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KidsWheels
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User avatar
By SigEp
#14638
Carry over from the old forum:

http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/foru ... C_ID=21280

It's about time I finished this one up. Planning to make this my son's first birthday present.

Today I picked up two cans of Krylon Fusion White Gloss and a can of Krylon Silver Glitter. My plan is to do a base coat of white, add glitter, then either just clearcoat it, or do another layer of glitter depending on how it looks. I want it to be white with a glittery finish to it. Interior will be mostly gloss gray just like our local police cars.

Next step is to cut out for the emergency flashing lights, then do a little sanding and prep.
Last edited by SigEp on Fri Mar 25, 2011 7:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.


User avatar
By SigEp
#14689
Finished stripping down the body and removing all the stickers:
TotRod1.JPG
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Cut out for the Red/Blue strobes. It'll have two in front and two in back:
TotRod2.JPG
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Cut out for the Strobe Controller. It will be installed in the dash where the fake radio sticker goes:
TotRod3.JPG
TotRod3.JPG (35.05 KiB) Viewed 12387 times
Next step, sanding & power washing, then painting...
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#14694
STOOOOOOP! DO NOT put clear coat over the Gloss White. It will not turn out good; it tends to get a cloudy look and even end up looking dull. Use Flat White base with the clear over it and it will look ten times better. Hope I caught you in time.
User avatar
By SigEp
#14741
No worries, you caught me.

By "flat" should I use Krylon Fusion "Satin"? Or do you recommend another type? I found the same cloudy issue when I tried to clear over Krylon Fusion Black Satin. I figured it was because it was 1, satin rather than gloss, and 2, because it was so dark. The clear went great over Red Gloss, Tan Gloss, and Silver Hammered.
User avatar
By SigEp
#14790
Another question. Would it matter when I do the clear? I'm planning to do all the paint, stickers, etc. Then let it all cure for about a month before I do the clear. I also wonder if the clear became cloudy last time because I was clearing within 15 minutes of the base coat (I did that to not have to wait for full cure between coats).

But again, seemed to be fine with Gloss, was only an issue with Satin.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#15051
SigEp wrote:No worries, you caught me.

By "flat" should I use Krylon Fusion "Satin"? Or do you recommend another type? I found the same cloudy issue when I tried to clear over Krylon Fusion Black Satin. I figured it was because it was 1, satin rather than gloss, and 2, because it was so dark. The clear went great over Red Gloss, Tan Gloss, and Silver Hammered.

No, Satin is more glossy than flat, in between glossy and flat. Flat should have no shine at all once dry. I have never tried to clear coat a satin paint; I prefer to use my clear coat to give it the desired gloss. You can get Flat, Satin or Gloss clear.

I have been really happy with Valspar lately. The flat colors lay really nice and you really have to be trying hard to cause a drip. The Valspar Gloss Clear is perfectly compatible with the flat base colors and shines really nice. Re coat time for Valspar flat color coat is 36 hours; sure beats 7 days! I have been using Krylon Flat Clear Acrylic over Valspar Flat Black for all of my interior and tire paint and it turns out great.

Another option for a color coat is a little more tricky and a touch more expensive but your color choices are infinite. I'm going to be using Auto Air airbrush paint (Iridescent Green, see below) over a silver base coat with a Valspar clear. To use the air brush paint as your color coat you need to use an automotive spray gun ($40 Kobalt Detail Gun from Lowes). Auto Air is a water based paint so it's pretty easy to work with. There is no re coat limitation. Color must be heat set (heat gun) before clearing. Reducer is also suggested, also water based.

I'm not 100% sure why the cloudy effect happens. I only know that it has never happened to me using a flat base color.

Auto Air Iridescent Green Test Piece

Image

SigEp wrote:Another question. Would it matter when I do the clear? I'm planning to do all the paint, stickers, etc. Then let it all cure for about a month before I do the clear. I also wonder if the clear became cloudy last time because I was clearing within 15 minutes of the base coat (I did that to not have to wait for full cure between coats).

But again, seemed to be fine with Gloss, was only an issue with Satin.
When to do clear will be based on the re coat times of you base color. Fusion is usually within an hour or after 7 days. The clears I use can be re coated anytime. Rule of thumb for me is to let any coat dry for 15-20 minutes minimum before the next coat. This is mainly to avoid runs. A month should be just fine. Just realizee that even after a month the clear thst you put on will soften the base coat a little and will remain soft for up to three days. I only warn you of this because thats how I put the thumb print in the hood of the Roush! It had been sitting for a day and a half but it was still a little soft.

