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HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Use this area as your personal project pages or blog! Each thread belongs to one user as a project page!
User avatar
By RedDog
#44508
I bought a CL Jeep limited. I am planning the following mods.

24 volt

ESC

Hall effect throttle - for easy starts and extra life of gearboxes

throttle governor - speed limits and extend life of 12v motors

adding rubber to tires - traction and cushioning

replace push nuts with hitch pins - ease of repair/ assist with posi rear

A slimited slip rear end - traction, and i think help save gearboxes and motors,

when one wheel is off ground or spinning the other side has the load, hard on loaded side,,, when spinning tires hits ground again and gains traction, hard on spinning side GB. A limited slip //posi traction would share the load evenly on both tires this extending GB life, and giving extra power to a single wheel if it is carrying more load.


User avatar
By RedDog
#44513
Rubber floor mats interlocking from Home Depot recyled rubber just felt like the right combo of durable yet soft
rsz_img_0503.jpg
rsz_img_0503.jpg (41.75 KiB) Viewed 10547 times

Side view of the first pieces glued on with contact cement
rsz_img_0509.jpg
rsz_img_0509.jpg (55.5 KiB) Viewed 10547 times

here is the stock wheel i started with
IMG_0506.JPG
IMG_0506.JPG (58.77 KiB) Viewed 10547 times


Heres is all the new tread glued on
IMG_0515.JPG
IMG_0515.JPG (70.08 KiB) Viewed 10547 times

This is after I used 1 whole can of plastic dip spray
photo.JPG
photo.JPG (71.91 KiB) Viewed 10547 times


plastic dip made the sidewalls look like new but they now have a tire feel to them, and hopefully to helps seal the tread to teh plastic tire, if not I will add screws at teh first sign of tread loss.
newside.JPG
newside.JPG (42.98 KiB) Viewed 10547 times
User avatar
By RedDog
#44515
Parts are arriving, here is what I have so far
tnsreciept.jpg
TNC Receipt
tnsreciept.jpg (30.42 KiB) Viewed 10547 times
tnc24vcharger.jpg
TNC Charger 24 Volt
tnc24vcharger.jpg (35.78 KiB) Viewed 10547 times

tncesc27.jpg
TNC ECS LB27
tncesc27.jpg (31.38 KiB) Viewed 10547 times


tncmetalfootthrot.jpg
TNC MEtal Foot Hall Effect Throttle
tncmetalfootthrot.jpg (23.88 KiB) Viewed 10547 times



tncmisc.jpg
TNC MISC Parts
tncmisc.jpg (39.52 KiB) Viewed 10547 times
User avatar
By RedDog
#44516
More Parts


chromebatteryreciept.jpg
Chrome Battery Ebay
chromebatteryreciept.jpg (27.87 KiB) Viewed 10547 times


chrome battery batteries.jpg
12v 12ah Batteries from EBAY Chrome BAttery
chrome battery batteries.jpg (44.3 KiB) Viewed 10547 times
User avatar
By RedDog
#44796
Well finally got it working thanks to divinar for his help, treebeme and jparthum for the schematics and ideas.

I now have a variable speed 24 volt powerwheel. Hall effect throttle seems to work. I need to clean things up when i get home. i still have to get potentiomter and install it.

