Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Anything that doesn't fit somewhere else & general forum updates
#150989
Hello all,
New poster to the forum but frequent reader- a dad from southeastern PA, USA. I've been running and repairing two older model Power Wheels without many issues, a Kawasaki Ninja and Barbie Jeep- just basic running and I haven't delved much into performance improvements, but like to think of myself as somewhat handy. However, this issue has really got me stumped.
I picked up a free non-working Power Wheels CAT dump truck 98656 and my son has been really begging me to get it working. Its a simple 6v model with forward/backward motion (no hi/low speed). The motors looked shot, and the forward/backward switch didn't look great. The gearboxes look almost new inside, so I don't think it had much action. Got a new battery, forward/backward switch and motors.
The problem is when the electrical system is not attached to the motors, everything seems to check out. With my multimeter, I get a reading of about 6v at the ends of the wiring harness that connects to the motors when the pedal is pressed, and -6v when the switch is placed in reverse. The positive and negative wires are split into two each for the two motors, and the two red and two black wires all indicate the amount of voltage expected. However, when I connect the wiring harness to one or both of the motors, I get no voltage at all, and obviously no movement.
This is probably not a proper way to test the motors, but when I connect a 9v battery to the motors they both work, so independently it seems both the motors and electrical systems work, but when connected to each other, nothing at all. Has anybody run into something like this before? Am I missing something?
Thanks for reading!


#151009
Yeah I'm going to have to agree with atom, enough to carry the voltage but not enough to make it Chooch. I see this a lot with 24 volt Transformers and in some switches where the contacts are just barely making , but as soon as you put a load on it it basically just arcs away any continuity U had. it'll read fine with the fluke but as soon as you go to throw a load on it it just gives up. I would make up some alligator clip leads and hook up one side to the motors and just keep testing with the other end at every point before and after your switches to see where you're losing the voltage. Start from the battery and you'll find the problem somewhere lol I hope this helps. If you need further help I'm up in the Northeast Scranton area but I'm always down in Philly , Philly outlying area for work.
#151010
On a further note I forgot to mention just keep in mind your polarity LOL
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