Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Anything that doesn't fit somewhere else & general forum updates
User avatar
By jprefect
#145475
Hi all. Glad I stumbled onto this group!

I've got a (free) PW Disney Pontiac Solstice. I threw it on the trickle charger, and it did run, so I painted it. :) I'm going to try to knock the dust off of it, modify it a little bit.

So, I've got a spare solar panel kicking around, from a security light. It puts out 12v at 3mA, and has a DC connector on it. I was wondering if there was a safe and effective way to wire this into my car?

It may be due for a new battery soon anyway, I think it doesn't take a full charge, so I don't mind if it "might hurt the battery" for the sake of experiment. Running twelve volts with two speeds.

Am I wrong in thinking I can just wire this in parallel with the harness? And if I did that, would I need to invest in any special fuse or breaker? The battery already has a fuse OEM.

I'm pretty handy in general (tradesman) and not afraid to take on new projects, but I don't have any education or much experience in electrical, so dumb it down for me a little if you can. :) Assume I know nothing.

Thanks in advance!
- J
By Suburbancharlie77
#145478
Can't tell you anything about the solar, but the battery should be able to put out around 12.73 volts or more if good.
12.5=80%
12.10=50%
Fortunately the power wheels brand tend not to have circuit boards, well unfortunately rather, so the motors can draw a battery down to zero.
As far as the solar, I'd imagine that you would have to have some kind of modulator to stop charging and disconnect from the battery in order to prevent overcharging?
User avatar
By jprefect
#145480
Suburbancharlie77 wrote:As far as the solar, I'd imagine that you would have to have some kind of modulator to stop charging and disconnect from the battery in order to prevent overcharging?


How do the plug-in chargers handle that. Is it built into the wall-wart? Maybe there's an off the shelf part?
By Suburbancharlie77
#145481
The factory charger handles that by putting a sticker on the cord that states do not over charge battery.
Cuz once a parent has to replace the near $100 battery due to overcharging, they tend to be more conscientious about it.
There's no tech in them, and are not worth their weight in sawdust. If you're looking for a charger, gimme a minute....
By Roadmonkeytj
#145486
The issue you will run into is solar is dirty power you will want a capacitor to clean it up ... Most have a built-in​ regulator with resistors and diode's if they are a keep alive version for your car. You won't be able to run the car off that unit but it will trickle charge and keep a full batt full it won't due much for charging while your drawing down the battery with the motors. A second battery with a switch controller could fix this but a cloud orshade trees will reduce the efficiency of your panel
User avatar
By jprefect
#145504
Great link, Charlie. Thanks.

Roadmonkey, thanks for the suggestion. I think what I can do (since the solar panel is to a security light I don't need or want) is that I can take the battery from the light unit, and use that as a capacitor. I'm going to check the voltages later, but the panel and that battery are matched, and if I wire it from the panel, to the small battery, to the large battery in series, any extra current should "spill over" into the PW battery, right? Also, running them in series might get me a little extra run time from draining the small battery.

The security light should have the circuit for limiting the charge of the small battery. Bonus! Plus, in CT, we're not getting as much as some places, but hopefully enough that 14 hours of trickle charge per day should fill the battery for him to use it once per day. . . and I never have to worry about charging the thing!

I'll probably try to slap this together in the next couple of weeks. My 4 year old loves helping me "work on the car". Will post results here!
User avatar
By Teren clark
#146546
Suburbancharlie77 wrote:Can't tell you anything about the solar, but the battery should be able to put out around 12.73 volts or more if good.
12.5=80%
12.10=50%
Fortunately the power wheels brand tend not to have circuit boards, well unfortunately rather, so the motors can draw a battery down to zero.
As far as the solar, I'd imagine that you would have to have some kind of modulator to stop charging and disconnect from the battery in order to prevent overcharging?



Hello,
Can you please suggest me how to charge a solar panel with the dual battery??
User avatar
By Wierd
#146557
I'm sure he'd love to, but the last time I heard from him, he was banned for telling someone to take some miralax?
User avatar
By Wierd
#146588
Well that's what he told me. It was the miralax or attempting to help out a fellow member, I don't know? Something about not publicly stating a price for a used part? I guess you'd have to talk with wired about it.
User avatar
By CJB
#147124
I picked up a 100W Renogy starter kit off Amazon for my deer stand (don't ask) a few years back. I'm very happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Starter/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504703562&sr=8-4&keywords=renogy

In full sun it may be a little much for a 12AH battery though. But I'd stick with the monocrystalline variety.
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