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KidsWheels
I have something you MIGHT want. Do you want to buy?
By Sedzy
#141909
Nice lab. :) I figured you were in the industry. I'm the same, but in prototype quantities, so no justification for production equipment. It's all done by hand. Even under 20x, a 0201 passive is hard to solder, let alone build up a board. Some days, I wish we had even a simple P&P machine for just the small passives. MPW definitely gets the edge on pricing when you don't have to source out board population!

I know who to PM next time I need to pick a brain for a problem! :)
By hbskisurf
#141936
Super excited to start installing these. I'm trying to install using 3 6V batteries using the trailer hitch method from this thread: viewtopic.php?f=57&t=15270

I've studied the wiring diagram for the Turbo Timer and I think I have everything correct...but want to double check before I start lighting things on fire by accident. This thread freaked me out: http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/foru ... PIC_ID=136

Diagram and file attached.

The connections I have a question on are (highlighted in orange in my crude drawing):
1) 12V to Car End and Vehicle End Connection to make sure the batteries charge. Should this go from the Ignition Relay (30) to the black Car End. Then the Black Trailer End would go to the Positive Ride On Wire? I wasn't sure if doing this would charge the battery. If the ignition switch was turned on it seems like it may work...

2) Batt #3 Negative Connection to White Car End - would this run through the SPST turbo. Would this charge OK?

3) Battery Saver +12V Source Connection. Does the positive +12V source come from the Ignition Relay (30) if no other batteries are in the system?

4) Negative for Lights and Accessories. Do I tap into 8 wire that is running to the Battery Saver Relay (85)?

Peg Perego 18V Upgrade v3.jpg
#141941
Hey HBSKISURF....
I'm not sure if it would help any, but CJB is also debating the manufacture of another beautiful looking circuit board to ease the installation of the turbo timer. Have a look at the other thread here. I think it may help you out.
I'm not 100% sure but I think he "may" have started on them? I believe that he was talking about $15 for board, like $20 with shipping, and it may very well make the charger portion of the install simpler and easier..?

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=20215

Edit:
Is it possible to make the links in the picture in either an edited version of the previous post or a new post response. Within the picture, they aren't clickable. I'm sure the components themselves are fine, but if you still haven't ordered any of them, it would only be in your benefit. Sorry to be like a stickler, just trying to help you get the best chance of a
Fully informed response.


And to help ease your mind about the fire thread, you can certainly purchase a "point of use GFCI" cheaply at any home improvement store, and plug in one of the chargers I list in the following thread. They are far more than just the stock charger, as I detail in the post.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=20223
Last edited by Suburbancharlie77 on Fri Aug 05, 2016 10:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By CJB
#141942
Holy crap. That diagram isn't working for me on mobile. Lol. I'll get back to you on that.

I have ordered boards for the interface board but its not designed for 6x3 per say. They're about 2-3 weeks out yet, but on the way.

Timers have shipped. Iowa should see it tomorrow, everyone else Monday.
#141945
Wow, the power wheels guru has a dilapidated brick phone?
Even my infected cracked screen memory full notsosmart phone opened it!
But I'm thinking due to screen size, it's a tad too busy to follow, and I couldn't differentiate the color in question. Kinda why I pushed the new board. Plus all the benefits of neat & clean!
By hbskisurf
#141949
Thanks for the replies. While I love the idea of the hookup board, I really need an easy "wife" and "grandparent" proof solution. I think I figured out some of my questions after digging around to figure out what relays actually do...this is stuff is all new to me. Here's my updated crude drawing. Does this make sense now:

1) Battery 1 + (Black wire in car end harness). I believe I don't need to hook anything to the black wire on the trailer end for the Ride On hookup as the + voltage will be sent from the ignition relay. The black will only be connected to the trailer end for the charger connector which will allow current to flow back and charge the battery.

2) Battery 3 - (White wire in car end harness). Same concept. I don't need it to hook to anything in on the trailer end for the Ride On hookup as - voltage will be sent from the turbo relay. The white will only be connected to the trailer end for the charger connector which will allow current to flow back and charge the battery.

3) Brown to Blue Jumper. I still need this jumper on the Ride On Trailer End Connector (thick green line) - correct?

4) Battery Saver +12V Source Connection. Does the positive +12V source come from the Ignition Relay (30) if no other batteries are in the system?

5) Negative for Lights and Accessories. Do I tap into 8 wire that is running to the Battery Saver Relay (85)?

Peg Perego 18V Upgrade v4.jpg


Thanks for all the help and sorry for the dumb questions...I'm far from an electrical guy! :D

Here's the list of the components I ordered with the TurboTimer.

