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Anything that doesn't fit somewhere else & general forum updates
By kidTrax28
#26037
Hello, I am working on bypassing the board for a Kid Trax Tonka Dump Truck. I am a newbie to this field so I had some general operational questions as well as technical questions about these diagrams. I am using the ones that were posted by 12vwiz on the kid trax fire engine (hopefully pics attach to this post). My wire colors are different so I traced each wire, tested and recorded its function so I could wire it according to these instructions. On the wiring diagram, it appears that gray is energized by the 2nd gear position and purple is energized by the reverse position. If that is the case than my Dump truck is the exact opposite. I wanted to double check before I changed the configuration. I also was wondering how the motors are suppose to run, for instance does 1st gear simply energize one motor and 2nd gear energize both at the same time? I also don’t know what the auto brakes are that R5 mentions. Any input is greatly appreciated.
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User avatar
By 12vwiz
#26197
Readers, that drawing was pulled from my build thread on the archived forums. The electrical portion is a must read if attempting this mod!
Kid Trax Fire Truck...keep em rollin

kidTrax28 wrote: On the wiring diagram, it appears that gray is energized by the 2nd gear position and purple is energized by the reverse position. If that is the case than my Dump truck is the exact opposite. I wanted to double check before I changed the configuration.
You are reading my drawing correctly. I would wire it as the drawing suggest. If the shifter functions backwards, at that time, swap the wires at the shifter.
I also was wondering how the motors are suppose to run, for instance does 1st gear simply energize one motor and 2nd gear energize both at the same time?
Both motors work in all gear positions. You will have 6 volts when 1st and reverse are engaged and 12 volts when 2nd gear is engaged.
When the shifter is in 1st or reverse, relays R1and R2 won’t receive voltage to their coils, leaving them in their default position. This keeps the motors wired in series. When the shifter is in 2nd gear relays R1 and R2 will receive voltage to their coils and change the wiring configuration from series to parallel.
I also don’t know what the auto brakes are that R5 mentions.
When a child lets off the foot pedal the toy will automatically stop. Relay R5 (by default) is shunting the two motor wires together. This creates an internal conflict between the permanent magnets and the generated electromagnets inside the motors. When this happens, a massive amount of internal resistance is created which causes the motors to lockup. When the foot pedal is pushed down 12v is applied to its coil and removes the shunt while applying voltage to the motors to make the toy go.
Last edited by 12vwiz on Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:21 pm, edited 3 times in total.
By rooster2481
#31693
I just bought a used pink C5 vette at a yard sale for my little girls, and it worked for a little while, then the circuit board started making a clicking noise and I realized I had a major problem. I decided to go with the relay option for rewiring the car. I made most all of the connections but I cannot figure out where the accessory wires are supposed to go to. Is it the keyswitch? Can you clarify what is meant on your diagram by "12v accessory" and "Drive Train" I assumed drive train meant the leads from the battery. there are 4 wires connected on the keyswitch, 3 oranges and a red one, is this the accessory location? any info would be helpful. thanks a bunch for your diagram, it was very helpful!
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#31721
No problem!

They are both power input leads for the system. If you are only using a single 12 volt source. Take both pair to the battery (Fused). The little S looking symbols on the drawing (in the area we are talking about) are fuse locations. The small red wire should be fused with a 5 amp, and the larger red wire gets a 30 amp.

I split them up should someone decide to over-volt the motors (drive train) to 18v. They could keep the little red wire on a 12v tap to keep the electronics safe.

Play safe!
Jerry

.
Last edited by 12vwiz on Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By rooster2481
#31899
12vwiz,

thanks for your reply,
I attached the accessory wires like you said, but it still isnt working,
the odd thing was that when I was testing voltage in the wires i removed the negative coming off the center of #5 relay
and my daughter just happened to turn the key then, and the engine noise started and all the stuff that works off the wheel worked. I then tried the gas pedal and the motors made a small clicking noise, similar to the noise the circuit board made but a lot quieter. Are my motors bad? or do I just not have it wired correctly. I looked over the diagram to make sure everything was wired correctly (except for the negative being off the center of #5) and it all looked ok. I think I may need to make sure all the connections are mechanically correct. Any comments, hints or suggestions would be extremely helpful.
thanks,

jake
By rooster2481
#32545
I put a fuse in line to the battery and hooked it up, and blew the fuse immediately,
The battery and charger are brand new (they were the reason the people selling at the garage sale wanted $75 for it)

I'm using 14 gauge wire in all the places on your diagram that show the larger lines and 16 gauge for the smaller wires
Could I be blowing the fuse because I have too small of wire?

