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User avatar
By sall
#122523
I picked up this Peg-Perego Apache a couple of weeks ago. The little man spotted it before I did. We ended up nabbing it for $5 and had delivered for free! Right now it is too big for him really. He is 27 months old and just over 30 pounds. I want to take my time building this one as he has three other ride ones that fit him well at the moment and have some growing room as well. Here are few pictures as it looked once it was at it's new home.

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From what I can tell it is missing side view mirrors, driver side running board, roll bar lights, hood latches, belts and a needs a new shifter boot. Most of which I have coming from fellow member Taz very soon.

I let the little one drive it after I cleaned switch and contacts on reverse switch. He didn't quite understand how to keep the vehicle in reverse. A few days later I heard the gearboxes start clicking. The vehicle needs torn down and thoroughly cleaned. So, I tore into it but only after finishing up Kawasaki Ninja Quad. Upon investigation I found the middle 10-46 gear was missing a tooth. Maybe he stripped by slamming into forward from reverse or maybe it's really why the Apache was outside a thrift store we happened to walk by?

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So, Taz had the gear I needed as well. However, the broken gear had me exploring other options and builds from fellow members in the past. I have a good idea of what I would like to do with this little Apache.

    - Decal Removal - (Replacement Options?)
    - Attempt Color Restoration with Heatgun - If not Full Prep & Paint
    - 24V ESC Conversion
    - Gaucho Motors/Gearboxes - (Motor Upgrade?)
    - Gaucho Rear Shocks - (Other Substitutes?)
    - Other Gaucho Trim & Accessories
    - Full LED Lighting
    - 1.5" Lift

Maybe some other things thrown in potentially. Who knows? I want to take my time on this build to do it as clean and proper as possible. He has plenty of room to grow into it so I have time.

I have purchased the 24V ESC conversion from eBay. It arrived this morning two days later. I went with the plastic throttle pedal.

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I have read a little bit about getting the Gaucho gearboxes into the Apache. So far I have read using the Gaucho rear pan and mounting the gearboxes to the outside of the pan and using an extended rear axle. I am uncertain why with little modification the Gaucho gearboxes cannot be fit into the Gaucho rear pan and mount inside as the factory gearboxes did? Does anyone have any insight on that?

Hopefully this build progresses nicely. Look forward to hearing opinions and suggestions for the build. I am certain I will have some questions along the way! Thanks!

6-26-14: Went ahead with the gearbox/motor upgrade. Ordered a pair of new Gaucho gearboxes with motors from tigerimports.
Last edited by sall on Sun Nov 02, 2014 6:34 pm, edited 8 times in total.
User avatar
By sall
#122692
I should be receiving the packages of parts from Taz and TigerImports tomorrow. Hoping to get some free time to 'play' around with mounting of the Gaucho gearboxes in Apache rear pan.

I broke down the vehicle this afternoon. These Peg-Peregos are certainly better built than the PW IMO. Although my PW experience is limited to a unibody jeep and kawasaki quad that are quite old. I removed decals and thoroughly cleaned everything.

While breaking the vehicle down I was pondering paint schemes. I am thinking gloss black body with yellow seats, dash and wheel covers. With some red accent thrown in potentially.
User avatar
By sall
#122716
Found a few minutes tonight to get the Gaucho gearboxes mounted in the Apache rear pan. Some slight modification required to get the gearboxes to sit flush on the inside of the pan. Must cutoff the screw mounting post flush to gearbox cover. Other than that just drilling new mount holes in the rear pan to fasten gearboxes down. Just a little patience accuracy! The pan just screams Peg wanted to use these gearboxes in the Apache IMO.

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User avatar
By sall
#123071
I have managed to get a little bit finished on this project.

- Repaired Shifter Mechanism with Roll Pins
- Wired ESC Relays & Some of Harness
- New Red Vinyl for Shifter Boot

I decided I would keep the paint scheme true to the original Apache. So, will use Krylon Fusion Gloss Navy, Gloss Sun Beam and Gloss Red Pepper. Clearcoat yet to be decided. Leaving the paint scheme the same just refreshing it. Instead of Apache stickers I will grab two of the red Gaucho side emblems hopefully.