1) Ignition Switch and wiring harness.
2) Relays
3) Turbo Button
4) Fuses
5) Trailer Car End Connection
6) Prewired LEDs and LED holders
7) Trailer Trailer End Connection
8) Battery Charger
9) Switch for Lights and Accessories
10) 6v 12ah Batteries
Last edited by hbskisurf on Sat Aug 06, 2016 7:35 am, edited 2 times in total.
#141950
Absolutely figured it was, just razzing you.
I think mine was an S5, was a nice phone. I liked the "emergency" feature, for when/if I did stupid things!


Hbskisurf, other than "because you already have them" is there a reason for using 3 6V batteries, and not a 6 and a 12? Depending on amp hour, some of them are crazy cheap! May be worth the money for install ease. A bit less complicated with a mere 2 less wires. No significant space saving however. But his new board is designed for a 12 & a 6 to mount right up for ride on connection as well as charging.

Cjb, when you say "per say" are you inferring it's possible beyond the simple 6V in series? Just curious.
By hbskisurf
#141951
Main reason for the 3 batteries is there is just one simple connection for "others" who may charge the car. Easier to explain plug in the trailer hitch to the "hole" in the car rather than explain how to hook up 2 sets of spade connectors.
Last edited by hbskisurf on Sat Aug 06, 2016 7:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
#141953
Skisurf
I understand the wife ease factor. Makes it way easier to convince her to be onboard!
I don't have time to dig it out now, but there are some schematics available to "disable" the car while it's charging, but with the connection board I'm not 100% on an ease of install method. I'll see what I can drum up while you are waiting for parts. Just curious, are you rushed for a birthday or anything? Just because again, for ease of diagnosing future issues, his connection board will simplify things tremendously, and his turbo timer track record is astounding!
With the turbo timer and connection board, it is a faster, easier, and cleaner install that greatly reduces amount of wire, crimp or solder connectors, and wire colors, all that will in the future cause some head scratching when something's come loose, which tends to happen on the little suped up suspensionless cars, driven by little knuckleheads.
By hbskisurf
#141956
Not in any particular rush and I agree the connection board will make things much easier. However, the advantage of the trailer hitch and 3 batteries is having only 1 charger involved vs. 2.
While hooking up two automatic Schumacher chargers shouldn't really cause any angst...one charger still makes the wife ease factor a little better in my situation.

I am intrigued by your idea of using a trailer connector and the connection board together. In theory if I have the two chargers prewired to a trailer end connection and then run the board connectors to a car end connector I should wind up in the same "one charger plug" spot using a 12V+6V vs. 3 of the 6V batteries.
User avatar
By CJB
#141997
I've got a massive headache at the moment but from what I see in the above diagram it looks good to me. I love the idea of the 7 pin connector. That should make life easy for all adults involved. Well, except for the installer! :lol:
With all the wiring you're going to be doing, I don't think the 18v Interface Board would really save you too much time. I did however come up with a way to use it with 3x 6v batteries but that would require an additional relay, and at that point you may as well just skip it altogether.


For those waiting on a Turbo Timer to arrive, if you don't receive it by tomorrow let me know and I'll get you tracking info.

Documentation for install can be found by clicking the 'CJB Electronics Stuff' link below.
By bndawgs
#142190
I got my Turbo timer as well, but haven't had a chance to even think about hooking it up yet. I was surprised to see how nicely manufactured and packaged it was. CJB definitely takes pride in these and I would highly recommend picking one up. Even if you're on the fence about it.
User avatar
By MR_Pat
#142193
I'm getting started on both cars today. I have to have them ready for Wednesday but my head is spinning looking at diffrent wiring diagrams because with the Vette I have to be uber careful because it has that dang computer board. And I'm trying to find a spot to get power for the TT as the stock battery harness runs straight to the board and everything is decided from it ... Key on turns power on , has relays built onto the board, sounds yup, lights, everything is controlled at the board with small wires aside from the 2 wires coming from the relays for the motors themselves.
User avatar
By CJB
#142219
My recommendation at this point is not to use in cars with a factory circuit board. Even says so in the documentation. However, if you can figure out a work around and do a write up on it, I think that would help a lot of people!

I know 12vwiz has a circuit board bypass diagram out there but I don't recall what all is involved there.
User avatar
By MR_Pat
#142224
Yeah I actually found that one and thats the one I'm going with .. I will leave 12V power going to the board for the sounds and light controls that it has but pull the wires off the relays for the motors and run 12Vwhiz diagram to the motors and tie the TT in. LOL I think my problem yesterday was just being over tired... worked 5a to 5p saturday and sunday, and back 5am monday morning till 2.... by the time i had made that post I was falling on my face tired and wire diagrams were just running together on me.
User avatar
By MR_Pat
#142263
Nope.. used 12VWhiz diagram and basically inserted TT diagram into it. They worked out great today by the way. Kids ran a race at a fair. I'll try and sit down and do a write up. I did notice that to run it as the 18V no button you still need to hook power coming from a motor + in forward.. I thought you just jumped the #1 and #7 <i may be wrong about these numbers> which ever ones it said in the directions.. I got nada from it . I need to look at how they are set tomorrow as I'd like to add the turbo button in for some extra challenge for when the boys are driving them.