Went through and redid some of the connections as well, trying to find if maybe I didn't hook something together correctly. and have also double checked and triple checked the diagram to make sure its hooked up properly

If I wasn't worried about having the slower gear, could I eliminate R2? what would that diagram look like? Is that even possible to do?
Supposed to have a friend come by and look at it today and hopefully figure where I went wrong
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#32569
Dang, I hate your having problems.

So the low humming noise you described in your previous post was caused by a dead short and no fuse was installed. I hope you didn’t damage anything(like welding a relay closed). Never test then fuse! Testing is when you need it the most. It protects you and your work.
Always Play Safe!!

The size wire is not the problem but I would rather see people use 12ga as a minimum for the larger lines and 18ga for smaller lines.

Eliminating just R2 will cause the problem your describing. As stated above R1 and R2 relays control the high/low functions. To eliminate low speed you must remove both. What fuse did you blow? I have two fuses at the power source in my drawing. One on the accessory B+ power (use a 3 or 5 amp fuse) and one on the drive-train (a 30a at 12v or 40 amp fuse at 18v). Depending on which one blew, will tell you what direction to search for your problem.

This is a two circuit system so isolate them and do a low current operations test.

1. Install the accessory fuse only. If it pops, check all small Gage wiring, if not continue and at any time during this test it blows. Your problem will be isolated to whatever you just did so check that area.

2. With the shifter in the center (low speed) Turn the toys key switch to the on position. The stock lights and sounds should work.

3. Shifter - Starting in low speed, shift to high. Both R1 and R2 should make the clicking noise.

4. Shifter - Starting in low position, shift to reverse. Both R3 and R4 should make the clicking noise.

5. Foot pedal - press down on it. Only R5 should make a clicking noise.

The clicking noise (click on - click off) tells you that the relays are receiving there switch commands to their coils.
If no clicking is present, test for 12v on pins 85 and 86 of the relays in which the function is selected.
If voltage is present and still no clicking sound. You have a bad relay.

If all's good, the problem is on the high current side (the thick wires in drawing). Check for a bad motor or improper wire placement on the relays.
Last edited by 12vwiz on Fri Sep 07, 2012 6:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.
By rooster2481
#32620
12vWiz,

I haven't removed R2, so I don't believe thats a problem, lol
And I was mistaken about my wire size, i'm using 12ga for the large ones, and 16ga for the small, like you recommend

I did put the fuse (30a in-line) in after some testing, I sure hope I didnt blow something before that was installed.
I only have 1 fuse at the red battery lead, after the fuse it junctions off to the accessory and off to the relays,
you suggest that I put the junction in, and each line should have a seperate fuse? I will do that when i get home.
I think may also remove R1 and R2 and just have it go fast all the time as I dont see my daughter being very unhappy about the loss of the slow speed, (really I just want to see the thing run, as does she, if i can get that to work I may look into adding the slow gear later)

I will also do the testing that you recommend when I'm working on it tonight

thanks for all your help,
I will keep you posted on wether I get it running or not,
(will also try to get a pic put up when its done)
By rooster2481
#32669
first thing I did tonight was to put a fuse to the accessories,
so now i have a fuse to the accessories and one to the relays
I then removed R1 and R2 and reconnected the wires, as soon as I connected the battery, it blew the fuse, just like before.
after blowing the fuse, i tried the key and started the accessories (sounds, lights)
tested the 85 and 86 on R5 with the key on and was not getting 12v, it was less than 1.
but I was getting 12v at R3 and R4 but only in the forward gear position
i checked and made sure it was wired correctly and it was,
but now that I'm looking at the diagram, i realize that I did not have the gray wire wasnt attached at all,
where should this be attached to?
after getting very discouraged, I put the rear end up in the air, wired the motors directly to the battery and
they both worked...so I got that going for me
so, any ideas?
By rooster2481
#32696
12vWiz,
After much deliberation, I decided to do something I didn't want to,

After seeing that the motors worked I hooked up the accessories and motors to a light switch and it worked!
So, there's no reverse, no slow speed, and no pedal power, but there were two little girls with giant smiles on their faces
saying daddy daddy thank you thank you as they sped off in their corvette!

So far I've spent about as much money on relays, wires, and connectors as I did on the whole car, and the wife isn't wanting me to spend any more at the moment, so its probably going to be a winter project to get everything correct with the pedal and shifter, probably going to switch over to a power wheels setup.

I'll try to get some pics taken tomorrow

thanks again!
User avatar
By jparthum
#32707
If you referring to a 120VAC light switch, that's NOT a good idea. :shock: Those are only rated for 15 Amps, and that's AC, not DC - Direct Current (DC) has a MUCH greater ability to arc, and will soon weld that switch closed. If you're lucky it will weld it in the OFF position, not the ON position. :o

Tell the wife that your kids' safety is at risk :!:
User avatar
By jparthum
#32708
12VWiz's designs work, and he is concerned about your child's safety, first and foremost!