I did all the holes, useing a solder iron and razor knifes.
esc.jpg
electronic speed control from tnc scooters
esc.jpg (47.23 KiB) Viewed 10511 times
factoryshifter.jpg
factory shifter before i depinned the plugs to rewire
factoryshifter.jpg (47.78 KiB) Viewed 10511 times
frontbattery.jpg
I mounted one battery up front for balance, as well as circuit breaker for access
frontbattery.jpg (42.95 KiB) Viewed 10511 times
key.jpg
mounted key here because the wires would reach ecs. Hole made useing solder iron and razor
key.jpg (46.69 KiB) Viewed 10511 times
Last edited by RedDog on Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By RedDog
#44802
more pics I got this stuff from this tread viewtopic.php?f=46&t=2819
STATIC - No Accessories.png
Wiring diagram I used
STATIC - No Accessories.png (137.87 KiB) Viewed 10510 times
DPDTrelay.JPG
relays terminals ID
DPDTrelay.JPG (13.24 KiB) Viewed 10510 times
DPDTrelay2.JPG
actual realy with terminals markings used
DPDTrelay2.JPG (44.07 KiB) Viewed 10510 times
User avatar
By RedDog
#44804
more pics of wiring night
leftfront.jpg
shot of JEEP with modded tire, before i stripped all the decals
leftfront.jpg (52 KiB) Viewed 10509 times
oldthrottle.jpg
this is stock PW throttle switch
oldthrottle.jpg (52.99 KiB) Viewed 10509 times
newbrake.jpg
redid stock throttle to use as new brake pedal
newbrake.jpg (24 KiB) Viewed 10509 times
side.jpg
side view, modded tire is on left front
side.jpg (53.43 KiB) Viewed 10509 times
User avatar
By aVWguy
#44808
how easily is the rubber material cut and applied??? i have been considering this for a few of my projects but wasnt sure on those two points or the proper adhiesive to make them stay put and not fall off :lol:
User avatar
By RedDog
#44809
The brake and throttle are a little to close. I will need to redo them later.
pedalcover.jpg
I taped over existing holes, and cut another hole for metal hall effect throttle
pedalcover.jpg (36.23 KiB) Viewed 10508 times
pedalnotches.jpg
I had to knotch the floor for the metal throttle to sit down in. The plastic one would be easier to mount for sure
pedalnotches.jpg (40.24 KiB) Viewed 10508 times
pedals.jpg
i first moved the brake to the left, then realized there would not be much room for the left foot. I plan on fixing this when I get home with a sheet of plastic
pedals.jpg (39.43 KiB) Viewed 10508 times
Last edited by RedDog on Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By RedDog
#44810
realys.jpg
realys.jpg (47.81 KiB) Viewed 10508 times
rearbattery.jpg
rearbattery.jpg (50.57 KiB) Viewed 10508 times
relaymounting.jpg
relaymounting.jpg (40.19 KiB) Viewed 10508 times
User avatar
By RedDog
#44835
Rubber was easy to cut. I actually bought a Hd scissors set, but ended up useing the smaller regular ones the most. ZTo glue I used contact cement, put a two good coats on tire, and on rubber, wait 20 and stick. I wrapped mine with cardboard and ratchet strap, and let it set for a few days.

Then I used a whole can of plasti dip spray and sprayed everything. Not sure how any of this will hold up
User avatar
By RedDog
#45481
ok i did a few more things.

i tried to paint the bumpers. Bad idea. I tried rustoleam chrome, just cleaned and painted, dosnt look good, i think i will wait until i get home to the garage to try it.
chromefar.jpg
chromefar.jpg (41.49 KiB) Viewed 10423 times
chromespot.jpg
chromespot.jpg (30.6 KiB) Viewed 10423 times
chromeclose.jpg
chromeclose.jpg (33.53 KiB) Viewed 10423 times
Should have researched it first, starting with below post

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=4265&p=45473#p45473


Also went to Harbor freight and picked up two mini spot modded them per below post. Actually had one of each type, and process works. I just cut a hole behind the stock headlights and stripped the lights down to lights and reflectors. Just set in in there and snapped lens back in.

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=4077
lights.jpg
lights.jpg (37.09 KiB) Viewed 10423 times
spotlight.jpg
spotlight.jpg (25.82 KiB) Viewed 10423 times

I also put in a new floor. i found these drip pans at lowe's. They are for like welcome mats or to set your boots and stuff in. but they have black diamond plate bottoms. Also painted the pedals so the youngun can learn green means go red means stop.
newfloor.jpg
newfloor.jpg (47.04 KiB) Viewed 10423 times
User avatar
By RedDog
#45619
thanks.

right now i have a couple of dilemas

to paint or not, plastic has some fade on one side, heaqt gun left it marbled, but i kinda dig the metalic green color. Also when i washed it i lost all exterier stickers. I cant find them anywhere so i would have to mask off the dash to save then or it will look really cheap.

also i think my daughter may have trouble steering it, she is just over 2 1/2 so i am debating if i want to put a lawn mower rack and pinion in it. I will have to wait til i get it outside and see how hard it is to turn. Inside on carpet with no room to roll, it is pretty tough.
User avatar
By wkearney99
#45898
The flat, wide wheels are harder to turn. If I had to guess I'd say they went with them because they might wear a little better than the older narrower kind. Or maybe it was just for looks. Your traction mods won't make it easier either, but may be worth it outside (I'm looking forward to hearing how they handle wear).
User avatar
By RedDog
#45990
i would like to add a quick update for anyone reading this and planning to try it. No need to use the 10 gauge wire i did.