Sounds like clearing Satin paints doesn't work too well! I hope this helps.
Last edited by DefensiveWound on Tue Mar 29, 2011 4:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By SigEp
#15061
Very Helpful! Of course this leads to a few more questions.

The only local vendor I have for Krylon is Walmart and they only sell Satin (which they refer to as flat) and Gloss. What brand do you use for your flat base? Do you use Valspar? If so, which particular type? Would you recommend Valspar flat, then Valspar Clear Enamel for the clearcoat? Wait 15-20 minutes after base to paint clear, or wait at least a week?

Also, your Roush project uses Krylon Fusion Textured Shimmer. Looks fantastic, but Walmart has limited colors (not yours) in our area. When you paint with that, would you suggest that as the base, then clear with Valspar Clear Enamel?

Thanks! I'm super novice with this painting stuff.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#15066
SigEp wrote:Very Helpful! Of course this leads to a few more questions.

The only local vendor I have for Krylon is Walmart and they only sell Satin (which they refer to as flat) and Gloss. What brand do you use for your flat base? Do you use Valspar? If so, which particular type? Would you recommend Valspar flat, then Valspar Clear Enamel for the clearcoat? Wait 15-20 minutes after base to paint clear, or wait at least a week?

Also, your Roush project uses Krylon Fusion Textured Shimmer. Looks fantastic, but Walmart has limited colors (not yours) in our area. When you paint with that, would you suggest that as the base, then clear with Valspar Clear Enamel?

Thanks! I'm super novice with this painting stuff.
Vendors- Check ANY store that sells spray paint, good chance you will find it. The can will say either Satin or Flat directly on it. Color choices are always limited with spray paint, especially if you are using a flat base, which is why I recommended the Auto Air option if you can not find the color you want.

I use Valspar Flat Enamel with Valspar Crystal Clear Enamel. I highly recommend it. With Valspar flat colors, you have to re coat (with either another color coat or clear) within 4 hours or after 36 hours but I would give it at least 5 days for temp. variables, etc. if not done within the 4 hours. Valspar is not a "made for plastic" paint so you will also need the Valspar Plastic Primer which is a clear flat primer and works great. One solid coat of the primer is all you need; wait one hour before color coating over primer. 15-20 minute window in between ANY coats. Your re coat time starts over with ea. coat. I think Valspar is only available at Lowes but I'm not positive. Lowes for sure though. Home Depot will not have it.

Textured- I used it straight against the plastic as my base and then used Valspar Crystal Clear Enamel built up to cover texture. Let dry for at least one full day then wet sanded with 600 grit sandpaper, cleaned thoroughly then one more coat of clear. Let this set up for a few days.

If you use an Enamel clear over Fusion (which is a Lacquer), you can NOT go back with Fusion over the clear for touch up or it will wrinkle. Remember- Enamel over Lacquer= Good, Lacquer over Enamel= Bad. Valspar is all Enamel so there are no worries there.
Last edited by DefensiveWound on Tue Mar 29, 2011 5:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By SigEp
#15075
Alright, found Valspar at Lowes. This is what they had for clear finishes (all Valspar brand):

Clear Flat (might be good for interior?)
Clear Satin
Clear Gloss (is this the one you refer to as Crystal Clear Enamel?)
Lacquer High Gloss

Checked the Valspar website and couldn't find any other clears. Also can't find any gray flat. Closest I could find is Primer Gray. Maybe I could use that for the interior and go over it with Clear Flat? Appears they also have a Flat White, but it's an enamel, not a plastic paint. Not sure if that would adhere as good as the paint made specifically for plastic.
User avatar
By SigEp
#15077
Found some "White" Krylon Fusion Textured Shimmer. Thinking about using that for the exterior color. The top of the can looks yellowish though which has me a little worried. I'll do some test spots first.

I still want to find the "Silver" Krylon Fusion Textured Shimmer for the wheels. That stuff is hard to find!
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#15090
Plastic Primer- http://www.valsparspray.com/Product/pco ... oduct---GO
Krystal Clear- http://www.valsparspray.com/Product/pco ... oduct---GO

Yeah, I'm not seeing flat grey either. You could try a test panel using gloss grey with a flat clear. This may actually work pretty good. I don't see why the grey primer with a flat clear wouldn't work either. You just have to make sure that you use a plastic primer first or else the grey primer will not stick too well.

