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#36587
I scored this Super Power today for $40!
This thread is going to document its revival from neglect. I plan to paint it, get it running and do some light mods and such.

Its pretty beat up cosmetically, but not too bad mechanically. I will let the pics do the talking.
It has some severe fading in the body and other parts.

A new battery, and cleaned out throttle assembly and I have it working now. I was happy to see the control board was functioning, sorta....

I am having a issue that I am only getting 9 volts from the motor outputs in high gear. I have a feeling this might be due to me reinstalling the pot on the throttle incorrectly. More to come on this.



Here are the pics so far of what it looked like when I got it home. I have cleaned out all the creepy crawlers, leaves, ect. Man I am glad I am not afraid of spiders, must have cleaned out a couple dozen live ones!

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Found my missing tail light!
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And a nest!

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Spiderville!

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Last edited by Jornum1 on Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:02 am, edited 2 times in total.
#36591
just to give you a idea of my paint scheme I am going to go with a black bedliner, with silver and red accents. just touches of red, and silver. mostly black.

I painted my motorcyles plastics in bedliner and it came out awesome. people can't believe its bedliner. if prepped right its super tough. and eve if it does scratch its simple to repair with not sanding needed.
here is a pic of my bike. creates a awesome look

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#36597
wait do I see that thing in the back of a JOHN DEERE GATOR :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
#36649
throttle is fixed!
it was my mistake. I installed the pinion rotated the wrong way. so basically the stop was hitting on the wrong side. rotated it to the other side of the stop and bingo, 25+ volts out of the contoller.

cleaned up the whole gearbox/ brake compartment. will get some pics up soon
#36658
Here are the pics, I am really pumped that this SP is 100 functional on the drive side. Not sure about the lights yet, but we will see. I am going to re do all the lighting with LED's.

Also looking for some cool spider related names to knickname this ride. I came to work on it this morning, and the whole seating area had a huge web already spun all over it! This thing is a serious spider hotel. I am kinda scared to pull the body off the tub to see whats in between the two!

Here is how nasty the bottom tray was. I pulled hand fulls of leaves and muck out of it. Giving it a good spray down with some simple green and a wash.

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Brakes were seized closed, gave it a good spray of silicone and the piston came loose. I think they need a little cleaning, huh?

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Here is the newly cleaned up underside. Wow what a little vacuum, some simple green and a little elbow grease does ;-)

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#36718
Spent way more time on cleaning the tub today then I should have! Just couldnt help myself, something really fun about restoring something back to its glory.
I basically tore everything down, cleaned everything with simple green and rinsed it down with a garden hose. Then put everything back together. I have everything cleaned and reassembled in the tub. I will tackle the body and wheels next.

Since everything is going so well I dont know if I am going to be able to keep this from my son till xmas ;-) I know he is going to love this thing.
I am thinking of cleaning everything as best as I can, and putting it back together. Not only because I am excited for him to have it, but practically he has a hard time steering other ride ons. His brute force is fine, you get a lot of torque with the bars. But he just doesnt have the strength to turn those little steering wheels with the crappy steering systems.
I think he will have a much easier time with the rack and pinion of the Gaucho. And of course the soft start is always a plus.

I would then take it back apart closer to xmas and making it look brand new. I priced out my parts, and it will cost me about $150 to pick up all the new parts. Seat covers, wheels, radio, mirrors, lenses, hood latches, ect. All small stuff but it adds up. The wheels are the bulk of the cost. I will also rewire all the lights with LED's and some underglow strips.
It will look brand new. With a fresh paint job on the body, it will be perfect. He will still freak out seeing it sitting in the living room christmas morning.

Ok enough talk here are some more pics of the progress. Tub looks brand new now ;-)

Heres a pic of the body right before removal

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Of course I forgot to take a before pic of the tub, but I was too busy killing spiders ;-)
Here is the after pics of the finished tub and reassembled drive and brake system.
She looks almost brand new. At least as clean as I am willing to go for something thats just gonna get dirty again! Not neglected though.

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#36746
ahh forgot to post about that.
I pulled them apart and regreased them. they looked pretty good actually. but after sitting for so long I didn want to chance it.
my hands were a mess so I didn't get any pics.
pretty burley gearbox compared to the pw ones I have looked at.
#36749
Jornum1 wrote:ahh forgot to post about that.
I pulled them apart and regreased them. they looked pretty good actually. but after sitting for so long I didn want to chance it.
my hands were a mess so I didn't get any pics.
pretty burley gearbox compared to the pw ones I have looked at.

cool & yeah I have never found a clean way to regrease gearboxes
#36955
cleaned up the body and put it back on with parts only needed to ride.
I let my son test ride it. I was concerned he was a bit too short even with the seats all the way up. he could drive it but he was on the edge of the seat. I am going to try to modify it to move up a couple more inches.
also the pedal is way too stiff for him. I am going to try swapping in a softer spring.

