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M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
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#121104
I acquired a Barbie Cruisin' Tunes Jeep from a neighbor in overall good working condition but the body was faded from the sun. I wanted to transform it in to something more suitable for my two year old little fella. I do not have many pictures of the teardown but you all know all about that. I ended up giving it a simple 'safety' orange and black paint job! It looks like this as of now! Well before a couple of mods...

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Deleted the windshield screen, Barbie radio and roll bar Barbie cover. Shot the wheel covers/hub caps with 'flat aluminum' to match the steering wheel and break up the orange black. I coated the wheels with roll on truck bed coating and they are holding up well. It is only ran in the grass at this point!

I have added a pair of LED headlights and tail lights at this point. Along with a 12v/15w 6 tone siren on a momentary push button.

Headlights:
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Tails:
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Siren/Push Button:
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I have also installed a radio in the Barbie stereo bezel. Currently sourcing a small amp and speakers.

There are a few other mods planned which are:

*Wireless Kill Switch
*Battery Voltage Display
*Amber Front Markers/Fogs
*Back-up Alarm
*Reverse Lamps
*Interior Lamps
*Underbody Lighting
*SPST Keyed Ignition
*Motor Heatsinks(which ones)?

Probably more! This is my first build and he is currently driving it with the aid of of the bar across the steering wheel. More leverage and carrying over technique from his 12v Mini Quad.

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Thanks for looking. Any advice, tips, questions, insight... let me know!! These things are fun and already itching to start the Ninja? Quad.
Last edited by sall on Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:19 pm, edited 3 times in total.
#121146
I added the amber markers/fogs today to the lower front bumper flanking the license plate. I used some of the common 3W eagle eyes.

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Still waiting on some SPST switches to permanently wire everything. Any recommendation for LEDs in the stock sticker location?
Last edited by sall on Fri May 30, 2014 2:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#121382
Some updates...

Underbody Lighting:
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Switches installed in dash piece w/ radio.
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Headlamp Constant/Strobe Circuit(Astable 555):
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I also installed a back-up alarm. Still need to design, etch, populate a PCB for the wig-wags. Then I can do final wiring of the switches. Also wire two LED strips for footwell lighting. Nabbed some skateboard anti-skid adhesive material for floormats/traction.

Open to any comments/suggestions!!
Last edited by sall on Wed Jun 04, 2014 10:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
#121656
Not one single comment? Oh man!

Got everything wired up the other day and everything has been running smoothly since. Here is the back of the radio bezel and the brains of the whole lighting operation.

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Very short video of headlamps strobing and front markers/fog wig-wag/flip-flopping!


Cut and installed the 'floor mats' as well as added a piece of the material to each running board. Reverse lamps in now too accompany the back-up beeper. Will get some more pictures and video in due time!

Remaining items to be installed are the decals of his choice, battery volt meter and remote kill switch. :D Stereo wired in eventually. Then onto a Kawasaki Ninja Quad project :D
Last edited by sall on Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#121747
Thanks guys! The orange is Krylon Fusion Safety Orange. Aside wiring in the remote kill switch and key switch when they arrive and applying decals it will be finished! Radio later... It was was pretty fun for being my first power wheel to modify a bit. The little guy is taking to them quite them from the mini quad transition!
Last edited by sall on Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
#131865
Thanks. It was fun for my first PW modding experience.

This is about to get a 24V ESC and a lift kit. Slowest in the fleet right now. Then probably upgrade it to the microcontroller setup I made for the Gaucho instead of the 555 timers.
Last edited by sall on Thu May 07, 2015 12:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
#131867
I missed the video you had of the lights. What is your home-built strobe controller doing? How many lights is it connected to?
#131874
toycrusher wrote:I missed the video you had of the lights. What is your home-built strobe controller doing? How many lights is it connected to?


Video should be working now. It is nothing special. The strobing was on the headlights only. Wig/wag- Flip/flop on the park/fog and rear tails. Speed adjustable for each function via pots. Slowed down in these vids for the camera to capture. The uC controller is much better. For whatever reason many of my pics are missing from the couple builds I have done. Something must have happened to them when imgur switched from paying for pro to free. :?
Last edited by sall on Thu May 07, 2015 1:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#132134
Not too much excitement going on here.

Partial Stand-alone Harness:
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Accelerator Relocated for Brake @ Hall Effect Pedal Mounted:
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Hoping to etch and populate PCB for uC battery saver and light control module tomorrow. Then get everything wired back up. Waiting for lift kit and 14" tires to arrive!
#132287
How it sits as of today. Lift installed. Just waiting for a DPDT relay to arrive to get the ESC and microncontroller wired up.