I did it because someone else did, and I was thinking automotive. in auto's you run heavy wire from battery to solenoid and solenoid to load, small wires from solenoid to switch.

This setup the most you can move is what is coming into the solenoid which is from the ESC, which is a 12 gauge wire. Using 10 gauge wire in this case is like building a highway where bridges are 2 lanes, but I will make the rest 8 lanes. The traffic still has to pass the bridges.

Anyhow, it wont hurt, but after i got started i realized if i did it again I would stick with a 12 max, and probably just use 14. The battery wires going into the ESC are small as well.

The regular size wire is cheaper, and easier to bend and such, it was difficult the way I mounted mine and it got crowded quick.

Just a thought for anyone doing this in the future.

here are some charts that verify this
viewtopic.php?f=40&t=4875
I have a 30 amp breaker so limited to 30 amps, 14 gauge can handle that pretty easy.
Last edited by RedDog on Fri Dec 02, 2011 11:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By wkearney99
#46226
Bear in mind when you use thinner wire you introduce the potential for voltage drop and having the wires heat up. Maybe more than half a volt dropped from 12v using 14ga. Voltage drop occurs over distance and smaller wires. Having a short segment of 12ga or 14ga is not the same as having all of it that way. And note distance is total, both positive AND negative for the whole circuit. I've not taken a ruler to it but if I had to guess the total circuit ends up being just shy of 6 feet.

It's also possible to get right-angled crimp-on connectors for relays. That can make it easier to route the wires.

So yeah, it probably wouldn't cause any great harm to use 12ga instead of 10. Not sure I'd skimp to just 14 though.
User avatar
By RedDog
#46560
People should use the charts in the faq's viewtopic.php?f=40&t=5973 on this project I was well within the 14 gauge specs.

And the second point is using large wire then passing through the small wire at the ESC, is making the ECS wire a fuse. All a fuse is, is a small wire that can only handle a certain load.

All I am saying is If i did this again, I would measure the battery input and motor output wires on the ESC. And actually measure the wire not the insulation. And go one size bigger and that would be it.

I also agree with another post that suggested you could use cat 5 or phone wire from pedals and switches. My pedal came with nice long wires, and i used existing wires for brake.
User avatar
By RedDog
#48902
here are so pics. BTW tires holding up so far, and daughter can steer, a little hard but she can

I made myself a limited slip rear end. I used pins to hold the wheels on axles, i cut the hubcaps so that the pin sits down in, and when the motor turn the wheel if one wheel is spinning faster then the other, it will slip until the knob the thaqt wheel adn the knob on the opposite wheel hit the spoke of the hubcap that i did not knotch out.

I think this will serve differant purposes. if one wheel loses traction or is off the ground, both motors will powere the remaining wheel.

whne that wheel regains traction it willnot be a stress to that gearbox

also if one wheel is driving the whole PW thats a lot of stress, this way both gearboxes carry the load

