about flat paint is that when you lay it over a less than perfect substrate it does not catch reflection off of any edges (scratches, chips, whatever) so when you put the clear over it the only reflections you get are off the clear coat. If you were to use a gloss base coat over a less than perfect substrate then the gloss will catch the reflections of any edges under the clear coat and they will be ten times more visible. Another thing is that with gloss colors you get orange peel texture and flat paint does not seem to orange peel; it lays very flat, but this might also circle back to the fact that the flat does not catch the reflection of the texture. Does this make sense??

I've never had problems with clear until recently. Once I switched brands of paint I had no more issues. IMO, the end result is unmatched by any other method.
Last edited by DefensiveWound on Thu Mar 17, 2011 12:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13490
CJB wrote:Excellent points. Maybe I'll give 'er another shot with a flat base sometime. Makes sense when you explain it like that.
Hopefully it works out. I would suggest trying it on a smaller project like a ninja body or Harley, just so you can work out your process. I'm always willing to answer any questions regarding paint if need be.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13518
hypo21 wrote:I will be painting a Gaucho grande in the nect week or two, I will start a Project page and will most likley be needing some help.

BTW.. this thing just looks awesome.
Thank you. I will be more than happy to help.
User avatar
By Racer X
#13552
I painted my Eleanor Mustang with Automotive Flat base paints. They were way easier to work with. There was no color bleed in areas I taped off and the shine after the clear coat was amazing. The catch is that the paint cost a fortune. I could paint a car three times for what that paint job cost me. But so far it has held up really well. I will monitor how the Honey Bee handles the beating (I am sure it will not do as well based on some of the simple chips I have gotten already.

By the was Defensive Wound. I love the textured paint. I tracked HotWheels80 thread where he used your textured paint idea and was sold by it. If I do another full build I will consider giving it a try (I also still have not used bondo yet, but I am going to dive into that pool too).

Racer X
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13770
Batteries came in yesterday, just waiting on one more package of goodies. Here are some pics of recent progress, not much, but some.

I can see myself :D

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Counter sunk mounting hole for the spoiler.

Image

Got the grill badge done. It's now held on with 3M tape instead of being screwed in because I moved the grill forward.

Image
User avatar
By jparthum
#13787
WOW, DW... STUNNING! :o

To repeat CJB's sentiment - Great tips on flat paint under the clear coat! 8-)
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13792
jparthum wrote:WOW, DW... STUNNING! :o

To repeat CJB's sentiment - Great tips on flat paint under the clear coat! 8-)
Thanks. Are you interested in helping me with the wiring?
User avatar
By jparthum
#13795
DefensiveWound wrote: Thanks. Are you interested in helping me with the wiring?
Absolutely! 8-)


Whatcha you wanna do? Charging port, lights, controller, remote kill, remote control, garage door opener, satellite navigation, cameras, 7.1 theater system, WiFi hotspot, air conditioning? :P :P :P

Let's do it! :mrgreen:
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13798
jparthum wrote:
DefensiveWound wrote: Thanks. Are you interested in helping me with the wiring?
Absolutely! 8-)


Whatcha you wanna do? Charging port, lights, controller, remote kill, remote control, garage door opener, satellite navigation, cameras, 7.1 theater system, WiFi hotspot, air conditioning? :P :P :P

Let's do it! :mrgreen:
:lol: :lol: :lol:

So far, I have the headlights, angel eye lights, tail lights, interior EL wire light, the two switches in the dash (one for headlights and one for accent lights) a keyed switch, 3 pin scooter charging port, 30 amp breaker, the three switches under the hood to switch from charge to run (Turbokev style) and I think thats it. Let me know what else I need to get this done. This will be an 18 volt vehicle using three 6 volt batteries. Future possibility of a stereo install and under glow light.
Last edited by DefensiveWound on Sun Mar 20, 2011 2:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By jparthum
#13802
OK, that should be fairly simple. You'll basically just have three circuits - One 18V for drive-train, one 12V for all accessories, and one 6V for charging.

Just be sure your Charge/Run switches can handle the drive-train current - 12V @ 30A will put up to 540 Watts (DC) through them. :shock:

Do you plan on using terminal blocks to connect your 12V devices?
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13806
The charge switches came out of PW's shifters so they should be fine, right? And yes, terminal blocks. Are there any better options than terminal blocks?
User avatar
By jparthum
#13833
Yep, PW switches should be fine.

