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HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Use this area as your personal project pages or blog! Each thread belongs to one user as a project page!
User avatar
By Battman2036
#74153
started with a toasty Barbie Cruisin Tunes. It was definitely wore out, but for $30.00 a good starting point. The first thing was to prep for paint. After telling me he wasn't going to drive a pink car, my son decided he wanted a Ranger Jeep "like the police guys". We are going with a park police / ranger theme. So far so good. I'm planning to add lights and siren and to upgrade to 18v. We have others he can drive in the mean time. I'm going to post as it proceeds. Let me know your thoughts or critiques. nothing will offend and I'm always open to ideas.

Step 1: dis-assembly, cleaning and paint prep
Step 2: Rustoleum Paint Plus 2x primer
Step 3: Rustoleum Paint Plus 2x paint
Step 3.5: Clear coat in progress
Step 4: graphics

this is as far as I've come yet. I have the brake pedal wired and mounted, but won't know if it's right until I begin putting it back together. I took the radio out and will be using the housing for switches.
Attachments
Jeep 2.JPG
before
Jeep 2.JPG (110.94 KiB) Viewed 8751 times
primer.JPG
Primer
primer.JPG (184.2 KiB) Viewed 8751 times
body.jpg
body in forest green and black
body.jpg (228.85 KiB) Viewed 8751 times
dash.jpg
dash board with radio cover
dash.jpg (162.49 KiB) Viewed 8751 times
seats.jpg
seats in a tan color
seats.jpg (184.74 KiB) Viewed 8751 times
dash board.jpg
dash board graphics
dash board.jpg (69.61 KiB) Viewed 8751 times
graphics sheet.jpg
a few extra badges just in case.
graphics sheet.jpg (216.03 KiB) Viewed 8751 times


User avatar
By bruces_eviltwin
#74155
looks impressive so far!
User avatar
By madmaxdecals
#74298
Very nice...I like the color scheme
User avatar
By daveweber34
#74309
I like the colors. They go together very well. The two-tone taping pattern that you used is exactly the way I'm taping my current paint project. I'm glad to see it looks good on yours. It gives me some confidence in how mine will turn out.
User avatar
By taz11
#74323
bruces_eviltwin wrote:looks impressive so far!
+1


How did you do the graphics?
Last edited by taz11 on Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By madmaxdecals
#74325
taz11 wrote:
bruces_eviltwin wrote:looks impressive so far!
+1


How did you do the graphics?
He is a Graphic Designer :D
User avatar
By Battman2036
#74327
taz11 wrote:
bruces_eviltwin wrote:looks impressive so far!
+1


How did you do the graphics?
I use a program called Flexisign Pro, and did have a sign company for a few years. The graphics are being printed on a dye sublimation printer that is used to make decals for fleet cars etc.. I may clear over them, but they come with a UV coating.

Thanks for the comments. The lift kit should be here today so it'll be off to paint for that. Then it's wait some more for the lights and siren systems.
User avatar
By Battman2036
#74400
Got a lift kit from TAZ11 today. I'm short the bumper and didn't think to ask about it. (never had a lift kit). Primered, painted, and clear coated. Next up is finishing the paint / clear on the body before beginning reassembly.
Attachments
photo 2.JPG
photo 2.JPG (163.6 KiB) Viewed 8681 times
photo 1.JPG
photo 1.JPG (136.85 KiB) Viewed 8681 times
User avatar
By taz11
#74431
madmaxdecals wrote:
taz11 wrote:
bruces_eviltwin wrote:looks impressive so far!
+1


How did you do the graphics?
He is a Graphic Designer :D

Unfair advantage..... :P :P :P ;)
User avatar
By Battman2036
#74547
Small hiccup today, I started clearing the body when I noticed a thin layer of white dust all over it. After wiping it down and coating again I found the same thing....then I looked at the can an it read MATTE FINISH. aaarghhh. Trip to home depot for more I guess. I'm going to try covering an unseen area to determine if I have to sand it again. I used matte black on the lift kit and the clear GLOSS turned it into a real cool charcoal color. Depending on the light, it kinda of changes from a purple to gray color.
User avatar
By daveweber34
#74566
So, the base colors were matte instead of flat? Clear gloss didn't go well over that?
User avatar
By Battman2036
#74621
The clear coat I used yesterday was Matte on top of gloss paint....not good. As for the other parts, I used matte finish paint and gloss clear. looks different
User avatar
By daveweber34
#74656
Battman2036 wrote:The clear coat I used yesterday was Matte on top of gloss paint....not good. As for the other parts, I used matte finish paint and gloss clear. looks different
Shows what I know. I thought Gloss was the only clear coat available. What the heck would a matte clear coat be used for? Make something look smokey?

