Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Anything that doesn't fit somewhere else & general forum updates
By summbear48
#66330
drew510 wrote:
summbear48 wrote:
12vwiz wrote:Unfortunately a good portion of society is this way. Makes me wonder what they see when looking in the mirror. On a good note. I do believe in justifiable homicide :lol:
hey 12vwiz, were you in SoCal anytime soon pulling fifth wheel with the fire engine in the back of a pick up? I could have SWORN that bright red monster was in the back of the truck. Maybe just a brand new one but looked just like your fresh paint job rebuild....just asking :-)
Being that he lives in Alabama, I am going to guess it wasn't him. 8-)
bummer, that firetruck was sweet :-)


User avatar
By Battman2036
#74051
If i used a switch in place of the momentary for the turbo would that effect the remainder of the circuit? I'd like to be able to choose 18v or 12v depending on the driver. I'm thinking it wouldn't matter with the exception of the GB's and motors over time and am considering a simple toggle switch.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#74070
Battman2036 wrote:If i used a switch in place of the momentary for the turbo would that effect the remainder of the circuit? I'd like to be able to choose 18v or 12v depending on the driver. I'm thinking it wouldn't matter with the exception of the GB's and motors over time and am considering a simple toggle switch.
I personally would add a hidden (arming) switch for 18v and keep a momentary push button on the steering wheel.
Noting your exceptions. Yes,It will work.
User avatar
By Battman2036
#74087
I thought as much. I'm also using your diagram for the brake pedal on a jeep and If I follow correctly, the brake light can be hooked to the Com and the NO portion so when pressed it will activate the lights?
User avatar
By Battman2036
#74110
this is the diagram i'm working from. If i'm treating the NO position as part of a switch, do I connect to the Com on the brake side to complete the circuit? or am i completely misunderstanding the plunger switch function?
Attachments
201012622138_brakefordum.gif
201012622138_brakefordum.gif (25.87 KiB) Viewed 6004 times
User avatar
By Battman2036
#74139
so with the 12V tap would I then still connect to the com on the stock plug? I was hoping to connect to the brake pedal itself rather than being on when the power is removed from the motors. I also hope i'm in the right thread.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#74157
Battman2036 wrote:so with the 12V tap would I then still connect to the com on the stock plug? I was hoping to connect to the brake pedal itself rather than being on when the power is removed from the motors. I also hope i'm in the right thread.
The com on brake switch and com on stock plug is the same (follow the drawing). When adding brake lights to this drawing the bypass switch must be omitted as an option. If it had auto brakes the lights will come on when the power is removed from the motors. Wired like I'm saying, they should light up with brake pedal down only.
User avatar
By jpdingle
#75945
rooster2481 wrote:I put a fuse in line to the battery and hooked it up, and blew the fuse immediately,
The battery and charger are brand new (they were the reason the people selling at the garage sale wanted $75 for it)

I'm using 14 gauge wire in all the places on your diagram that show the larger lines and 16 gauge for the smaller wires
Could I be blowing the fuse because I have too small of wire?

Went through and redid some of the connections as well, trying to find if maybe I didn't hook something together correctly. and have also double checked and triple checked the diagram to make sure its hooked up properly
I think I know what the issue is why the 30 amps fuse breaks up immediately when you hookup the battery eventhough the connections are correct.
Check to make sure you have the right type of 5 pin relay.
If you use the "Normal Open" relay, you will get a shorted circuit and blow up the fuse instantly.
What you want to use is the "Change Over" relay.
The difference is 87 and 87a on "Normal Open" relay are on the same line, while 87 and 87a on "Change Over" relay are on different lines, see attached pictures.
1. Normal Open
Image
2. Change Over
Image
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#76286
That is a very plausible explanation. When helping members troubleshoot I would expect that the home work has already been done. I mention in my build thread what type of relays I used. Plus there is a link showing the style/type. There are also two links provided for relay help. So having the wrong type never came to mind.

To clarify myself on this thread:
I use a standard (AKA “Chang over”) Single Pole double throw (SPDT) 12 volt relay with contacts rated at 30/40 amps.
images.jpg
images.jpg (9.94 KiB) Viewed 5957 times
Last edited by 12vwiz on Tue Sep 04, 2012 7:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By miadr
#87300
im back at this after a very long hiatus......the car has been sitting out a while and now when i accelerate I only get one gear and no reverse.... any suggestions... im ready to let it go!
By Never enough
#107547
I just removed the computer from a pink corvette over the weekend and found that the white and blue wires in question go to the center rear tail lights. I did not hook them up since the owner didn't care about them.

each wire runs to the 1 of the center tail lights. I didnt test if they are positive or ground wires or where the other wires coming off the tail lights go to.

Sorry I wish I had more time to tear into the car more. Also the leds may not be 12volts so I wouldn't just go adding 12 volts to them.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#107557
OK, I have a working circuit board in a dodge viper. It has the female plug mounted on the board but it is not being used. I tested the plug and compared it to the picture fisher posted earlier. I was able to determine that the blue wire has negative 12v present when the toy is in reverse and the foot pedal is down. The white wire has positive 12v when the toy is in reverse and the foot pedal is down. So it is acting like the Corvette has a reverse light feature. Does anyone know? Is there a clear lens on those lights?