I'm not aware of any better options than terminal blocks, or terminal strips. The 'European' style terminal strips can be cut to size and can accept bare wires...
Image
By spyder384
#13845
DefensiveWound wrote:The charge switches came out of PW's shifters so they should be fine, right? And yes, terminal blocks. Are there any better options than terminal blocks?
Twist the bare wires together, and wrap them in electrical tape. LOL, just kidding. Sick looking mustang! The paint came out amazing!
User avatar
By drew510
#13854
jparthum wrote:Yep, PW switches should be fine.

I'm not aware of any better options than terminal blocks, or terminal strips. The 'European' style terminal strips can be cut to size and can accept bare wires...
Image
Ohhh! Where would one find those (in the US, of course ;) )
User avatar
By jparthum
#13863
drew510 wrote: Ohhh! Where would one find those (in the US, of course ;) )
Not up for a drive to Canada, eh? :lol:

I'm not a big fan of Radio Shack, but surprisingly :shock: they seem to have good pricing on these...

http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=c ... 0cf306c035


(Personally, I'd almost rather drive to Canada than go into a Mall :roll: ...and I'm almost in Mexico! :o )
User avatar
By jparthum
#13926
See if this looks like what you're after...
Image
Click to animate.
I left out the switches for specific 12V circuits (headlights, accent lights, etc.) since those are pretty straight-forward. Those would be placed after the terminal blocks. Since the key will only switch the accessories circuit, you won't need additional switches for any accessories that you want to remain on when the key is switched ON (running/safety lights, radio, etc.).
User avatar
By jparthum
#13961
drew510 wrote:Don't you need a relay for the key switch?
That's a good point - if the total 12V power draw exceeds the current rating for the key switch, then a relay would be needed.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13966
Not sure if this helps but this is the key switch that I have.
http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=101227

I also have this breaker; can it be used somewhere in the mix or would I need more than one??
http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=101262

Wiring/electrical is my least favorite part :oops:
User avatar
By jparthum
#13975
CJB wrote:With two relays, you could key off both the 12v accessories AND the 18v power with the one key.

Just sayin..
AND switch the batteries between series and parallel, with the addition of a 4-pin charging port. ;)
User avatar
By jparthum
#13977
DefensiveWound wrote:Not sure if this helps but this is the key switch that I have.
http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=101227
Hmm, no specs. :? Wires look pretty thin in the pic though. :(
I also have this breaker; can it be used somewhere in the mix or would I need more than one??
http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=101262
You could put the breaker on the first (left-most) battery, which, if thrown would open both the 12V and 18V circuits. I would still suggest having fuses (or breakers) on the other batteries too, just in case a wire comes loose :? , or a kid sticks an aluminum can or something in there :twisted: (direct short), and especially during initial testing :shock: , but you could increase the Amperage of those so the breaker would open first...?
Wiring/electrical is my least favorite part :oops:
:lol: That's my favorite part. :oops:
User avatar
By taz11
#13978
jparthum wrote:

Image

These are worth their weight in gold! (especially when you forget to add a wire :shock: ) Allelectronics.com has many different sizes.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13995
CJB wrote:With two relays, you could key off both the 12v accessories AND the 18v power with the one key.
That was the original plan. I really want the key to cut ALL power to the car so that I don't have to worry about my boy driving it when he is not supposed to.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#13999
Got the Roush graphics done on the body today. This is what I was going for.

Image

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Taped outline.

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Masked off and then painted.

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And Voila!!

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Image

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I scraped off the bleed thru that you can see in the numbers. This turned out better than expected. I was not sure I could get them to match this well.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#14009
drew510 wrote:Nice! Is that a flat black or gloss?
Thank you, I'm in love with it! It's flat black base with a flat clear.
Last edited by DefensiveWound on Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#14012
Hood done.

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And this is where the charging port will be! It's the charge port cover from the Honda Minimoto Bike. Waiting for the port before I go drillin holes.

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I think all that's really left to do is assemble it, wire it up and print up a few more stickers.
User avatar
By resqsonny81
#14035
Very, very sweet job. This is all done with spray paint?
User avatar
By monkeydad
#14039
Your graphics look like they are vinyl cut by a computer....amazing paint work!

Love the colors and that charging port is genius.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#14041
resqsonny81 wrote:Very, very sweet job. This is all done with spray paint?
Ye sir! And Thank you for the compliment :)
Last edited by DefensiveWound on Tue Mar 22, 2011 8:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#14043
monkeydad wrote:Your graphics look like they are vinyl cut by a computer....amazing paint work!

Love the colors and that charging port is genius.
A buddy of mine actually suggested I use that cover! I can't believe I didn't think of it first :? I thought of putting the charge port there but I didn't think it would look good and I wanted to put a Roush sticker there instead. He pointed out that the cover would fit AND I could still put the Roush sticker on...DOH! It was so obvious :oops:
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