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#135556
I have two 24V 500W YK31C ESCs and a pair of #7 21T gearboxes with BaneBots mounted to drop into this jeep for another upgrade. Will one '500W' ESC per BaneBot be sufficient or shall I still consider an ESC bypass?
#135567
Since electrical setups are your thing, I would recommend a "voltage comparator" monitoring the foot pedal designed to trigger the relays and bypass the ESCs when it sees 4.5v WOT.
#135568
ToyCrusher, I have the voltage comparator setup working on the bench. So it is not a hassle to add that feature. Just will take an extra DPDT relay per controller setup. Perhaps review what I cobbled together here a few minutes at a time today. No issue in connecting ESC pedal wires together? I saw you mentioned this in the 36v thread build. Just wanted to verify.

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Last edited by sall on Wed Oct 07, 2015 6:09 pm, edited 3 times in total.
#135629
Also, what amp relays would be recommended here with the banebots?
Last edited by sall on Sun Oct 11, 2015 7:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#135639
Sorry I missed it till now. Diagram looks perfect. Since the motors are independent, 30 amp relays should be more than enough. Once you get this ride up and running I would like to put your diagram in the faq
#135653
toycrusher wrote:Sorry I missed it till now. Diagram looks perfect. Since the motors are independent, 30 amp relays should be more than enough. Once you get this ride up and running I would like to put your diagram in the faq


No problem. I am in no hurry. Will have to order a few relays before I can get everything installed.

All of our ESC ride ons include the main/fail safe relay and 'optional' brake. The brakes do get used quite a bit. However, I'd like to do a 'floating' pedal for something different. Make it a bit more realistic and force use of the brake. Any ideas on how to fool ESC? I thought to take the 5v source and knock it down to whatever 0.5-1.0v with a pot and feed that into the ESC throttle circuit to keep it a slow crawl. Perhaps I will give that a try this evening.

One other idea. Considering 36v boost via momentary steering wheel push button only when ESC WOT is bypassed. I know it is doable. How will the banebots handle it? I'm not quite sure the factory lifted jeep is the best choice for it. :|
#135674
Variable braking? Hall effect pedal and PWM control of a big resistor, or just a 10 ga wire loop since the speed will be bled via the PWM...

Sounds like some serious reverse engineering :lol:

As far as 36v on Banebots, I've hear they cook at 30v. I only have one ride on Banebots and it's 24v direct (well, turbo-timed), the others are stock pw motors or 24v Peg motors pushed to 36v.
#135685
Well, what I mean is if the ride on is keyed on and either the shifter is not in N/P or the brake is not pressed the ride on will creep along. Fast enough where the brake pedal must be used or shifter in park/neutral for the ride on to be at complete stop. Slow enough to not cause any accidents if forgetting about it when turning on. Though failsafes can be built in such as the shifter position, etc.

I was able to simulate this with a 5k pot wired from the throttle 5v to the throttle return(labeled ZP on the controller.) I guess it is reverse of using the pot at the speed limiter. Will have have to fine tune the rolling speed once it is on the ground and rider inside.
#135686
sall wrote:Well, what I mean is if the ride on is keyed on and either the shifter is not in N/P or the brake is not pressed the ride on will creep along. Fast enough where the brake pedal must be used or shifter in park/neutral for the ride on to be at complete stop. Slow enough to not cause any accidents if forgetting about it when turning on. Though failsafes can be built in such as the shifter position, etc.

I was able to simulate this with a 5k pot wired from the throttle 5v to the throttle return(labeled ZP on the controller.) I guess it is reverse of using the pot at the speed limiter. Will have have to fine tune the rolling speed once it is on the ground and rider inside.


I gotcha, could you just rig the gas pedal travel so it never gets down to 0 volts (.5v, whatever "no throttle" is)?
#135687
Right. According to my DMM at 1.1V at the throttle return I start to get motor activity. So, I used the 5k pot to simulate that. I'll just have to see what voltage at the throttle return is the sweet spot for just rolling once the wheels are on the ground and his weight is in the rideon. Then set pot accordingly or swap out for static set resistor for each controller.

I figure to just find pins on the stock shifter switches that only have continuity when it is in the middle(stock low) position so that it also activates the brake relay. That position will be the park/neutral position.

So, forget the braking resistors and use a jumper wire?
Last edited by sall on Tue Oct 13, 2015 3:47 pm, edited 5 times in total.
#135690
So, forget the braking resistors and use a jumper wire?


