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Gruber
KidsWheels
Electronic Scooter Controllers have become a popular addition to our vehicles. Ask specific questions about ESCs here!

***WARNING*** this section is for ADVANCED MODDERS. if you try anything in this section you NEED to expect minor issues with the build up to and including complete FAILURE of EVERYTHING in your freshly built BPRO.

Have fun ;-) :-)
#134768
Depending on the physical space you have available, you can use either this pedal
http://tigerimports.net/sunshop/index.p ... il&p=13559
or this one
http://tigerimports.net/sunshop/index.p ... ail&p=8226
#134832
Those motors won't handle over 12v. On the plus side, they really are a riot at that speed!
#146579
I have a PW Dune Racer and I upgraded battery to 18v. I dont want to shred the gears as fast or burn up anything, nor am I thechinaly inclined to setup a full esc system, which I beleove I have all the stuff dor in the future maybe, so im really looking to make this idea you've posted work but as I said before I have no idea about electrical, but there's never a better time to learn than now. Can you tell me if this setup is easily possible with my power wheel.

P.s. I know this post is 2 years old but I sure hope someone will see my "cry for help/guidance"
#146627
Shambosley wrote:I have a PW Dune Racer and I upgraded battery to 18v. I dont want to shred the gears as fast or burn up anything, nor am I thechinaly inclined to setup a full esc system, which I beleove I have all the stuff dor in the future maybe, so im really looking to make this idea you've posted work but as I said before I have no idea about electrical, but there's never a better time to learn than now. Can you tell me if this setup is easily possible with my power wheel.

P.s. I know this post is 2 years old but I sure hope someone will see my "cry for help/guidance"


It will work just fine on your dune racer. However, it's about the same amount of work as a full ESC. If your budget can handle an ESC from eastcoastpowerup, I highly recommend it over any other mod.
#146696
Well as I do with anything I jump in and start buying things without noticing there is a kit with everything in it. I have a mini setup of everything layed out on a table with relays wired, brake pedal, hall-effect pedal, i have the ignition connector shorted for now so it has constant power, a spare motor wired, and I have the shifter out of the car and wired but not correctly I suppose. The brake and gas pedal work, but I'm not getting anything from the shifter, doesn't go into reverse(unless I change the pos and neg from motor to revers relay) this is the schematic I followed. Plus I have a hard time seeing how only 2 wires going into the shifter can provide hi/low/reverse. Sorry took so long to reply, ive been just experimenting with it myself(although I have no idea what I'm doing, even though ive researched all that ipossibly can) I just dont understand this stuff and im in too deep to go back now.

I'm super glad you answered my call, i began to think no1 was on this forum anymore and I know I'm far behind but when this stuff was coming out I didnt have a kid lol
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Last edited by Shambosley on Mon Aug 07, 2017 1:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By Rob222
#146698
Does the fwd/rev relay click when you move the shifter to rev ?
If not your wiring problem is in the shifter to relay coil wiring.
If the relay clicks but the motors do not change direction the problem is in the relay contact wiring to the motors.

Can you make a temporary jumper and get the fwd/rev relay to open and close and see if the motors change direction.
That would confirm the relay contact part of the wiring to the motors is ok.

The diagram shows two switches in the shifter because that shifter originally had two fwd speeds (slow/fast) and rev.
For your use you will only use one of the switches (fwd/rev switch). Power is wired to the switch (normally open contact) and when the switch closes it just powers the fwd/rev relay coil.
#146701
Rob222 wrote:Does the fwd/rev relay click when you move the shifter to rev ?
If not your wiring problem is in the shifter to relay coil wiring.
If the relay clicks but the motors do not change direction the problem is in the relay contact wiring to the motors.


I think your right about it being the wiring in the shifter to the relay coil becuase nothing clicks when I move the shifter. Can you explain How the indicator connector is wired, does one wire go in to shifter and one go into 7 of brake relay and 8 of reverse relay? That's where I got the most confused is on the indicator connector?

I have no idea which male connectors on the shifter to wire the relay and the brake too I was just guessing until both relays clicked when I press the brake haha...
#146704
Thank you guys for the help. It was exactly where I was confused, the neg from the indicator connector to 7 of relay 1(brake) and to 8 if relay 2(reverse) and the pos tied into one of the brake wires. Now the reverse relay clicks when I switch shifter from reverse to forward and the motor changes directions. Brake cuts power to motor in either direction. I think ive got it, keep,in mind I have this all layed out on a desk(not in the car itself haha..) Questions while I have you guys here, since the controller takes 20.4v(according to Wesley) too send power, that means you can't run 18v with this setup if you wanted to? What is the diagram for with 3 relays, does that give you hi/low/reverse? And I skipped the 100ohm resister between the indicator and brake/shifter. I have a few extra 1ohm resistors, should I throw them in there wired in series or leave it without any? I have no accessories, not even an on/off switch, just have the lock connector closed with a wire out then back in. Any suggestions about any thing?

