M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Electronic Scooter Controllers have become a popular addition to our vehicles. Ask specific questions about ESCs here!

***WARNING*** this section is for ADVANCED MODDERS. if you try anything in this section you NEED to expect minor issues with the build up to and including complete FAILURE of EVERYTHING in your freshly built BPRO.

Have fun ;-) :-)
I picked up a Razor E150 for real cheap and am hoping to use the parts for my conversion. It's going to be fun putting the motor (or two of them) in this thing. But my question is, I read that the E150 scooter needs to be moving before the motor will kick in. Is this true and will it still do that if I transfer the parts over to the Tough loader? (I'm starting to think the Dump truck would have been a better vehicle to 24v/Scooter motor convert. Has a lot more room to stuff batteries and other stuff.


Dump truck image is not of mine but for reference.

I'll be uplaoding pictures as the project moves along. ( I think I need a 3D Printer to make some parts!)
Also, Do you guys stick with the same 5-40 size screws to hold motors onto standard gear boxes (standard power wheels) or change to something easier to get? Oone of the motors on the Dump truck was missing its screws. Thanks!

Another question, I think the throttle on the Scooter is Hall effect, but it's a twist grip and only turns about a quarter of a inch, If I was to get a metal Pedal from the scooter place on here, would it be a simple plug and play with the scooter controller from the E150?
Last edited by realred2 on Sun Jul 12, 2015 12:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
Your skid steer simply needs a 12v battery and online fuse and it will be more fun than most kids can handle! :lol:

The E150 is simply on-off control with a super low amp output. Forget about using the controller.
thanks for the reply, although not what I had hoped to hear. I did put 12 volts in the dump truck and man does it fly! But I want to put rubber tires on the tough loader to go up some steep hills, and want to do a remote conversion with slow start and adjustable throttle. Will the E150 motor run on 12 volts?
I'm going to go with probably not on 12v. I bought two e150s with :twisted: :twisted: plans... but now I'm afraid I just wasted my money :(
The E150s seem to be push to start scooters. However, the motors should still work fine but the ESC must know somehow when the motor isn't already turning...
Last edited by sall on Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
Power output from the controller is so low, that the motor can't start spinning on its own. It needs the kick to start spinning. On 24v direct it starts fine.
Also, Do you guys stick with the same 5-40 size screws to hold motors onto standard gear boxes (standard power wheels) or change to something easier to get? Oone of the motors on the Dump truck was missing its screws. Thanks!

5-40 is a gun screw thread pitch; I've never seen a motor can use them. So older US made motors and a few imported ones use 4-40 or 6-32, but the standard these days for virtually all 540/550 size and quite a few 775s is m3x.50. Some 280 and 380 size motors use m2.5x.45, and some of the 775 size use m4x.70, but I haven't run across a small motor that uses SAE machine screws in a long time.
It ended up being a 3-30 screw, or atleast thats what fit. I suppose I could use the scooter control I have with the stock motors and get 4 wheel drive on the thing. I'll have to relay it out, but the stock motors could kick in untill the bigger scooter motor does, then free wheel...
So, Idea, I can run the stock setup from the scooter, with the 3mph start, by having the stock motors and system in the powerwheels run on 12 volts (or 24 volts in parallel), and the Scooter controller when sending power out to the motor switch a 2 position relay to the other side that runs to the scooter motor. (CAT will have stock motors and gearboxes on the rear (steering) tires, and the Scooter motor on the front (solid axel) wheels....
Maybe? Basically, the scooter system is always operating, and the stock power wheels system gets it up to speed before it kicks in? Otherwise I may just go with 3 scooter motors and a full on 24v esc conversion....
You might be over complicating things. Just get two super-6 3b gearboxes and put them up front. There is plenty of room though the end of the motor might come in to the leg room. I'm planning on using some Lil jeep motor covers for that on mine. Wire the four motors in parallel through a relay and your done
I want over complicated, makes me learn. I think we are just going to go 24v with a esc, already ordered rubber tires. I think I'm going to order the esc kit from a member on here, and find 2 more 24 volt motors. Or are you saying that 4 of the super-6 3b gearboxes will take 24 volts in parrallel on rubber tires?
Super six motors won't handle more than 12v or they will burn up. 3b gearboxes are very light duty boxes and will strip gears in a hurry with rubber tires, even at 6v.

Super 6 rides are very popular because you do nothing more than swap to a 12v battery and they will run 7mph which feels very fast in a vehicle with no suspension! :lol:
alright, then esc here we come... now to figure out how to interface the esc with a remote. I think I need a 4 channel remote so I will have forward and reverse, turning, bucket lift, and a extra channel to change from remote controlled to kid controlled....Time to have some fun. need to find some more scooter motors too.
Where would you mount the scooter motors? There's not much room for them or for the necessary gear reduction
I see room for motors without issue, one per wheel that turns, and one for the front two. I can't run the wheels directly off the motors? I know I'll have to keep the throttle trim down to nothing. But we will make it work. What size scooter motors do you guys use? I'm 24v and esc ing a 6 wheel dump truck too.Thanks.
Here's an example of a scooter motor setup viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18516

Will give you a rough idea of some of the things needed. I'm not discouraging you, I would LOVE to see it come to life! 8-)
You can't run the wheels directly off the motors because these small motors spin at thousands of RPM. The wheels on ride-toys need to spin at hundreds of RPM to keep the riding speeds to a safe 5 -7 MPH (faster if modified of course). Battery powered ride-on toys use gearboxes when stock, or some sort of chain/belt/sprockets reduction gearing if seriously modified, to reduce the motor RPM to a desired wheel RPM. If you tried to run the wheels directly off the end of the motors, you would need to run the motors real slow using "throttle trim" (low voltage) but these motors have no power running at the low rpm's. You defeat the whole point of going to 24v and the ride would have no power and probably not even move. The gearing multiplies the torque of the motor and turns all of the motor's high RPMs to lower RPMs at the wheels but with much more torque.
Last edited by Rob222 on Sat Mar 05, 2016 11:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
So, went with 2x32 amp controller, three 150w motors, two 2" 150lb linear actuators, one for steering, one for front bucket. Will be using a hall effect pedal and a fly sky remote and receiver. How is everyone doing steering with the linear actuators on remote? Just relays for one direction and back the other way? Or can you do regular steering? I.e. Tight and loose turning?

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