Gruber
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M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
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User avatar
By CJB
#15223
Just getting the thread set up here. I'm going to dive into this one this weekend. Using one from my Twin Escalade Haul.

End result should be something like this...
Image

Plans include:
    Headlights/tail lights/fog lights
    Marker lights/turn signals
    12v w/6v CJB NOS (might as well use my own design finally)
    Possible underglow
    EL-wire dash glow (ala DW)
    floor mats
    and maybe upholstery

Who knows... I might even mount a sub in there somewhere.

Paint:
    Off-white (or maybe pearl) base coat
    Sparkles (everything MUST have sparkles I guess)
    Clear (maybe)

I'll be using the one that already has the TV and speakers/amp in it. I'll most likely end up flipping the other one after a quick paint job with a close color match. I think the color I used on the brute force will be close.

Image

Since I'm completely changing colors, I'll need to get some new badges and emblems done up. Maybe for the badges I'll just use those self-adhesive chrome letters and numbers - 18V, EXT...
Last edited by CJB on Mon Aug 08, 2016 7:45 am, edited 6 times in total.
User avatar
By taz11
#15225
I think you might need to lower it too...............might be a cool idea ;) Just thinking outloud.
User avatar
By taz11
#15227
CJB wrote:
taz11 wrote:I think you might need to lower it too...............might be a cool idea ;) Just thinking outloud.


Good call. I'll look into that.


Me too......It's been a long time since I looked under my Esc. I'd love to put in my 2 cents.
User avatar
By hypo21
#15270
I wouldnt mind hearing those cents... I like that Idea. I picked one of these up from Taz and was thinking of at least painting and Lighting it. I have a Pearl white real one and woudl liek to try to match the color, so I am interested to see how this turns out CJB

I like where you are going so far...
User avatar
By CJB
#15336
Racer X wrote:I am most interested in seeing what you need to do to get your pearl white color to come out


Yeah... me too. :?

Got it all stripped down last night and did some lighting mock-ups.
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Not sure how easy it'd be to lower it. Looks like a LOT of fab work. I'm an electrical guy - not a body guy. :?
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Today, I plan on getting out the pressure washer for the body tub and getting everything ready for primer. I haven't been able to find an iridescent pearl color in a spray can (or any other can for that matter) so I may have to go to some sort of specialty automotive shop for it. There's a PPG place by my work. Maybe they'd be able to help. Then I'll have to go to HF and get one of those gravity feed spray guns on sale.
User avatar
By taz11
#15346
I've been pondering this...... I did notice that if you drop the front more than 1 1/2 inches you will have tire conflicts with the door hinge and floorboards.

The rear is easy to do.
User avatar
By taz11
#15348
Here is the rough idea.

CJB lower idea escl.JPG
CJB lower idea escl.JPG (33.94 KiB) Viewed 16377 times


Stack up some plywood strips to the desired hight, notch one to fit the axle, and squeeze it all together with some long bolts. The gearbox should sit in on the top one. (you might have to trim it down slightly). I would use some fender washers on the bottom of the bolts.


The easiest way for the front would be dropped spindles. I forgot to check last night to see if there is enough clearance on the back of the wheel for that.
Last edited by taz11 on Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:33 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#15357
taz11 wrote:Here is the rough idea.

CJB lower idea escl.JPG


Stack up some plywood strips to the desired hight, notch one to fit the axle, and squeeze it all together with some long bolts. The gearbox should sit in on the top one. (you might have to trim it down slightly). I would use some fender washers on the bottom of the bolts.


The easiest way for the front would be dropped spindles. I forgot to check last night to see if there is enough clearance on the back of the wheel for that.



Pretty close to what I was thinking. My plan (sorry, no pic assistance) was to cut out the rear axel tub of a scrapped Escalade that I have laying around. I would trim it down so that all I have left is the very bottom where the axel goes through and the side walls where the gear boxes sit. Risers made of wood blocks would be set down inside the rear tub of the project. To get rid of the gap between the tires and the fenders you would need to drop the back 2.5 inches so 2.5 inch blocks would be used, maybe less depending on tire clearance. Scrapper tub would be placed on top of the blocks and bolted down. Use the gearbox template that is present in the scrapper tub to cut out new gearbox holes higher up in the project tub.

Custom made dropped spindles are the easiest way to go for the front. Any weld shop should be able to do it pretty cheap. You may need to trim the white steering knuckle a little; shave it back maybe a 1/4-1/2 inch.

Hopefully this made sense.
User avatar
By hypo21
#15358
Racer X wrote:I am most interested in seeing what you need to do to get your pearl white color to come out. I will stay tuned.

Racer X


ha ha... Me too.. I was hoping Defensive may have some ideas as I have no clue. Not really there yet, need to finish the Gaucho project first... but that may be next.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#15360
hypo21 wrote:
Racer X wrote:I am most interested in seeing what you need to do to get your pearl white color to come out. I will stay tuned.