Just need a few evenings to prep well for paint. Then a nice day to lay it down.
User avatar
By sall
#123079
Old Nasty Shifter Boot:
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New vs Old:
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New:
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New vinyl was very cheap and likely have enough to make several more if needed.
User avatar
By sall
#123627
Made some great progress on the new wiring harness. The weather is not cooperating for paint and I haven't finished prepping yet. So continues work on the harness. As of this point it is pending completion, but not sure how I want to run the lighting. I would like to include the lighting wiring in the main harness. At least the wiring to the tail lamps.

As for the tail lamp I am thinking of ditching the factory tail light assemblies and adding something different. Switching them to all red/orange(I am not a fan of amber rear signals). Using a PWM to dim the tail lamp function and full brightness when braking.

Will post a picture or two of the harness when I get the chance!
User avatar
By sall
#123636
Here is the harness as it sits right now.

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Brake Resistor pack not pictured. Nor motor inputs to relays. Red and black wires to left in first picture will be ran to barrier strips. The barrier strip will be fed from the pilot light output and battery ground. I believe I will be using a 24v to 12v step-down to power relay coil and lighting vs 24v. Hall effect pedal wiring/lighting will be ran through this harness as well.

I decided to alter the ESC diagram a bit as well. Instead of the brake and reverse switches providing a high to switch the relay I am using a low to switch the relays.

Since he was having a slight issue with Peg-Perego reverse operation I also changed that function. I did not include low speed relay as it is redundant with variable throttle. So, straight up is forward and pulled back is now reverse. Instead of holding the shifter forward to reverse. Easily changed when I feel he can master that. I don't want stripped gears right off the bat!
Last edited by sall on Mon Jul 14, 2014 4:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#123769
great build, very clean and well thought out. Keep it up!!
User avatar
By sall
#123882
jonesee wrote:great build, very clean and well thought out. Keep it up!!


Thanks! :) Hopefully keep it that way! I am trying to incorporate most everything and just have it ready to be wired up after the paint is finished. I cannot stand a rats nest! All connections are uninsulated, crimped, soldered and protected with heatshrink.

Not much new going on. I have directly soldered 4" lengths of 10awg directly to the motors and terminated with a butt connector. Will swap the quick connects with butt connectors on the main harness. This should make it easy to slice heatshrink and replace motors if necessary. I have my eye on the banebot motors. However, I have heard these Gaucho motors are pretty stout themselves.

Received two NEW Gaucho Super Power side emblems from Taz. They are red but will hit them with Krylon Red I chose to match. Should look great up against navy blue body!

Have been pondering the use of a microcontroller to control all of the vehicles lighting. Hopefully, I can make that happen! :? I have high aspirations for that!
User avatar
By sall
#123910
Yawn. Soldered motor leads... Could not find small quantity of 12-10 - 0.187 female quick connects for a decent price. This is better solution anyways IMO. Might add some artic alumina adhesive to keep the leads from bending at the motor.

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Decided to modify the rear bumper for new lighting. I really did not like the Apache/Gaucho rear lighting. I removed the rim/border that the factory tail lamp lenses sat in. This way the new assemblies have a flat surface to sit on.

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Not quite sure of exact placement of new assemblies yet. I like these assemblies as they have low consumption, high visibility and also include reflector prism built in.

Small Update:

This evening I was able to get the ignition switch mounted inside the factory Apache Key hole assembly. It came out really clean. Also brainstormed what else will go on the dash cluster. I do already have a digital volt meter. Thinking of use some non-lit rocker switches and having LEDs illumunate on the dash. An LED for when ignition is ON and maybe another if I decide on installing a kill switch.

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Decided to clean up the controller wiring a bit as well. To avoid any confusion or accidents I snipped the connectors from the Brake Trigger and Brake Output wires. Double heatshrunk them for isolation and then tucked them away in the controller enclosure. Certainly makes a bit less mess. The cleaner the better!

