Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Anything that doesn't fit somewhere else & general forum updates
#145952
Hi,
I got this Powewheel from a neighbour and I know almost nothing about it. It seems to be from "Mini-motors of America" and it has a single 6V motor. The body is pretty much just one big piece of plastic. The body has lots of scratches and I don't like the design too much so I will likely repaint it Ferrari red or something like that. I would really like to make it faster or more powerful. Anyone has ideas on what I can do to boost it a bit? There is not much room to play with :( . This is my first real mod (beyond just paint) so pointing me to detailed instructions would be more than welcomed.

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#145955
Does it currently run under its own power?
I don't see how that gearbox connects with the wheels?
I'm guessing it's a one wheel drive, correct?
If you could pull that "axle" and provide a shaft diameter, and a more direct picture of the "driver" (the gear leaving the gearbox, that connects with the wheel), provided that the other (non-driven) wheel has a similar hub, perhaps you can add a second motor/gearbox assembly, and have a much easier time handling additional voltage, as in a 12 volt battery, and a 30 amp fuse.
That gearbox does look rather similar to some found on Fischer Price power wheels 6 volt rides, and they tend to work well on 12 volt, but additionally I would like to know what size wire that is, and a bit about the condition of the insulation. The wire itself should have some labeling, blah blah blah 12 AWG.
Also a few more pictures of how it's all wired, to get an approximate length if it's smaller than 14 AWG. That's the absolute smallest I'd feel safe using, however if you're interested in replacing any wire, I'd certainly recommend going larger! I think that's about all I can offer at this time, other than welcome to the forum, and to your new modified illness!
#145956
I can almost see were you can read the wires....
Black wire near switches, silver/grey lettering
And
One of the wires maybe the ground connection to the battery?
The insulation appears to be supple, but just give it a bend, and confirm its not brittle. I'm guessing that's a fairly old unit, but definitely appears to have been stored indoors and well taken care of, as there appears to be no corrosion! But still, any wiring deficiency will cause resistance, causing heat, and will affect things, like switches and motors, and even more so at the boosted voltage!
#145960
The car is pretty cool. Sourcing a direct fit gearbox to add to the other side is going to be difficult at best. You would probably end up having to fab up a way to connect another set of gearboxes. A cheaper option would be to run your current stock setup at 12v until it dies or you could replace the one 6v motor with a 12v motor and run it at 18v. Keep in mind that kids outgrow those smaller cars pretty quick. If it runs, let them drive it until they are ready to upgrade. Then up the voltage by adding 6v more to the stock voltage. If you need to mod further before they outgrow it I would try to add a second gearbox/motor with increased voltage. Just some food for thought.

Does anything on this website look like it would fit your car?
https://tigerimports.net/sunshop/index. ... list&c=223
#145980
Ok, finally had time to spend on it so I have a few answers:
- Yes, it runs under its own power
- I have added a few pictures
- It's a one wheel drive
- Wire says: LL-31629 Type AWM 105*C VW-1 E- 53035, so equivalent to 14 AWG I think?
- Insulation looks fine in general but these wires look old, I wouldn't mind re-wiring it all if need be.
- Yes the gearbox look similar to Fisher Price 6 volts.
- The wiring is relatively simple, the way it works is that there are 3 feet buttons, 1 to go forward, 1 for reverse and one that needs to be pushed for power (so to go you need to hold the first 2 buttons, pushing only forward won't do anything).
- I have no idea on how to measure the diameter of the shaft accurately but circumference is 1"
- The stuff in the tigerimports link doesn't look very similar, maybe I can confirm when I take out the motor.

So again, any advice on how you would upgrade it is welcomed. Also, if you suggest upgrading to 12v or 18v (depending on the motor setup), can you point out the battery spec you recommend?

