Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Use this area as your personal project pages or blog! Each thread belongs to one user as a project page!
By 6772owner
#140458
With the FJ Cruiser build complete, I am starting the next customer build. This will be a SWAT theme build, LED headlights/taillights, remote kill switch, strobe light kit, pneumatic tires and possibly 18v boost button.


As dropped off by the customer.

Image


Image


Waiting inline to be worked on.

Image


The tear down starts.

Image


Image


Working on the wiring setup, going to use a relay for throttle pedal and another relay for the remote kill.

Image

Almost bare tub.

Image
By 6772owner
#140530
I picked up the pneumatic rubber tires for the Jeep last night, going to try again for this build. I think that using the stock wheel cover and this being a "military" Jeep will help the look. I am still a little nervous about how narrow the tires look, but I think it will be okay in the end.


Image


Obviously I'll have to modify the wheel covers so that sit down on the tire, this is just mock up phase.

Image


Image
By 6772owner
#140537
Suburbancharlie77,

That was my thought, I think it will be more authentic if anything, I appreciate the feedback. This build will not be using an ESC, the customer wants to keep the cost down. I will be installing a 12v/12ah battery to power the rig most of the time and a 6v/12ah battery for "NOS" or "Offroad" mode. The customer requested the ability to bump up the power to run in the grass/dirt and I am excited to try something different.

The plan is to run the vehicle on 12v for pavement and then have a switched relay for the 18v bump. I am also going to run a relay for a wireless remote kill switch so that they can shut down all power in case of a failure/emergency situation.
#140538
So it most likely came with 16T, to compensate for traction, are they considering lower gears or the 7R since it doesn't sound like a temporary turbo, or is that one new enough to have come with them stock? Aren't the hurricane gearboxes something lower (just based on low 18V speed haven't torn one down yet) but the boost switch would make up for it?
By 6772owner
#140589
All good points, I have not looked at the gearboxes/gearing yet, I will have to get into that next. I guess I could use the gearboxes for the Escalade then correct?
By 6772owner
#140591
Updates:

I have started putting together the wiring for drive system, running lights and 18v boost button. I still need to work out the charging for the system though. I am hoping that I can use a Schumacher 6v/12v charger and a three position switch to charge them individually. My concern is tying the grounds together for both batteries (at the charging plug). Will this work?


Image


Image


Image


Holes for fresh air intake.

Image


Holes for the exhaust fans.

Image


Main color for the body.

Image


Taillight housings in color, next is the LED strips.

Image


Image


Image


Image
By 6772owner
#140592
Wire cover/pedal mount and hood in primer.

Image


Image


And in color.


Image


Image


Headlight grille covers.

Image


Front bumper in color.

Image


Dash in color.

Image


I also started working on the tub, cleaned, sanded, primed and painted the main portion of the tub. I ran out of primer and paint, so I will finish up the rest later.

Image


Image
#140593
Sorry, but I'm not going to touch comments about the charge wiring,I don't want to steer you wrong, other than to offer up the possible use of this charger.



If there's a chance they may get into other rides in the future, this charger is totally designed for guys like us!
As far as the escalade, I think that just has 15 gearboxes, basically the same as a 16?

Excellent progress though! It's amazing what can get done when it's paid for haha
User avatar
By giantsnation
#140601
Looks like were working on the same exact project - barbie jeep.

SO you're using what looks like 10" wheels, correct? I just test fitted those and thought they were a bit small. How are you planning on doing the rears with the new driver style? I could do the rubber connector as described in Wil's CD BUT it seems with the 10" wheels, the wheel driver might just pressure fit right on.
By 6772owner
#140605
Suburbancharlie77: That is the charger I plan on using, I have one personally and it works great. I think I am going to be ok using a 3 way toggle switch to charge each battery independently... I have separate power/ground wires at each battery just for the charging circuit and a relay to isolate the vehicle systems from the batteries when charging.

I agree, I like this charger, I use it charge the auxiliary batteries in the Escalade with a trailer plug.

Ha Ha, yea, it is more motivating working on pay work that personal for sure.


