M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Electronic Scooter Controllers have become a popular addition to our vehicles. Ask specific questions about ESCs here!

***WARNING*** this section is for ADVANCED MODDERS. if you try anything in this section you NEED to expect minor issues with the build up to and including complete FAILURE of EVERYTHING in your freshly built BPRO.

Have fun ;-) :-)
User avatar
By RyanG
Hi all! First post. Thanks for all the help already.
I got an ESC (Item # SPD-241000D) from, along with a Power Contactor (Item # RLY-24150) and a basic on/off switch. had I known about EastCoastPowerUp I would have purchased a kit, and everything would have been easy, but I guess I'm a glutton for punishment. I'm trying to use TreeBeme's instructions (viewtopic.php?f=46&t=2819) as a guide, but I am not sure the best course of action at this point. My ESC has two negative wires and a positive, along with the connector to a Hall Effect throttle pedal. Should I skip the relays, and run the 24V ESC through the shifter, or should I put a resistor into the system and run a lower voltage through the shifter to control a set of relays? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This is on a 2014 Jeep Hurricane with stage 3 motors from MLToys, 24V power supply, and a brake reduction module.

User avatar
By RyanG
Well... With some help of a few friends and East Coast PowerUp, I'm making progress. Thought I would post my progress for anyone else following in my footsteps. Here is my modified plans.
Modified wireing Diagram
DYIEE2.jpg (390.83 KiB) Viewed 977 times
I got my equipment from and

In hindsight it may have been easier just to get a full kit from ECP, but I didn't find out about them till after I purchased non-refundable parts from ESP... That being said, according to ECP, their design doesn't give you High/Low/Reverse, which I like for my two younger kids, since I can put the lock screw back in the Jeep Hurricane, and keep it from going into High. The bad part about this route was that I had to figure out how to make it work instead of a plug and play kit, and this route also is not very well tested, so time will tell if I made a good decision.

got a 1000W ESC with two negative and one positive power wires along with the Hall Effect throttle connector and pedal
10 gauge wire throughout
24V battery
a relay controlled power switch for the ESC
an 18-50V --> 12V converter
three DPDT relays.
a 40A breaker
Power Strip
a 2014 Jeep Hurricane PW
two 775 motors from MLToys
Good amount of solder and flux
A lot of patience
User avatar
By RyanG
I'll add that the shifter is oriented in the diagram so that the reverse switch is the top switch, and the High/Low switch is the bottom switch. Also, If you are new to relays, you have "NO" and "NC" contacts as well as "com" and "coil". If you get clear relays from ECP, you can see which is which. NO means Normally OPEN, and NC means Normal CLOSED. Com is common, and Coil is powering the ElectroMagnet inside that directs the flow of electricity.

You may have to switch the polarity at the motor once you test it all out to make sure both wheels are turning the same direction.
User avatar
By Hammer-fm
There's another way to do "slow vs fast". Instead of the 3rd ("slow" vs "Fast") relay which switches the motors between series and parallel, you could reduce the throttle output when you're in 1st or reverse. Put a resistor between the throttle output and the ESC. Tap the ESC input and wire it to the switch (the 'center' or select of the switch). Wire a resistor from one pole of the switch (the one that is selected when you're in 1st/reverse) to ground (ESC negative) -- creating a selectable resistor divider. When you are in 2nd gear the switch is not selecting the resistor and the throttle output is "full" value, and when you are in 1st/reverse, a resistor divider is created which makes it so that the throttle output voltage is lower (eg. 0-3V instead of 0-5V).

This allows you to always run the motors in parallel -- no one-wheel drive.

You can use something like a 2.2k resistor from throttle to ESC and a 3.3k at the shifter -- for a 0-5V hall-effect sensor this would reduce it to 0-3V ( it will be "3.3 / (2.2 + 3.3) * 5V"). You can use a potentiometer in place of either one (though the shifter-one is better) so that you can change the "slow" gear maximum position.

The throttle will still be proportional -- just think of it as 50% throttle in 1st gear acts like 30% in 2nd gear.

Neither of my ESC setups retain the series/parallel motor wiring -- they limit the throttle output instead.
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