The easiest way is never the best way - just stick with it. ;)
By rooster2481
#32717
what about a toggle switch used for automotive applications? would that work ok?
i was planning on putting that on tomorrow
I do have an in-line 30 amp fuse before the switch, would that prevent any welding?
i'm so frustrated at this point and getting very discouraged
jparthum, thanks for the heads up!
User avatar
By jparthum
#32719
rooster2481 wrote:what about a toggle switch used for automotive applications? would that work ok?
Yes... if you connect it to a Relay ;) . :lol:
i was planning on putting that on tomorrow
I do have an in-line 30 amp fuse before the switch, would that prevent any welding?
No :( . If it's a standard 120VAC household light switch, it will only be rated for 15A (possibly 20A if it's a heavy duty type - for ceiling fans, etc.), but more importantly, it's rated for Alternating Current (AC) which switches polarity sixty times per second - this means that at half of any given time, there is no Positive current on any of the switch contacts, so there is half the chance of it arcing and welding the contacts. If you've ever tried to operate a light switch (connected to a light in a building) very slowly, you've probably heard a buzzing sound just as the light starts to flicker (not a recommendation, BTW) - this is the current arcing across the contacts, which would eventually melt them. If the light fixture has a 100 Watt bulb in it, then at 120V that equates to less than 1A of current (100W / 120V = .833~A), and only for half of the time on each switch contact. Your BPRO can potentially draw 30 times that much current, and it is on the switch contacts at all times because it's Direct Current (DC). Image
i'm so frustrated at this point and getting very discouraged
jparthum, thanks for the heads up!
Just slow down, double-check, and go one step at a time - you'll get it it, I promise. 8-)
By fisher
#37245
Posts combined by chozian (moderator).

Hello Everyone,
I am wanting to do this mod on a later model Kid Trax Barbie Vette because fast gear is no longer working, and I will probably want to upgrade to 18v soon after getting it back (or add a 6v turbo switch). I have rewired horns, turn signals, lights etc on my motorcycle, but going on just descriptions and schematics from this thread is difficult for me in this case. By looking at the diagrams, it looks like the plug is cut off to bypass the board, but the fuse is placed beetween a cut wire and the battery :?: I was was thinking that an actual picture of this mod would help me a bunch. Strangely enough, the diagram of the relays makes sense to me, but the "Stock wires after cutting plug off" part has me stumped. I am sure it is the easiest part to understand, but I am just not getting it for some reason.
Last edited by fisher on Thu Sep 15, 2011 12:51 pm, edited 3 times in total.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#37371
Did you read my original thread?
fisher wrote:By looking at the diagrams, it looks like the plug is cut off to bypass the board, but the fuse is placed between a cut wire and the battery :?:
That's right! The small red wire that you cut off the circuit board needs to go to a 12v source. It feeds power to the key switch so the lights and sounds will work while also feeding a B+ signal to the foot pedal and shifter to allow them to control the relays.
I was thinking that an actual picture of this mod would help me a bunch. Strangely enough, the diagram of the relays makes sense to me, but the "Stock wires after cutting plug off" part has me stumped. I am sure it is the easiest part to understand, but I am just not getting it for some reason.
You're looking at the very best picture on how to do this in the world :P :P :lol:

The red things in the drawing are Butt connectors. ;)

Post a picture of your circuit board so I can better help.
Last edited by 12vwiz on Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By fisher
#37447
12vwiz wrote: That's right! The small red wire that you cut off the circuit board needs to go to a 12v source. It feeds power to the key switch so the lights and sounds will work wile also feeding a B+ signal to the foot pedal and shifter to allow them to control the relays.

The red things in the drawing are Butt connectors. ;)

.
Thanks a bunch!!! After reading this, I held the diagram upsidedown and it all made sense. :D I have some work to do.
Last edited by fisher on Fri Sep 16, 2011 2:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#37496
Funny... I always consider myself as a backwards thinker, never an upside down one...So I flipped my monitor over and it looked the same. :shock: Whatever works. Right? :D
Take your time and play safe!!
Jerry
Last edited by 12vwiz on Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
By fisher
#38227
UGHHHHH!
I wired it up, but there is something wrong. In neutral, it makes the engine noise when I turn the ignition key, turn signals and horn work, (The dashboard RPM lights don't though) but when I put it in any gear, everything shuts down. In gear, no sounds or lights. No wheel action anytime. The shifter is brand new(although from a different model of Kid Trax Vette. Before the bypass attempt the shifter had neutral reverse and low but not high.).I suspect some wiring from the shifter is wrong. I'll go over it this weekend.
BTW- It also beeps at me. Beep..Beep.Beep When in neutral. It never did that before.
Also, where the drivetrain negative splits, instead of splicing, I doubled up on the relay connector instead. Does that matter? (The 87as on R4 and R5 are jumpered to 87 on R3.) I twisted the pos together to meet on R1 87 as well, instead of meeting on a separate wire. Maybe that matters?
Last edited by fisher on Fri Sep 23, 2011 10:54 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#38232
fisher wrote:In neutral, it makes the engine noise when I turn the ignition key, turn signals and horn work, (The dashboard RPM lights don't though)
That's odd, the dashboard lights should be getting there voltage from the same source.
but when I put it in any gear, everything shuts down. In gear, no sounds or lights. No wheel action anytime. The shifter is brand new(although from a different model of Kid Trax Vette. Before the bypass attempt the shifter had neutral reverse and low but not high.)
My son drives three Kid Trax brand Toys, a Fire truck, Police car and Dodge Viper. They all have a three position shifter, not four. I never heard of one having a neutral selection.
This drawing is designed to work with a three position shifter that looks like the one in this photo and it also shows you the proper wire location.

