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User avatar
By civieybuilder
#130689
This is a continuation of:

http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=17675

The board is bad, so ESC and 36V here we come. This build is stealing,,,, ah, I mean borrowing A LOT from ToyCrushers 36V SP Gaucho. :oops: :oops:

I was looking around at the parts I have last night, and thought, with some trimming this might work.

photo(1).JPG
Last edited by civieybuilder on Thu Mar 19, 2015 6:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By TerryInLeesburg
#130692
Very cool.
Please do a build thread, as I was thinking the same thing. (I have the same parts, except no plug wires. ;)
Was debating on just using the center part of the engine (yes it would lose the "shake", but I thought it may look more in scale.
What are your thoughts?

Also, would be VERY interested in your ESC journey, as I am contemplating my own forray into it... just very unsure of my skill level. :shock:

Will be following with interest, so post a lot! :lol:
TE
Last edited by TerryInLeesburg on Thu Mar 19, 2015 6:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#130707
Okay, these are my first crack at wiring diagrams, so be easy. I suck at electrical circuits, but I think I have these figured out except for the question marks. I still have to do the light diagram off the 10 amp subpanel. These are copied for the most part from ToyCrusher's diagrams.

This should give me low speed reverse,
hard brake when power is off or emergency brake is on
soft brake when just normal brake is hit

On the winch, the face and the axle will be spring mounted. I want is to function such that when the switch is in the spool out position you pull on the rope and the motor spools out. When the switch is in the spool in position (momentary switch, have to be in the car) if the hook (or a finger/hand) is pull against the face place it shuts the motor down.

MAIN DIAGRAM

Main1.jpg



ACCESSORY

Access1.jpg



BATTERY SAVER

battery1.jpg



Lights

Lights1.jpg
Last edited by civieybuilder on Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:28 am, edited 13 times in total.
User avatar
By jonesee
#130709
I don't think that motor will work so you should sell it to me :D :D

Actually you can still get the shake to work without the huge manifold section. I used a couple pieces of sheet aluminum to make the pivot bracket and spring retainer and a stick of all thread to use for the hinge.


that would look sweet sticking out the hood!
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#130711
That's pretty much what my plan is. I want to be able to still open the hood up, and sitting on top with the manifold complete eliminates being able to open the hood more than a crack because the engine hits the windshield. I am going to take the manifold off and set the engine bottom about 1" below the hood level. Use aluminum angle and a rod for the pivot. The only thing I have not figured out is how to put in the red "tune up" plastic bolt in place, will have to come up with something, or just leave the engine lose to rattle. I am going to through bolt the angle to the hood with bolts something like these if I can find a better price, I need at least 4.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Skull-LED-License-Plate-Bolt-Blue-Diodes-Motorcycle-Auto-Light-Fastener/171539119079?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D330cb407c2eb424c853803773b65ed03%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D161193658352
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#130718
Not sure why, but they are not coming up in Firefox, just IE, however, you can right click and hit view, that should work.

Update, got if figured out, apparently tif files do not display in anything but IE??? Changed to JPG and works.
Last edited by civieybuilder on Fri Mar 20, 2015 7:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By toycrusher
#130721
Not working in Chrome either... I dunno? :?:
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#130743
So, I have a A151 false engine, but I never liked that they do not have the hinges along the front to clip them into the Gaucho body. I never noticed, but when Peg changed over to the cheaper engine they used the same molds. You can take the "guts" out of the A151 engine and plug and play them right into the new engine. The only thing needed is to cut a rectangle for the switch, which I debated putting up on the dash, but decided against it.

