M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
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Electronic Scooter Controllers have become a popular addition to our vehicles. Ask specific questions about ESCs here!

***WARNING*** this section is for ADVANCED MODDERS. if you try anything in this section you NEED to expect minor issues with the build up to and including complete FAILURE of EVERYTHING in your freshly built BPRO.

Have fun ;-) :-)
With apologies to the F-150s and Mustangs and Gauchos...
This post is dedicated to the Power Wheels red-headed stepchild, the Arctic Cat.
It's also intended for first-time modders, so I hope you find the detailed information helpful.

We needed a new battery.
A very special thank you to Fisher Price for price-gouging. If Fisher Price set a reasonable price, this mod would never have happened.
3rd-party battery = baby step modification, so I looked into an 18V upgrade.
Fortunately, I found Wesley's 24V ESC kit and was sold on the variable throttle and other features.

Overall I'm very pleased with Wesley's kit and it is a great project for a first-time modder. It included all of the essential components and even some extra parts and nice things like an illuminated switch. Wesley also provides excellent support which makes all the difference. ESC mods may be considered advanced, but Wesley's kit enables a beginner to mod like a pro.

You must have a soldering iron and digital multimeter. If you are unfamiliar, you will be checking continuity using the 200-Ohm (Ω) setting. Check voltage using the 20 or 200 setting on DCV. The black probe goes to COM and the red probe goes to VΩmA.

About half of the work involved with my installation was carving or cutting plastic, thanks to the battery boxes. I used a reciprocating saw for long cuts and a utility knife for short cuts on thin plastic. Otherwise, I had to use a drill and Dremel.

Battery boxes:
Battery position has a huge affect on CG, so I relocated them to the rear and slightly lower.
The disadvantage to this location is that the seat and cargo must be unscrewed to remove or test the batteries. However with a Schumacher CR-2 float charger, this shouldn't be a huge issue. I used 14ga slotted right-angle plated steel cut to 9" and mounted with 1/4x3/4" stainless steel hex cap screws & stop nuts.
The foam sheet pads provide cushioning and stability. The black padding is 6mm thick and the red is 2mm w/adhesive backing - Creatology @$1/sheet from Michaels.
The velcro cinch strap is 2"x24" by Secure Cable Ties. I found that 2"x18" is too short when wrapped around the outside of the battery boxes.
Image Image

Accelerator pedal:
The plastic pedal in Welsey's kit is absolutely perfect for the Arctic Cat. Although the plastic pedal's movement feels a little "sticky," it's still decent and the plastic base is carvable. I installed the pedal in the floor trough so that the pedal almost reaches the floor at full throttle. Tricky but worth the effort. There is still enough room under the recessed pedal to allow wires to pass through.

Brake pedal:
I'm looking for a small plastic junction box that will cover it. If anyone can suggest one, please let me know.

This component is essential! Use it to keep the top speed down for new drivers.
As Wesley mentions in his video, put it in-line with the white/control wire from the accelerator pedal.
Use the middle and left pins as you are looking down at the knob. This will be a very difficult solder because the pins are so small and close together... so make it
your last one as you will need the practice.

Key-On switch:
Wesley includes both an actual key and an illuminated switch in his kit.
The illuminated switch has good spade connects and fit perfectly in the pre-cut OEM fake key hole.
I tried the illuminated switch in my install but ended up getting an illuminated "angel eye" latching button/switch instead.
Some notes about 5-pin switches... it can get confusing.
The pins are very small but you can still use some 0.110" quick disconnects instead of soldering... which I highly recommend in case you make a wiring mistake.
C: common, power in
NO: normally open, THIS & C is "The Switch"
NC: normally closed, don't use this (reverse operation)
+: LED power in
-: LED power out/ground
Again, the switch is C & NO.
The LED is on a separate circuit from the switch (+ & -).
To make the LED work, you will need to jump NO & + to send power to the LED circuit.
Splice the black power lock wire and connect to both NO and +.
You will also need to ground the LED separately... use the negative battery terminal.
For ground, I ended up using a piggy back disconnect on the brake relay #8 connection... it happens to be sideways so the piggy back disconnect fits.
Could also use the #8 connection from the reverse relay... but mine was too close to the motor.

Dual Voltmeters:
This was a pricey upgrade, but I am convinced it will help diagnose battery issues. Plus it looks cool and you can't put a price on cool. Well... actually you can and it's about $50.
I found a 2-pole angel eye switch on Amazon. It's one of only two 2NO/2NC (8-pin) angel eyes I could find, so here is the link:
There are other dual-pole angel eyes out there, but they tend to be 6-pin and have a 1NO+1NC contact configuration, so they won't work for dual voltmeters unless you want one off and one on.
I also opted for the large 0.56" LED voltmeters:
In addition, here are the links for the piggy back disconnects:
And the 22-18ga 0.110" disconnects needed for the tiny leads off the voltmeters:
The concept here is that I routed two separate circuits through one switch ("dual pole"). The piggy back disconnects allow me to tap directly off the batteries. Although the primary connection is solid, the upper/piggy backs are somewhat fragile, so I had to be careful when pushing the connect on. I also learned to be careful with the wires connected up to the battery terminals... a brief touch = short = melted wire casing on the thinnest wire.
I created a template and was able to use a razor blade to cut out the plastic for the voltmeters. Had to use a drill/Dremel for the button. Similar to the 5-pin single-pole LED switch, I had to jump/splice the output (NO) from one side/pole/battery to the LED + (not labeled on this switch). LED - was sent to virtual ground, meaning negative battery via the piggybacked brake relay #8 connection. And again, I ignored the NC contacts because I didn't want the voltmeters to turn off when the switch was closed.
The wires coming off the voltmeters is 20ga, but I still had to double it up in the 18-22ga 0.110" disconnects. The electrical tape on the left voltmeter's negative wire is covering up the melted casing from that short. Glad none of the components were fried.
17 connections/solders/splices for this, but who's counting.

Soldering is a must if you plan to drive. :)
I think around 40 connections are required for this install- I made some more for the angel eye switch.
In addition to Wesley's advice to solder all connections, I would suggest using flux. Flux prevents oxidization and also "pulls" the solder deeper into the wires and blade connector creating a stronger bond.

Our yard is fairly bumpy, so during our first outing, a wire came loose. It happened to be the negative battery from the controller... so don't just check the connections and solders you made; check everything!
Be sure to use electrical tape on any connections that are spliced or doubled-up in a scooter connector. Bumps in the field can stretch your wire sheathing or heat shrink and allow frayed wires to brush each other.
For some reason my Schumacher CR2 float charger caused one of my batteries to boil. Fortunately, I caught it right away and will have to watch the next time I charge.

I bought some Sunlite 12.5" BMX tires for traction to the rear wheels.
After reading on the MPW forum that this may stress the gearbox, I'm holding off for now.

-Push seat back for a few inches extra leg room
-Install brake pedal cover
-775's when/if stock motors burn out
Last edited by Fraz on Sat Aug 06, 2016 7:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Absolutely top notch!
Thanks to all for the compliments. Hope the new modders can find some good info from my learning curve, so I updated to include the dual voltmeters.
I'm not a big fan of carving plastic, but my next mod will be to push the seat back a couple inches.

So far so good on the stock motors and gearboxes. This ESC setup is particularly good at accel/decel, MUCH better than the stock setup where it jerks on and off. I'm guessing it will extend the gearbox life. The motors get warm but we haven't burned them out yet.
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