M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
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User avatar
By Sokalled
First Post!
I've been scouring the web, watching YouTube, and following search results to this forum and decided I should stop lurking. I'm very interested in the China Made 350w & 500w quads and even got quotes from two companies. ~$200 delivered sounds like a supreme deal, but they're a little big for my 25 pound 27" tall 27 month old so maybe next year. So instead, I picked up a used Polaris Sportman 700 12v off Craigslist for $65 :) yesterday and also ordered some parts.

Here is what I have so far:
Polaris Sportsman 700 12v Yellow
6v 12ah battery to bring the stock 12v to 18v
DC10-80V1000LM 6500K Headlight
12v LED Controller w/switch
12v RED LED trailer brake lights
12v Amber LED running lights
and Used Mt.Bike tires like this

Planned Mods/Purchases:
Put Mt.Bike tires on wheels
Order a terminal block like this one?:
Wire new 6v battery in series with existing 12v and into terminal block
Order and wire in an inline fuse like this one: (But where along the circuit? And what amp fuse should I use?)
Order and wire in a remote kill switch like this one?: (But where along the circuit? And is 15amp capacity one enough?)
Wire in the 12v LED controller (I'm thinking this connects to the terminal block and then I run the lights off it so there is a switch and the current is regulated??)
I want to install the LED spotlight in-place of the faux headlight under the handle bars, but I noticed a circuit behind the light cover which I assume is for the existing dash lights, should I leave that alone or try and utilize it somehow?
Replace the faux tail light with a trailer brake light, perhaps keep the faux facade and just use the innards of the trailer light.
Dremel out the front body headlights and install running lights

Here are my main questions, but any insight/advice will be appreciated :D
I'm seeking electrical advice for after I wire the batteries in series. Specifically:
Do I wire the in-line fuse in to the positive or negative, in-between the batteries, or after? Before the Terminal Block?
Do I power the remote kill from the negative or positive? Before the terminal block correct?
Will the LED controller I ordered help save my lights from popping?
If I decide to use non-LED running or brake lights, should I still keep them and the LED headlight on the same controller? (I like having a switch, but could add another)
Should I seriously consider a controller that allows the bike to coast instead of lock when pedal is released? Or is that too hardcore for a noob and unnecessary with just 18v?
User avatar
By Sokalled
*12/6 UPDATE*

Upon further research (Thank You MPW!), I certainly caught the bug :shock:

This is my accumulating inventory for this weekend's build so far:
I also already have the following to get started:
    14G Wire
    Incandescent & LED Trailer Brake Lights(T)
    Incandescent & LED Trailer Running Lights(S)
    Soldering Iron
    Assorted Shrink Tubing
    Hot Glue Gun
    Heat Gun
    A concerning amount of gusto
I'm diving into this this weekend and would like avoid shorting out the boards, batteries, and creating a fire, so any advice on how these parts best fit together would be appreciated. If someone could please look at this picture of my preliminary wiring diagram and help me correct flaws, determine where to introduce the kill switch, where to source the power for the accessory's and battery saver relay (bottom right), and whether or not the voltage regulators, indicator, and other relays are of any use, I would be much obliged. I also have some inline fuses and a 30A breaker, not sure if I can or where I should use these either. Thank you!!
User avatar
By Sokalled
*12/6/PM UPDATE*

Managed to get the bike apart, hopefully I can remember how it goes back together :?
I also soldered wiring connections for the horn and LED headlamp and preemptively added ignition switch wiring too. Ran it all down from the handlebars through the steering column terminating into two 4-prong trailer connectors :D Here's a picture
User avatar
A few changes for the module wiring...

(forgot a few things on the drawing. see next post :lol:)

Don't forget to cut J2 on the interface board.

As far as the remote kill goes, check this thread out... ... IC_ID=4821

Your voltage meter can be installed using the +out and -out terminals of the 18v interface. This will read the voltage being supplied to the vehicle wiring.

As far as your 'coasting' question, consider a separate brake pedal. ... IC_ID=2474
or even used in conjunction with a brake lever such as this: ... duct_id=89

I would stick to LED lights. Incandescent automotive bulbs draw 1-2 amps each. That will drastically reduce your run time and they will dim severely when the throttle is pushed. Keep it all LED.

The 18v interface board contains the holders for the two inline fuses you need for the batteries. Make sure to install it AS CLOSE to the batteries as possible. Keep those wires from the batteries to the board as short as you can. Start with 30A fuses. I'll try to get those two modules shipped out today for you. It would also be a good idea to use a separate inline fuse (10A) for your lights. You could put it right before or right after the battery saver relay.

Skip all your 'LED Controllers' and regulators and stuff. Not necessary. The battery saver will give you the auto on/off as long as your switch is on (or lights are hardwired on) and as long as you only provide 12v to them as shown in the diagram above, there is no need for any regulators.

Browse through my Polaris 700 thread if you want.
Last edited by CJB on Wed Dec 07, 2016 8:01 am, edited 4 times in total.
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