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Have you added running lights? Headlamps? Perhaps some spinners?
User avatar
By lmpbao
#139356
Hey, new to the forums and tired of hunting through to try and find some sort of tutorials with very little luck.

Just bought the Barbie Cadillac Escalade.

Looking to:
1.Change speakers.
From what I gather, 6.5 3 ways will work? And I can hook those straight up to a head unit.
Any recommendations on small head units that fit nicely in the space on the caddy?

2. Add traction to the tires.
Any recommendations, traction strip or rubber tires? If I do rubber tires do I need to switch the plastic gears out so they don't wear so much?

3. Adjust the stick shift.
Mine is feeling pretty sloppy and I don't like the uncertainty of what gear it is in.

4. Move the pedal completely.
I am toying with moving the pedal to a flappy paddle by the steering wheel. Anyone done this or seen it? Any thoughts on the feasibility? The issue is that I am a full grown adult driving the power wheels. If I can move the pedal I don't have to move the seat.

5. Add underbody led lighting.
I know I have seen some posts about this but not many with a decent or recent tutorial. Does anyone have recommendations on cheap brands.

6. Install second battery.
Have seen lots of people discuss adding a second battery, but no one gives a tutorial or links to how to do it or where to best seat the battery. Will the standard 12v be enough for the radio and accessories and the new 18v battery for the engine?

7. Paint
Everyone goes back and forth on the best paint for the car. Just wanted a final consensus and colors that looked good vs didn't.

8. Steering
Steering feels a bit tight and has very little range of motion, anyone know how to improve this. I would like to be able to take a reasonable left turn instead of having to get out of the car and move it in order to make a somewhat sharp turn.

Since it is a power wheels I am looking for cheap and easy, obviously within reason. Any help, link referrals and ideas are greatly appreciated. Doing all the work myself and love a good project.
Attachments
2016-04-30.jpg
Brand new pink caddy. Pre Overhaul.
#139370
From what I've seen there is no correct way to mod these things ... More so your purpose and goal. You mention you'll be driving it? I'm assuming that is you in the photo? Are you looking to drive this as a chase car or parades or off road? If it will always be driven by a no offence heavy (heavier than a five year old) adult then you may want to look into a full frame and go cart steering and power. If your wanting off road capabilities your going to want flexible a arms and perhaps a two or four link rear drive. As far as power goes you may use more of a hand control from a boat or a two stage cable from a drag car. I think we could better help you if we knew your final application.
#139373
Yup, the fiery red head is me. Finally found a used power wheels in my small town.

It will mostly be driven on asphalt and sidewalks. Not looking for any crazy off road abilities. Just want to cruise around. Being an adult though, makes the minor problems that kids deal with, all that more obvious.
Ideally I want to be able to drive on a sidewalk and turn the vehicle around corners comfortably.
I definitely am heavier than a 5 year old, but sit right on the max weight give or take a few pounds. Right now the tires are pretty worn and I am looking into new tires, just need to decide if I should go stock with a traction strip or rubber tires. As of this weekend, when I drive on a slope and stop accelerating, I roll backwards slowly. When I accelerate too quickly I just spin in circles. Obviously no traction.

Not looking for correct way, just suggestions for paths of least resistance.

So after getting the tires changed (should be no problem and very easy) and the radio swapped out, Finally found some cheap speakers just need a head unit that will fit, I want to move the acceleration pedal to hand operation.

Taking the whole thing a part today to get a better idea of the inner workings and wiring. I am new to small electrical vehicles, but have spent a fair amount of time under the hood of old cars. I am pretty handy and great at fidgeting, usually just need to take things apart in order to get a better understanding.

Thanks for the reply! I was worried that this forum had died down.
#139379
The mods are up to you and works best for your budget mostly... I have the 6.5" speakers in mine, but I think that the 5-1/4" might be easier to fit. I used a standard single DIN automotive head unit and cut out a mounting plate for it in heavy plastic. As far as the throttle goes, I used a scooter pedal and went to an ESC, there is kit available to do so. This allows you to use 24v as an input and govern it down to suit. I used separate 12v batteries under the hood to run all of the 12v accessories. You can also use a 24v to 12v step down to run the accessories off of just the 24v power as well. You can also use any 0-5v input for the ESC, so you could use a twist grip throttle from a scooter or a sliding potentiometerfor your hand throttle. The you can have proportional throttle and a separate brake pedal/switch. Its mostly about trying things and having fun, here is some inspiration.