I also think the throttle cable has stretched. as even with it to the floor I am only getting just over 12 volts to the motors. if I pull the cable by hand I can get it all the way up to 24+
I probably will just order a new cable its only a few bucks when I order other parts. for now I will just put a spacer on the end to tighten it up. didn't really have time to play with it then. was watching the little man.

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#37326
So a little news on this one. I decided the ditch the stock controller. I came to the conclusion that something was wrong with it.
I started another thread in the brpo section about using a rc esc as a power control.
viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4728" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I am very impressed with it, really brought out the potential of these big beefy motors and gearboxes.

I will post some pics and video tomorrow.
#38059
So I could no resist and since I had the Mambo esc in, I had to go the full 9 yards and do the steering as well. I figured it worked great with the brute force in helping my son to learn how to steer.
And I cant turn down a challenge ;-)

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I decided to go off the steering column and take advantage of the rack and pinion to ease the effort needed to turn those big tires. While I dont needs as much torque, I do need more rotation now. The servo only turns about 90 degrees total, thats only 45 each way. So I ordered a servo stretcher from servo city and this will double my range. That should be enough to get by. I cant find a bigger 3/8" shaft #25 chain sprocket then the 36 tooth I am using. The steering sprocket was a bit more challenging as I could not find any 14mm shaft sprockets. I ended up buying a machinable sprocket and just bored it out to 14mm on a lathe. it is a 12 tooth. The servo sprocket is a little higher then the column sprocket so I will have to take it off and shave a little off the collar to match it up better.

I mounted the servo using a piece of angle. It is backed up with another flat piece on the other side of the plastic. Even with that the servo wanted to torque a little so I used some thick wall aluminum tubing to make a column to support the other side.
The chain tension is held by a nylon bearing through the steering column and mounted to the servo. I then added 3 washers on each side to get the chain at the desired tension.

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Here is a video of the steering in action. Again after I get my servo stretcher I will have twice as much range. I know its not much right now.



Here is quck vid of it driving. The batt's are no where near fully charged.

#38090
Nice Job! Your fabricating skills are excellent! Bringing it to the meet? That should be good for the Stock+6 class.

(he can race and you can "assist") :lol:
#38096
thanks guys, it has been a lot of fun. I can see why the gaucho is such a popular platform. Its very easy to work on

And yes I was going to bring it just for the heck of it and see if he could use it for something.

The cool thing about the mambo, is I can reduce the throttle power from 100% to 60% and basically be able to run it at any voltage I want. So let me know what he can run it in and I can adjust the voltage accordingly ;-)
#38114
The Peg 24 volt rides are advertised at 7 or 7-1/2 mph. That puts them right in line with 18 volt Power Wheels so "stock" (ie. motors, gears, and tire diameter) 24 volt peg rides can run in the +6 class. You might have to bring the quad for the stock class. .....or run them side by side to figure out where to set the controller.
#38115
I was going to bring the quad anyway, but that is running a scooter controller. Though the motors are run in series which limits the output to 12v, so it is the same speed as stock. If anything a little slower because when I tested my scooter controller it was only outputting 23v max.

Either way he will have fun, he wont care. We arent coming to "race", just have fun.
#40475
bricklayer99 wrote:I haven't seen where you ordered the gbs for the front yet :)


Just ordered some RZR motors and gbs along with some other accessories the Sp was missing from ML-Toyz. Hope to have them in a week or so.

Also I decided if I am going to to 4x4 I need to to the whole 9 yards and go with full suspension as well ;-)

I have been working on a chassis design in sketchup(still getting used to the software). I decided on using 3/4 square tubing for the chassis. I am going to have it run the length of the body for rigidity and also to allow me to attach a front and rear bumper for protection.

I am going to with a 4" lift over stock and a 1 link suspension. I am still undecided on gas shock vs spring, but am leaning towards a spring for looks and it just fits the front end design better.

My plan is to cut the stock axles off after the mounting points to retain the rack and pinion assembly. The front of the chassis will sit on top of this. It is almost flush with the floor of the tub. It will need a small spacer, but it will work out to allow the rack movement.

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The rear will stretch over the old stock shocks which will be replaced with some sort of strut.

Here is my design so far.

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Also painted the tub while I had it off. Sanded it down with some 220 grit and sprayed two cans of Rustoleum Bed liner. Looks pretty bad buttocks!

