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Use this area as your personal project pages or blog! Each thread belongs to one user as a project page!
User avatar
By jonesee
#124013
sall wrote:It is working for 24v?

no! I originally was running 12 volt now it reads the 12 volt level downstream of the step down converter. It is for 12 only. I think it reads to 19 volts but an 18 volt battery is more like 22 volt at full capacity I believe.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124100
Well, the painting process is well under way with mixed success.

Not necessarily the best protocol but this is the following painting process I am forgoing.

1-scotchbrite all surfaces to be painted (cheated and got lazy on the underneath)
2-wash all parts with dawn and left to air dry in the hot sun
3-Wipe all surfaces down with 91% rubbing alcohol
4-fill scratches with spot glazing
5-spray 2 light coats of dupli color adhesion promoter (after partially melting a mirror during the heat treatment process I am going with a spray on option to promote enhanced adhesion)
6-started painting underside and all cracks and crevices followed by 1 light coat on all surfaces
7-scuffed all surfaces with scotchbrite pad, use compressor to blow off dust and wiped down with alcohol to prep for next coat.
8-attempted to fill in any missed or low spots with spot glazing (big mistake) turned paint into goo! instructions states that you can use on primed and painted surfaces :evil:
9-sanded down liquefied paint and repainted, left to dry over night.
10-scuffed all surfaces with scotchbrite pad again! Not really happy with the satin finish but I do like the flat/brushed look after I scuff. Todays mission is to look for flat paint Rustoleum 2X and visit body supply store to look for a wax and grease remover product to wipe down paint between coats.

On a side note- I am not impressed with the spray pattern of the Krylon fusion- it spits out blobs of paint and does not have the ability to spray consistently past a 45 degree angle (could be the humid Michigan summer?) but the 2x has been perfect?. The Rustoleum 2x that I had laying around and have been using on the underside is much better at spraying even at a horizontal angle.
Attachments
IMG_20140722_111219_586.jpg
before scuffing with scotchbrite
IMG_20140722_111404_831.jpg
nice flat finish I was looking for
IMG_20140722_111441_324.jpg
proof of progress!!
IMG_20140722_112326_189.jpg
note, do not use spot glazing on painted surface, ask me how I KNOW!!
IMG_20140722_112330_199.jpg
oh crap! had to start over, should have tested on paint first!!
IMG_20140722_112432_558.jpg
products being used so far
IMG_20140722_112547_269.jpg
Last edited by jonesee on Tue Jul 22, 2014 10:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
By mydudrevo
#124200
It's not necessary to scuff between coats. Just use a tack rag and compressed air to remove any dust before recoating


Sent from my iPhone using My Thumbs
Last edited by mydudrevo on Wed Jul 23, 2014 8:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124204
mydudrevo wrote:It's not necessary to scuff between coats. Just use a tack rag and compressed air to remove any dust before recoating


Sent from my iPhone using My Thumbs

It is when you use crappy Krylon fusion and it looks like someone sneezed all over your fresh paint. It is not necessary but it will knock down any high spots and provide a smooth surface for the next coat.

sall wrote:The spot putty is compatible with plastic?

yes but I assumed it was compatible with rustoleum and thought I could fill after a primer coat, WRONG! The lady at the auto paint store told me it is because rustoleum is oil based it will not work between coats like arcylic or laquer. Lesson learned.
User avatar
By sall
#124238
Interesting. I wouldn't think the spot putty would adhere in the long run or flex much. I have some Urethane Supply Company Flex Filler I used on vehicle bumper. Will likely give that shot on my current project.

Looking good though! How is the down time going for the little one?
User avatar
By jonesee
#124260
sall wrote:Interesting. I wouldn't think the spot putty would adhere in the long run or flex much. I have some Urethane Supply Company Flex Filler I used on vehicle bumper. Will likely give that shot on my current project.

Looking good though! How is the down time going for the little one?


thanks! down time? that is not an option around my house, besides he has plenty of other toys (too many according to my wife) in our stable we have a 20 mph 24 volt rzr, 36 volt rzr, 36 volt gator, 24 volt f150, 18 volt GD not to mention all the flips and custom rides that come and go on a weekly basis.