Currently both cars are running 2 relays I picked up 6 SPDT relays not realizing i only needed 1 for each car and then 2 SPST relays.. but it still works just missing the accesory relay at the moment. The corvette install is kind of ugly as I stayed up late and had to also wire the car to keep the board safe.. I'm going to clean up my wire mess before i show pictures of the install.
Last edited by MR_Pat on Thu Aug 18, 2016 10:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By CJB
#142267
You can use a SPDT in place of a SPST for the battery saver function. Just ignore 87a. Price difference is usually minimal so if you're stocking up on relays, I'd go with SPDT for versatility.

Correct, pin 1 MUST be connected to a motor wire. This is the sensing signal the timer uses to determine if the vehicle is moving, and in which direction.
If running without a button, pin 7 should also be connected to the motor wire.
If running with a button, pin 7 would be coming from your button which is fed +12.
User avatar
By MR_Pat
#142271
Yep I just must have misunderstood the directions wording but all good now.. the wording was without the button you wire Pin 1 to 7. So I made the mistake of assuming you didn't need the motor wire .

Charlie the wire schematic I used to avoid the board was # @Suburbancharlie

jparthum wrote:Here's a quick diagram of one method...

Image
Click to animate.



The Negative wire from the Toggle Switch that is connected to the Shifter Switch, could instead be run from the Toggle Switch directly to the 12V Battery's Negative Terminal for simplicity - Wiring it as shown will disable 'NOS' while in REVERSE, and depending on the Relay used (ability to operate coil at 6V), may also disable 'NOS' while in LOW.
Last edited by MR_Pat on Thu Aug 18, 2016 1:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By MR_Pat
#142272
MR_Pat wrote:Yep I just must have misunderstood the directions wording but all good now.. the wording was without the button you wire Pin 1 to 7. So I made the mistake of assuming you didn't need the motor wire .

Charlie the wire schematic I used to avoid the board was # @Suburbancharlie . the diagram below basically you rewire it as a standard powerwheels and remove the boards connections to the shifter, motors, and throttle switch. I did hook the board up to 12V power so the kid still has the sounds and lights and everything that the board controlled. And I used the main ignition switch and relay to cut power to everything. he turns on the main switch and the car will drive , he turns the key (original part of this vette) and the main board turns on and he has his lights and sounds, the original car has a switch to turn on the lights but i left that as part of the board controlled items. I think I'm going to install the third relay for the accessories and run the 12V board power from there which case the turbo timer will shut off the power to the board if he leaves it on AKA kills lights and sounds and everything till he gets back into it. I'll try to use photo editor or something to show the connection of CJB's inside of this diagram below.

jparthum wrote:Here's a quick diagram of one method...

Image
Click to animate.



The Negative wire from the Toggle Switch that is connected to the Shifter Switch, could instead be run from the Toggle Switch directly to the 12V Battery's Negative Terminal for simplicity - Wiring it as shown will disable 'NOS' while in REVERSE, and depending on the Relay used (ability to operate coil at 6V), may also disable 'NOS' while in LOW.
#142274
Possible, however YOU are AWESOME at thinking of, designing, building, and providing kick butt things that are not only drastic improvements that are easy to follow and the kids love, making us goofballs look like super heros, all at very reasonable prices!
And the products have been tested, and safe!
Most of that CANT be said for a majority of retailers, regardless of product.
Now go ask someone to give you a hug and blow in your ear ;-)
User avatar
By MR_Pat
#142277
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: ok that was good ... so here's my start at trying to draw out what i did. I have not hooked in the LED's yet for the TT. Though I have a question about the LED's on the TT itself. I noticed a red one that is lit up once the throttle has been pressed no lights at all when the system is turned on they blink but go back out . I'll video it once i get the cars home.. Big storm came through last night and the cars ended up going home with the in - laws .. I have to go pick them up and wash the mud off of them today.


my attempt at what i did Image


Couple pics from the fair yesterday

Image

Image



User avatar
By CJB
#142279
Sounds about right. Upon initial power up, the lights may do a single flash for a second. That's normal. The relays shouldn't do anything when that happens.

The red LED near the connector is the battery saver LED (BSR). This is on when the battery saver relay is on.

The three LEDs near the edge are your Ready (R - green), Engaged (E - amber), and Lockout (L - red) LEDs. With your setup, Pat, you should never see that red led come on (provided the jumper is in the 'SS' position. When the turbo relay closes, the amber led should be on. You may see the green come on very briefly before the turbo relay kicks in but then the amber should come on right away, and stay on until the throttle is released.

