Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Help with your Paint & Body Modifications
User avatar
By DefensiveWound
#3608
:arrow: Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel. This brad is my personal preference.

Apply the first coat thin and allow to dry for 10 minutes. Second coat should be a little heavier; let dry for fifteen minutes. Continue adding medium coats, overlapping 75% on each pass, allowing 10-20 minutes between coats. If using textured paint, continue applying clear until you have buried most, if not all, of the texture. Non-textured paint should only require about 4-5 coats. Allow to fully cure. Don't be too worried about any small runs at this point.

Next, you will want to wet sand the clear. The goal of wet sanding is to remove the texture known as "orange peel" from the clear. This will also remove runs (work these carefully) and the remaing peaks from textured paint. Only wet sand the parts of the body that people really see most. Don't bother with under the hood or under the car or the floors, etc, etc. Start with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper. Cut it into smaller sections and soak in slightly soapy water for 15 minutes. Pick a small area and wet your panel with the same water and gently sand in small circles, overlapping 80-90% on each circle and keeping the sand paper as flat as possible, making sure to stay away from any edges. You WILL burn through your clear, and most likely your base, if you catch an edge. Keep an eye on the color of the residue as it should remain white. If it changes color then you burned through your clear into your base coat :o Keep your panel wet while sanding, re soak your paper. Look across your panel to see the texture while sanding, using the reflection of a surrounding light. The reflection should be distorted when you start and start to sharpen as the texture sands out. Wipe the area with a rag real quick and then blow across the panel where you just sanded. As the water evaporates you will clearly see if any texture remains. Stop once the texture is gone. Once your panel is done, completely clean the panel. Do not leave any of the residue behind. Do not leave parts with residue on them out in the sun, it will bake the residue on. Allow to fully air dry.

Use a tack rag (a sticky mesh rag) and gently wipe down your parts. Apply a medium coat of clear, making sure to reach full coverage. This coat should lay down like glass. Allow to fully cure before touching or taping.

*I prefer to apply my first two coats of clear 15 minutes after I spray my last coat of base color. This will do two things: #1 the clear will bond much better with the base coat and #2 adding a coat of clear this soon after the base eliminates the re coat limitations of the Krylon Fusion and many other paints. Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel can be recoated at any time.

Monkeydad edit:
I let the base paint sit for 7 days before clearing, then applied the decals to clear over them. Then I wiped the entire truck down with alcohol prep wipes from my medicine cabinet to remove all dust/residue.

I used hot tap water (not boiled water from stove because the can says not to expose to 125 degrees or more) and soaked the can of Rustoleum clearcoat for a half an hour before spraying. I used a can gun when spraying. I sprayed on a light coat every 10-15 minutes, before it lost its tackiness. This way, the separate coats will "merge" together and not be individual coats that can flake off, creating one thick coat in the end. Between every coat I filled a new hot pot of water and stored the can in there until the next spraying. I ended up with about 5 coats by the time I was done. It came out very glossy and dried to a very durable finish over my Krylon Fusion basecoat. Passes the scratch test without a blemish (after fully curing of course).


THIN COATS should prevent any wrinkling, drips, runs or blemishes. The first couple of coats should look like dustings, not even covering fully. If you put it on thick, that's just asking for runs and pooling buildup where the fenders/wheelwells/etc change direction. It shouldn't even look "covered" completely until at least the 3rd coat.
I knew I missed something :oops: Thanks for filling in the holes!-DefensiveWound

:!: Follow ALL re coat windows and limitations. Re coating too soon will result in massive webbing of the paint :evil:
:!: DO NOT put Lacquer over Enamel. This will also lead to massive webbing of the paint :cry: Remember- Lacquer over Enamel is :evil: Enamel over Laqcer is ok.
:!: Avoid painting when the temp. is below 55*F.
:!: Paint all edges and odd spots first before moving onto the main panels.
Last edited by DefensiveWound on Fri Jan 07, 2011 6:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By killerdwood
#17151
Very informative. I was very much wondering how I was going to paint. Thank You Very Much!! :D

Hello all, my daughter just turned 2 and my wife a[…]

Motors Bad?

so tested it out and it doesn't make since unless […]

Nascar Gordon Parts

Check the "for sale" section. Member Sig[…]

Please help me! I have a. Yk31c speed controller 4[…]

HobbyMasters