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#40574
Thanks, I am happy with how this is working out. Ordered my material and hope to start building the main chassis this week. You, scoutman, and taz have been my motivating me to get moving on this eary ;-)

I am doing ok with sketchup, this is pretty basic. I am not going to go too far into detail as it would take longer for me to put it on sketchup then to actually build it! But I wanted to be able to visualize the main components and get my sizing down.
I have been watching a lot of the tutorials and learning a lot.
#40583
its a very practical solution that looks good as well. like I said I am more of a go then show guy, and I like low maintenance. scuff the surface and apply 5 or 6 modest coats and your good to go. and to touch it up just mask a area off and respray.
I did all my plastics on my bike this way and it worked out great.
#40890
Woo hoo fabricators xmas day!
Received my material and ball joint ends for the 1 link, steering, and panhard bars.
Tomorrow I start cutting and welding ;-)
Hopefully I can get the main chassis and rear axle fabbed up this week and be ready for my GB's when they come in.

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#40910
87jeepwrangler wrote:cool. where did you source the metal and heims? what size heims did you go with?


I ordered everything from mcmaster, I love that place. Most prices are decent, and its a one stop shopping place. They literally have almost everything you could want. There is a warehouse in NJ, so most parts get to me the next day. I really love how they have their ordering system for parts where you can refine searches. It really makes it easy to find the right parts you want.

The larger heims are 5/8" with a 22 degree range. I was going to go with 1/2" but they did not offer them in anything larger then a 17 degree range. Well at least in the standard ball joints. they have the super expensive ones that go up to 60 degrees, but I think they were like $30 each. 5/8" is kinda large, but will look nice and beefy under the chassis.
The smaller ones are just 1/4" heims, I figured that was more then enough for the steering and panards.

This is fun stuff, my first off road chassis build. I have modified plenty of motorcycle frames and built one off parts, but never a chassis from scratch. Might have to tackle a real one some day ;-)
#40930
Also a update on the steering. I was trying to get more range, and had bought a servo stretcher from servo city. I could not get the thing to work though, and it was killing me. I came to realize I wasnt even getting the 90 degrees I was supposed to off the secondary wheel. I kept messing with it and thought it was my traxxas tq4's settings. After messing with it for a while I finally stripped one of the gears in the servo. While the 805mg is "metal Gear", there is one plastic gear still! WTF? the first gear off the motor itself is still plastic. Maybe this is a fail safe so you dont burn the motor? Either way I came to realize when I opened the gearbox that there is a metal set pin on the final drive gear which doesnt allow it to rotate past about 90 degrees! darn! So this whole time I wasnt getting even close to the rotation I could have. Which in turn stressed the plastic gear and stripped it. It was my mistake because looking back and the instructions for the servo gearbox installation I overlooked the step which called to remove the set pin! While that is really frustrating, I am very happy that I will finally get this figured out and be able to get full steering from the servo!

Luckily there is a awesome hobby shop pretty close to me which sells the gear sets for these servos. So I am going to pick one up today and replace the stripped gear. So I am probably going to throw the body back on and let my son play with it while I start the chassis fab.
I will report how the steering works out now that I read the instructions fully! DOH!
#41056
Well I wouldnt go that far, there are a lot of amazing builds on here. I do hope for it to be pretty formidable when I am done though.
Too many things going on today to sneak away, hoping for some time tomorrow. My servo did come in, as well as the 24v scooter charger and plug. This way I can just plug it into the stock socket location for charging rather then opening the false engine each time. I'd rather my son not get to used to poking around under there.

Also got word from Hootie that my parts were sent from Peg, woo hoo :-) Cant wait.
#41162
I put the functioning parts back together today. I felt bad my son has been wanting to ride it, and I was looking forward to seeing the steering functioning in full range. It works great now, I can turn the steering to full lock each way. Its a little slower then what you would want, but thats just the nature of the rack and pinion I suppose.

I am waiting to paint the rest till I see what the new parts look like. I ordered some red parts from the rock'n gaucho like hood latches and exhaust shrouds. I want to match it as close as I can for some of the other parts. I felt bad my son has been wanting to ride it, and I was looking forward to seeing the steering functioning in full range. So we took a test run this evening, it worked great. Had a little hiccup with the chain slipping, but that was just a oversight on my part. It was easily fixed.

Here is how she stands right now. Nothing but the body and dash on for now. I also added some commercial grade grip tape to the sides. Even though its bedliner, I thought this would add some more durability to the paint when climbing in and out. Also it covers 3 small holes on each side which were previously covered by the stock decals.