All 3 of my boys pretty much only ride the razor MX350 and MX500 dirt bikes these days, I hate to say it but it is time to start thinking about selling off the fleet. This summer has actually been a reality check for me. My daughter is now 8 and only fits in the big rzr and thinks they are too boyish to drive. Time is slipping away from me,I never got around to building her a sweet hot pink escalade with a big sound system in it that we talked about.:cry:

My powerwheels modding days are slowly slipping away, that is the main reason I am going big on project "NiteMare" as my little racer will probably only fit in it one more summer.
#124265
Time is slipping away from me,I never got around to building her a sweet hot pink escalade with a big sound system in it that we talked about.:cry:


That's MY reason for the seeming countless projects I've got going on. Now if I could only get around to finishing some of them... :x :roll: 8-)
User avatar
By jonesee
#124270
paint and body updates
Attachments
030.jpg
went with silver metallic rustoleum on the wheelie bars
035.jpg
went ford racing blue and welded up a new crossmember with the axle moved 5/8 inch forward because the wheels would rub on the inner fender before full turning,clears inner wall now.
036.jpg
love how the zoomie headers turned out with flat black painted on the inside tube wall, looks like real exhaust pipes if you ask me.
037.jpg
went with dark gray 2x for the underbody supports.
038.jpg
went with flat black for the custom spindles
040.jpg
flat black for the nos bottle mount too
042.jpg
main body in 2x black satin
043.jpg
might be bragging, but the lexan windshield is awesome!!
046.jpg
front end and metallic silver grill and carbon fiber pony
Last edited by jonesee on Thu Jul 24, 2014 6:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124271
still to do.... next post will update the hydrographics
Attachments
033.jpg
need to borrow gramps plasma cutter again and hog out the huge frame connector plate so shave some fat off this beast
032.jpg
with the small pinion the chain cleared the lower frame rail so I pitched the motor mount bracket and used the motor flange direct to frame slot.
034.jpg
lots of cutting and grinding left to do before painting the frame matte black
Last edited by jonesee on Thu Jul 24, 2014 6:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124272
now for the ugly... basically spend the whole day scuffing, filling and painting all the little goodies that I felt would look awesome in silver carbon fiber hydrodipping. Maybe I got cocky after how good the yellowjacket camaro mirrors and rims turned out :evil:

I was getting low on the silver base coat that was included with the mydipkit package so I ordered some "professional" hydrographics paint. The brand is One Hit Wonder and on the K2 forums everyone raves about how awesome it is. So after the kids were in bed I started the process of cutting the film, filling a storage tote with 90 degree water and soaked the film for 60 seconds like normal. I might have messed up by not cutting release slits in the masking tape and/or used too much activator because basically every piece needs to be re done. I am not sure what the problem was but it was a complete waste of time and materials. I plan to scuff and redo a few parts in the mydipkit paint and see what happens. Maybe the pro paint does not like the home version of film? I have no idea because dip after dip sucked! I wish I had a sanding assistant right about now!!
Attachments
020.jpg
layed out and ready to get my dip on
017.jpg
before base color
048.jpg
sink full of running ink!!
049.jpg
not horrible but not happy with the pattern stretch and runs
050.jpg
pattern runny, probably overactivated
051.jpg
this is the only piece that turned out ok but I think I am going to redo it once I figure out what when wrong last night, trial and error will prevail I hope
Last edited by jonesee on Thu Jul 24, 2014 11:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#124290
Bummer on the dip :cry: But the rest is coming out soooo awesome! :D

Just don't forget the strobe LED's that need to go in each zoomie tube for the proper Friday night qualifying effect... :shock: :lol: :lol:

Feel free to ban me from any more posts on your build... :lol: :lol: :lol: :roll:
User avatar
By jonesee
#124295
toycrusher wrote:Bummer on the dip :cry: But the rest is coming out soooo awesome! :D

Just don't forget the strobe LED's that need to go in each zoomie tube for the proper Friday night qualifying effect... :shock: :lol: :lol:

Feel free to ban me from any more posts on your build... :lol: :lol: :lol: :roll:


hmmmm, great idea, all it would take is 8 oznium super flux leds and this light controller http://www.oznium.com/cathode-music.

what color leds do you think? red, orange, white, yellow, pink or blue. I am thinking blue or maybe mix it up between cylinders :mrgreen:

And to top it all off, I already have all the parts on the shelf other than the blue leds, Thanks a lot Crusher, seriously I think I am going to use your idea and when we play the engine sounds the lights will flash! awesome idea
!!
#124297
I've used a similar strobe controller on an over-the-top boat we put together. Had lights in EVERY nook and cranny, deck, pipes, etc... Looked pretty sweet at night :D

On my lightning McQueen I used red and yellow LEDs in side pipes just hooked to a standard fast strobe that activated any time the gas pedal was pressed. I think throwing a little blue in there would be great along with having it connected to the audio strobe, just awesome!

