M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
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By Myshkin
New Dad, New PW(KT) Owner, New Modder.

Grandpa just picked up a KidTrax RAM Long Horn edition from CL.

-Didn't come with a battery. So my dad picked up a really small little 12v battery from Tractor Supply. I believe its for deer feeders. The runtime is pretty short and the charge time is pretty long.
-Questionable Wiring. PO hooked up a self resetting circuit breaker to the ground wire coming from the battery.

-Overall body is in good shape, this is going to be driven by a 2 year old so I know he'll change that quickly
-Came with an entire set of replacement stickers! Which I'll need help sealing the replacements because 1 day out in the sun of texas and all the stickers started bubbling and peeling off...
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Wanting to start small on this one. Just need a new battery and charger, then some longer lasting decals, will probably buy some of the actual badges online. Then I just want headlights and fog lights. Might do some speed/performance upgrades later, but right now just want a dependable/tough truck for a 2 year old terror.
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By PfcFillmore
If you are looking for a longer lasting battery, look at the Ah (Amp Hour) Discharge. It will help you determine how long the battery will last. Deer feeders are meant to be used briefly for long periods of time. I was lucky enough to be able to snag some Portable X-Ray machine battery's when they were changing them out (when one dies, they have to replace them all) If you have a local Battery Outfitters, they may be able to provide you with a much better solution though.

Good luck, Good to see fresh Blood!
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By wired
The self-resetting circuit breaker is fine as long as its 30amp or 40amp. It means the PO probably already went to an aftermarket battery that needed an overcurrent protector (fuse/breaker). Thats a good sign that they knew enough to protect the vehicle and the driver. I would be more concerned not to see one. look for a 12v 12ah SLA or AGM battery for a good replacement with ample run time.
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By Myshkin
Current setup:
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Then I was looking around my garage and got some inspiration from an old battery jumper pack that I don't use anymore. Took the battery out and popped it in the RAM. So far so good, plus I like the added authenticity of having a DieHard in the truck.
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Now How does the circuit breaker differ from an inline fuse? I assumed the breaker should be on the positive line, and not the ground, am I wrong?
The circuit breaker serves the same purpose as the fuse. The difference is it will automatically reset once it cools down. The fuse on the other hand needs to be replaced before it will work again.
The position of the fuse/breaker dosen't really matter electrically speaking. It will still cut power during an overload no matter what side of the circuit it is on. I personally put them on the positive side but it makes no difference.
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By Myshkin
Been having a heck of a time with this project and a heck of a time with this forum. apparently if I want to post photos direct from my phone I need to reduce my image quality, but anyway.

I'm definitely feeling the pain of not planning your project before beginning. Buying double parts so costing a lot more than it should.

So I bought some Anderson connectors so I can charge direct from the stock charging port, because my wife asked. "Can't you just make it so I can charge it by this port right here?"

The Anderson SBS50 connector is ridiculously expensive, so while I was late night trolling i found a housing and connector for about half the price, too bad I didn't read close and it was an SB50 connector, not SBS50.... Bought an SBS50 housing, but turns out the terminals that click inside are different for the SB50 and SBS50, so now I have to wait once again.....

I only get 2 days off a week so I like to tinker with the RAM a bit at night but then put it back together so the boy can drive around. I got antsy and hooked up both the diehard and the deerfeeder battery in a 24v series, just to see what it would do. (only planned to drive it for a couple minutes as to not hurt the motor/gearboxes.

Sounds didn't work, but the pedal did, so I think I may have burned out the sounds and lights on the windshield. Which was my wife's favorite part. I haven't opened it up and poked around yet, I'll get the multi-meter out tonight to check.

Anyone know off hand if the 24v just burns out the stock lights/sounds? Or was it hooking up 2 VERY DIFFERENT 12v batteries in a series (7AH & 22ah). I'm going to be in the dog house until i get them fixed.
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By Myshkin
Have Given up on the Anderson Power Stock Connector for the charger, after having blew over $50 on connectors....

Haven't picked up a soldering iron in over 15 years, but after some ugly bonds and precautionary liquid tape, got the led strips wired up and ready to go! There is a bit of light pollution from the 3rd brakelight, but my son actually likes it because its a nice cargo light so he can see his toys at night when he loads them up! Happy Accident!
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Tail Lights.jpg
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User avatar
By Myshkin
Yeah I read a lot about how you have to buy the right connector, so I bought the blue connector, too bad I didn't read that I was buying a SB50 kit instead of SBS50. Then I tried to fit the crimp terminals from the sb50 into the SBS50 I bought the second time around...
And in literally hours of reading, I believe that I have read that usually capacitors have a tendency to blow out, with the sound of a "pop" when over volting. But I can't say if it is something mainly on driver boards, or if it could be the case with the sound/light board, but either way, it should be something to look for??? You can hopefully see it upon closer inspection, and match up the numbers on the side from any good electronics store. They are soldered in.
By Roadmonkeytj
If the lights are led on the windshield then you may have fried the resistor on their string. LEDs can be wired at several different voltages with the same led ... The 12v 6v etc versions add up the ratings off the LEDs then add a resistor to use up the rest of the voltage. Learned this the hard way making custom led tank lights for the aquarium. There's a lot of good info on Google about it that can explain way better than I can. But basically I took an old machine light that was 24V reworked the LED strips into a custom hood then took the store bought blue LEDs that are 9v and added a resistor to their line so I have everything powered off the same ballast but switch able for day night ... You can do the same with your LEDs on the powerwheels by changing the current resistor or adding one with some math to make up the difference in voltage.
One more thing, recent experiment found that a smart charger (no spark measures voltage first) won't active the battery disconnect for the external charge port. So the fancy Schumacher brand smart chargers don't work with this ride. The charger never "sees" the battery. Just an FYI

bad charger ?

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