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#145981
So somehow the gearbox is grabbing the axle Huh? That's crazy! Normally with a Fischer Price power wheels,, there's a piece that goes between the gearbox and the wheel. Kinda looks like a top hat,but the axle goes through the center free to spin, and the brim "grabs" the wheel. Tomorrow I'll look for some good pictures. As far as a battery,well that's going to be available from a few different suppliers, but is primarily dependant upon the size of the location the battery safely sits. You currently have a 6 volt 12 amp hour (Ah) I believe. If it's tight, you may have a drive time issue, without some fabrication.
Volts equals speed, and Ah equates to the duration.
Batterysharks.com has a pretty nice way of showing their SLA (sealed lead acid) which is by far the safest type, in a by size list. Choose "by volt and amp".
SLA's can be used in any position, but are recommended to be charged in an upright position with the terminals on top.
I'll try to dig up some links for pictures of the stock power wheels set up tomorrow.

To measure the diameter of the metal bar, you either will need a "caliper" to grab and measure the middle of it that is accessible, or you can use a tape measure at the end of it.

Also, there's no good way to remove scratches, but some blemishes can at times be removed with delicate use of a heatgun. YOU MUST be careful, start on low, and keep it moving,or you CAN make garbage QUICK! Start BIG, and SLOWLY warm up a surface, and with time you'll begin to notice a bit or restoration. It can, n with practice, begin to bring back a lustre or shine in areas that were oddly faded,but it WILL NOT turn dusty/chalky plastic back. Say for example the front fin has stress marks whitening the nose cone area, a heatgun can with practice and patience, reduce the amount of stress markings. But again, starting nice and easy!
#145996
Man, I spent over an hour trying to find a decent picture of how a standard power wheels brand joins the gearbox and wheels, but I can't find anything to show all 3 components? It'll take a few posts of links, but the closest I can do is provide links to the 3 parts separately. I've read and tried to add pictures, but code is not my forte! And imagur or whatever I'm not someone interested in figuring out another password, sorry.
#145997
Here's a 6 volt gearbox, this company is out of stock, but has a good picture, and I had a window to them open from checking on other parts .....


Gearbox

http://kidcarsandparts.com/power-wheels-147/



Driver/ top hat

http://kidcarsandparts.com/power-wheels-104/




Back side of a wheel

http://hobbymasters.com/power-wheels-b7 ... heel-tire/



The top of the hat, web looking,goes to the gearbox, and the brim of the hat mates with the nubs on the wheel.
That's going to be the difficult part of adding a gearbox, in that you will NEED to have a match set of gearboxes, so ultimately what may be best for you is to purchase an axle, a pair of complete motor/gearbox assemblies, a pair of drivers, and a set of wheels. Depending upon how tall your current wheels are, you probably will need to have hubcaps to help center the wheel. I apologize for my inability to describe it.... where do you live? Hopefully someone that is still active here will live near you, and I'd imagine that some of these goofballs are like me and have (not necessarily a surplus) but some parts on hand to help try fitment and provide a hands on example, without having to order a big box of failure. Not that the dealers are jerks, but more a matter of the shipping cost involved if things don't fit. 6 volt look the same, but the newer #7R are supposedly better, and would be a nice improvement. Plus those are 12 volt, so adapt to 18 volt better. But #7's are considerably larger.

Hopefully this helps more than confuses, all the heat and humidity have me at brain fade, and I'm not well worded to begin with!
#146009
Wow, it does seem I'm in for a wild ride here...
Thanks for all the info, really helps getting me to understand how things fit together.
I'll measure the wheels when I get home and post it here.
I live in Canada and I doubt there are too many enthusiasts around so I try to use Craigslist and curb side garbage to find parts :)
#146575
I have the Kingsbury 1989 Batmobile and found this thread hoping to get some help on getting it running again. The underside of the batmobile looks identical to the one posted here by OP. It seems like I'm missing the connection piece (one black/red) the red end plugs into the black then 2 wires go into a fuse? then connect to the battery (which I also need to order). Can anyone link a store where I can find that part?
#146722
I'm not sure you will be able to find that exact part but you can find something similar in electronic shops. I think the connector is there just for convenience when doing repairs so you can separate the back of the car. Yes, it's a simple 10A fuse. Send me pictures if you need more help.

I'm still working on the body of this project, it has some nasty cracks and small parts gone. I removed all stickers, cleaned and sanded it.

I biggest issue is removing the wheels (held with a top hat push nut) and having a way of putting it back. Any ideas?
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