If I remember correctly, you have the stock Mustang sounds running through the amp. Does the aftershock motor just have the shaking noises or does it also "rev up"? It will be interesting how it all mixes together including the whine from the real motor! 8-)
User avatar
By jonesee
#124306
how does this look? did not like mixing the orange and blue so ended up with all orange super flux. Thanks again for the idea Crusher!!

the aftershock motor just vibrates when you flip the rocker. Yes, the soundbox is amplified, is there a way to integrate the 3 components into one system. The sound box and motor run off of the stock 4.5 volt AA batteries while the lights are obviously on 12 volts. Any ideas welcome.

Last edited by jonesee on Fri Jul 25, 2014 10:28 am, edited 2 times in total.
#124309
The pipes came out cool but the "homemade" sound effects were priceless!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Seriously my mind has exploded from awesomeness 8-)
User avatar
By sall
#124316
jonesee wrote:The sound box and motor run off of the stock 4.5 volt AA batteries while the lights are obviously on 12 volts. Any ideas welcome.


Use a voltage regulator to step down the voltage from 12v to 4.5v. Maybe even a 5v regulator and diode to drop the voltage a bit more.
Last edited by sall on Fri Jul 25, 2014 1:03 pm, edited 3 times in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124317
sall wrote:
jonesee wrote:The sound box and motor run off of the stock 4.5 volt AA batteries while the lights are obviously on 12 volts. Any ideas welcome.


Use a voltage regulator to step down the voltage from 12v to 4.5v. Maybe even a 5v regulator and diode to drop the voltage a bit more.


this is where I am over my head, no idea where to find a 5 volt step down and what size diode to use
#124325
User avatar
By jonesee
#124328
toycrusher wrote:A few options

Circuit board

<a title="Link added by VigLink" class="vglnk" href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-6-0V-12V-to-5V-AMS1117-5-0V-Power-Supply-Module-AMS1117-/350769118827?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51ab77fe6b" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"><span>http</span><span>://</span><span>www</span><span>.</span><span>ebay</span><span>.</span><span>com</span><span>/</span><span>itm</span><span>/</span><span>New</span><span>-</span><span>6</span><span>-</span><span>0V</span><span>-</span><span>12V</span><span>-</span><span>to</span><span>-</span><span>5V</span><span>-</span><span>AMS1117</span><span>-</span><span>5</span><span>-</span><span>0V</span><span>-</span><span>Power</span><span>-</span><span>Supply</span><span>-</span><span>Module</span><span>-</span><span>AMS1117</span><span>-/</span><span>350769118827</span><span>?</span><span>pt</span><span>=</span><span>LH</span><span>_</span><span>DefaultDomain</span><span>_</span><span>0</span><span>&</span><span>hash</span><span>=</span><span>item51ab77fe6b</span></a>

Gas station car adapter you can break open and use

<a title="Link added by VigLink" class="vglnk" href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-USB-Car-Charger-Adaptor-5V-1A-For-MP3-iPod-iPhone-12V-FZ-CAV14-BD-/291039826293?pt=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Chargers&hash=item43c3535175" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"><span>http</span><span>://</span><span>www</span><span>.</span><span>ebay</span><span>.</span><span>com</span><span>/</span><span>itm</span><span>/</span><span>Mini</span><span>-</span><span>USB</span><span>-</span><span>Car</span><span>-</span><span>Charger</span><span>-</span><span>Adaptor</span><span>-</span><span>5V</span><span>-</span><span>1A</span><span>-</span><span>For</span><span>-</span><span>MP3</span><span>-</span><span>iPod</span><span>-</span><span>iPhone</span><span>-</span><span>12V</span><span>-</span><span>FZ</span><span>-</span><span>CAV14</span><span>-</span><span>BD</span><span>-/</span><span>291039826293</span><span>?</span><span>pt</span><span>=</span><span>US</span><span>_</span><span>Cell</span><span>_</span><span>Phone</span><span>_</span><span>PDA</span><span>_</span><span>Chargers</span><span>&</span><span>hash</span><span>=</span><span>item43c3535175</span></a>

