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KidsWheels
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HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Adding R/C to your Powerwheels vehicles? Using R/C parts on your Powerwheels?
User avatar
By sall
#132309
So, as this addiction continues I would really like to build an RC car to drive around :lol:. Strictly for myself with no rider just to whiz around the yard while little man rides all his toys. I know there are Chinese 12V RC ride ons available such as this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12Volt-RC-Batte ... =undefined

Now will I be highly disappointed with this? Can it be up-volted and still work reliably? Should I just wait until I find my next freebie PW Unibody and throw the same amount of money into it and build it with my own two hands? Of course that is most of the fun in itself. When there is an off the shelf product it is kind of a toss up decision though...

Look forward to hearing some thoughts/opinions. Thanks!
Last edited by sall on Thu May 28, 2015 7:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By toycrusher
#132330
You can definitely modify those pretty easily, however they do not offer variable control, it's on/off throttle and on/off steering input. Kinda like the old computer driving games using the keyboard. Not very precise....
By dalcant757
#132352
I hear it's pretty frustrating trying to drive one of those. I believe there is no automatic return to neutral steering when you let go of the steering input. You have to manually steer in the other direction to get it back to going straight after a turn.
User avatar
By sall
#132373
Yeah. Just doesn't seem like the right choice! A free or cheap JEEP can be made RC for not much more than buying one of those. A guy is supposed to drop me off a JEEP this evening. Then I will start collecting parts! :D
User avatar
By toycrusher
#132374
May want to count cost. A proper rc build can cost several hundred dollars if you don't have access to used parts
User avatar
By sall
#132386
toycrusher wrote:May want to count cost. A proper rc build can cost several hundred dollars if you don't have access to used parts


I have already priced various parts. Looked at several builds here and on the net elsewhere. Let's hope for the best!
User avatar
By sall
#132421
Anyone use anything other than the Firgelli actuators? I can't seem to find many 2" stroke in a speed more than about 12mm per second. Where their's are full 2" stroke per second. I don't think 12mm per second is going to be quite fast enough.
User avatar
By sall
#132452
dalcant757 wrote:I'm using a firgelli 4" stroke. Any reason why you wouldn't go with the Firgelli? With the LAC board, it's all pretty much plug and play.


No reason in particular. Just would like to see other options available.

I did take a brief look at your build thread. You were originally going to go with the 2" stroke and went with 4". Any reason to steer me toward the longer stroke actuator? I see most using a two inch stroke. Also the LAC board is used for returning the actuator to center? Correct me if wrong. As I mentioned this is all new territory for me. However, I am a quick learner :D
Last edited by sall on Thu May 28, 2015 7:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By Trip2013
#132520
I bought a brand new Escalade then went for a full RC mod on it.

Firgelli 2" linear 150 lbs
Lac Board
Mamba ESC
Fly sky GT2b

Numerous hours of tinkering and soldering to get it right. I have at least 500 in parts plus the car purchase. There are places like Harbour freight, Princess auto in Canada that do sell a actuator but they are nearly the same cost as a Firgelli but not a plug and play. All depends on the budget
User avatar
By sall
#132526
Any reason for the 150lb actuator that would steer me toward going more than 35lb most are using? No rider here... but the 150lb and 200lb are the same price it looks. However, they are not as fast. Specs show 150 @ 0.5" per second.

Also, I see many using RC ESC versus products like sabertooth 2x25 or 2x32 or SyRen 50. Is 12v fast enough for the RC power wheel without a driver? The RC ESC seem to have a voltage threshold of 16V vs 24-30v for the others mentioned. Leaving room for upgrade is always desirable.


Trip2013 wrote:I bought a brand new Escalade then went for a full RC mod on it.

Firgelli 2" linear 150 lbs
Lac Board
Mamba ESC
Fly sky GT2b

Numerous hours of tinkering and soldering to get it right. I have at least 500 in parts plus the car purchase. There are places like Harbour freight, Princess auto in Canada that do sell a actuator but they are nearly the same cost as a Firgelli but not a plug and play. All depends on the budget
Last edited by sall on Sun May 31, 2015 1:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.
By dalcant757
#132539
sall wrote:
dalcant757 wrote:I'm using a firgelli 4" stroke. Any reason why you wouldn't go with the Firgelli? With the LAC board, it's all pretty much plug and play.


No reason in particular. Just would like to see other options available.

I did take a brief look at your build thread. You were originally going to go with the 2" stroke and went with 4". Any reason to steer me toward the longer stroke actuator? I see most using a two inch stroke. Also the LAC board is used for returning the actuator to center? Correct me if wrong. As I mentioned this is all new territory for me. However, I am a quick learner :D



There's really not much of a reason for a full 4 inches. This does result in being able to max out the steering both ways, but my mounting location flexes quite a bit. You can adjust the travel at the lac and the r/c controller. It does allow for tight turns, but it skids when going too fast. I don't use any traction aids.
By dalcant757
#132540
If you want it to control like a standard r/c car, I would go for the fastest speed you can go. The extra power is just a different gear ratio in the actuator.