Image


Image


Image
#139387
This is just my opinion ... That and five bucks will buy you a bad cup of coffee at Starbucks. I would do go cart steering and suspension pocket bike or lawn tractor tires. Stay 24v or 36v for speed. 12V for acc. Add a mock shifter that connects to a potentiometer for variable throttle. Push button forward and reverse. That would situate somewhere on the right side of the dash. Modify that seat for foam wraped cloth to cushion your cute lol bum from the bumps. As far as a head unit ... I saw a small version on here somewhere that was in a gaucho
#139643
Thanks for the link. I wonder how he found that unit, like what his search terms were. I would like something that fills the space a bit better so I have as little plastic fabrication to do as possible.

I will definitely look into the go kart steering to see if it helps and is worth the money/effort.

6772owner, where might i find that kit? Would be helpful to see what it's got going on.

This is more just a silly toy to fidget with than a huge money investment. I do agree that fiddling for fun is how you discover things but I am very new to electronics, motors and plastic manipulation. Most of my experience is with metal cars and fiberglass as well as crafting. Usually I look at what has worked for others in one way or another and absorb the knowledge so I can evolve it to suit my purpose.

Spent too much on the Escalade to make uncalculated cuts.
#139973
Which part?
I am struggling a bit with the electrical side of it.
I did decide to grab a button from another model. I'm waiting for it to come in the mail. Then I'm going to install it on the steering wheel and move the shifter lever to the area of the radio.
#139995
Well I am on the hunt for the best 12 volt battery with the longest AH at a decent price with respect to weight. I am not looking to upgrade to 18v because it seems like more work in the long run than I want to put in. I want there still to be an ease of charging. Since I am getting rid of a lot of plastic like the windows and other assorted trim, I am giving myself a little more leeway on the weight of an additional battery.
Where I am running into problems is wiring. I have a new head unit Boss Audio 610UA and some 5.25" Boss Audio Speakers. I would like to know what the average run time would be on the stock battery. The plan would be to get a new battery for longer engine run time and put the 12v 9.5AH stock on my accessories.
Then I need to figure out how to wire the radio and speakers to the battery. Do I need any sort of addition to regulate power or current or whatever it is pulling? No idea what gauge wire to get, how long or what to hook up where.
The speakers fit great in the original holes, just gotta get some long bolts to hold it in place. Pretty stoked on that. Next I have to commit to cutting plastic to make the head unit fit and find a decent way to mount it. Nervous about that since plastic doesn't grow back.

I also bought a NOCO Smart Charger so I don't have to worry about over charging it. Plus this way I at least have a sense of the charge status since there are no lights on the stock battery. But I don't know how to plug it into the stock battery. I can cut up the original charger and create my own adapter but I am a bit sketch on doing that. The clamps that come with the charger are a hair too big to fit in the slots on the PW battery.

When the new button comes, I will need to wire that instead of the pedal. I am hoping that I can just transfer the wires from one to the other without any new wiring needed.

Unfortunately, most of the tutorials I run across on here are from people much more experienced in this field and ends up looking like jargon to me. This is one of those things that a step by step guide or pictures helps volumes. Plus I hate doing any conversions or calculations so I just hide from them.
#139996
Also want to know if replacing the gear boxes is worth it. I am having a hell of a time getting the stupid washers off and haven't found any better alternative to them when I need to put them back on again. Which gear box would the escalade use?
#140007
As far as the battery the higher the Ah (Ampree Hours) the longer the drive time assuming no extra draws (ie sound system) to solve this I would mount a separate 12v batt under the seat or behind the seat to solely run your head unit speakers and any lights you add.
As far as charging the system I really liked was on a gaucho. They basically installed two bolts about 3 inches apart through the body under the hood. On the other side they used ring terminals and heat shrink. One bolt pos side of batt other to neg. This way they could use the standard clips on an automotive 12v charger.
You could do this for your under seat batt just run the wires back. There is ways to wire them together on a switch for charging but it's ok to leave them separate and charge one after another
As far as the gearboxes in not sure which you have but if you look here:http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=103

I wouldn't worry about replacing until you blow one or shred the gears.
Someone who has a escalade may know off hand which you have and what else fits.
#140009
Hopefully this helps with the peanut removal..