Or the prettier option

<a title="Link added by VigLink" class="vglnk" href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-DC-DC-Converter-Regulator-12V-to-5V-3A-15W-Car-Led-Display-Powe-G9-/161318410924?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258f539aac" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"><span>http</span><span>://</span><span>www</span><span>.</span><span>ebay</span><span>.</span><span>com</span><span>/</span><span>itm</span><span>/</span><span>1PCS</span><span>-</span><span>DC</span><span>-</span><span>DC</span><span>-</span><span>Converter</span><span>-</span><span>Regulator</span><span>-</span><span>12V</span><span>-</span><span>to</span><span>-</span><span>5V</span><span>-</span><span>3A</span><span>-</span><span>15W</span><span>-</span><span>Car</span><span>-</span><span>Led</span><span>-</span><span>Display</span><span>-</span><span>Powe</span><span>-</span><span>G9</span><span>-/</span><span>161318410924</span><span>?</span><span>pt</span><span>=</span><span>LH</span><span>_</span><span>DefaultDomain</span><span>_</span><span>0</span><span>&</span><span>hash</span><span>=</span><span>item258f539aac</span></a>


really! it was that easy! sold, lets see how fast the boat from Hong Kong is running these days. Thanks once again crusher :P
#124329
Whoops, try this one. Ships from US and virtually the same price! :D

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-DC-DC-Conv ... 2c880f92e9
User avatar
By sall
#124334
That stepdown would be more ideal than a linear vreg. The vreg will get hot dropping 7v. You can still put a 1n4001 diode(doubt you are drawing more than 1A) on the output of the stepdown to further drop the voltage. I tested this just now and it dropped the voltage to 4.6v. I highly doubt the extra 0.5v is going to harm anything though!
Last edited by sall on Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124335
sall wrote:That stepdown would be more ideal than a linear vreg. The vreg will get hot dropping 7v. You can still put a 1n4001 diode(doubt you are drawing more than 1A) on the output of the stepdown to further drop the voltage. I tested this just now and it dropped the voltage to 4.6v. I highly doubt the extra 0.5v is going to harm anything though!



Awesome! thanks for the links and the diode number Sall. Step down ordered and on its way :P

Putting the Trak Power soldering station thru its paces tonite. Even though pro mod racers don't have head and tail lights it just would not be as cool without full on lights! 8 tail light leds installed and soldered up. Hope to get to the headlites too. Front running lights done too. Spent most of my allotted time today fabricating the custom wing supports and brackets.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124341
Well, tonite was a successful hydrodipping session! 8 out of 10 parts came out really nice and the two #$%! #$'s were my fault for trapping air from the angle I dipped the part in the water without back rolling it to allow the air pocket to escape, and the valve cover was my fault for dipping too slow and allowing water to beat me to the material before the film stuck. Now I have 3 parts total to redo.

Got some lighting done too. :mrgreen: more lighting updates to come...
Attachments
007.jpg
the ponies turned out perfect!
006.jpg
the good
008.jpg
the bad
009.jpg
now to add 2 coats of gloss clear coat tomorrow
010.jpg
the 6 round are the tail and will come on with the headlights. the 6 inch led strip at the top will turn on with the front running lites and the blue fog lights
003.jpg
made some slick brackets for the rear wing support out of rc ball ends and aluminum channel
002.jpg
braces will go underneath rear wing where it kicks up and the other end will be riveted on at the bottom of the bumper
001.jpg
spotted some rc fule line at the hobby shop and decided to cut the hard plastic spark plug wires and swap it out for this soft flexible red silicone tubing
005.jpg
motor mocked up with new sparky wires
Last edited by jonesee on Sat Jul 26, 2014 12:25 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124386
sall wrote:You should do sequential brakes on the rear end! ;)


that would be sweet, like on the full scale stangs!! again, over my head electrical wise :oops:

I do know how to wire up basic lights though :D ;) Front end is wired, soldered and ready to install once the chassis is ready for it...

