Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
All things related to paint and body work
By Ron Swanson
#149808
Hey Guys,

I'm in the middle of a painting project on a Dune Racer and would love some advice. I see a lot of useful part from the past but people's methods vary along with my mistakes already made have me unsure what to do next.

I sanded everything down with 400 grout for paint prep. Which want to bad except for the rims, man what a nightmare trying to get all those sanded down, that too 90% of my time, I would have left them the fake chrome if it wasn't already half flaked off. Hopefully they turn out ok when it's done.

So a lot of time had passed between when I looked for advice on this board and started sanding and when I finally finished sanding the evil rooms and them remembered I needed paint when I was in Lowe's. I purchased Krylon Fusion paint but also the Krylon bonding primer that states hard to bong plastics as one of its uses.

I dusted all the parts with bonding primer, two coats but the original color was still very much showing through. The did base coat, dusting for two coats and then probably 4 more coats. Then moved on to clear same procedure. All coats were about 15-20 minutes apart.

So during the process I realized the color I picked on a whim in the Lowe's ailse looked terrible, to me at least. After a couple hours I decided I for sure was not going to leave it and started sanding. It is all stuffed up to a dull finish with 400 grit waiting for a second color choice.

So my questions...
I am supposed to wait a week, preferable to before recitation. Does that apply to the next session also or just after the first session the was bonding to the plastic?

Did using the Krylon bonding primer, as I now know if not advisable affect wait time as it is what is primarily bonding to the plastic?

Is there any reason to continue to use Fusion since the plastic is already covered completely? Then could I use say Rust-Oleum and have less wait time? I am thinking about making of and two toning the flared up parts on the fenders.

I did some pieces in matte black including the hood which looks decent but splotchy in some light, is there anything I can do to get rid of it? I tried sanding it down lightly after 20 minutes, cleaned and recoated but it didn't seem to help much. It also seems to have quite a bit of shine, would I have better luck with a different brand of rattle can?

Any suggestions for paint scheme?
I am thinking now about doing gloss white and clear coat for fenders, rims and steering column, leaving flat black for hood and side tubes and leaving gloss black for steering wheel, no idea what to do with seat.
Also thinking about doing just a total blackout and make everything flat black except steering wheel and rims in gloss black and call it the batt-mobile.

Any help/ input is appreciated.

Thanks


By Ron Swanson
#149827
I went ahead and continued painting on the Dune Racer and it is shaping up a lot better than the first attempt. I went with Rust-Oleum 2x this time after reading several good things about it here and the much less wait time to recoat. I still have to put more clear down on the white, store only had 1 can and I didn't go very far. I also need to paint the seat still but I can't decide what color it should be. Any suggestions?

I'm also more concerned here about adhesion because of the textured and high wear surface. I had a lot better results with Rust-Oleum than Krylon finishing nice especially with flat colors, which is what I am leaning towards. The Rust-Oleum 2x states also bonds to plastic on the can. Can anyone with experience chime in and say how this paint has held up on a high traffic textured area?

This is just laying some peices in place to try and visualize what color to pick for seat.
IMG_20180917_064317.jpg
IMG_20180917_064317.jpg (2.78 MiB) Viewed 31 times

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