Also, I can't point to a specific place, I remember Defensive Wound being very explicit in stating that the base coats should be flat paints and the clear coat gloss. This way, the clear coat will be what makes it reflective and it helps to hide any defects in the body. If you use a gloss base paint + clear coat, the glossiness of the base paint will show off the defects in the plastic more than using flat + gloss clear coat.

Ok, I found it anyways. It is all in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1630


Specifically:
DefensiveWound wrote:STOOOOOOP! DO NOT put clear coat over the Gloss White. It will not turn out good; it tends to get a cloudy look and even end up looking dull. Use Flat White base with the clear over it and it will look ten times better. Hope I caught you in time.
User avatar
By gwinnythepooh
#74663
That is true, if at all possible, especially on white and black a satin under gloss clear will turn out 100X better!

The matte clear would be good in instances like the seat. I like the seat to be matte, to give somewhat of a different illusion, like leather maybe.
User avatar
By Battman2036
#75387
I've been assembling yet more parts for this thing. I'm starting to feel like Frankenstein. I ordered a roll of flat LED strip http://www.ebay.com/itm/120966043814?ss ... 007wt_1037 ,
waiting on a tube style front bumper to arrive from PW Warehouse, ordered some strobe LED's http://www.ebay.com/itm/180888677478?ss ... 321wt_1037, which they are sending in red and blue for me, bought some $2.00 taillights, bought two harbor freight mini spots for the headlights and finally CJB's turbo timer.

I gutted the taillights and dremeled down the insides to accept the strip LED's. I then soldered a few strips together and viola, LED taillights for under $3.00. As an experiment, I used some old model paint for coloring light bars or clear plastic and turned two small strips into red and blue. They seem to work. I'm going to try to find either yellow paint or translucent vinyl for a body glow kit. My hope is the vinyl will act as a guard as well as color. Nothing I'm doing is original, but.....it's fun. And now for the pictures.

This is the mini-spot after figuring out the wiring on the back. The model is different slightly from the others shown in the forum, but they lead me to a fast solution:
Image
Image
a little coating to keep the wires from breaking and to maybe help with moisture?
Image
Image
this is the taillight with the LED strips inside. a total of 6 strips for 18 LEDs
Image
Image
Image
Last but not least my experimental sample strips for the color change. these LED's are all white and a single drop of paint did the trick
Image

Small EDIT:

the photos were taken with my iphone. the lights look a bit brighter in person, but the camera on the phone it too good at "fixing" the images when snapping shots. :roll:
Last edited by Battman2036 on Wed Aug 29, 2012 3:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By SAHDman
#75389
What did you use to paint those strips? Are you concerned at all about heat burning the paint off?
User avatar
By Battman2036
#75410
Image
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.p ... t-id=81027

It's used by a lot of diecast police car modelers who often put lights on them. since the LED's don't put out much for heat, and the paint is water soluble, I'm not concerned. I thought about hooking up the strip to some batteries over night, but I'm out of AA's. I'm not sure what the coating is over the diode, but i assume it's some form of plastic which should insulate the paint. I have seen complaints about it chipping when brushed on, but I'm not doing more than one coat and I'm probably using too much. either way, kinda cool.
User avatar
By Battman2036
#75605
worked on the lights some more tonight. Finished the taillights and installed the headlights in the grill. I've also toyed with the idea of wig-wag lights and connected them tonight to give it a look. Not sure if I will go this route since I'd have to figure out a way to activate the flasher circuit when the red and blue lights come on to switch them from constant on to flash. I'm thinking a relay.

this is the video of the wig-wags running
http://s1093.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... s.mp4.html

and the lights installed
Image
User avatar
By Battman2036
#75785
For any of you electrical geniuses, please take a look at this and tell me if I'm wrong. I want the headlights (HL) and Taillights (TL) to be on via a switch and when the police lights are activated, I want the HL and TL to engage via the flasher controls. I'm hoping it will work as I've drawn it. :?

Image
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#75869
What kind of flashers are you using?

The drawing looks like it will work, but when using two flashers you will loose the wig wag lighting effect by not having the same flash sequence with each one. In other words, the left and right lights will start flashing together like standard hazard lights, then gradually lose sync then start alternating. After X many flash cycles they will start flashing together again.