Image
If your shifter is different, post a picture and leave it disconnected.

FYI:
If the shifter is removed from the circuit and the rest of your wiring is correct. The toy will automatically default to low forward speed only when the foot pedal is pushed down...
BTW- It also beeps at me. Beep..Beep.Beep When in neutral. It never did that before.
Also, where the drivetrain negative splits, instead of splicing, I doubled up on the relay connector instead. Does that matter? (The 87as on R4 and R5 are jumpered to 87 on R3.) I twisted the pos together to meet on R1 87 as well, instead of meeting on a separate wire. Maybe that matters?
I'm not sure I under understand, but if you’re telling me R3 pin 87 is only making electrical contact to R4 pin 87a and R5 pin 87a, an then to battery B-, it shouldn't be a problem.
Post some Pictures!
Last edited by 12vwiz on Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#38262
To update readers, fisher is wanting to add a 18v turbo button using a variable pulse timer to enable him to get up to a 90 second boost with a single push of the switch.

Here is the original thread on this topic:
Pulse timer SPDT NOS with illuminated button.


This particular drawing is showing the Turbo/NOS relay added without the use of a timer. I thought I would throw in some batteries too. :D
Image

This drawing shows the wiring with the timer and a SPST on/off switch added. It is proprietary to the timer in the link posted above. The black dotted line represents the black/white wire coming off the timer, all other colors match. ;)
Image
Last edited by 12vwiz on Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.
By fisher
#38305
I know I don't have the exact pictures that will solve my problem, but here is what I took yesterday. (I took the day off of mods today) I am curious about the blue and white wires which are still plugged into the board. I will track down their destinations tomorrow.
Also, I have no neutral gear. I was incorrectly remembering how it worked. I have stock Kid Trax with 3 gears; High, low and reverse. When I shift out of low, everything dies.

Image

Image

I will take pictures of my wiring tomorrow. Thanks again for the help.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#38342
fisher wrote: I am curious about the blue and white wires which are still plugged into the board. I will track down their destinations tomorrow.
Me too. No one has ever talked about those two wires. You need to keep in mind that this drawing was for the fire truck.
Also, I have no neutral gear. I was incorrectly remembering how it worked. I have stock Kid Trax with 3 gears; high, low and reverse. When I shift out of low, everything dies.
DO NOT put power back on it!

I think there is something different about this toy. I can’t tell from the photo, but the colors don't look like they match the pin locations that I posted. I have color locations posted on the same photo at the shifter (check).
Do they match? Are all colors accounted for? Does the shifter only have 3 wires going to it, one with a jumper wire making up the 4th connection on shifter? Does the foot pedal switch have just two wires on it, with no jumper wires?
Last edited by 12vwiz on Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#38354
YOU GOT REAL LUCKY!

I went out an took a look at my sons Dodge viper (still has all virgin wiring). It has the same setup as you have in your vett, with exception of the blue and white wires. I still need to know where they go.

You had several red flags. One, your plug only has eight wires, one less orange than what I show in drawing. I also looked at the foot pedal and it has a jumper on the brown wire going to the dash area, not shown in drawing. Where your luck comes into play, all the colors are the same, so only a minor change needed.