When done, you can go to the hardware store and get a retaining ring that has an Allen head set screw, WAY easier to work with in the future! Like this, but I believe you need 1/2"

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stallard- ... 64613.html

If you take the escalade up on an angle, like its going up a super steep hill, you will find an area below the stock battery, between the front tires, you can easily convince 2 12 volt 12 ah batteries in, hidden and safe, to use for extended drive time or for the accessories. Those batteries will need a charge port due to restricted access, so wire them with 10 AWG (fat white and black wires) straight from the get go to not have to pull them back out, tipping it is kinda tricky to get to them, I use my lift to gain great access. Not knowing how you're going to use these batteries, you may want to consider using 4 wires, to run them separately, as opposed to having them parallel right away? You can use one for drive time, and one for the accessories, or if your going to be putting in a lot of lights, USB ports, and a booming stereo with amp then do them parallel.
#140010
Whoa, never linked to a video before, that's pretty cool!
Not me, but found it, hopefully it will be useful?
And no point in sticking new gearboxes in just yet. But may I advise going through them to regrease. I think mine had 16T which is in the middle of the speed/torque spectrum of stock power wheels gearboxes. It seems to be a pretty stout gearbox for not being the new orange hub thicker piece. You and your gear won't weigh what I weighed and these things move my fat butt! ;-) save the new gearbox money for something else.....
Plastic regrowth, boy I wish!
I forgot what else you asked, but 10 gauge is best, do it once and be done. You could go get a fuse block like this, connect your battery red/white wires to it, and tap off with individual wires for your accessories... you can get it with or without a cover.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/BK_7825316/

You can tuck that under the hood, under the seat, or with the cover probably even on the underside on the front of the firewall, but just provide decent access to install/replace a fuse.
As far as charging the stock battery, pull the bandaid.... cut the stock charger wires in the middle, and flip flop bullet connectors. That way you can reconnect it if need be, OR you can get some of these...

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NW_784640/

Not good for anything with high amp draw, but great for charging! You can put them on the stock charger also. Schumacher charger uses basically the same thing, so you can use fat alligator clips, eyelets, a cig lighter adapter. VERY USEFUL.

Not that you can use those connections for the gas pedal, but the gas pedal has 3 wires. Power in (white), red power to the shifter (and on to the motors), and orange that goes to ground (black) to be used as brakes. It's not a game changer if you want to leave out the orange, it just will be much easier on the gearboxes/motors, and not stop quite as quickly. But YOU are driving, not a child.

Stereo fitment will be a bit of an issue, all the radios I have are a tad too deep. Sorry can't help there =/

Be sure to check the amp ratings for the steering wheel gas pedal you got, it may require the use of a relay to operate the high amp draw of the motors??? Most little switches are low current.
#140017
"I have a new head unit Boss Audio 610UA and some 5.25" Boss Audio Speakers. I would like to know what the average run time would be on the stock battery (12v 9.5AH)"

That unit draws 50watts x 4 at 12vdc. So max it draws 200watts with 4 speakers.
Amps are watts divided volts so at max you're at 16.6 amps. At max draw that 9.5ah battery will last a little over 1/2 hour.

"Do I need any sort of addition to regulate power or current or whatever it is pulling?" That radio needs 12vdc.

" No idea what gauge wire to get, how long or what to hook up where. "
Using the chart below it looks like 18awg wire is plenty big enough.
How long ? Measure on the jeep how long the runs from the battery to the radio is.
That radio comes with a wire harness and should have wiring directions with it.

Wire Chart.png
Add description
#140052
Thank you both for the super helpful reply!!

The shifter feels sloppy. Like when it is in one gear you can jiggle it up and down. I ordered the shifter from the mustang. Looks awesome and has the same plugs as the stock shifter. I am going to mount that next to the steering wheel where the original radio was.

I grabbed a F/R switch most often found on the PW Wrangler and Beetles. Should be the same wiring as the stock pedal. Going to mount that on the underside of the steering wheel so I can steer and hold the button. Right now when I stop on a hill, I slide backwards. Hopefully adding the stair tread from Harbor Freight will help with that and not shred the gearboxes. I am ok with not having brakes or not coming to an immediate stop, as long as I don't go backwards when I am stopped. Total drain on the battery when I am fighting gravity.

People mentioned attaching the tread with a staple gun. Just checking that I am right in my memory.
Thanks for the note on the greasing gears, right now the escalade has been broken down as much as possible. Minus the wheels. I am strongly debating whether I want to take the wheels off or just leave them on for now. Hopefully I can remember how to put everything back together :P

The fuse block is perfect! Hadn't even thought of it but will definitely be a good idea.
I was thinking of cutting the connector off and connecting the clips to those wires and plugging it into the battery. Bad idea? Do love those adapters from napa. Look like exactly what I need.