paint?check
lighting?check
hydrodipping?check
put chassis plate on a plasma cutter diet? next on the list!!
Attachments
DSC_1614.JPG
eagle eye headlights, blue glass 29 led bulbs in the grill and the custom amber running lights are the slim line orange 6 inch strips
DSC_1613.JPG
silver carbon dipped headlight bezel
DSC_1615.JPG
DSC_1616.JPG
DSC_1619.JPG
should be a dramatic effect at night with the orange flames shooting out of the zoomie headers!!
DSC_1622.JPG
one off custom running lights by taking a peel and stick reflector, cutting it length wise and using a heat gun to bend it to the contour of the bumper, shooting for the moderator pick with this mod!!
DSC_1624.JPG
Last edited by jonesee on Sat Jul 26, 2014 9:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124417
some body updates as well as a TSB- had a buddy come over and was chatting about being bummed about not being able to pull wheelies in NOS mode. He started looking into relocating the batteries that are mounted mid frame under the seat to behind the drivers side wheel for a huge gain in rear weight transfer. Long story short- I am building a whole new frame that will have many upgrades from the original prototype. Minor tweaks to how things are layed out and moving the motor mount from the center, over to the pass side 2 inches will allow the 2x 12 volt 18 ah batteries to tuck behind the drivers side tire. I have been on the fence about the current frame as being a prototype there are mounts and tabs that I was planning on cutting out and moving. It will actually be faster, and it will look much cleaner and perform better with the new setup. A much thicker plate for the motor mount too, as when my son went airborne from jumping the edge of the asphalt at full speed, it tweaked the 1/8 inch motor plate because the motor is not supported at the end of the case, adding a brace to support the end bell too. I will also have the option of running 4x12 volt 18ah as there will still be room under the seat for 2 more 18ah's ( I wonder if this motor can handle 48 volts? :shock: that would only bring it up to 44 mph ;) . We both suspect that the winch motor has a lot of untapped potential due to lack of sufficient battery ah capacity to really get out of the hole like it should as this beast pulls a lot of amps from a dead stop under load. Hope to get laying an arc soon!!
Attachments
003.jpg
aftershock mocked up and looks like a mountain motor under da hood!
004.jpg
005.jpg
006.jpg
007.jpg
009.jpg
had the neighbor cut me a little pro mod vinyl decal for the new lexan windshield. The little details are starting to really shine!!
Last edited by jonesee on Mon Jul 28, 2014 12:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
#124426
Jonesee,

If you are interested in doing a brake light sequencer, talk to CJB. I have his Turbo Timer Gold installed and it has a sequencer built into it (it works). If I remember correctly, he was going to break the sequencer out into a stand alone module.

Dave
#124427
Love the progress you're making! Excited to see how your updated chassis works out.

I've noticed the same issues with Krylon paint on projects. I've always wondered why people recommend/use it. The Rustoleum x2 puts out great pressure, volume, and pattern. Any of there paints paired with their Crystal Clear Clear coat makes any finish shine! Being able to spray at any angle is a plus as well.
#124430
It's on the final stretch! To assist you I think the rest of us should begin chanting together...

Jonesee
Jonesee
Jonesee

Jonesee
Jonesee
Jonesee


Jonesee
Jonesee
Jonesee!


Or maybe not :roll: :lol:
User avatar
By jonesee
#124433
daveweber34 wrote:Jonesee,

If you are interested in doing a brake light sequencer, talk to CJB. I have his Turbo Timer Gold installed and it has a sequencer built into it (it works). If I remember correctly, he was going to break the sequencer out into a stand alone module.

Dave


thanks for the heads up, I just Pm'd CJB so we will see what the turbo timer is all about, finally!!
cantdrivestock wrote:Love the progress you're making! Excited to see how your updated chassis works out.

I've noticed the same issues with Krylon paint on projects. I've always wondered why people recommend/use it. The Rustoleum x2 puts out great pressure, volume, and pattern. Any of there paints paired with their Crystal Clear Clear coat makes any finish shine! Being able to spray at any angle is a plus as well.


thanks, yeah that is why I gave my negative review of the krylon paint! Its not really bad paint but the spray nozzle sucks!!
toycrusher wrote:It's on the final stretch! To assist you I think the rest of us should begin chanting together...

Jonesee
Jonesee
Jonesee

Jonesee
Jonesee
Jonesee


Jonesee
Jonesee
Jonesee!