Now, where I'm showing two orange wires being connected to two pink wires. You should only have one orange connected to the pinks. Then you will need to cut/remove the brown wire jumping from foot pedal going to dash and abandon it for now, while leaving the one going to the rear connected to the pedal. Your shifter and foot pedal should now match what I posted above - check

After doing this and checking all your connection for accuracy, should you put fused power back to it for testing.
Leave it in low gear at first an test its function. If it works, only then do you try other selections.
By fisher
#38378
A quick update. I am quite optimistic now. The beeping was a low battery indicator. :oops: It barely had enough juice to turn the wheel when hooked up directly. It will be fully charged tomorrow.
I removed the board. One of the relays was coroded at the terminal. Probably why it wouldn't go into fast mode.
The pedal only has 2 connections.
The shifter has 3 wires, one of which has a jumper. (I think I have it connected correctly).
The blue and white wires are the center pair of tailights. I'll hook them up later.
My plug had 9 wires.
I have a 30 amp inline fuse installed.
If it works, I'll clean up the connections and post some pics for future reference.
Hopefully I'll be working on the turbo and headlights soon. :D
Thanks again.
Last edited by fisher on Sun Sep 25, 2011 5:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#38407
fisher wrote:A quick update. I am quite optimistic now. The beeping was a low battery indicator. :oops: It barely had enough juice to turn the wheel when hooked up directly. It will be fully charged tomorrow.
That is good news... well, its better than what I thought. :D
The pedal only has 2 connections. The shifter has 3 wires, one of which has a jumper. (I think I have it connected correctly).
2 connection with no jumper on brown wire, GOOD! :D
If Both pink wires are on the same side (left or right) and the purple and gray wires are on the other side in the wrong location. The shifter would just function backwards. Just swap the purple and gray - fixed.
My plug had 9 wires.
I have a 30 amp inline fuse installed.
9 wires, GOOD!! :D
I will re post what I learned about the plug with only eight wires in a day or so, and it will be in RED! It looks like those suckers cut cost by saving about 3 feet of 20ga wire. :oops: Good thing its an easy fix. Now we are aware of it!!

A 30 amp fuse is good for the 12v drive-train circuit, but you will also need to put a 5 amp fuse where your catching accessory 12v power. This protects all the little wires, on-board electronics and the relay coils in the event something goes wrong.
If it works, I'll clean up the connections and post some pics for future reference.
Hopefully I'll be working on the turbo and headlights soon. :D
Thanks again.
:P It better work!
FYI:
For some reason the fake key switch is a DPST or a DPDT switch, but only using one side of it. If you ran a dedicated fused power feed through the unused side to power your light switch or any other add on accessories. They will turn off with the key too. ;)
Last edited by 12vwiz on Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:42 pm, edited 3 times in total.
By fisher
#38544
Woohooo! The kids LOVED driving the Vette again. Thanks again :!: They were a little disapointed that it is a little slower than the PW jeep though. Getting this turbo button working is next up. My computer and printer are having trouble differentiating the colors on the the drawing though. My timer has the following wires. Blue loop, B/W, Black, Redish, Yellow, Orange, Brown.
I am thinking the toggle switch is not necessary now. I just want to do momentary push button to enable, which would reset. So from the timer I should not cut the blue loop, put brown on R6,86; Black on R6 85; yellow to pos 5 amp fused accessory; B/W to accessory neg, with the momentary push button between ( I am wanting the kind that does not have on position with one press, then off position with the other.) Does this sound correct?

Image

Image

The dream set-up, would be an illuminated momentary push button which would light up when the turbo is not engaged, signaling that it is ready to go at the push of that button. The problem there is that I have not found any of those types of buttons which have 4 pins, which I believe would be required. I have seen 3 pin illuminated buttons, but I don't think that will work here (I could be wrong). The only 4 pin lighted buttons I have found have been the type which have the "Push Once open/ Push once again closed" type. I wonder if a lighted "reset" style is possible. If not, I can wire an indicator light, mounted on the dash, on the 12v circuit. It would go out when the 18v circuit is engaged. Either way is fine with me.
I should also mention that I was playing around with the timer and relay tonight with a 9v battery. I was able able to get some loud clicks out of both at first, but now both remain silent. Certainly one can not fry the components with a little 9v battery :?: Is there a function check I can do on the relay and timer with a multimeter to ensure they are operational before I incorporate on the vehicle?
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#38596
fisher wrote: My timer has the following wires. Blue loop, B/W, Black, Redish, Yellow, Orange, Brown.
I am thinking the toggle switch is not necessary now. I just want to do momentary push button to enable, which would reset.
You can defiantly do without the toggle switch, but you might consider keeping it and put it in an inconspicuous location. If there’s a chance a novice driver was behind the wheel or the terrain is was too harsh. You can flip the access to 18v off.
So from the timer I should not cut the blue loop, put brown on R6,86; Black on R6 85; yellow to pos 5 amp fused accessory; B/W to accessory neg, with the momentary push button between ( I am wanting the kind that does not have on position with one press, then off position with the other.) Does this sound correct?
Correct, except you left out the red. Both the red and the yellow tie together and go to the switched B+ (labeled fake key switch in drawing) not the constant accessory B+ feed. It will still be fuse. The orange wire with the X on it is not needed, but it will have 12v+ on it when the turbo relay is not engaged, so isolate. you need a monetary switch that is "open" at rest.
The dream set-up, would be an illuminated momentary push button which would light up when the turbo is not engaged, signaling that it is ready to go at the push of that button. The problem there is that I have not found any of those types of buttons which have 4 pins, which I believe would be required. I have seen 3 pin illuminated buttons, but I don't think that will work here (I could be wrong). The only 4 pin lighted buttons I have found have been the type which have the "Push Once open/ Push once again closed" type. I wonder if a lighted "reset" style is possible. If not, I can wire an indicator light, mounted on the dash, on the 12v circuit. It would go out when the 18v circuit is engaged. Either way is fine with me.
You are defiantly on the right track here! I believe it would need and external LED or like you said “a 4 pin switch”. As for LED… ground the negative (the little black wire goes all the way to dash so save wire and tap into it up there. If you install the toggle you can catch the B+ on the same side as the yellow and red of the timer. Doing this the LED will stay lit when 18v is available and turn off when either the key or the hidden toggle is turned off…..Waite…….. You could use the orange wire on the timer to supply the b+ and do just what you want. Light up when the turbo is not engaged!!
I should also mention that I was playing around with the timer and relay tonight with a 9v battery. I was able able to get some loud clicks out of both at first, but now both remain silent. Certainly one cannot fry the components with a little 9v battery :?: Is there a function check I can do on the relay and timer with a multimeter to ensure they are operational before I incorporate on the vehicle?
:o In all my years [insert head shake here] NOooo ! You put the timer circuit at risk not the relays (internal or external). Cross fingers.
Put 12v+ on the red and ground the solid black. Then tap the black/white to ground. This should activate timer and click the internal relay on for the adjusted time.
Last edited by 12vwiz on Tue Feb 28, 2012 10:55 am, edited 2 times in total.
By fisher
#38923
The kids are LOVING the Turbo! Now I'm supposed to turbo the Jeep too :D