Awesome, can't imagine I will run the stereo at max and I only have two speakers anyways and will be driving it around my college campus and town during summer. So 30 minute minimum should be more than satisfactory. I can always bring my charger along and charge while it is parked.

Just finished making a cushion for the seat and plan on sewing a cover for it today or tomorrow. Just want to figure out how to keep it on without gluing it down. Want to be able to take it out of the car so I can remove the cover to wash it. Thought about adding extended fabric flaps that would tuck under the plastic seat but I didn't plan on making a cushion for the back so the seat cushion would still slide forward. Bouncing ideas around just nothing I like yet.
#140053
Seat covers... add a flap, and get some snaps. Put a few snaps behind the seats with screws, and below the seat at the ankle heel area should do it?

The Napa male/female plugs would work for charge ports, lights, radio, and the underglow lights, but not the throttle (unless using a relay), shifter, or motors. I haven't seen any with larger than 14 gauge =(

The shifter has 2 switches inside, both the same I believe.

Hill rollback most likely is going to be unavoidable. Traction will not help that. The harbor freight treads will only help with wheel spin in the grass and "drifting" slides, which with weight becomes diminished. Staple gun, roofing screws, silicone, or adhesive will help. You can get some pretty good spray tak from 3M. But I'm not sure how much you will notice traction wise, but it certainly will reduce road noise!

Take it off.!. =0
No, there easy, and as long as you'll be planning to clean the ride up when you are all done anyway, now's the time to get a lil dirty. You'll again reduce some noise, know the condition of the gears, and have a bit of assurance that you have plenty of time before you encounter any problems on that end. The caps will cover those little retainers, and if/when you do have to replace something, it will be that much easier!

Yes, the bullet connectors on the stock charger will make charging the stock battery that much easier and faster. Your Amazon charger will charge a 12ah battery in about 6 hours, vs the stock charger may take 16 hours. That finger pointer end will be handy! If you decide to go multiple batteries, again those Napa ends work well with the Schumacher chargers, but keep in mind that one side is properly colored for connecting to the charger, and one side is colored same as the charger..... you can use either end, but remember that one side will "look" wired backwards.

And for a measly $35 or so, you may want to consider looking at getting the "remote kill switch" and wire it in as a "key" to require your knowledge of the Cadillac being driven.

http://www.mltoys.com/product-p/shut-off-switch.htm

Unfortunately it isn't lojack or going to keep someone from tossing your escalade in the back of a pick up, but will keep that nerd Tommy from killing the batteries while you're in class! He won't be able to (without some work and knowledge on his part) go cruise campus while the ride is out of your line of sight. Just an idea....

Back to batteries...
I forgot if you ordered any, but gruber and battery sharks are some good places to look, there's a WIDE variety of shapes, sizes, connectors, and amp hours. But you may (with some schematics) get into using a big main battery to drive on, and (possibly (started the holiday early, can't drink all day if you don't start early)) use a couple 6V in that secret spot I mentioned as a turbo AND to power accessories. Just a wiring idea to consider since its all apart. And keep in mind, your cell phone takes pictures, snap a few different angles before taking something apart and you'll KNOW how to get it back together ;-)

Here's some gearbox knowledge and pics....

viewtopic.php?f=41&t=103

You (most likely) have #7 gearboxes, with 16 stamped, and 16 teeth on the motor. Once you pop that clip (push nut) off, one tire slides off, the axle (metal bar) slides off with the "other" wheel, and the motor/gearbox basically falls out. Nothing to be overly concerned with, but try to move the axle slow enough to catch the gearbox so not to pull the wires too hard. Pull the motors off one at a time, all will be fine. The pink body probably has one wire color stamped into it on each side. Greasing those gearboxes is this weekends homework!
#140054
Seat covers... add a flap, and get some snaps. Put a few snaps behind the seats with screws, and below the seat at the ankle heel area should do it?

The Napa male/female plugs would work for charge ports, lights, radio, and the underglow lights, but not the throttle (unless using a relay), shifter, or motors. I haven't seen any with larger than 14 gauge =(

The shifter has 2 switches inside, both the same I believe.

Hill rollback most likely is going to be unavoidable. Traction will not help that. The harbor freight treads will only help with wheel spin in the grass and "drifting" slides, which with weight becomes diminished. Staple gun, roofing screws, silicone, or adhesive will help. You can get some pretty good spray tak from 3M. But I'm not sure how much you will notice traction wise, but it certainly will reduce road noise!