12V in an unmodified power wheels should get you in the vicinity of 5mph. This is pretty boring unless you have a passenger. 10-15 might be more fun. I went with a syren 50 because I like to leave myself with options in the future. 50A will be far more power than you will ever need. Most battery setups aren't even going to support such a current draw.
User avatar
By sall
#132547
Thanks for the input!

From what I gather I have to order the linear feedback actuator and the LAC from two different entities of Firgelli and incur two separate shipping fees. :roll:

Looks like http://www.robotshop.com has or can source everything and is free shipping...

So, that being said... Tentative parts list

  • SyRen 50A 6V-30V Regenerative Motor Driver
  • Firgelli Automation FA-PO-35-12-2 - 2" Stroke/35 lb/2" Per Second Linear Feedback Actuator
  • Firgelli Technologies Linear Actuator Control Board

Now dumb question from an RC newb! I would like to get a controller with 6CH. This way I can command on/off lighting and other accessories. Most of the 6CH transmitters I see are labeled airplane/helicopter. Are these suitable RC car or no? :oops: For example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-2-4G-FS-CT6B ... 4637d05cb5
Last edited by sall on Mon Jun 01, 2015 9:57 am, edited 5 times in total.
By Trip2013
#132555
No reason for the 150lb just was looking for something that maybe easier to steer when moving. I notice if I go full out with my 25lb daughter. The steering gets really sketchy. Drop back down a little slower and it's all fun
User avatar
By sall
#132628
So just to verify the 2" Linear Feedback Actuator at 35lbs is going to work well in the grass, correct? I don't want to spend money on something that just simply isn't going to work. I am hoping to order the rest of the components in the next week or so. Any input is greatly appreciated!
Last edited by sall on Thu Jun 04, 2015 1:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By Trip2013
#132658
It's your rear wheels that you want to keep the weight around, my 22lbs daughter in the escalade on the grass still loses traction and just spins, that's even with an extra battery in the back for the servo setup.
User avatar
By sall
#132678
As long as I won't have steering or return to center issues on grass then it is all good. Planning to order the motor controller, actuator and LAC Monday.
By Trip2013
#132693
Be sure to post how to return to centre steering. I am still battling with that, it either goes full left or full right. To drive straight I have. To toggle the steering, does the trick after getting used to. Have an email out to Firgelli for suggestions no response yet. Be sure to post an answer or resolve
User avatar
By sall
#132705
Trip2013 wrote:Be sure to post how to return to centre steering. I am still battling with that, it either goes full left or full right. To drive straight I have. To toggle the steering, does the trick after getting used to. Have an email out to Firgelli for suggestions no response yet. Be sure to post an answer or resolve


Interesting. From reviewing some other builds it seemed people were using the LAC to return to center..? I figure it has to be set up in the software.
User avatar
By sall
#132841
I will be using 2x 12v 18aH batteries for 24v. I should be able to run a 24v to 12v stepdown to run the actautor with no issues, correct? As long as it is rated for ~5A or more? I ask because I see some running separate battery for the actuator.
Last edited by sall on Thu Jun 11, 2015 8:27 pm, edited 2 times in total.
By Sven37
#132923
You could also just wire the actuator up to one battery. the catch is that battery will drain faster. For my build I all non-24v items on battery 1 except the actuator and the actuator goes to battery 2.

I'm curious to see how the 35lb actuator works for ya. Keep me (us lol) posted!
User avatar
By sall
#133030
Yeah I would prefer to keep the batteries as balanced as possible. I don't foresee any issues using a stepdown. 24v to 5v for receiver(& light module) and 24v 12v stepdown for actuator and accessories. Well I am hoping the 12v 2" 35lb is going to work well. No one is saying anything to contrary :|

On another note with zero RC background bind the transmitter and receiver was simple. Setting up the SyRen motor driver was just as easy. Works really well. Hopefully the steering won't prove to be difficult. Still have a lot of work left to do for all accessories.


Sven37 wrote:You could also just wire the actuator up to one battery. the catch is that battery will drain faster. For my build I all non-24v items on battery 1 except the actuator and the actuator goes to battery 2.

I'm curious to see how the 35lb actuator works for ya. Keep me (us lol) posted!
By dbalogh
#134026
I just joined the site, so go easy on me.

I used the expert suggestions from the members to build a RC PW car last summer. It was a blast and I am looking for the next level of car.

Here are some details on the car:

Started with a green "Dune Racer"
Traxxas Speed Controller (EVX-2)
Frangelli motion control steering actuator
Spektrum Remote Control (DX2E)
Separate steering battery, 12V w/charger
Standard Fischer Price Power Wheels battery w/charger
All original equipment included to rebuild back into a standard power wheels, except for the throttle switch

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