Racer X


ha ha... Me too.. I was hoping Defensive may have some ideas as I have no clue. Not really there yet, need to finish the Gaucho project first... but that may be next.


I do but it would require a detail gun, which you can get a Kolbalt for $40 at Lowes, and a small bottle of water based airbrush paint, $6. Don't know how to get it done just yet without a spray gun. I know there is a pearl spray paint but it looks TOO pearly.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#15371
hypo21 wrote:I actually do have an automotive spray gun and compressor. but not sure on the cost of paint vs. paint cans.


Always do a test panel first before trying a new paint technique

I recommend using an automotive detail gun which is smaller than a full size spray gun. I prefer a gravity feed gun. Lowes had a two gun set, full size and detail, on their website for about $60. Not bad for a hobby set.

This combo will get it done. Available at any art store that sells airbrush supplies or you can find it easily online and it may be cheaper. Prices reflect an art supply store.

Image

Rule of thumb, just say $6 per bottle. The two bigger bottles, 4011 Reducer and Transparent Base, are 4 fl. oz. and the smaller one, Iridescent Pearl (fine), is 1 fl. oz. You should be able to pearl the whole vehicle with these but I always suggest making more than you need so you don't run out before doing the whole vehicle; it will be hard to make the exact same mixture twice and you will have extra for a later project.

Mix 1 part Reducer to 2 parts Transparent Base to start. Add more Reducer if needed. Add a good squirt of the Iridescent Pearl to the Transparent Base mix. Don't over do the pearl because you can always add more cooats to get the desired amount of pearl.

Lay down your white base coat as normal. I always suggest a flat base coat. Allow the base coat to set up for about 20 minutes. You can either clear coat your base coat now then wet sand or just move onto the next step. If I was doing it then I would clear and wet sand now.

Using the automotive spray gun set up to 25-30 psi, dust a coat of your pearl mixture over the entire car. Dusting is different from doing a coat. You should be considerably further (12 inches or so) from the surface of the car and moving faster, kind of flicking your wrist side to side as you move down the panel. The goal is to avoid concentrated spots of pearl or tiger striping. Create a fog and let it settle on the car. This should set up really fast, maybe a couple of minutes.

If more of a pearl affect is desired, repeat the last step until satisfied. It's best to be able to take the car outside to see it in true daylight, sun light if possible, to determine if it is enough pearl. Use a heat gun to heat set the pearl layer.

Clear as normal. Be sure that you still fall within the re coat windows before clearing.

Using this method keeps you in control of how much pearl affect you end up with. This can be used on any color and even used with masking to create ghost images, such as flames.

Edit- These are water based paints so they are super easy to work with and no real smell to deal with. I airbrush with these in my dining room and clean the airbrush at the sink. Windex is the best way to clean up these paints but it eats away at the chrome in your spray guns over time.
Last edited by DefensiveWound on Fri Apr 01, 2011 11:59 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By Racer X
#15382
So did you catch all of that CJB?

Take good notes, and I will see how it turns out. I think what DefensiveWound is saying makes sense and sounds like a solid approach (and therefore I hope it is the one you are going to adopt -- would love to be able to find out the pitfalls on someone else's dime :-) ).

Racer X
Last edited by Racer X on Fri Apr 01, 2011 11:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By taz11
#15383
Do you guys want me to split this topic? Sounds like some good paint info. It might deserve it's own thread.
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#15387
taz11 wrote:Do you guys want me to split this topic? Sounds like some good paint info. It might deserve it's own thread.



Hypo21 just posted a thread in Pimp it Out and I just mentioned that it should be moved to Paint and Body. Same content but with more info.
User avatar
By taz11
#15401
Cool....CJB, say the word and I'll remove some "jacking" from this thread.
User avatar
By SigEp
#15416
CJB wrote:
Racer X wrote:So did you catch all of that CJB?



I was at the store buying Arctic White, Clear, and a sparkle top coat while you guys were discussing this. :lol:


Can't wait to see the paint job. I'm planning to do a similar paint job on our Police Tot Rod. Figured it would be a "flashy" police car. I'm planning to test with Krylon Fusion Textured Shimmer in White this weekend. I'm going to apply it similar to DefensiveWound's mustang.
By solo1
#15423
Anyone ever thought about using something like linear actuators to bag a pw with? Would probably be a pain in the butt to install them but you could raise it up and down off a switch and remote.
User avatar
By SigEp
#15538
SigEp wrote:
CJB wrote:
Racer X wrote:So did you catch all of that CJB?



I was at the store buying Arctic White, Clear, and a sparkle top coat while you guys were discussing this. :lol:


Can't wait to see the paint job. I'm planning to do a similar paint job on our Police Tot Rod. Figured it would be a "flashy" police car. I'm planning to test with Krylon Fusion Textured Shimmer in White this weekend. I'm going to apply it similar to DefensiveWound's mustang.


