Gruber
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M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Use this area as your personal project pages or blog! Each thread belongs to one user as a project page!
#137780
I have successfully converted my boys Peg Polaris 700 12 volt to a Polaris 800/850 twin using the 24 volt gearboxes and motors. I custom made my own wiring harness for FORWARD ONLY use. The speed and torque has improved over the stock 12 volt system and my boy is happy with the upgrades. It does around 7MPH now. I will provide pics and descriptions on how it was done including my schematics for the wiring harness I made.

I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIABILITY FOR WHAT YOU DO! I AM ASSUMING YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND ARE FAMILIAR WITH ELECTRICAL WORK AND MODIFICATIONS. IF YOU ARE SECOND-GUESSING YOUR SKILL LEVEL, DO NOT DO THIS! THIS IS A MODIFICATION FROM AN OEM APPROVED TOY AND YOU ARE RESPONSIABLE FOR ANY MODIFICATIONS PERFORMED.
We are all human and we do make mistakes. Proceeded with caution and please triple check your work.

Here is a parts list you MUST buy for it to work;
~24 volt motor/gearbox assy SAGI8969XWTN -need 2
~rear axle support SPST8975GR -need 2 (Peg calls it a gearbox retainer)
~rear suspension arm SPST8371JGR -need 1 (Peg calls it an axle cover)
~if you want to utilize the OEM forward and reverse function, you need to buy the Polaris 850 24 volt overhaul kit which includes all of the electronics and wire harness. I made my own harness to keep cost down.
~1 24 volt Peg Perego battery with charger OR 2- 12v batteries wired in series. I used 2 12v batteries. They both are 12 volt, 35 amp hour. A lawn tractor battery will work also. This will provide hours of use.
Everything else on the wheeler can be reused and/or transferred over.

If you are going to make your own harness, start building that first. Here is the schematic I made. The headlight functions as a "brake" to slow down the wheeler when the gas pedal is released.
20160208_111133.jpg

I taped the 3 relays together to keep it clean and easier to use using electrical tape. If you don't want to install a headlight function for night time vision, just use 2 relays and subtract relay "C"
20160208_160738.jpg

Here is what the 3 relays will look like when they are almost assembled.
The red wires are the main power from the 24 volt battery. The other larger wires attached to the relays are the switched power that will be sent to the motors. (B+)
20160208_164228.jpg

I bought a connector from Napa that can handle up to 80 amps. I soldered 3 wires to each terminal; 2 12 gauge and 1 16 gauge to both positive and negative. The big wires will be main power/ground for the motors and the small ones will be relay controls and ground.
20160210_172802.jpg

Once the harness is mostly assembled, remove the old harness EXCEPT the wires going to the pedal, you will need those. Remove drive tires, gearboxes, rear metal axle (that the tires slide onto) and rear suspension arm from the wheeler. The "fake" transmission cover attached to the suspension arm will snap directly onto the new replacement. Reassemble in reverse order.
20160210_124426.jpg

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Run wires to left and right motors, insert metal axle and axle retainers, gearboxes, and tires. Now finish wiring the harness to the body. Here is what mine looked like when finished and tied up. The twisted wires are the motor positive and negative wires. I only twisted them together for cleanliness and ease of routing.
20160210_155821.jpg


Here is where I put the headlight switch. Its function is so that way I am not having it on during the day time, but flip the switch at night, and you now have a functional headlight for dusk/dark riding. This is an option but I suggest doing it to save on the battery if you are going to install a functional headlight.
20160210_155932.jpg

I mounted the 55 watt headlight for night time use. It is quite bright and highly functional. My son loves it at night. It will also function as a brake enabler by loading the motors when the pedal is released to help slow the wheeler down a bit faster, HOWEVER, it is NOT an instant stop. When the gas pedal is released, it will be normal for the headlight to become very bright for a short time. It is simply receiving 20 volts of power when the wheeler is in motion but the gas is being released. You will need to cut up the insides of the headlight cover on the wheeler to make room for this light. I found it at Pep Boys.
20160210_160737.jpg

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A FUSE OR CIRCUIT BREAKER INSTALLED AT THE BATTERY POSITIVE LEAD!!!! I do not want to hear stories about how their kid ended up in a hospital because of an electrical fire!!!
Now plug in the battery and pay very close attention to any smells, burning or melting of wires. If all is ok, lift the drive tires off the ground and hit the gas a short moment. Make sure everything is working properly. If 1 tire is going forward and one back, take off the reverse moving tire and switch the wires at the motor around.
If everything is working properly, your good! Please monitor your child's use of the machine for the next few days to make sure all is well. GOOD LUCK!!! =D
Last edited by JHELLSLAYER on Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#137791
Great write-up! Thanks for sharing. I will suggest one correction, a lawn tractor battery can be a bad idea. The only recommended battery for child's toys are SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries because they are unlikely to spill acid in an accident. Again, everyone makes their own decisions and should be prepared to accept responsibility for their choices.

I would also suggest an LED light in place of your halogen unit. Though the LED doesn't consume enough power to be useful as a brake.
#138415
Thank you Toy Crusher! it was quite fun to do it and have it be successful. I 100% agree with the sealed battery also. I have quite a lot of DOT legal LED lights on this wheeler so he is seen at night and they draw minimal power. The halogen lamp was mainly for a braking function as a motor voltage dissipater, but it illuminates the ground very well as a standard light.
However I do have an issue with the wiring harness. I am burning up the motors commutator and brushes very quickly. I am figuring the majority of the wear and damage is from the initial start of the machine from a dead stop, getting a full blast of 24 volts and the 30 amps these motors are sucking at a dead stop. I am having massive sparks at an initial start from the motors.
I am working on making a new designed wiring harness that will utilize a delay timer and have the motors start out using 12 volts then bump up to 24 volt a second or 2 after. That way it is not arcing severely on the brushes and commutator. PLEASE DO NOT USE THE PREVIOUSLY POSTED WIRING DIAGRAM. It does work great, but burns up motors very quickly. (my boy got 3 weeks from new, 24 volt motors) I will have a better (but sadly more complex) diagram posted on here once I finish designing, building, and test it. In theory it will be far superior and the braking function will increase also.

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