Thanks again for all the help. I had no idea what I was doing and now I kind of understand how it all works, much love!
#146731
So I bought a yk31c conroller just to try it out and I can't get the throttle to work. Wires on controller are red, black, and blue. Wires on hall-effect pedal is red, black, and white. I matched up red and red, black and black, and blue and white. Youd figure that's how it should be wires but Its not sending power to motors. Any ideas?
#147357
lexx0116 wrote:Is this alternative similar to CJB Turbo Timer 4 board concept where it will soft start at lower voltage for 2 seconds and then boost up full force?


CJB's Turbo Timer gives the parent control over the ride, what percentage of time it will be allowed to run full blast. This setup simply provides a two stage throttle. It's up the the child to push the pedal softly to start and then roll into full speed when appropriate.
#147390
toycrusher wrote:
lexx0116 wrote:Is this alternative similar to CJB Turbo Timer 4 board concept where it will soft start at lower voltage for 2 seconds and then boost up full force?


CJB's Turbo Timer gives the parent control over the ride, what percentage of time it will be allowed to run full blast. This setup simply provides a two stage throttle. It's up the the child to push the pedal softly to start and then roll into full speed when appropriate.


Do you have a wiring diagram for Dune Racer? I have the 40A circuit breaker here. The gas pedal I guess it will be replaced by the new throttle pedal correct? I am unsure about the shifter wiring at the moment for this setup.
#147396
lexx0116 wrote:
toycrusher wrote:
lexx0116 wrote:Is this alternative similar to CJB Turbo Timer 4 board concept where it will soft start at lower voltage for 2 seconds and then boost up full force?


CJB's Turbo Timer gives the parent control over the ride, what percentage of time it will be allowed to run full blast. This setup simply provides a two stage throttle. It's up the the child to push the pedal softly to start and then roll into full speed when appropriate.


Do you have a wiring diagram for Dune Racer? I have the 40A circuit breaker here. The gas pedal I guess it will be replaced by the new throttle pedal correct? I am unsure about the shifter wiring at the moment for this setup.


I've never owned a Dune Racer so can't say for sure, but most older PW rides are fairly standard. Power goes from battery to pedal, from pedal to twin DPDT switches in the shifter, and out to the motors. The relays replace the DPDT switch for Hi/low to make it automatic based on pedal position.
#147638
toycrusher wrote:This should help. The relay now looks like it's real-life counterpart :D
Capture.PNG



Just got the parts and want to try this method of ESC out on my Dune Racer. I just want to make sure that the blue wire is ground and red wire is positive from the battery connector correct? I normally have the fuse/circuit breaker connects to the positive so just want to make sure that for this diagram, the thermal sensor is connected with the ground wire instead of positive or the opposite? Also the 2 black wires going to the bottom 2 connectors of the pedal are both ground and does it matter which lead it needs to connect to or it doesn't matter for these 2.

Thanks
#147644
lexx0116 wrote:
toycrusher wrote:This should help. The relay now looks like it's real-life counterpart :D
Capture.PNG



Just got the parts and want to try this method of ESC out on my Dune Racer. I just want to make sure that the blue wire is ground and red wire is positive from the battery connector correct? I normally have the fuse/circuit breaker connects to the positive so just want to make sure that for this diagram, the thermal sensor is connected with the ground wire instead of positive or the opposite? Also the 2 black wires going to the bottom 2 connectors of the pedal are both ground and does it matter which lead it needs to connect to or it doesn't matter for these 2.

Thanks


To answer your question... yes, yes, and yes... :lol:
For some reason Peg likes to put the circuit breakers on the ground side. In electrical theory, electrons move from the ground side to the positive side so maybe that is why they do it... or maybe they just felt like it. It really doesn't matter on a plastic frame vehicle.
The 2 black wires connect to the relay and to ground. Direction doesn't matter, when the circuit is completed the relay flips.
#147648
In that case then I can retire the long wire connect to the pedal and replace it with the actual wire harness. And I assume if the black and red line from the picture where not labeled will be black
and red relatively then? One of the motor you have blue with red line and red with black lines so I assume the color don't matter there as long as the labels are right? and connect to the right ground/positive for the motor connection then?
#147662
lexx0116 wrote:In that case then I can retire the long wire connect to the pedal and replace it with the actual wire harness. And I assume if the black and red line from the picture where not labeled will be black
and red relatively then? One of the motor you have blue with red line and red with black lines so I assume the color don't matter there as long as the labels are right? and connect to the right ground/positive for the motor connection then?


Yes, your existing wire colors aren't really that important as long as power flows like it does in the diagram.
#147720
lexx0116 wrote:So I got the setup working. One question is the reverse speed, it behaves like forward meaning that the harder you push on the pedal the faster reverse will go. Is this an expected behavior?



Yes, it's not a very "smart" system. :lol:
#147858
@toycrushers

Is there a way to put a break reduction module in to reduce the hard stop when releasing the pedal? I have mine install right now using stock wire but not sure if it's possible on this one.
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