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Just little things but they all add up!
Last edited by sall on Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:50 pm, edited 5 times in total.
User avatar
By sall
#124021
Basically just waiting for some parts/materials to roll in. Waiting for a good day or two to paint as well.

Used a couple barrier strips to make pseudo distribution blocks.

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Last edited by sall on Sun Jul 20, 2014 4:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By wesleyb82
#124062
jonesee wrote:great build, very clean and well thought out. Keep it up!!


My thoughts exactly, nice work
User avatar
By sall
#124079
wesleyb82 wrote:
jonesee wrote:great build, very clean and well thought out. Keep it up!!


My thoughts exactly, nice work


Thanks! He has plenty of room to grow in to this ride on. So, I would like to do it once and do it as cleanly as possible.

I found a pair of Lumiled Superflux 30 LED arrays I had used for side markers on my vehicle that are no longer in service. These are top notch auto grade LEDs. Here is the datasheet for those curious. They just so happened to fit in the Apache front park lamp assemblies with some slight trimming! They look and function great!

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I also received the 24v to 12v stepdown...
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Last edited by sall on Tue Jul 22, 2014 7:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By sall
#124091
Brainstormed a bit last night on roll bar lighting. I wanted to match the front park lamps, but decided it would take way too many of amber superflux LEDs. Decided to use four 1W Cree XP-G Amber LEDs on 20mm star base with a 35mm aluminum heatsink and driven by a 12v 4-7 1W driver. The cost came to about $15. Which is not too bad for some legit lighting.

I have several hundred Lumiled Superflux red-orange LEDs that I will be using to retrofit the new tail light assemblies with as well. I believe 28 a piece per assembly. While it may seem overkill to use these quality components I have most of them on hand but the roll bar stuff. So it's a win win. High visibility for the ride on and the cargo within!
User avatar
By sall
#124197
Finished the tail lamps. Ended up using 32 of the Lumiled Superflux LEDs. These assemblies normally come with two SMD LED.

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Very satisfied with results! Those are break lamp intensity pictures. Although they washed the camera out. Kind of want to do a small flush mount side marker on the rear bumper and where the super guacho has the vent grills. Thoughts?

I also hit the body again wetsanding with 400 grit. Not sure if I will finish with 600 or leave it is as before paint.
Last edited by sall on Wed Jul 23, 2014 8:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#124206
WOW! you could say that those will be seen even in complete fog! looking good....
User avatar
By sall
#124225
jonesee wrote:WOW! you could say that those will be seen even in complete fog! looking good....


Haha yeah as tail lamps they will be dimmed via PWM. Just brake lamp intensity in those pics. I can always dim it down if I feel necessary.
User avatar
By sall
#124356
A little more dash work. Flush mounted 5mm LED bezels/holders. These will be for shift indicator FWD & RVS. As well winch operation. The left side of the dash will get 3mm flush mount LED bezels/holder. The 3mm LEDs will be for lighting indicators such as Park Ignition ON, KILL, Headlamps and Emergency.

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Will also place two digital volt meters in the dash. One for drive voltage and one for accessory voltage.
User avatar
By sall
#124749
I have the majority of the wiring on the floor pan complete. This consists of wiring for the charging port, tail/brake lamps, reverse lamps and back-up alarm. Also modded the pedal plate so the hall effect pedal will sit flush.

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I have the other 3mm LED bezel/holders installed in the dash as well. In need of a PW pedal and switch assembly to complete the brake circuit. Coming along slowly...
Last edited by sall on Sun Aug 03, 2014 12:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By sall
#124800
I have been debating and have decided to run a pair 12v 18Ah batteries in series for the 24v. I am hoping he will be able to get a decent runtime with them.