Don't use Krylon Fusion Textured Shimmer in White. It turns out cream colored. I had luck with the following:

I sprayed with Krylon Fusion Gloss White, then did a light dusting with Krylon Silver Glitter Spray. I followed it up with 3 coats of Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel. Turned out really nice. You don't see the glitter except up close and it definitely ads sprarkle to the paint in the sun.
User avatar
By CJB
#15576
Okay. She's pretty much done in the paint dept. I used rustoleum plastic primer, then Duplicolor Arctic white and clear with a 'clear effects' glitter coat that doesn't really do anything unless you're in the sun. :?

Still needs some touch-ups, and I totally missed a huge spot that isn't hidden by the seat. Other than that, I'm pretty happy with it.
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User avatar
By Racer X
#15644
I really like the white too. I am suprised you sprayed clear on it (I thought you were done with clear forever [smile]). I worry about going in such a strong contrasting color when it gets scraped up (the other color screams through on me). My yellow Mustang was once Red and I am sure I will have problems with it soon because I have such a heavy hard shell, that it tends to chip off on edges pretty easy (oh well).

Did you everything get everything straightened out with the DVD player (I seem to recall that it was hooked up wrong or something like that)?

Racer X
User avatar
By CJB
#15664
Thanks! I'm sort of concerned about the color contrast for chips and scrapes, but it should be an easy color to touch up.
I only went with clear because the base color was flat. It worked out well. DW gave me the encouragement. ;)

Here's my schematic in process...
Escalade EXT.png
User avatar
By jparthum
#15717
Paint looks great CJB! 8-)

This looks like it's gonna be pimpin, with A/V and everything! :P
User avatar
By jparthum
#15723
FWIW: I think :? you could eliminate a relay by opening the common 6V and 12V Negative instead of both Positives...?
User avatar
By jparthum
#15740
CJB wrote:that's my charge lockout. Each + terminal of the battery is isolated during charging. All relays are solely controlled via one key switch.

OK, that's how I was reading it 8-) - since your Positives need to stay isolated for charging, you need two relays to open both circuits. But couldn't your Negatives stay common for charging, so that only one relay would be needed to lockout the charging circuit?
User avatar
By CJB
#15752
jparthum wrote:
CJB wrote:that's my charge lockout. Each + terminal of the battery is isolated during charging. All relays are solely controlled via one key switch.

OK, that's how I was reading it 8-) - since your Positives need to stay isolated for charging, you need two relays to open both circuits. But couldn't your Negatives stay common for charging, so that only one relay would be needed to lockout the charging circuit?


The negatives are separated at the NOS relay.
My -12 is my +6. I plan on charging both at the same time with 2 Schumachers. Not sure if that would create a problem or not. Rather not find out. ;) I got a 'sample' from one of my vendors of 20 SPDT relays, so I'm not concerned in the relay department. I'm swimmin in them. :D

Got the headlights, fog lights and tails installed tonight. OMGD Those lights are bright. I got pics. I'll get them up tomorrow evening.
Last edited by CJB on Tue Apr 05, 2011 6:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By Racer X
#15804
In someone else's thread you said you were shying away from the Super Flux LED's and I can see why. What did your front lights run you? I have three Gaucho's and I think i am going to light them all up this summer and those seem to be the way to go? I wish you had more time in on them so I could see how they are going to hold up.

Racer X
Last edited by Racer X on Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By CJB
#15815
The bright ones:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWNX:IT

$5.99 ea w/ free shipping. Came super fast, too.

This will be all I use from now on.

For Ozniums, you're looking at $3.29 ea + shipping. You'd need 3 or 4 ozniums to even come CLOSE to the brightness of these lamps. There's just no comparison cost-wise.

The only down side I've noticed so far, is each lamp pulls about 1/2 amp. Make sure you size your accessory battery accordingly.
Last edited by CJB on Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By QBee
#16287
That paint job is amazing and I'm speechless about the lights! Thanks for the link to the lights, I'm getting my bookmark on now.
User avatar
By CJB
#16534
Took 'er out for the maiden voyage on Saturday. Ran great until a wheel fell off. :oops:

Threaded the axle ends. No more problems.

One strange thing I noticed is when the vehicle was in low speed, there was an issue with the Engaged/Ready LEDs for my timer module - they both came on at the same time. I'm not sure why that is. Works fine in High. I must have some backfeed somewhere, but I'm not sure how that would be since all of my 12v taps are before the throttle. Strange.
User avatar
By daveweber34
#75684
Image

Poor copy of your earlier diagram, I know. So, for the lighting portion of your diagram, what are those two transistor like symbols you have. The circles with three terminal.
User avatar
By daveweber34
#75746
CJB wrote:switches with leds

Ahhh. So the common ground wire that they are sharing is for the led light in the switch?

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