Or maybe not :roll: :lol:


HA!! I sat in the garage for 3 hours last night going back and forth between just rolling with the current frame and building a new one from scratch!(I am so close to being done, all that is left was to clean up the frame and paint it!) or taking the time and re engineering the little things that bug me that I can fix now while the beast is apart. Atleast if I build a new frame and it does not pan out I can go back to prototype #1 :mrgreen: and slap it together OR give birth to "Son of Nitemare"!!
Last edited by jonesee on Mon Jul 28, 2014 8:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124484
Well, I am the first one to admit that I am obsessed with getting project NiteMare to lift the front tires! Not sure if it is possible but I have given it my all (except going 36 volts!). I even missed my favorite show "Street Outlaws" to get the new frame built ( I really need a dvr!)

Not knocking my father in law, but the frame he built just was not up to par. He is used to building trailers and flat beds so I guess I should not have expected a racing chassis :lol:

I spent several hours just staring and measuring and finally came up with a game plan. My main objectives were to get weight to the back of the axle to provide optimum weight transfer and loose some excess weight. So I started from scratch and build a whole new 1 inch square tube frame. I moved the motor to the right 2 inches to allow room for the 2x12 volt 18 ah batteries behind the drivers side slick. I had to fab up a new motor mount bracket so I upgraded from 1/8 plate to 3/16 plate and will be adding a support bracket under the motor to prevent excess mount flex. I used the plasma cutter to cut the slots to allow chain tensioning. I also extended the sub frame connectors all the way to the front crossmember to tie the entire chassis together (originally I had no intentions of going this extreme and planned on using the stock plastic crossmember) since the powerful disk brakes cause the stock plastic frame to buckle. I have a little more fab work to do but want to wait till the new wheelie bar clevis rod ends come in http://www.ebay.com/itm/400292378786?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT so I can figure out the new wheelie bar bracket and parachute mount. I am very pleased with the new frame and cannot wait to finish it and get a weight comparison
Attachments
DSC_1626.JPG
new frame with batteries stuffed wayyyy back
DSC_1627.JPG
looking like a top fuel dragster
DSC_1628.JPG
side by side of the new and old frame
DSC_1629.JPG
way stiffer motor mount and it is still getting more support from underneath and a vertical square tube welded on to support the body and side load of the motor mount
DSC_1630.JPG
new and improved design
DSC_1631.JPG
kind of ashamed of the old frame looking at them side by side!!
#124496
8-)
User avatar
By jonesee
#124562
Minor progress with the wing support braces. Still need to fab the rear body support, battery hold down and wheelie bar mounts. then I should be able to paint the frame and final assembly :mrgreen:
Attachments
008.jpg
009.jpg
010.jpg
011.jpg
012.jpg
013.jpg
014.jpg
User avatar
By jonesee
#124871
well, it has been really tough making time to work on NiteMare, but today I had a buddy come into town and wanted to show him my attempt to make the baddest powerwheels ever so I burned rubber to get some work done, lets just say he had no idea this kind of "modifiedpowerwheels" was possible!!.

I got most of the wiring done and in functional enough condition to display all the cool custom work on this beast. Here is a video to give an update of the current status.
I am really hoping to get the stang, a custom 36 or 48 volt Ford Raptor and a pivot hitch trailer done in time for a car show coming up on 8-16 (probably too high of an expectation) hosted by a shop that does high end race car paint jobs.


update: cannot get a video to upload to youtube... :x
Last edited by jonesee on Wed Aug 06, 2014 8:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#124874
a custom 36 or 48 volt Ford Raptor and a pivot hitch trailer


Settle for 24v on the F-150 but make it a tandem axle gooseneck trailer with matching F-150 wheels 8-) :twisted: 8-)
User avatar
By jonesee
#124880
toycrusher wrote:
a custom 36 or 48 volt Ford Raptor and a pivot hitch trailer


Settle for 24v on the F-150 but make it a tandem axle gooseneck trailer with matching F-150 wheels 8-) :twisted: 8-)