As for lighting I will be using a microcontroller to handle everything. The setup will have a few inputs for park lamps, brakes, headlamps, emergency and reverse. There will be outputs for Headlamps, Front L&R Park Lamps, Rear L&R tail lamps(dual intensity) and reverse lights. The microcontroller will timeout and shut everything down to prevent battery drain if no inputs are switched, gear selector is not moved, brakes pressed, etc after three minutes(for intital testing). The emergency stobing and wig-wag/flip-flop will be controlled by the uC as well. Headlamps, Brakes and reverse lamps will always over-ride the emergency lighting.
User avatar
By sall
#124854
Some roll bar lighting progress. Using four Cree XP-E 1W LEDs and a bucktoot 350mA constant current driver. The 1W heatsinks are epoxied to the lamp housing. I used a 1/16" ABS sheet to make a couple beauty panels and covered them in chrome vinyl for aesthetics. I have not done any of the soldering/wiring on them yet.

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Might stick a piece of the chrome vinyl behind the heatink on the assembly to get rid of the darker portion. It may help a bit. Otherwise they turned out very nice IMO! :)
Last edited by sall on Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By sall
#124973
CJB wrote:I LOVE all the work you've done with the lights. Excellent job!


Thanks! Haha you should see my car. It's all custom lighting!

I made some progress today on dry run mounting. Once a few more things are connected will do a test phase of the main harness.

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Still have some dash work to do and some lighting stuff to figure out but I am very happy with the results so far! Comments/suggestions/criticisms always welcome! :D
Last edited by sall on Thu Aug 07, 2014 7:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By sall
#125005
Added governer hidden under battery panel on fake engine. Not sure if he will need it or not yet but it's there in case. :| Will be replacing screws with small bolts/nuts to get rid of sharp points.

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Some more dash work. Need to add switches still...

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EDIT:

Made sure everything was buttoned down tonight and did an intitial test fire. Turned key and heard controller turn on. Slowly pressed pedal and motors/gearboxes started to turn faster and faster... probably will need that governer after all... :D Now do a dry run test for lighting in next couple of days hopefully.
Last edited by sall on Fri Aug 08, 2014 8:35 pm, edited 3 times in total.
User avatar
By sall
#125035
ccsurep wrote:Nice build, what kind of radio is that in the dash? looks pretty slick.


Thanks! The headunit can be found here. Pretty nifty little unit. I have seen them used in one or two builds here before. I have one installed in the safety orange jeep as well.
By hkayssi
#125058
sall wrote:
ccsurep wrote:Nice build, what kind of radio is that in the dash? looks pretty slick.


Thanks! The headunit can be found here. Pretty nifty little unit. I have seen them used in one or two builds here before. I have one installed in the safety orange jeep as well.


Nice! 8-)
How did you wire it? What did you use for speakers?
By ccsurep
#125072
hkayssi wrote:
sall wrote:
ccsurep wrote:Nice build, what kind of radio is that in the dash? looks pretty slick.


Thanks! The headunit can be found here. Pretty nifty little unit. I have seen them used in one or two builds here before. I have one installed in the safety orange jeep as well.


Nice! 8-)
How did you wire it? What did you use for speakers?


Same question.... The price is good also. :D
User avatar
By sall
#125084
hkayssi wrote:Nice! 8-)
How did you wire it? What did you use for speakers?



ccsurep wrote:Same question.... The price is good also. :D


Thanks! The components make for a sub $20 stereo. I am using a mini amp and a pair of 3W speakers.

Mini Amplifier
50mm 3W Speakers

I'll get some pictures of wiring when it is installed on this ride on!
By hkayssi
#125089
sall wrote:
hkayssi wrote:Nice! 8-)
How did you wire it? What did you use for speakers?



ccsurep wrote:Same question.... The price is good also. :D


Thanks! The components make for a sub $20 stereo. I am using a mini amp and a pair of 3W speakers.

Mini Amplifier
50mm 3W Speakers

I'll get some pictures of wiring when it is installed on this ride on!