Giantsnation: Yes, these are the 10" tires from Harbor Freight, they are pretty close to same diameter. The next size up I found is 13", which is too large w/o lifting it, so I hope these are ok... I plan on taking out the existing bolts and using longer ones with steel tube/pipe that will key into the cutouts on the stock driver... The back up plan is to use the rubber pipe couplers and hope that works. I am not sure what you mean by a pressure fit, but I have not played around with them much yet either.
#140607
Glad to hear it's a good charger. My 1.5 amp just gave up the ghost and I've been eyeballing that for a while now.... I dunno, probably just a transformer, but I don't want to mess with it. It's 15 years old.... paid for itself
#140611
6772owner wrote:Giantsnation: Yes, these are the 10" tires from Harbor Freight, they are pretty close to same diameter. The next size up I found is 13", which is too large w/o lifting it, so I hope these are ok... I plan on taking out the existing bolts and using longer ones with steel tube/pipe that will key into the cutouts on the stock driver... The back up plan is to use the rubber pipe couplers and hope that works. I am not sure what you mean by a pressure fit, but I have not played around with them much yet either.


Yup those are the same ones I bought for testing and after your comments and a fresh set of eyes, I'm going to stick with them. By pressure fitting, I mean that the 4 bolt pattern on the wheels might just fit the wheel driver - meaning no rubber coupling or anything.
By 6772owner
#140615
Giantsnation: I have been looking for a better/wider solution, but can't seem to find anything that makes sense...

I understand, I think I will end up putting in pegs to line up with the drivers. My other thought is to cut off the four bolt flange on the driver and use a rubber coupler between them. I am thinking that maybe better to offer some "give" to the drivetrain.
#140616
Here is what I'm playing with (need longer bolts for sure). But essentially, here is what I did.

Unbolt the tire and use the side with semi-flush flange (I plan on re-driling a hole on the other side for the air inflator). Then I used a drill to slightly widen the driver gear holes and I snipped about 1/4" off each side so it would fit the rim. Next, I used a pair of snips to add a slight indentation (to account for the flange). It now sits almost flush with a little slack - I might need to widen the holes a little bit more. To mount this to the PW, I'll had a steel sleeve to account for 5/8" bore and then I'll drill a the hole in the axle for a hitch pin.

Image
By 6772owner
#140632
That is definitely not what I was thinking, but I may have to look at that more, thanks for posting this.
By 6772owner
#140660
Small update:

I have the dash 90% assembled, I still need to install the rocker switch for the 18V boost, but its good to go otherwise.


Image


I ran out of primer and paint, so I need to pick up more and get main tub completed so I can start final assembly and wiring. From there I need to look at the front sag and solutions for the rubber tires.
By 6772owner
#140674
Update:

I picked up more paint on lunch today, so I finished painting the main body tonight. I also started painting the steering wheel, grille shell and throttle pedal in khaki camo.


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image
By 6772owner
#140690
Thanks, that is good info, I appreciate it!
By 6772owner
#140764
A little bit more progress over the weekend, I have the grille shell painted and lighting installed, I also painted the throttle pedal, steering wheel and shifter.


Image


Image


Grille shell with headlights, before the strobes.

Image


W/Strobes.

Image


The painted parts pile is growing, time to get the final assembly moving along...

Image

I also picked up a "tool cart" to turn into a rolling build stand, I have been using 5 gallon buckets and it was getting annoying... This way I can store parts and hardware for the build, as well as the body, all on a rolling platform. This will help keep everything together and organized, as well as easily moved around and at a good working height for me.


Image


Image
By 6772owner
#140805
I finally received the new batteries for this project so I got to work on strapping the batteries in place. I bent up some aluminum stock that I had and I think they are pretty secure.


Image


Image
By 6772owner
#140947
Updates: I have the wiring installed and layed out, just need to complete the rear portion. I have the front section completed, headlights, strobes, dash connections are all functional.


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image
By 6772owner
#140956
I have finally painted and installed the rear bumper and taillights. I also starting working on the charge wiring. I had originally planned on using a three way switch to toggle to the 6v or 12v battery for charging... well I hooked everything up to the switch but the circuit didn't like having both grounds tied together, now I don't what to do... I assume I need to use another three way switch for the grounds?