Take it off.!. =0
No, there easy, and as long as you'll be planning to clean the ride up when you are all done anyway, now's the time to get a lil dirty. You'll again reduce some noise, know the condition of the gears, and have a bit of assurance that you have plenty of time before you encounter any problems on that end. The caps will cover those little retainers, and if/when you do have to replace something, it will be that much easier!

Yes, the bullet connectors on the stock charger will make charging the stock battery that much easier and faster. Your Amazon charger will charge a 12ah battery in about 6 hours, vs the stock charger may take 16 hours. That finger pointer end will be handy! If you decide to go multiple batteries, again those Napa ends work well with the Schumacher chargers, but keep in mind that one side is properly colored for connecting to the charger, and one side is colored same as the charger..... you can use either end, but remember that one side will "look" wired backwards.

And for a measly $35 or so, you may want to consider looking at getting the "remote kill switch" and wire it in as a "key" to require your knowledge of the Cadillac being driven.

http://www.mltoys.com/product-p/shut-off-switch.htm

Unfortunately it isn't lojack or going to keep someone from tossing your escalade in the back of a pick up, but will keep that nerd Tommy from killing the batteries while you're in class! He won't be able to (without some work and knowledge on his part) go cruise campus while the ride is out of your line of sight. Just an idea....

Back to batteries...
I forgot if you ordered any, but gruber and battery sharks are some good places to look, there's a WIDE variety of shapes, sizes, connectors, and amp hours. But you may (with some schematics) get into using a big main battery to drive on, and (possibly (started the holiday early, can't drink all day if you don't start early)) use a couple 6V in that secret spot I mentioned as a turbo AND to power accessories. Just a wiring idea to consider since its all apart. And keep in mind, your cell phone takes pictures, snap a few different angles before taking something apart and you'll KNOW how to get it back together ;-)

Here's some gearbox knowledge and pics....

viewtopic.php?f=41&t=103

You (most likely) have #7 gearboxes, with 16 stamped, and 16 teeth on the motor. Once you pop that clip (push nut) off, one tire slides off, the axle (metal bar) slides off with the "other" wheel, and the motor/gearbox basically falls out. Nothing to be overly concerned with, but try to move the axle slow enough to catch the gearbox so not to pull the wires too hard. Pull the motors off one at a time, all will be fine. The pink body probably has one wire color stamped into it on each side. Greasing those gearboxes is this weekends homework!
#140056
Snaps! That is genius! How did I not think of that. I even have snaps on hand.

Yes the shifter has two switches. I couldn't figure out what was making it loose and there was nothing to tighten to stop that wiggling. So hopefully a replacement will help. It is the zig zag pattern so hopefully that helps a bit.

I plan on driving the car into class or locking it up to the bike racks. I want to make a little faux steering wheel lock for looks and to humor myself. Small campus so I am not too worried about someone walking off with it.

I definitely want a longer run time on the engine and hearing everyone have success with varying weights makes me less hesitant to get a long AH with the risk of a higher weight overall.

Is there any way to reduce the backwards rolling. It is very taxing on the engine and tires to keep going backwards. Plus I feel ridiculous.

Installing some mirrors from the F-150 so I can actually look behind me, any ideas where I can find the dimensions of the "glass sticker" that goes on? I want to grab something more effective than the stickers or the cheap reflective stickers that really just warp everything. Those, the switch button and the shifter arrive on Tuesday. Gah so impatient. darn holiday. Thanks for the reminder though, maybe some battery deals this weekend :D

Also plan on adding a horn. Hoping to find something very amusing. But that is a fairly easy addition as far as removing the steering wheel goes. So probably one of the last things I will do.
Thinking I will put the main battery for the engine under the seat to add the weight back there instead of in the front. I know that there will be a decent amount of hills to climb. There are longer routes around campus with less hills and the grade isn't crazy just more than flat. But I would rather all the weight be over the back tires, I think. But putting in a couple 6 batteries for the accessories might be perfect under the hood. Then I could charge as necessary and add more as needed. Right now only the radio/speakers need additional power. Eventually I want the horn, led lights and I am sure more will come to me as I drive around.

Loved the flux capacitor someone else installed. Would love to put a fake tail hitch or some fuzzy dice. The more absurd the more I like it. Want the horn to make a silly noise.