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I installed the scooter charging port where the peg charging port was. Just had to enlarge it a little with a step drill. This makes charging very easy and is neat that its under the actual gas cap. I put quick disconnects to on so I can easily pull the body off for service, ect(wrapped them in electrical tape also to prevent the chance of a accidental short).

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#41287
Had some free time this afternoon and got a chance to start my chassis fabrication.

I was able to get the main frame of the chassis squared up and finish welded. I took my time on this to get it right as everything will be built off of this.
First off I am a novice, self taught tig welder. Most of my welding has been with 1/4 inch to 3/8" material, so it took me a little bit to get find the sweet spot with the pedal on this 0.060" tube. Man theres something about tig welding that I love, its so tedious, but so rewarding. I am not near skilled enough to lay a stack of dimes down, but they are pretty uniform and definitely strong.

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The first couple passes were a little "fat", but they got better as I got used to the material.

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Last edited by Jornum1 on Fri Oct 21, 2011 3:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#41350
87jeepwrangler wrote:awesome. looks great.

question unrelated to your current progress. will servocity sell just the gears from their servo kits?


Thanks, I am having a blast building this.

Yes they sell the gears from the kits. They are pretty pricey though. If I were to do it again I might have just made my own which is what your thinking I am guessing. If I didnt have my setup finished, and its technically hidden under the false engine I would. I have it sorta "rigged" right now, but its solid and works. Just not that pretty.

Here are the servo gears
http://www.servocity.com/html/servo_mount_gears.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And here are the hub gears
http://www.servocity.com/html/hub_mount_gears.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
#41769
My parts came in from ML-Toyz yesterday, lots of goodies

New seat covers, wheel covers, hub caps, mirrors, antenna, hood latches, exhaust shrouds, fender flares, headlight and side marker lenses, and a radio
Plus two rzr/polaris 800 motors and GB's!

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Now I can move forward with my front axle. First step is figuring out how to adapt the new Gb's to the front wheels. I have a few ideas, but wont know for sure until I get them next to each other.

Also fabbed up my cross member and welded it up. I used a piece of 1/4" x 1 1/2". Its a little overkill, but I didnt have anything thinner in the right width laying around. The two smaller holes(1/2") are where the heim joints will be installed.

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Here are some pics of how she stands with some of the new parts installed

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#41905
ME LIKE! :lol: :lol:


Anxiously droolin......ah...waiting for more :lol: ;)




Just for ha-ha's.......any kind of Id numbers on those Super Power motors? They look real close to those Banebots ones I've been using.
#41913
87jeepwrangler wrote:loving the style on that crossmember :D


he he, thanks ;-)
Like I said earlier I dont have any experience in 4x4 suspension/chassis's. So I am basically taking your build, Taz's, and Scoutman's as my examples. I am using all of your builds and picking what I like from each and adding my own twist.


Taz, thanks, here is a pic of the motor close up.

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I believe I have a plan of attack for adapting the GB to the front wheels. I am going to use a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate to adapt the two together. More info on that to come.

I decided to go with a metallic silver as my secondary color. Its supposed to be a stainless steel look, but its more of a metallic flake silver. Looks awesome next to the black. I still plan to add in little bits of red, but trying to decide where. The dash, fake exhaust, and some of the roll bar is next. Then i will decide on the red accents.

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#41935
Here is my plan for adapting the RZR GB to the SP wheel. While I wan to adapt it, I also am trying to keep it as close to the wheel as possible.

This is the inside of the SP wheel. the bushing for the axle can be removed, and I am going to cut the endge of the center hole flush.

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This is the RZR driver. The splined end goes into the GB. I am going to cut down the thickness of the wheel side to about a 1/4".

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This is the model of the adapter I came up with. The ouside slots will key into the large circles on the wheel, and the inside slots will fit into the GB's driver. Pretty simple.

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Here is where I am at with the piece, I am just getting it laid out for cutting. I will use a 1 1/2" hole saw for the center, and the bandsaw/jigsaw for the rest.

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#41977
Been a busy bee today ;-)

I was able to cut out and fit my adapter plate. Unfortunately I realized I did not have any metal jig saw blades, so I could not cut out the notches for the GB driver side. But as you can see it looks like this will work out nicely.
The large circles on the outside have some flex to them, so I may make some aluminum plugs and epoxy them inside for strength.

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Just need to cut out the notches for the inside

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couldnt resist putting some more of the freshly painted parts on. She's getting there! Next are to paint the seats, steering wheel trim, hood hinges, ect red to match the hood latches and exhaust covers.