I have had a set of 23 t #7's with the 350 watt 24 volt peg motors and Mltoys aluminum first gear mounted up for 6 months. I think it would be a dog on 24 volts. The trailer bed has been welded up for about as long too, just waiting on welding the axles to the frame. It is a tandem axle. I went with some 10 inch rubber wheels from harbor freight. A fifth wheel sticking out of the bed of the lil ford would look sweet. Not sure what is going on with the youtube vid? swaps back and forth from 0% upload to 2332 min left, and I started upload last night and this is the second attempt ?
Last edited by jonesee on Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:29 am, edited 3 times in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124918
Here it is guys!! NiteMare is offically done :mrgreen: It took 3 days to complete the final assembly and make everything look professional. I have poured every ounce of my skill set (and then some) into this project to try and create the ultimate powerwheels. It has been a blast and I was truly inspired by all the input,advice and assistance on this project. I hope you guys enjoy it and get some ideas or inspiration to one up me and build the ultimate battery powered ride on :D :D Without further adieu here are the completed pictures and am trying to upload a video but it is taking forever (calling the internet provider tomorrow) I know you guys are bored with my running videos, so I wont even bother posting any racing footage with the newly designed frame with the batteries behind the axle.
Attachments
DSC_1632.JPG
what do you think of this rear end?
DSC_1633.JPG
DSC_1634.JPG
DSC_1635.JPG
love those super flux in the zoomies
DSC_1636.JPG
I feel that lighting is my strong point on this build
DSC_1637.JPG
this is hopefully the last time it is on the bench.Now I need to find some help to get her on the tarmac
DSC_1638.JPG
the front crossmember turned out awesome. Starting to get fair at welding thanks to this project
DSC_1639.JPG
new improved chassis ties into the front crossmember and moving the front axle forward was well worth the time (now the wheels do not hit the inner fender)
User avatar
By jonesee
#124919
here is some more eye candy on the final results. If only you could see my ear to ear grin right now. I am so proud of this little stang :mrgreen: It was quite amusing watching ever car stop and stare at her while I was snapping these pics to post up :D
Attachments
DSC_1640.JPG
added dremel cut off wheels to the scoop to like like the scoop has real working butterfly valves, even used brass screws
DSC_1641.JPG
neoprene gas line for the spark plug wires really pop over the black paint
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I think this is what every other powerwheels will be seeing
DSC_1643.JPG
got fancy and used rubber grommets to feed each motor esc wire thru the body
DSC_1644.JPG
close up of the new wheelie bar threaded clevis rod ends, like the real cars use
DSC_1645.JPG
motor barely fits back there but it really helps with the weight transfer
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ford racing blue chassis
DSC_1647.JPG
added stick on mirror material to the side views too
User avatar
By jonesee
#124921
more pics
Attachments
DSC_1650.JPG
parachute mount and support struts
DSC_1651.JPG
relocated batteries to behind the axle in chassis 2.o
DSC_1653.JPG
my sons view
DSC_1654.JPG
lots of levers, doodads and gadgets to play with, just dont hit the red button on the steering wheel!
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carbon hydro dipped ponies all around
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the custom plate from Battman says it all!!
#124927
Over the top! Applause to you sir for another epic build! Can't wait to see your vid! People ask me where do I find the time? Now , I find myself being on of those people! Where do you find the time? Lol.

If you were to reproduce the 2.0 chassis, what do you think it'd cost? How much would you sell it for?
#124933
Astounding! :D :D :D :mrgreen: :D :D :D Unreal what you have been able to create here. 8-)

When your son finally decides to retire it, it should go straight to a museum! :ugeek:
#124939
cantdrivestock wrote:Over the top! Applause to you sir for another epic build! Can't wait to see your vid! People ask me where do I find the time? Now , I find myself being on of those people! Where do you find the time? Lol.

If you were to reproduce the 2.0 chassis, what do you think it'd cost? How much would you sell it for?


the time thing has been rough, basically after the kids are in bed I have a window of 10pm-3pm to work and then get up at 8 am to do the day thing.

the chassis would not be expensive it is all the items bolted to it. I have already had a few people on my facebook page ask me how much to build them one and I did not hear back after telling them $2,500. racing parts are not cheap, heck a plastic #7 goes for $50 on ebay!!

toycrusher wrote:Astounding! :D :D :D :mrgreen: :D :D :D Unreal what you have been able to create here. 8-)

When your son finally decides to retire it, it should go straight to a museum! :ugeek:


thanks, without your wiring help it would have just been a cut up piece of plastic, I have already been brainstorming on how to move the seat back and move the steering to the center for a single seater.
User avatar
By SigEp
#124949
jonesee wrote:I know you guys are bored with my running videos, so I wont even bother posting any racing footage with the newly designed frame with the batteries behind the axle.


What? When you get done with the car shows, let's see a running video of the final product.
#124993
Well, Nightmare may be done, but you still have some work to do out in the yard...





























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shopping.jpg (9.26 KiB) Viewed 3365 times


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