I remembered the pictures after I took it apart. I was good though and saved all hardware in a bag instead of my floor :) I will have to post some pictures later of my progress. Not all that far along, but I feel a lot more confident in what I am doing so thank you so much for the help.

Goals this weekend:
get the charger working
finish seat cushion
mount radio and wire properly
pick up fuse block
attach speakers
secure tread
prep battery location install
find darn battery finally
#140059
Well for instant gratification, you can over pay batteries plus, but although they do have a bunch of what works, there are tons more dimensions available online.

The zig zag like a hurricane has should be rather "bump proof", so that would be nice, but I don't know if you will like the finish look, because it's got a cover that may not come in your order???

Snaps...
You probably want to use stainless Steel, so not to rust.

Remember there's 4 spots to install batteries. One under each cheek (requires you to make a box, battery box for a boat may fit ok, and would be quick and easy), the stock location, and below it.

The rollback
If you could figure a way to make a lever for hand brake? A stiff version of the playing card in the bicycle spoke. Or just a stick to the ground? I'm not sure even a chain drive with the esc is going to change the rollback?

Mirror sticker
I think you can even find that at Walmart

Horn
Sadly I must notify you that the steering may have that wonderful push nut. It may also have just a pin, requiring you to loosen the bottom first? Either way, that's more along the lines of 7/16", but not quite. Again, that set screw retainer will work. But for a horn, about $50 at auto zone gets you animal sounds and a P.A. I'm sure you'll find cheaper online.

All the screws are basically the same, except the gearbox, and the front 4" lift riser bolts.
#140060
So I've been pondering your roll back problem and I seem to think of two solutions ... Find a way to install the old manual brakes off a peg or adapting a brake similar to a soap box derby.
Image of course you could leave the steering off but this uses a cable to pull a shaft downwards with a price of rubber for the brake on the ground (works great on asphalt never tried on grass but it stops a 200lb car flying down a hill quite well) but basically a spring holds the pad up a cable attaches to the top then goes through a pulley at the base that then attaches to your pedal.
Or there is a more crude old school manual method ...
It's more of a hand brake but it works
Image
Image
#140062
Stick, sweated copper....
That's going to be much better than a ratcheting playing card idea. Might look at black pipe for gas or galvanized pipe though? How well/long does the copper last? I suppose she's not using it more than just a stick in the mud tho, she's not planning to drag it along the asphalt at a great speed like an e-brake, just an anchor, and the right angle and it'll hold itself. Great pics monkey!
#140064
That's kinda what I was thinking ... Don't know how long the copper lasts depends on torque I guess ... These things are race cars the parts are replaced every couple years lol ... The brake set up in the first pic is very reliable and easily accessable parts wise (until they redesign but it's been the same for over 15 years) you can get them through the derby website or anyone that sells derby supplies. I was thinking perhaps sorcing a hand brake out of any old car at a junkyard then installing the brake stalk them connect the pulleys to the original cable location on the hand brake. Gives you a parking brake and a funtioning brake ... Harder you pull the more you brake the locking feature of a brake would be nice if she stopped to talk to someone on a hill lol.
#140089
Ya, I suppose stopping to talk to someone and having to ask them to put their foot behind the tire would be goofy. Having the pipe angled back would be e brake, and a parking brake for roll back.
And just so you know, I tend to trash the caps of the pushnuts then cut the actual retainer ring with wire cutter/snips. I just watched a bit more of that video, and saw him fighting with it for quite a while. Didn't see that when I had scanned through =/ you can but separate covers, and silicone them on if need be, but the escalade has little covers anyway. Hopefully it's progressing well!
#140093
Or you could just carry a brick lol toss it under the wheel every time you stop ... Had an old farm truck that was like that had no parking brake any more and if you weren't shutting it off and leaving it in gear then the old beast would run away. Made the mistake of leaving it in first one day on a downhill. Darn thing started its self slipping down the hill lol. Same old truck my cousin asked to go start it before we headed into town I told him sure just make sure it's outta gear lol he was yelling out the window driving in circles lol Had to jump in the passenger side lol.

I would go with the brake and the brake plunger ... Its square and not sloped so it wouldn't care if you were up hill or down ... Just meet a brake kit and the brake post off the derby site (i can link If you want to go that route) and a hand brake off of your favorite junk yard find ... You could even go to a yard that they pull it for you if you don't want to mess with it. But it's really simple if you just cut about 6 inches of the brake wire you can saddle the new wire to the old ... Quick I can also link you to.

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