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Last edited by Jornum1 on Thu Oct 27, 2011 3:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#42555
following up from our discussion in PMs, here's a quick picture of what i think you are talking about.

does this look right?
jornum.jpg


am i close?

if so, i'd be a little concerned with the wall thickness of the square tube where the axle meets. the outer most wall of the square tube may start to bend under load. if you could drill a hole through both sides of the square so the axle attaches at both sides to spread the load, i'd think that would hold up forever. the two downfalls would be that you couldn't use a single 1/2" bolt all the way through the knuckle, and there will be the small weld where the axle meets the 1" square, pushing your wheel/GB out the thickness of the weld.


edit:
you can replace the square with a piece of round 1/2" pipe. machine the ID to accept a bushing top and bottom, and just weld the axle on the pipe. pipe has a much thicker wall than your 1" square you are using.
Last edited by 87jeepwrangler on Thu Nov 03, 2011 3:36 pm, edited 3 times in total.
#42613
87jeepwrangler wrote:
edit:
you can replace the square with a piece of round 1/2" pipe. machine the ID to accept a bushing top and bottom, and just weld the axle on the pipe. pipe has a much thicker wall than your 1" square you are using.


Thats almost exactly what I was planning to do, but use some 1" pipe and bore it to 1/2" ID. That would give me a 1/8" wall which should be good, correct?

I was thinking I could add a 1/2" long, 3/4" diameter collar to weld onto the end of the axle to add more surface area for the knuckle/axle weld.

But I really want to keep the axle length as short as possible. I already need to add about 3" to accommodate the GB.
#42679
Jornum1 wrote:Thats almost exactly what I was planning to do, but use some 1" pipe and bore it to 1/2" ID. That would give me a 1/8" wall which should be good, correct?


if you are referring to pipe, as in schedule 40 steel black pipe, be careful. the sizes are not what you'd think. pipe is measured by the nominal size, and the ID changes depending on the schedule (sched 40, sched 80, etc). if you are referring to tube however, that is measured by OD, followed by wall thickness. an example would be 1" x .250 wall tube, which would be 1" OD, .5" ID.

the measurements for 1" pipe are 1.32" OD and 1.05" ID. you'd have to bore the inside smooth to an arbitrary size, then machine a bushing that would fit the ID of the machined pipe and have a 1/2" hole for the bolt to pivot on. that would be very strong.

if you got some 3/8 pipe on the other hand, the OD is .675" and the ID is a few thousands less than 1/2". you could ream the ID with a 1/2" drill, no bushings required. for a power wheel, i'd think this would be more than strong enough.

if you wanted to get fancy, onlinemetals.com has .75x.120 wall DOM tubing for like $4/foot that would be WAY overkill. other than cutting your pieces to length, no machining would be required.


Jornum1 wrote:I was thinking I could add a 1/2" long, 3/4" diameter collar to weld onto the end of the axle to add more surface area for the knuckle/axle weld.

But I really want to keep the axle length as short as possible. I already need to add about 3" to accommodate the GB.


if you use a 1/2" x 6" long bolt, that would give you the entire head of the bolt to weld to the knuckle. i don't think it's necessary if you are confident in your welds though. a good weld will be stronger than the root materials. but, a bolt head would give you a really large weldable area, and leave you with a clean machined face for your hub/wheel to ride on.
#42691
Ha, well wrong terminology and bad math on my part!
What I meant was using some 1" round bar for the knuckle. That would leave me with a 1/4" wall which will be way more then enough!
I stayed a 1/2 hour after work and started cutting and machining my pieces. I got one knuckle done, and the other rough cut. My U bracket is 1 1/2" wide and should be here Monday. I needed order some other parts from MFG supply and they were only $3 so I figured what the hell.
I am hoping to get some time tomorrow to finish them up and start on the one link.

I think my welding skills are good enough to make the joint strong enough then. Thank you for the confirmation.

The smaller rod in the picture is what will be my axles. 1/2" diameter, length is still to be decided.

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#42859
Got some more work done this weekend in between leaf duty ;-)

I fabbed up the main part of the front suspension. the overall length is still to be determined until I get the spindle, knuckle and bracket all put together. i want to try to keep the original wheelbase as close as possible.

Here are some pics of my progress

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The linkage and rod are only for reference. I will be using some round stock turned down to fit in the square tube. The other end will be turned down to 5/8" and threaded for the ball joint.

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I also finished the GB adapter. It works awesome. I still need to cut down the driver, and that will save me another 1/2".

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You can see here, the GB is only about 1 1/2" wider then the wheel. After I cut down the driver I should save another 1/2" or so.

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Also finished painting the red parts. I just need to paint the front and rear bumpers and the paint is done. I need one more can of bedliner.

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