Whats your zip, I may be able to track down some textured shimmer for you. Or if I have to, I will buy it for you here and ship it to you... on your tab of course! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Edit- retailers for Fusion. See if you have any of these stores around.

http://www.krylon.com/locator/index.jsp
Last edited by DefensiveWound on Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By SigEp
#15228
Found all the colors of Textured Shimmer at Kmart. They also had a non-textured shimmer in color aluminum which might look cool on the wheels. I picked up a can and plan to test this weekend. If it doesn't look good, I'll just go over it with Silver Textured Shimmer.

Haven't had a chance to look for the Valspar Krystal Clear yet. Looks like there are only 3 dealers in my area though, so might be hard to find.
User avatar
By SigEp
#15518
So I started in on the paint today. I painted the undercarriage best I could. I was mostly looking to make the inside of the wheel wells white as that's likely the only thing seen around the wheels. I didn't bother clear coating it because I'm not too worried about it getting scratched. If it does, I can touch it up with some spray.
TotRod4.JPG
TotRod4.JPG (33.55 KiB) Viewed 12298 times
User avatar
By SigEp
#15519
For the wheels, I used Krylon Fusion Metallic Shimmer. It's similar to the Textured Shimmer, but with no texture, therefor no wet sanding needed. It went on really nice and I followed it up with 3 coats of Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel. Turned out super sweet. Not sure my camera really shows it but here goes:
TotRod7.JPG
TotRod7.JPG (36.88 KiB) Viewed 12298 times
User avatar
By SigEp
#15522
So to the main body finish...

I was thinking I would use Krylon Fusion "White" Textured Shimmer. I did a test spray and it's off white, almost a cream color! Won't work...

So next I tried my original plan. I sprayed with Krylon Fusion Gloss White, then did a light dusting with Krylon Silver Glitter Spray. I followed it up with 3 coats of Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel. Turned out great! I plan to do the top of the main body tomorrow this way. Today I did the front windshield and the interior trim which covers front wiring. My picture kinda sucks, but it's the best I can do. I can assure you it glitters awesome in the sun:
TotRod6.JPG
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Here's the paints and clear I used today:
TotRod5.JPG
TotRod5.JPG (61.56 KiB) Viewed 12297 times
User avatar
By drew510
#15525
SigEp wrote:For the wheels, I used Krylon Fusion Metallic Shimmer. It's similar to the Textured Shimmer, but with no texture, therefor no wet sanding needed. It went on really nice and I followed it up with 3 coats of Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel. Turned out super sweet. Not sure my camera really shows it but here goes:
TotRod7.JPG
Looks great! Two questions, one opinion. How soon did you shoot the clear after your last coat of color and were the clear coats thick or light? I have two cans of that shimmer and was considering using it for the engine and exhaust of a Harley. Do you think that would look good?
User avatar
By SigEp
#15536
drew510 wrote:
SigEp wrote:For the wheels, I used Krylon Fusion Metallic Shimmer. It's similar to the Textured Shimmer, but with no texture, therefor no wet sanding needed. It went on really nice and I followed it up with 3 coats of Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel. Turned out super sweet. Not sure my camera really shows it but here goes:
TotRod7.JPG
Looks great! Two questions, one opinion. How soon did you shoot the clear after your last coat of color and were the clear coats thick or light? I have two cans of that shimmer and was considering using it for the engine and exhaust of a Harley. Do you think that would look good?
I follow the painting techniques of DefensiveWound (gotta give props). So I clear right after painting. That way I don't have to wait a week to clear. So what I do is spray very light coats of paint with about 5-10 minutes between till I achieve full coverage. One thing I found with the Metallic Shimmer is when you're doing the first couple coats, the "shimmer" in it may bunch up and looks darker in some spots than others. Don't worry about this, as you add additional coats it will even out.

Once I achieve full coverage with the paint, I wait about 10-15 minutes, then spray a very light dusting coat of Clear. I then wait 5-10 minutes between coats and spray light coats of clear until I achieve an even glossy coverage. Usually takes 3-4 coats total. As far as if any of the coats are thick, I don't think any were (sometimes hard to tell with clear since I paint outside and lighting isn't as good as in a garage). But you definitely want to spray enough (per coat) to achieve full even coverage. If you spray two lightly (ok for the first coat), you'll notice that it leaves a texture.