I function checked the timer, and it clicked, but it didn't kick in the turbo when installed. Maybe I still fried it. Maybe I had a bad connection. I ended up just using the "enable" switch to carry 12v from the switched accesory and wiring without a button until I can resolve the timer issue. The switch is rated 12v, 20 amps. The kids are cool with it the way it is. I don't have a separate indicator light yet, but I grounded the LED on the switch, and it lights up when turbo is on.
The button is pretty heavy duty; so much so that the kids could not fully press it, so I installed it on the floorboard so they can give it a stomp to activate it. That of course is for when I hook it up.
The 40, 30 and 5 amp fuses are installed.
Here are some pics:



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Last edited by fisher on Thu Sep 29, 2011 10:23 pm, edited 7 times in total.
By hopper
#49915
did the relay setup on on a safetyfirst corvette. There is on pair of wires left over. It is a blue wire and a white wire. Anybody have any ideas?
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#49937
hopper wrote:did the relay setup on on a safetyfirst corvette. There is on pair of wires left over. It is a blue wire and a white wire. Anybody have any ideas?

fisher wrote this a few post back
fisher wrote:
The blue and white wires are the center pair of tailights.
.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#54413
Quote copied from THIS thread.
miadr wrote: reading the instructions I am lost on the second step which states "get the black and red to a 3 to 5amp fuse" I have done everything except this step which I am not sure on. I will try to get some pictures uploaded if that s ok
Pictures are always welcomed!

The small red and black wires are 'isolated' low current power wires for a 12v supply to the relays and stock electronics. The Black wire goes directly to the negative of the 12v battery. The red wire gets a fuse inline prior to hooking it to the positive side of the battery. This can be a with a 3 or 5 amp rated fuse.

If that docent help you, read through the above posts to see if you get a better understand. If not post away!
Last edited by 12vwiz on Sun Feb 26, 2012 5:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By miadr
#54417
i need you help guys... 12vwiz thank you for the push in the right direction. After reading this post I realized that you had seperated the sole red wire to another battery but since I am using only one battery source all I have to do is connect that and the other fused wire to the + wire. THANKS!!!

ok now to my current issues...I realized that i also have the blue and white wire for the lights (WHICH BY THE WAY I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT TO DO WITH THEM) I have power to the accessory sounds. When I turn on the key the cars makes its noise and when I hit the buttons on the steering wheel 3 of the 4 make a sound. I have no idea why not the four, so if someone has any suggestions that would be great. (like what to do with the two wires)

The big thing is that I have no power to the motors. I thought that I did everything right. I verifed the diagram to what I actually have and it seems true. Before I started all this I made sure that the motors work. I connected a 12v battery directly to each motor and they turned on so I think the motors are good. Also, before I cut any wires I had connected the 12v battery as normal and noticed that REVERSE worked when the pedal was pushed, 1st gear and 2nd gear had a clikcing noise when the pedal was pressed. This is when I decided to go ahead and do the bypass.