Hmmmm, free shipping to Canada! This is a first! :D
I may have to get this installed; I'll wait for your installation pics :)
User avatar
By sall
#125099
hkayssi wrote:
Hmmmm, free shipping to Canada! This is a first! :D
I may have to get this installed; I'll wait for your installation pics :)


Depending on how fast the boat is... might be three weeks or so. Just ordered the amplifier/speakers on Friday. They have all the items in US warehouse but minimum $25 order. If ordering all the stuff at once from US site plus something else for $5 + you can get it before I do this time around haha.
User avatar
By sall
#125492
I have the coding for the battery saver/lighting controller module completed(tentative but 100%). The MCU will control the entire ride-on basically. Just as a vehicle's PCM/ECM does.

Here is a diagram of the ESC Power and Ignition Circuit(MCU out simplified).

ESC-Power-Ignition (1).png


With igniton key switch(SW1) is 'on' the MCU is grounded and turned on. The Power and Ignition Output grounds the DPDT relay coil and closes both the power and ignition circuits allowing the ESC to power on. Once the MCU times out from no activity on any inputs(more on that later when I get to the lighting diagram/aux) ground is removed from the DPDT relay and the ESC power and ignition circuits open. ESC powers off until MCU comes out of deep sleep. I have it set up so any input can wake up the MCU as of now. I may change that though. According to my PSU when the MCU is asleep current draw for the the entire ride on will be about 3mA or less.
Last edited by sall on Sun Aug 17, 2014 11:06 am, edited 3 times in total.
User avatar
By sall
#125579
I had a few minutes to expand on the diagrams for reference. I think eveything is accurate(less simplified MCU outs). If you see something ascew let me know! :?

MCU PINOUT/MAIN POWER & IGNITION
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S1 - SPST Ignition Key Switch
S2 - Park/Tail Lamp Switch
S3 - Brake Switch(Pedal)
S4 - Reverse Switch(Shifter)
S5 - HeadLamps Switch
S6 - Emergency Switch

P2.0 - Left Tail Lamp
P2.1 - Right Tail Lamp
P2.2 - Left Reverse Lamp
P2.3 - Right Reverse Lamp
P2.4 - Headlamps
P2.5 - ESC Power/Ignition Relay Trigger
P2.6 - Left Park Lamp
P2.7 - Right Park Lamp



SHIFTER/MOTOR RELAYS:
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S1 - 'Park'/Reset Switch(Factory Apache Reverse Switch in Shifter Assmebly)
S2 - Reverse Switch (Factory Apache Drive Switch in Shifter Assembly)
S3 - Brake Pedal Switch

RY1 - Motor Reverse Relay
RY2 - Motor Brake Relay
Last edited by sall on Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:50 pm, edited 7 times in total.
User avatar
By sall
#125589
toycrusher wrote:Looks like fun! :D


Let's hope so! Here is a short crappy video for example of MCU lighting functions on the breadboard. Of course this is only showing one half of the lighting outputs. Left or right side. It's your pick haha. :lol:

Last edited by sall on Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:30 pm, edited 3 times in total.
User avatar
By sall
#125700
Managed to design/etch and populate the controller PCB. Just need to solder the output wires on to the board. Will post some pictures later this evening. It works great. Inactivity timer is set to five minutes. Not sure if I will alter that or not. It is easily changed anyways.

Also, thanks to toycrusher, I am considering adding a 'NOS'(or shall we call it; power) button to bypass the ESC for full direct power to the motors. I'm not sure what else... yet... :roll: :lol:

Anyone using one of these or similar?

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Auto-Motorc ... 62&vxp=mtr
Last edited by sall on Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By sall
#125705
CJB wrote:I've got something similar in the PD Escalade.

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=15553


Thanks! I think I will go with this one and mount the speaker under the seat.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-Truck- ... 01&vxp=mtr


I will solder the output wires to the controller PCB and gave it a home in a spare enclosure I had laying around. I will integrate a 9 pin connector for the outputs(exiting the right side in pic) into the enclosure. The inputs(out the bottom in pic) will go directly to SPST switches which will all be tied to ground.