Photo by fisher.
Image
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#107610
So the corvette has back up lights, Cool!

In the future if you want to keep this feature using the relay setup. Connect the Blue wire to terminal 85 and the white wire to terminal 86 of the relay labeled “R4” in my drawing. It should mimic the original function identically.
By Never enough
#107619
All the tail lights are red and it would be cool to have them clear. Only the two center tail lights worked in reverse. The outside tail lights work with the steering wheel buttons.

Thank you and its good to know how to set up everything. I just was given and yellow corvette with a bad board so I will make sure I hook up the lights this time.

Thanks for going through all the work to make these cars work. It takes some time to wire everything up cleanly but it works and it works great.
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#107661
It has been fun. If you haven't figured it out yet. I like these toys. :D

Red lenses.......Hmm, we have an option to make the them brake lights if we want. Simply put the wires on relay R5 instead of R4. If you do this the lights will come on when the key is turned on. They will turn off when the foot pedal is down and toy is moving. Then turn back on when the toy stops. It’s a little extra draw on battery when just sitting so the child needs to get in the habit of turning the car off when unattended.
By mangajulio
#116389
HI All,

I just want to said THank you to 12vwiz for this bypass, I was able to get up and running my yellow corvette!!!!! my son will be so happy!!!!! :shock:

But I do have a question did someone find a way to connect the extra WHITE/BLUE cables?
By mangajulio
#116397
12vwiz wrote:Thank you and welcome aboard! Making the little ones happy is what this forum is all about.

I believe the answer to your question is in my last two post (the ones just above yours)and if not just give a little more detail.
OH DAH!!!! I should read better, sweet. Thank you so much
By ATE
#132028
12wwiz, I inherited fisher's pink corvette (discussed earlier in this thread), he had it sitting in storage for a while after it stopped working. I just wanted to say thank you for all your work on this bypass. I pulled out all the wiring he did and started from scratch and it works perfectly.

I just saw the part about the reverse lights so I need to make that change, but everything else is perfect. If this hold up at 12v I will try to complete his mission and add the 18v boost with timer.
Attachments
Vette #1.jpg
Vette #1.jpg (37.5 KiB) Viewed 4889 times
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#132035
You're welcome!

FYI:
In your picture your showing the relays mounted upside down. Mounted in this fashion water will find it's way in through terminals prematurely destroying relays. Mounted with the wiring terminals facing down makes them water resistant.
By ATE
#132066
Thanks for the heads up, I will look into flipping them, but for wiring purposes that was the only way to go. Fisher just had them all floating around, I am surprised he had them working at all, looked like a rats nest.
By Siegelracing
#138574
THANK YOU! - Mostly to 12vwiz, but really to all of you who contribute, even by asking questions, us noob lurkers really appreciate all of the answers (from people like 12vwiz) and many of those wouldn't be posted if it weren't for all of the people willing to ask!

I feel like I should be able to figure this out, and I'll try, but I figured I'd post here and that way even if I do figure it out, someone might verify it, and if I've missed something, hopefully someone will let me know before I fry anything :)

So, here goes:

Can I use the board output to drive some relay's to keep the soft start / soft brake? I feel like there should be some way to take the input from the board to the motors instead of the pedal/shifter to the board...

I might be way off, but I'm hoping there's a way :)
By Siegelracing
#138631
Anyone tried soldering to the relay coil pins on the Safety 1st circuit board? Could I use those to drive separate relays to carry more volts and current with the same soft start and brake operation?
User avatar
By 12vwiz
#138671
Siegelracing wrote:
Can I use the board output to drive some relay's to keep the soft start / soft brake? I feel like there should be some way to take the input from the board to the motors instead of the pedal/shifter to the board...

I might be way off, but I'm hoping there's a way :)


Siegelracing wrote:Anyone tried soldering to the relay coil pins on the Safety 1st circuit board? Could I use those to drive separate relays to carry more volts and current with the same soft start and brake operation?
To answer your question directly:
Yes, you could catch the coil contacts off the board and use your own relays.

In my opinion:
If I had a fully functional circuit board yet wishing to modify the toys voltage – I would not modify the board itself . Could I, sure. I would op to sell it to a member who does not have the ability or desire to upgrade. Or I would keep it should I wished to reverse the process.

For my relay setup to mimic the soft start feature will require installing a adjustable timer. If I remember correctly the factory high-speed delay is between 300 to 500 ms. I never installed one. I taught my son to always start in first/low gear.

Thanks for compliments and play safe.
Jerry
User avatar
By riverat2080
#149486
I have the red fire truck went by you diagram hook every thing up I'm not getting any power to the back wheels the lights work and every other button on the steering wheel but no power to the motors in the back what should I be checking for

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