As of right now the accessories work with 3 of the 4 buttons. I have no action on the motors with a battery connected (fused) however, when connected directly to the motors they move. I have no idea what to do with the blue and white wire that are still on the motherboard. Also check for continuity from motor to relay and from the battery end to where the wire for the battery connects to the relays. (they all checked out good.)

all the wiring! this is nuts...
Image

the mother board with the blue and white wire which i dont know what to do...(keep in mind i have no elec., experience)
Image

pedal switch that has 3 connectors the top is brown wire second pink and the third is blank
Image

wanted to show the throttle switch just in case the connectors are not in the right place.
Image

well any help is greatly appreciated guys and I look forward to being able to contribute sometime in the future so I am not only asking questions!
Last edited by miadr on Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#54443
miadr wrote:i need you help guys... 12vwiz thank you for the push in the right direction. After reading this post I realized that you had seperated the sole red wire to another battery but since I am using only one battery source all I have to do is connect that and the other fused wire to the + wire. THANKS!!!
Yes, both independently fused!
miadr wrote: I realized that i also have the blue and white wire for the lights (WHICH BY THE WAY I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT TO DO WITH THEM)
ME EITHER! I never owned a vett. Leave them alone for now. If you want to help find out, post more details on them. Like a close up photo of the front and back of the old circuit board and the lights. If you see resistors on the lights themselves, what color are the bands? what type of bulbs are they? Bottom line... as much info as possible!
miadr wrote: I have power to the accessory sounds. When I turn on the key the cars makes its noise and when I hit the buttons on the steering wheel 3 of the 4 make a sound. I have no idead why no the fourth so if someone had any suggestions that would be great.
Did it work prior to doing the mod? I would inspect the switches in the wheel itself and do it with the fuses removed. I would think it has nothing to do with the work you are doing. its on the other side of the sound board.
miadr wrote:The big thing is that I have no power to the motors. I thought that I did everything right. I verified the diagram to what I actually have and it seems true. Before I started all this I made sure that the motors work. I connected a 12v battery directly to each motor and they turned on so I think the motors area good. Also, before I cut any wires I had connected the 12v battery as normal and noticed that REVERSE worked when the pedal was pushed, 1st gear and 2nd gear had a clicking noise when the pedal was pressed. This is when I decided to go ahead and do the bypass.

I have no action on the motors with a battery connected (fused) Also check for continuity from motor to relay and from the battery end to where the wire for the battery connects to the relays. (they all checked out good.)
Take a good look at the shifter and foot pedal on yours and compare it to the one I posted. It is different!! Have you at any point removed those wires? If not, my wiring should still work if the switches are good. They look to be in the correct location. The pink wires should have 12v on them when the key is 'ON'. The brown, violet, and gray should return the 12v to their respective relays when that switch is activated.
______________________________________________________________________________________________________

SIDE NOTE:
miadr wrote:well any help is greatly appreciated guys and I look forward to being able to contribute sometime in the future so I am not only asking questions!

Your are Contributing Now!
To the best of my knowledge that is the only photo of that style shifter (wire view) on this and the archived forum. If you see any writing on the switches, post that Info. I'm asking because that switch set looks Identical to the pin layout of the Power Wheels brand toy, and if they can handle high current. All someone would need to do is swap the wiring harness from a donor toy, and combine my modified FAQ drawing to control the accessories. There is a link to it on my original build thread, but here is the drawing itself.

Image

At this point you are doing the right mod. If they cant handle the full current, a child's safety would be at risk. So until someone can prove that they are high current (Anyone?) switches. We must assume they are not, and Keep low current on them like originally designed.

Now I wonder if PW switches would fit. (Anyone ?)

ImageImage
Last edited by 12vwiz on Mon Feb 27, 2012 12:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
By miadr
#54624
12vwiz! and others...I got it working!!!!!!!
Quickly, if anyone else has this VETTE and is doubting this process, don't. I followed 12vwiz original instructions and it worked.
I had stated previously that once the connections were in and I tested for continuity the motors were not working. This occurred due to my lack of knowledge. I am only using ONE battery for now and my mistake was to test the accessory and the motors separately. This is not the case in order for the motors to work, I needed to have the accessory and the motor wiring connected to the battery. It seems that the TWO PINK wires also give some power or current to the shifter and accelerator. You can see the pink wires in the pictures. Thank you, I will give an update on the 4th button and the blue & white wires that are for the lights as I didnt have time to check any of that (maybe this weekend).
By summbear48
#63140
So looked through the kid trax fire truck set up and now this one, I am getting really excited. My situation is for the batmobile (the one with the blue plastic fins), I believe someone also set theres up as a bughatti! What I am wondering 12vwiz (because I didnt quite follow what fisher was doing) was, if I am using a 12v and 6v battery where would I throw in the turbo switch to only have 6v extra going to the motors.