Image


Image
By 6772owner
#140970
Roadmonkey,

I wasnt worried about it, but when I have the grounds combined, my main fuse on the 12v battery blows when I try to activate the circuit. Could you help me with the wiring for a relay or do you think that the diode would prevent the issue? I think I have some diodes, I guess I could just try it... ha ha
By 6772owner
#140989
When I try to run the Jeep basically, I have an ignition relay that feeds all of the 12v power to a circuit breaker that powers the system. The relay is triggered from a wireless on/off controller (remote kill). When the grounds were tied together, the 12v fuse feeding the ignition relay grenades (like a direct short) if I activate the remote switch,/relay.

I hope that makes sense.
By 6772owner
#141091
A little more progress this week, working on the last of the wiring, painting the last few black pieces and working on the front module.


Image


Image
By 6772owner
#141113
I think that most of the problem is the slop in the pivot point for the front spindles. I used some steel sleeves that were pressed into the front module using a little encouragement with the heat gun. Someone did it on the forum and I think it is a good solution for the slop and longevity of the repair. I am hoping that I dont have excessive toe when I get everything back together or I will have to cut the tie rod to correct it. I hope that I can just cut and plate it, using bolts to secure. I guess we will see how it goes.
By 6772owner
#141115
Update: I have made some good progress finally, I have installed all of the front end components, windshield frame, roll bar, etc. I still need to wrap up the hood hold downs and a few other small items.


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image
By 6772owner
#141130
Updates:

Working on final details, painted and installed the hood latches, painted the front wheels and relubed one gearbox so far.


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image
By 6772owner
#141163
Update:

I made some good progress over the long weekend, I have painted all of the wheels and mounted them on the vehicle. I understand that the skinny tires aren't for everyone (me included) but the customer loves the look and it fits the old Military Jeep theme pretty well.


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image
By 6772owner
#141164
Here are a few more photos of the progress.

Copper pipe to reinforce the driver, this is so that the hose clamp doesnt break the driver when tightened.

Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Testing the headlights.

Image
By 6772owner
#141172
Thank you sir, it is just a pipe coupler cut down to the height I needed, I think you could probably get four slices out of the single piece. I was looking for something with the specific ID/OD I needed and this fit the bill perfectly.
By 6772owner
#141217
Here are the final stages of the Jeep build, hoping to wrap it up tonight and deliver to the customer tomorrow. I had to correct the toe out situation, especially with the rubber tires, so I need to finish that tonight and perform the final quality checks.

Rear strobes, charge port in fuel filler and switches to select the 12v or 6v battery for charging.

Image


Wiring all completed and ready for final inspection.

Image


Seat and lap belts installed.

Image


Image
By 6772owner
#141261
Thank you sir! If I build another one, I think I would just use a single DPDT switch instead, but this works just fine. Ha Ha
By 6772owner
#141275
I have finished the Jeep, loaded it up and delivered it to the customer, happy with the outcome.

I wasnt happy with the toe out after the Jeep was complete and on the ground, so I had to bite the bullet and cut on the freshly finished vehicle... I ended up using some aluminum scraps I had laying around and got it taken care of.

Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image
By 6772owner
#141299
Thank you very much, I gave up and added a second three position switch, so it's just a matter of putting both switches in the same position and it charges fine.
User avatar
By WyldRyd
#144386
Hey can you share what you used for your headlights? I am working on a Jeep and would love to hear and see what you did and used!

Thanks! :D :?:
By 6772owner
#144412
Hello, I used COB LED dome light bulbs, I just drilled a hole in the grille shell and pulled the wiring through, then a hole in the top of the body for the wires again.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.ca/itm/201708583907
User avatar
By WyldRyd
#144415
6772owner,

Thank you for the reply! I am curious as well with how good/far was the throw of the lights? I ask as I could see a LED Bulb possibly having a longer throw in front of the vehicle. I really like the look of the style you did and just trying to figure out if they will throw enough light in front that they make it drivable at night or not?
By 6772owner
#144727
No problem at all, I think the light is pretty decent. If you need more light, I would use Eagle Eye LED's or LED driving lights, I have used those as well.


Image


Image
Kid Trax gear help please

My child broke the gear shown in the image. It is […]

What all do I need to buy to install the new motor[…]

Broken link

I'm trying to read this: http://www.modifiedpowerw[…]

Hello from the west cost (for now)

Hey Guys ,, can't wait to get involved with this p[…]

HobbyMasters