LED Function:
    Ready (R - green) - on when turbo button can be pressed. i.e. System is ready to be activated
    Engaged (E - amber) - Turbo relay is engaged (closed)
    Lockout (L - red) - Lockout mode is in place, either temporarily in TT mode or permanently, depending on settings.
    Battery Saver (BSR - red) - lit when battery saver relay is active (closed).

One small note on the Lockout mode - if your push button is held or stuck down in TT mode, the timer will enter lockout mode and remain there until the button is released. This was a safety feature I added in case of a stuck or shorted button.
User avatar
By MR_Pat
#142290
Just wanted to make sure. Saw the big red light on the unit and got a little worried even though it was working great. We did wipe out a gearbox on the vette today because when I removed the cars original soft start where it very slowly takes off now its on the straight 12v launch and the rubber traction bands that came on the tires catch pretty good aparently. Going to switch those tires over to the silver vette and use the ones that dont have the bands on the yellow car. and I have a pile of the small push button switches from Digi key so I'll be actually wiring in the turbo button itself maybe with a DPDT switch so i can switch it from Turbo button to full time 18V no button. and definately gotta get a ready led wired in and start training the boys on turbo button. the extra 6v batteries i have are tiny and dont last very long.
User avatar
By MR_Pat
#142292
:D Thanks I thought the ability to use the turbo button or allow the kid full time "turbo" would be handy. especially my youngest one who loves to slide the mustang across the driveway lol. and in theroy the right switch could set it up as Turbo Button/Off/ Turbo full time
By BB_Mike
#142342
I decided to put my one turbo timer into a BigFoot that originally had the two 6 volt batteries. They also have a "high speed lockout" connection. Before today, I had two 12 volt batteries. One to each big foot battery connection. This meant low speed was 12 volts and high speed was 24 volts. Downside was you could do 24V from start, and 24V backing up. rung off a few pinions gears doing that.

Installed the turbo timer in Soft Start mode (SS versus TT). So, very underutilized.
What I have now is a big foot with a manual transmission that wont let you start out in High gear.. 8-)
Meaning you HAVE to start out in low speed, and if you want faster you have to "switch gears". but if you lift, you have to go to slow gear again. This should stop the kids from the ever annoying "pulsing" of the pedal.

Question: Can I supply the turbo timer board with a +Vs that is the same as the "Motor +" sense wire? The board should still only see +12Volts because the negative would be on a single battery and not across the two batteries in series. But if it where +24V, would it hurt it? I see the disclaimer about LED resistors, but I am not using any LEDs.
Wonder what the "delay to turbo" would be given the board would have to "boot up"?
Right now, I count it at +3 second from closing the throttle switch.
The reason for this is I would never have to worry about power drain.
User avatar
By FrozenDad
#142881
Hi all,

Thought I'd post a pic of the Turbo Timer in my daughter Frozen Mustang. I finally got it installed.

It's running a 12V+12V setup with 775 Traxxas motors and LED lights.

Thanks for the awesome information in here and of course the Turbo Timer design.
Attachments
IMG_1886-002.JPG
#142883
Hey frozen dad, that's a nice clean install!
Question though, do you get tire spin when turbo is engaged? I'm curious about how fast you reckon it gets up to? I think the mustang on 18V gets close to 9 mph.... so I'm guessing on 24 it's gonna be close to 11?
User avatar
By FrozenDad
#142884
The install wasn't too bad maybe a little difficult for the average Joe, but definitely time consuming. It took awhile trying to decide where things should go, finally decided placing the electronics upfront under the hood. I think I got too finicky keeping the wiring routes clean.

As for speed, I haven't really tested but I did get ~7mph on 18V (my first upgrade) using a speed app on my phone. So for 24V I'm guessing also around 11 since I am now using a 20T gear on the Traxxas motors. I was getting wheel spin at 18V going from low to fast speed but I've added gorilla tape on the rear tires (3 wounds). So at the 12 to 24V transistion there's definitely some whiplash. And for steering traction, I've added BMX tires to the front tires to reduce understeer.

Definitely fun for my two daughters and me building it... so now, how to keep the neighborhood kids from drooling and wanting to drive it....
User avatar
By MR_Pat
#142886
Hmm i keep fprgetting to post the pics of the vette and the mustangs install .. i'll try and get them up this week.. The mustang has it installed under the dash on the firewall.. The vette has it under its fake engine. probably going to redo the mustang and hide it under the seat area where the gearboxes are and install a battery tray under the seat.. been noticing some flicker from the lights when he drives with his lights on .. so going to put lights on their own source.
User avatar
By cleblancjr
#143175
When I get home from work I finally planned on installing my Turbo Timer 3.0 on a Hurricane I just purchased my daughter. But a 4 sounds even better!

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