ENGINE.jpg
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#130842
Updated Wiring Diagrams. Got the Aftershock motor mounted on the hood. It is really tight, infact the spark plugs from the gaucho engine sit up inside and around the frame of the Aftershock engine. Starting to get parts in now. I just did an order through Waytekwire, not sure if they got the price wrong (ie 10.00 vs 100.00) but order these for $10 where Mouser wants over $100.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Specialty/TH-450/?qs=fltJrqpyVmUVq8pWNa%2FuHw%3D%3D

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/404/HEAVY-DUTY-CRIMPING-TOOL/
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#130873
Here's the pics. If I did it over I would have set the motor about 1/4" higher, but its okay for now. While I was at it, I reinforced the A151 motor to get rid of the sag they get in the rear, it sagged about 3/4". I through bolted it and hid the bolt heads under the oil cap and battery cover.

Still have some "fit and trim" to do, and replace the hood bolts with something nicer. Also, still need to figure out the "tune up bolt" to adjust the Aftershock motor.

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Last edited by civieybuilder on Sat Mar 28, 2015 5:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#130996
Update wiring diagrams again. Mostly the lights, needed some diodes and some negative feed problems. Still waiting on Monster Scooters to get the 1200 Watt Controller in, they keep pushing back the date. Also, lesson learned on relays. You need to remember W=VA. My son stuck a 50 amp relay over the weekend. I was shocked. Did a little research. The relay is rated at Amps @ a voltage, I knew that, just kind of ignored it. So, that 50 amp relay is at 12v, at 24V it is only good for 25 amps.
User avatar
By toycrusher
#130998
Be very careful about not mixing step down voltage circuits with any other circuit. Voltage always tries to get back to it's source and it can take some funny (and destructive) paths to get there. :shock: :x :lol:
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#131014
Well I got my new crimpers in the mail. I paid $10 for them, but most website have them for $50 to $100. I would hate to have paid that much and get this.

crimper.jpg


They are sitting next to about the cheapest crimpers you can buy. While they are about twice as thick as the cheapos overall they are not much longer. The grips are much nicer, but not any nicer than my "normal" yellow handle crimper. I will say the 12-10 ga. crimp slot is very close to the pivot point so you can really put a lot of force on them. The insulation cutters are some of the worst I have seen. The main reason I got them, other than the price was they can crimp insulated 6&8 ga splices. This is true, but you would have to be a gorilla to do it. I am crimping 6 ga butt splices to make a 3-way splice in 10 ga wire. I could just barely put a dimple on the splice. So, I then put a quick clamp on the handles and still did not really smash it down. Finally, leaving the clamp on the handle I put the crimper in a 30" bolt cutter workings as this.

bolts.jpg


Well that did the trick. I was able to close the crimper down onto itself. After this, I pulled on the joint has hard as I could, did not budge. I was a little surprised how big the 6ga butt splice it. I am done all my 3-way joints in the 10ga wire, but if I had to do it over, I think I might use 3 hole terminals and run a small bolt through them.

ybranch.jpg
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#131142
Can't decide, which one does everyone like better. Top has digital volt, amp, temp, clock. Bottom has digital volt, temp, and analog amp. The green circles are blinker indicators. The border is EL wire, and yes the bottom picture has the gauges behind the EL wire (planning on gluing it to the clear plastic cover). I like the ideal of the analog ammeter, but it takes up so much room and pushes everything behind the EL wire.

dashgaucho1.jpg
Last edited by civieybuilder on Thu Apr 09, 2015 2:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By TerryInLeesburg
#131153
For me, the top one looks more clean and cohesive. More "OEM" so to speak.
The bottom one looks more "cobbled" together.

Just my $0.02

Terry
User avatar
By TerryInLeesburg
#131282
Any progress?

I would love to see some pics of how you are mounting all of the electronics (ESC, etc.) and where you plan to put them.

Yes, I am piggy-backing on your design, gonna copy it, but go to 48V. Just working up the $$, and the nerve to tell the wifey :o
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#131294
Not much actual progress. Monster Scooter just got in, and I ordered the 1200 watt controllers. I was also stalled because the connectors to the controller were out of stock everywhere it seemed. However, just ordered those last night when Electric Scooter got them in. Got in the voltage converter and the battery saver.