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Also drilled the holes for the four switches. Dash looks very nice! Pretty much completed I would say.
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Last edited by sall on Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:39 pm, edited 4 times in total.
User avatar
By sall
#125784
iDz Bowl wrote:Very nice, I'm watching this one come together!


Thanks! A few more goodies on the way. Headlamps, reverse alarm and the siren/loudspeaker.

I wanted to do something custom for the headlamps and have actual low and high beam. There just is not enough room available to do so. So I went with some lamps similar to my orange jeep build but instead of four LEDs these have nine LEDs in them. At least they can be aimed down so the flood pattern does not blind people.

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/311023018288?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

A simple reverse alarm:
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/161168575708?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

Siren/Loudspeaker:
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-Truck- ... 01&vxp=mtr

I have everything stripped down again and only a few more parts need prepped before paint. :)
Last edited by sall on Sun Aug 24, 2014 9:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By sall
#125844
Paint scheme:

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Plus some black accents. Maybe chrome wheels?
Last edited by sall on Mon Aug 25, 2014 11:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By sall
#125995
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Some clear coat overspray that will be under the seat area but it will come off anyways when wetsanded and polished. I like the color.

I also hit the wheel covers with some duplicolor silver wheel paint. They came out nice as well

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User avatar
By sall
#126060
Wetsanded, compounded, polished and waxed the hood. Hopefully the body turns out just as well. Wish I had a mini DA mine is just too big for PW with 6" pads! :cry:

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Last edited by sall on Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By toycrusher
#126062
That's looking sharp! My kids are waaay too rough with these things so I don't go so far on the finish work (makes me feel better about being lazy... :lol: :roll: )
By hkayssi
#126063
Nice results :D
For the next projects don't wax for at least 40 days. The wax will prevent the rest of volatile compounds from evaporating and that will cause the paint to fail. Wet sanding, and polishing are perfect.
User avatar
By sall
#126064
Well, this just might be the last battery powered ride on build before he moves on to something gas powered in the future. :shock: I put this much into it so far might as well make it shine! I haven't done finish work on any of the others though, but they still look good.

It was detail wax to see a final product, but it was actually removed shortly after this picture as I found a spot I wasn't happy with. Had to go back over it :roll: stopped with the compound last night. I will keep that in mind. Hoping to get the body finished up tomorrow before a couple game I would like to watch come on! Maybe burn some midnight oil.

Good to see some feedback though. I appreciate the kind words! The thread has been relatively quiet. Always looking for ideas/suggestions! :D
Last edited by sall on Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:23 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By sall
#126114
Well, had some time today to finish up the paint work on the body. Wetsanded 1500/2000 then compounded and polished! I am very happy with the results. :)

Body:
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With Hood and Rollbar:
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The mirrors and fake shock covers still need sprayed. I am still brainstorming on the winch. I was planning to use the original Apache gearbox for the winch. However, in a 24v system that is going to pull pretty fast. A stepdown won't provide enough amperage. Will using the winch tied to one of the 12v batteries really cause that much of an imbalance between the batteries to cause charging and longevity issues? Any suggestions? A 24v peg motor?
User avatar
By sall
#126236
Had a few minutes this evening. Here is how she sits now.

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Step guards and floor mats are made from the Harbor Freight Self-Adhesive Rubber Safety Step Mats. Considering putting a piece on the body right above the step gaurds as well? Also inserted the new Gaucho side emblems and installed the custom superflux PCB front park assemblies and ran the wiring for them. Cut a piece of the same red vinyl I used recovering the shifter boot to go under the grille.

Slowly moving along... :D
User avatar
By sall
#126263
Mounted a PW pedal for use as a brake pedal this morning. Used the spot available in the Apache/Gaucho floor pan. Basically perfectly sized width wise for the PW pedal switch. Then made a template from an existing PW pedal mount. Matched up and traced on pedal plate. Cut with exacto knife and slightly modified the pan area with dremel. Removed after testing and hope to paint the pedal plate this evening.

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Last edited by sall on Thu Sep 04, 2014 1:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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