Not exactly, a jumper wire will throw the brakes on solid. The resistor softens the braking force. If you can find the right sized resistor, you are good. I had trouble getting one that did much of anything so I just run a jumper wire but it's not exactly helpful for gearbox life :?
#135964
Just to verify with toycrusher, connecting the ESC throttle wires in parallels works with no ill effects?

Build is progressing...

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Last edited by sall on Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
#135969
sall wrote:Just to verify with toycrusher, connecting the ESC throttle wires in parallels works with no ill effects?

Build is progressing...

Image


I had the same doubts, but it works. I think it's because it's a hall effect sensor. If the throttle was a pot instead there might be some distortion in resistance readings
#135970
Yes, the parallel throttle is not a problem. I confirmed that with TNC scooters a few years back. The one issue that I have noticed from personal experience is that sometimes the controllers still do not sync perfectly. One may start sooner and apply more power causing higher load on that motor.
#135971
taz11 wrote:Yes, the parallel throttle is not a problem. I confirmed that with TNC scooters a few years back. The one issue that I have noticed from personal experience is that sometimes the controllers still do not sync perfectly. One may start sooner and apply more power causing higher load on that motor.


As I think about it, I'm probably experiencing the same issue. My Superpower occasionally spins out one tire in grass or, unfortunately, slips a tooth when on pavement. It does lift the front end when my son hits the gas hard so that probably doesn't help out the gearbox. :?
#135972
That was a concern I had when you said you were using dual controllers in your build crusher if you remember. The controllers seem to very well in tune with each other when I tested some things on the bench.
#135974
I'm thinking you could put a pot inline between the pedal and each controller. Dial down one or the other to better sync them.
#135975
taz11 wrote:I'm thinking you could put a pot inline between the pedal and each controller. Dial down one or the other to better sync them.


Might work. It doesn't seem to be consistent enough or maybe I can't keep track of which side spins out. :? I honestly thought I had a connection issue that I just couldn't find. :x
#135979
Mine is consistently the same controller. I am not sure if it is the controller or the fact that one motor spins backwards and requires more juice to overcome the timing difference.
#135981
Yeah you can use a pot on the throttle connections for many different purposes. I will do some testing when I get the chance. I still need to do some modifications to each controller and get rid of some clutter from them.
#136026
As for the 'coast' setting without being on throttle does something around 4v to the motors sound right? On a 12v build low is in a perfect situation 6v to each motor. That is supposedly 2mph. So, a good voltage to the motors for a slow crawl about 4v?
Last edited by sall on Sat Oct 24, 2015 3:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#136027
sall wrote:As for the 'coast' setting without being on throttle does something around 4v to the motors sound right? On a 12v build low is in a perfect situation 6v to each motor. That is supposedly 2mph. So, a good voltage to the motors for a slow crawl about 4v?


I think getting it to start moving may be the issue. Perhaps you can program it to "blip" 6v+ for a 1/2 second to get it moving before dropping down to a 3-4v setting?
#136030
I will just drill hole in each ESC enclosure and mount a pot. Dial each motor accordingly and see what works... or doesn't work.
#136031
(Cue space exploration music) "boldly going where no modder has gone before..." :D :lol:
#136232
Here is how I did the 'floating' pedal. I don't know what to call it? Only showing one ESC but simply parallel the three pedal wires. I used the diode to prevent backfeed to the pedal. I do not know how sensitive they are. So there is a 0.3V voltage drop. across the diode. This just means the pedal won't max out the ESC, but the bypass will kick in anyways. Again this untested as of now other than success on the bench.

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R1: 5k Pot
D1: 1N4148
Last edited by sall on Sun Nov 01, 2015 7:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#136293
Will throw up a diagram of the FWD, Park/Neutral, RVS shifter configuration when I get a chance.


I am wondering if 10 gauge OFC main wiring is enough for this setup. I do have some larger wire but connecting to the battery is the issue. Likely directly soldering to battery tabs.
Last edited by sall on Wed Nov 04, 2015 2:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#136294
sall wrote:Will throw up a diagram of the FWD, Park/Neutral, RVS shifter configuration when I get a chance.


I am wondering if 10 gauge OFC main wiring is enough for this setup. I do have some larger wire but connecting to the battery is the issue. Likely directly soldering to battery tabs.


10 Gauge wire at 24v, pushing 40 amps is good for up to about 12' length. You won't have any problems.
#136341
Shifter Diagram.

Shifter (2).png


A good byproduct of this setup is that when going from forward to reverse the motors will always be braked. Even if only for a split second.
Last edited by sall on Sat Nov 07, 2015 7:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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