In terms of mounting location, the electronics are going under the seat where the original board was. I have a 1x8 pvc board to mount them to. I built a box that is 3 1/2" high by 7 1/4" wide (actual size of 1x8) by 10". This box has five sides (one of the side 7 1/4"x10" sides). The open sides is on the bottom, so if the gaucho ever gets rained on, or squirted or splashed on the electronics will be high and dry. The box is built, just do not want to start mounting until the controller and time delay relay arrives. The voltage converters are going somewhere else, I think they create to much heat to place in the electronics box.

Updated wiring diagrams. Not sure what all I did, but I know I added flyback diodes on the relays. I was afraid I might burn up the controller or voltage converters when the field collapses.
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#131502
Man, waiting on parts sucks. I just got in the connectors last night. Got the controller in Monday. The delay relay for the brake circuit, I saw a delivery date of April 22 to something 28, I assumed it was April 28, nope June 28. :x

I got in the turn signal blinker/buzzer relay. Yup, only good for 5 watts. I had to go back and update wiring diagram to put in extra relay to use 4-way flasher. I also updated the wiring diagrams to eliminate using the indicator wiring off the controller to the 36v relay. Monster scooters could not tell me how much that connection could handle, I was afraid I would burn it up, like the brake connection failures.

The wiring diagrams were also updated to supply power to the clock when the car is off, or the batteries are removed with a 9v battery. The number of diodes seems crazy to me, but better safe than sorry. Thanks CJB for the tip.
http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=17984

Attached is how I laid out my electronics box. Most of the small squares only identified with a single word are relays. The dashed lines are clearance lines for wire bending. The light gray lines are angles across the top of the box for fan mounting. Not sure if I need a fan, but think I might give all the electronics are in a upside down box. I am going to put the flasher/buzzer relay and supporting relay in the dash so it can be heard.

box1.jpg
Last edited by civieybuilder on Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:45 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#143343
I am back!!! My son got out of Power wheels so I kind of put this project on a shelf and forgot about it. Well, no my youngest daughter is getting into them, and my son is showing renewed interest. Anyway, I know this is a odd question, but for the life of me I can not figure out why I included the 36V relay in the main wiring diagram. I know I must have had an important reason, because I had a hard time locating a 36V coil relay. I do not want to eliminate it, but I can not see the need for it. Any ideas? Thanks
User avatar
By Wykydtron
#143344
Can't wait to see some more progress. I am a long ways away from thinking about ESC and high voltage, but I do enjoy reading about it.
By Suburbancharlie77
#143364
If you're still at the wiring phase, check out ratcheting insulated terminal crimpers! They make life much easier, as well as complete and consistent crimps. There's some cheap ones, but usually around $30 or so. Lucky find on that motor..... had one slip out of my hands cuz I was 2 hours away, but seeing it at the time I couldn't resist. Dude only wanted $50 for the jeep.
User avatar
By toycrusher
#143380
civieybuilder wrote:I am back!!! My son got out of Power wheels so I kind of put this project on a shelf and forgot about it. Well, no my youngest daughter is getting into them, and my son is showing renewed interest. Anyway, I know this is a odd question, but for the life of me I can not figure out why I included the 36V relay in the main wiring diagram. I know I must have had an important reason, because I had a hard time locating a 36V coil relay. I do not want to eliminate it, but I can not see the need for it. Any ideas? Thanks


I think you did it as a secondary kill for the accessories when the battery saver would shut off. Or I read your diagram wrong... :? :lol:
User avatar
By civieybuilder
#144064
I have made a little progress, at the speed of continental drift.

Roll Bar with lights
IMG_1715.JPG
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The hood. I tried to match the orange of the Super Power. I would have liked chrome, but was not happy with either color or durability of chrome paint. I really like how the Forged Hammered Grey Paint came out. The skull eye's glow blue. The yellow spark plug wires were pretty dull from sun fade. A bright yellow sharpie marker works great, almost the exact same color as the original.
IMG_1710.JPG
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IMG_1712.JPG
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IMG_1713.JPG
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