php8ISAqpPM.jpg
i cut knotches in 4 of the 5 spokes so that the knob that sticks out of the wheel will catch but only after the axle makes almost a full revolution
php8ISAqpPM.jpg (35.91 KiB) Viewed 10093 times
phpZs8OJOPM.jpg
grooves in the hubcaps hold the cotter pins and spin the axle which then trys to spin the other hubcap
phpZs8OJOPM.jpg (38.39 KiB) Viewed 10093 times
phpgr86gsPM.jpg
phpgr86gsPM.jpg (30.54 KiB) Viewed 10093 times
Last edited by RedDog on Thu Dec 29, 2011 4:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By RedDog
#48908
I added some led lights from nik on here. i put in 4 3 led strips in each tail light, but ended up only using 3. 1 for taillights 2 for brake lights
phpY4T98dPM.jpg
phpY4T98dPM.jpg (54.7 KiB) Viewed 10093 times
phpbswi84PM.jpg
phpbswi84PM.jpg (47.61 KiB) Viewed 10093 times
phpd5VeCTPM.jpg
phpd5VeCTPM.jpg (44.85 KiB) Viewed 10093 times
phpg8TDKdPM.jpg
phpg8TDKdPM.jpg (45.89 KiB) Viewed 10093 times
Attachments
php0cV5MjPM.jpg
php0cV5MjPM.jpg (47.97 KiB) Viewed 10093 times
User avatar
By RedDog
#58274
everything is workinng out great. lights are still off a bit. I was getting 24v and then moved wires around to get 12 so light go out in high i think. but overall the concept works great.
User avatar
By madmaxdecals
#59546
I would love to see some videos of this jeep in action...did you stay with the 16t gearboxes in the jeep?
By gbforever2001
#60334
Hey Everyone,

I am new to the modified power wheel community. I have acquired a jeep wrangler and would like to make it 24V. I have seen the shopping list from TNC Scooter on here earlier, but do you have thee entire shopping list on what to buy and where you got is from? I would like to make the guts close to identical to the one you are building because it looks right and safe for my kids to drive. Please let me know, thanks!
User avatar
By RedDog
#100408
My daughter finnally got to a point where she can drive this thing, and it died !!!!!

Any diagnostic ideas?

The brake pedal is activating its solenoid, lights work etc, I am thinking throttle or ESC
User avatar
By daveweber34
#100414
Are you using the brake connectors from the LBD-14 to activate the brakes and brake lights? If so, you have most likely smoked your controller. You must run the brake circuit through a separate relay not connected to the controller for safety reasons. See these two threads:

viewtopic.php?f=46&t=2819&start=200 Check middle of page five.
viewtopic.php?f=46&t=10357
User avatar
By RedDog
#100420
yes i do/did

and that part seems to be working fine, just no throttle controll.

Thank you for the links I have looked through them

Am I missing it, or has no one found a way to repair the esc ??

so i gues it is back to work

order a new esc and fix the wireing


It could use a going over anyways, i noticed that the tail lights are always on, and do not remember wiring them that way. And the lighted switch i use for the headlights only works (the lighted portion) in low and reverse.
User avatar
By daveweber34
#100439
At this point, posting the wiring diagram of your layout would be best. Then, we (the community) will know exactly what you have going on. Also, do not expect too much more help from me. I am in the middle of moving and depart on Tuesday.
User avatar
By RedDog
#100464
I did not draw this one of you did, but I wired it like this MINUS reverse lights.

anyone have an updated one with the NEW WAY to wire in the brakes?
Attachments
STATIC.png
STATIC.png (175.79 KiB) Viewed 7486 times
User avatar
By RedDog
#100476
i ordered a lbd14 on its way

I have an extra solenoid abnd some resistors from original build

I will try to decipher tommorrow how to fix the brake wireing issue mentioned
By soulstice
#100489
Your tire solution is ingenious!

Really great documentation of the project as well, looking forward to following the progress.
User avatar
By toycrusher
#100572
I'm watching your build carefully because I'll be going into a triple ESC setup soon. The above diagram is quite confusing. I'm not sure what the advantage is to using the DPDT relays over normal 5 pin relays? Is that diagram still allowing for a low AND high speed?
User avatar
By toycrusher
#101007
Is low necessary with an ESC?
By gratefuldad
#101011
Hey RedDog, Just saw where you where asking about how to modify the diagram above to by-pass the ESC's Brake connectors. You're basically going to send a 12v pos. feed to your brake pedal (Normally Open Pins) and then bring it back to the RY1 DPDT Coil. And then get the 12v neg. to the other Coil contact. So when the Brake pedal is depressed the DPDT Relay is switched from Normally Closed to Open position allowing the o Motors to short through the Brake Resistor. Taz has a good write-up on what you are doing under the ESC Section, I think it's called "Simple ESC Braking" or something like that.
Sorry, I would have chimed in earlier, but I saw daveweber34 on and forgot how close he was to his Transfer.
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