OR

I havent looked at my board mind you b/c I JUST got it...

could one just hook up a turbo switch AFTER the circuit board so that an extra six volts will only go to the motors and not through board? This maybe obvious...just not to me :-)

or should I assume that this relay set up is the only way to go, and then add the 18v turbo switch. I am planning on this being my drag racer so want speed but not willing to go to 24v, I think some HPI, some 21t gearboxes and an 18v nos will do just fine :-)

Thank you!
By summbear48
#63152
ok looked back over it again with different goggles on...I think the turbo is solved accept I am not using 6,6,6 but 12, 6 but really that doesnt matter correct? does this still use the "soft start" of the circuit or since we are bypassing, its basically like a PW where its full throttle when pushed. The tires on the batmobile have treads so that may eat the gears up.

the turbo button that goes to B+ just connects anywhere to the other yellow in the top left corner correct? where yellow and pink are joined?

this still keeps all the other cool sounds etc..., just bypasses for motoring correct?

I love this stuff. not even done with my extreme machine and I am planning the batmobile! at least this addiction doesnt cause lung cancer or liver failure just premature happiness and or battle scars.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#63177
summbear48 wrote:if I am using a 12v and 6v battery where would I throw in the turbo switch to only have 6v extra going to the motors.
Just follow this drawing:Image
summbear48 wrote:ok looked back over it again with different goggles on...I think the turbo is solved accept I am not using 6,6,6 but 12, 6 but really that doesnt matter correct?
Correct. On the drawing...the batteries, from left to right. Replace the two 6v's in positions 2 and 3 with your single 12v. The turbo button is the momentary switch located at the bottom left hand corner connected to the turbo relay labeled R6.
summbear48 wrote:does this still use the "soft start" of the circuit or since we are bypassing, its basically like a PW where its full throttle when pushed. The tires on the batmobile have treads so that may eat the gears up.
It will have full throttle. I taught my son to drive it like a real car...always start in first gear. In the fire truck, I only run 18v when he is the only occupant and is driving on the streets. To date he has shredded one set of gearboxes. This was due to the neighbors two older boys trying to push him backwards and my son filling the need to run them over. With the reverse momentum they didn't stand a chance.

It would be a good idea to add a 'daddy only' on/off switch inline with the turbo button so you can turn it off when the conditions aren't right.
summbear48 wrote:the turbo button that goes to B+ just connects anywhere to the other yellow in the top left corner correct? where yellow and pink are joined?
Yes.
summbear48 wrote:this still keeps all the other cool sounds etc..., just bypasses for motoring correct?.
Yes, it keeps 12v on all electronics.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#63494
summbear48 wrote:sweet. getting in front of 200 teenagers teaching science seems easy when my brain tries to do all this, I appreciate you!
Thank you!

summbear48 wrote: OR

I havent looked at my board mind you b/c I JUST got it...

could one just hook up a turbo switch AFTER the circuit board so that an extra six volts will only go to the motors and not through board? This maybe obvious...just not to me :-)
I need to know what board you have. I'm not familiar with the Batmobile layout. If it's like the one I had in the Fire truck link posted above. its not worth the hassle. If its the newer style, it might be worth investigating this avenue.
Last edited by 12vwiz on Tue May 22, 2012 12:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
By summbear48
#63649
well, I have been crying b/c I paypal'd the seller the money and then was going to pick up in the morning. he texts me late that night and says, oh someone came and picked it up?!!!!!

he gave me my money back but I was PEEVED!!! I was SO looking forward to that machine. I got robbed.....so now I am looking for another one. :(
By summbear48
#63726
12vwiz wrote:Unfortunately a good portion of society is this way. Makes me wonder what they see when looking in the mirror. On a good note. I do believe in justifiable homicide :lol:
slowly like 12v through the fingernails..
By summbear48
#66174
12vwiz wrote:Unfortunately a good portion of society is this way. Makes me wonder what they see when looking in the mirror. On a good note. I do believe in justifiable homicide :lol:
hey 12vwiz, were you in SoCal anytime soon pulling fifth wheel with the fire engine in the back of a pick up? I could have SWORN that bright red monster was in the back of the truck. Maybe just a brand new one but looked just like your fresh paint job rebuild....just asking :-)
User avatar
By drew510
#66231
summbear48 wrote:
12vwiz wrote:Unfortunately a good portion of society is this way. Makes me wonder what they see when looking in the mirror. On a good note. I do believe in justifiable homicide :lol:
hey 12vwiz, were you in SoCal anytime soon pulling fifth wheel with the fire engine in the back of a pick up? I could have SWORN that bright red monster was in the back of the truck. Maybe just a brand new one but looked just like your fresh paint job rebuild....just asking :-)
Being that he lives in Alabama, I am going to guess it wasn't him. 8-)

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