And finally, yes, I think it would look great on a Harley exhaust and engine.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#15554
Hey SigEp- The concentrated darker spots you were talking about is called tiger striping. This happens with almost any metallic paint. It happens because the metal flakes are laying down at different angels due to you spraying at different angels.

The best way to do away with this- Once you get full coverage with your metallic paint, go back and do a dust coat over the entire thing; make a fog about 12 inches above it and let it settle down onto the piece. When I do the dust coat I will not let off the nozzle through the whole dust coat, hold it down the whole time. The dust coat should all lay at the same angel and you should have no tiger striping.
User avatar
By SigEp
#15597
So today I painted the main body, same way, Krylon White Gloss, Krylon Glitter, then Rustoleum Clear. Turned out real nice. I may do a couple more coats of clear after I install the decals, but not sure on that one. On the upside, they'll be more protected from weather and little prying fingers. On the downside, they'll be almost impossible to replace if they get old and faded.

Clear over decals or not?

Here's a couple pics of the body. From a few feet away, just looks white, as you get closer, you see the sparkle. My wife told me today that the paint job is "totally rediculous". I think that's a compliment?
TotRod8.JPG
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TotRod9.JPG
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User avatar
By SigEp
#25383
Finally getting back to this project. My son turns 1 in about a week and this was supposed to be his first birthday present... I don't think he'll mind!

Did some of the interior painting. It will be metallic white exterior with gray interior.
TotRod10.JPG
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TotRod11.JPG
TotRod11.JPG (75.15 KiB) Viewed 12138 times
User avatar
By SigEp
#25452
Here's how the interior turned out. It's a little shiny. I could only find gloss gray paint. The only other gray I could find was primer and that worried me a little... Ah well, it will definitely dull with time.
TotRod12.JPG
TotRod12.JPG (36.8 KiB) Viewed 12126 times
User avatar
By SigEp
#29758
Ok, I've been slacking on this project, I know. I had a backlog of flippers I had to clear out, but I'm back in the game.

Last weekend I spent pretty much all day Saturday and most of Sunday creating the decals. I used some of the stock decals but changed them around such as changing the front fog lights to clear matching the headlights and changing the colors of the dash decals to be red and blue buttons like you would maybe see on a police car. I also changed the radio station to some text from a police computer.

Today I cut out and applied all the decals, then did a final 3 coats of clear over the whole car. I think I may have out done myself on this one... Anyway, I'm going to let it cure for a couple weeks before I re-assemble. My son's 1st birthday which this was for came and went (4 weeks ago...). My new deadline is our National Night Out Block Party August 2nd. When the police come by the party, my son might pull them over and give them a ticket!

Here's some pics from after decals and clear:
TotRod13.JPG
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TotRod14.JPG
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TotRod15.JPG
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Last edited by SigEp on Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By SigEp
#29781
Thanks, that green was actually done by DefensiveWound. His projects have been the inspiration and guidence of most of my painting. I believe he did that with automotive paint (I've never attempted that!).
User avatar
By Deere Green
#29853
Lookn' great!!! The rims are going to look awesome under there. Have you thought about what a super high gloss black would look like?? Just an idea that might look cool as well...nice work though. Still don't see how you guys always end up getting the stickers on stright though...no matter what I try, stright edge or not, they look off when I try to apply a decal.

Cannot wait to see some finished photos
User avatar
By SigEp
#29861
They're not perfect, but close enough.