Another option would be to use a DPDT (ON/OFF/ON) switch. It will allow this to be done with a single flasher and relay. This way will keep the two stage alternating pattern in sync with a steady on/off flash.

If you wire the lights in a X pattern with the right front and left rear as one circuit. You will have an alternating flash from left to right and from front to back.
User avatar
By Battman2036
#75880
I got the flasher units from autoilumination.com . They are for flashing taillight/brakes. I'm using two so I get that together then out of sync effect. I did the x pattern in the video, and completely spaced it when I drew the diagram :oops: . Thanks for pointing that out otherwise I would have had a bit of issue once installed. I'm not seeing the alternative you mentioned (in my head). I planned on using an actual wig wag circuit, but by the time I built it I would have more money than what the two flasher's cost. Can you explain a bit more about the switch and relay. That would allow me to save one flasher for another project. Thanks for looking this over. my skills are basic at best.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#75929
This is what I'm talking about
Driving lights with integrated X Pattern two stage flasher.gif
Driving lights with integrated X Pattern two stage flasher.gif (17.34 KiB) Viewed 8430 times
For this set up I used a two wire universal no load LED flasher. I like the one in the link below but anything like it should work.
LF1-S-PIN
SPECIFICATIONS

If you want to power the strobe controller at the same time. Catch its B+ on pin six at the ON/OFF/ON switch. if not add an ON/OFF switch for it.

BTW: This is a very nice build!! ;)
User avatar
By Battman2036
#75938
thank you very much. This didn't make sense until I saw it. This is definitely much simpler and cleaner than the octopus I designed. I'm a visual learner apparently. you eliminated one component and a switch and about 5 feet of wire. I like this much better. Guess it's back to the auto store tomorrow.

I don't know if anyone's suggested this, but you should post all your diagrams into a single thread/location. I've been saving them as I come across them.

Tomorrow is day two of reassembly for the body, and drive harness.
User avatar
By madmaxdecals
#76341
I don't know if anyone's suggested this, but you should post all your diagrams into a single thread/location. I've been saving them as I come across them.


+1
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#76439
Sound like a good idea. Let me see what I can put together.

The funny thing is most of my drawings are done on the fly. Example: The drawing I posted for you did not exist 5 minutes prior to posting. So you would of had a hard time finding it.
Last edited by 12vwiz on Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By Battman2036
#76459
Hence the reason for opening a location where all of them can be found. I realize ti would be a bit of extra work, but worth it to thos of us looking for some electrical advice. I'd also suggest a few others could do the same.
User avatar
By daveweber34
#77350
Can I get a head-on shot of how the two-tone paint merges from the fender flair into the front bumper? By the blinker recess?

I would like to see how that looks since I am thinking of doing a very similar paint job and I'm finally virtually done with the sanding.
User avatar
By Battman2036
#77362
I'll post it when I get home. I've reinstalled the grill with ligts and am working on wiring now. Still have a few parts to receive, but it's coming along.
User avatar
By daveweber34
#77628
I like how that looks. Thank you.
Last edited by daveweber34 on Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By landon
#77640
daveweber34 wrote:Can I get a head-on shot of how the two-tone paint merges from the fender flair into the front bumper? By the blinker recess?

I would like to see how that looks since I am thinking of doing a very similar paint job and I'm finally virtually done with the sanding.
Not trying to hijack... But the two-toned paint job is pretty similar to the OSU jeeps I did a few months ago. Don't know if it'll help, but check them out if you want: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=7312
User avatar
By Battman2036
#77707
I love the third color as a separation stripe. That looks awesome. As I noted before, nothing I'm doing is original. I'm a bit late to the party for that. 8-)
User avatar
By Battman2036
#77738
It's Rustoleum 2x Paint. I get it at Home Depot. It's supposed to cover both plastic and metals. so far it works great. No wrinkling, one coat coverage, but limited to the colors on hand.
User avatar
By madmaxdecals
#78174
Looking good!
User avatar
By Battman2036
#78187
thank you. Started the wiring and have to order the siren yet. I've also had a few setbacks with mounting the strobe controller and the switches into the old radio housing. I should've fit everything before the paint, but I was a bit over zealous.
User avatar
By Battman2036
#99190
Ding Dong this jeep is dead. After a harsh winter, poor storage location, and three very careless boys, I've pulled it apart. Kept what i needed and trashed the rest. It's the donor for a new project involving a solstice. A bit dissapointed after all the work, but the brightside is the electronics are plug and play now.
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