One trick on the decals (I haven't personally tried it), is to lightly spray some soapy water on the surface before you apply the decal. Then you can slide the decal around till it's in position and squeeze out all the bubbles. Once in position, you set it in the sun to dry and the soapy water will dry under the decal, leaving it perfectly aligned.
User avatar
By SigEp
#31384
Ok, finally wrapping up the Tot Rod build. Here's a couple pics of the wiring for the strobe lights:
TotRod16.JPG
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TotRod17.JPG
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Last edited by SigEp on Sat Jul 30, 2011 10:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By SigEp
#31385
Putting everything back together today and realized that the battery really takes up a lot of space under the seat (upgraded from 6v8ah to 12v12ah!). It also is so close to the motor that it almost touches. So I decided I needed a little heat insulation. I picked up some insulation from an auto parts store. This stuff blocks 90% radiant head and protects up to 500 degrees direct touching heat. So hopefully this should protect the battery...
TotRod18.JPG
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TotRod19.JPG
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By spyder384
#31388
Your paint turned out great! I will be painting my barbie lambo soon and this thread (with your and defensivewound's insight) makes me confident that a good result can be achieved!
User avatar
By SigEp
#31463
Ok, completed, FINALLY! Or so said my son... Anyways, here are the completion pics:
TotRod20.JPG
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TotRod26.JPG
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User avatar
By SigEp
#31465
Here's some closeups of particular features:
TotRod27.JPG
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TotRod28.JPG
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TotRod29.JPG
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TotRod30.JPG
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Here's the interior:
TotRod31.JPG
TotRod31.JPG (76.39 KiB) Viewed 11891 times
And here's the car with the color matched handle attached:
TotRod32.JPG
TotRod32.JPG (72.77 KiB) Viewed 11891 times
User avatar
By SigEp
#31568
Sucker Punch wrote:Very nice work! I love the LED's. Where did you get those from?
I got them from a Hong Kong vendor off eBay. There's a bunch of them that sell different configurations. It's what most people on this forum use for strobe leds.
User avatar
By SigEp
#31813
Here's a pic from a couple nights ago when he drove it for the first time in the Park. Though he's still not talking much, he seems to be saying, "Come on Dad, why are we stopped??!!"
TotRod33.jpg
TotRod33.jpg (93.56 KiB) Viewed 11822 times
Here's a video of the same time, his first BPRO ride!
User avatar
By DennisDaMenace
#32089
Great job on the paint and decals. Love the details. I'm assuming the two posts next to the license plate are your charge posts for the battery. Is there an inline fuse between one of the post and the battery? If not, I recommend adding a 5A inline fuse just in case the posts are accidentally shorted.
Image
By Pizza Snob
#32371
Great work. Where did you buy the insulators for the charge posts/lugs? I could not find any for mine so I had to make them.
User avatar
By SigEp
#32390
Pizza Snob wrote:Great work. Where did you buy the insulators for the charge posts/lugs? I could not find any for mine so I had to make them.
They came with them. I buy them from CarQuest Autoparts. OSH has a few different sizes of insulators as well.
By JPH3185
#97767
This looks great... I think I may use the Krylon Silver Glitter Spray on my sons. Do you feel like it helped to hide small imperfections? How many cans did you use of the Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel and the Glitter Spray ?
User avatar
By SigEp
#97778
JPH3185 wrote:This looks great... I think I may use the Krylon Silver Glitter Spray on my sons. Do you feel like it helped to hide small imperfections? How many cans did you use of the Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel and the Glitter Spray ?
If you're painting, there isn't really a reason to have imperfections. Just make sure you sand it really good, then lay down your base color. I think I used one full can of Clear and less than a can of Glitter. You don't need to use much Glitter at all, and the Glitter can is about 1/3 the size of a standard Krylon can. When I paint, I always make sure I keep one extra of every color I'm using. I don't like to wait 2 weeks between coats. I do it all in one shot (10-15 min between coats).
By JPH3185
#97783
Okay, Thank you! It does have some imperfections from scratches on the bumper. I tried bondo and sanding... they arnt bad but I notice them. This is my first time, and I am a female... Working on cars isnt something I typically do. Thats why I got on this forum for advice. ;)
User avatar
By SigEp
#97803
JPH3185 wrote:Okay, Thank you! It does have some imperfections from scratches on the bumper. I tried bondo and sanding... they arnt bad but I notice them. This is my first time, and I am a female... Working on cars isnt something I typically do. Thats why I got on this forum for advice. ;)
Sanding is good for deep scratches, heat gun for light scratches. Both are fine if you plan to paint. The Glitter will do some cover-up, but not much.
By rubburner
#116801
Quick question for you - how did you get the steering wheel assembly disassembled? Does the center cap pop off? (since i'm asking, do you have disassembly instructions somewhere?) Starting on a transformation from a princess tot rod to one with more masculine colors. Also, what was the "rubber" you used for your wheels? Thanks!
User avatar
By SigEp
#116874
rubburner wrote:Quick question for you - how did you get the steering wheel assembly disassembled? Does the center cap pop off? (since i'm asking, do you have disassembly instructions somewhere?) Starting on a transformation from a princess tot rod to one with more masculine colors. Also, what was the "rubber" you used for your wheels? Thanks!
The steering wheel center cap pops out with a screwdriver. I believe there is a push nut underneath it to hold the steering wheel to the shaft. I used rubber matting from OSH on the front wheels only. I wanted the rear wheels to have some give so I didn't bust the gearbox. So far that set up has worked great.

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