Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Electronic Scooter Controllers have become a popular addition to our vehicles. Ask specific questions about ESCs here!

***WARNING*** this section is for ADVANCED MODDERS. if you try anything in this section you NEED to expect minor issues with the build up to and including complete FAILURE of EVERYTHING in your freshly built BPRO.

Have fun ;-) :-)
#119660
Correct, no ESC. Just the soft start. It will go forward, but when shifter put in reverse, the thermo protector engages and the motor doesn't turn. It is a Cadillac Escalade with 24 volts. The shifter has a high/low and reverse, what wires to I connect for the reverse to work?
Last edited by crh on Thu May 01, 2014 4:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.
#119663
Are you using the peg perego 24v gas pedal?
#119665
Most likely there is a wire crossed on the relay that is causing a short. Let me see if I can figure it out.
#119684
crh wrote:Correct, no ESC. Just the soft start. It will go forward, but when shifter put in reverse, the thermo protector engages and the motor doesn't turn. It is a Cadillac Escalade with 24 volts. The shifter has a high/low and reverse, what wires to I connect for the reverse to work?


Ensure that all your wiring on the switch is correct and that it is connected to ONLY one of the two switches in your shifter box. Which one you connect to really doesn't matter. I'm quite certain that you have a wire mixed up on the shift switch so that when you change positions, it is connecting + to - and creating a dead short which is tripping your breaker.
#120384
It didn't work with repositioning wires in shifter, I don't know anything about resistors but I read all positive should be on 1 side and all negative on the other? Also, why does the diagram I am using have the 2 positive wires connecting to just the resistor and nothing else?
#120391
I think we need to start over. Please list as specifically as possible the mods you have done so far. There are no resistors in the diagram in question so I think you may be referring to relays. Depending on what you are trying to accomplish they are typically necessary.
#120904
Is it a 3 wire Hall effect pedal or a 5 wire peg perego pedal?
#121793
A continuation of the series of bootlegged and modded JParthum diagrams... :?

This gives you automatic low speed when in reverse only, and hi-speed forwards only. Still variable pedal so kid has ultimate control in forwards. 8-)

STATIC -s -auto reverse.jpg
#121825
toycrusher wrote:A continuation of the series of bootlegged and modded JParthum diagrams... :?

This gives you automatic low speed when in reverse only, and hi-speed forwards only. Still variable pedal so kid has ultimate control in forwards. 8-)

STATIC -s -auto reverse.jpg


Hello, newbie here, thank you so much for posting this.

I just accumulated all the parts to make the ESC conversion. It's a hot wheels jeep wrangler, 12V with Hi/Lo. It's actually brand new, a birthday gift from a family friend to my kids. I have taken it into my own hands to improve their experience. LOL.

Anyways... it looks like this is the diagram I should follow. A couple questions. Thanks much in advance!

1) What gague wires should I use? I am a bit confused as to where is the high current and where is the low current, and also which part is 24V vs. 12V.
2) I don't need Hi-Lo in forward because the controller does the job in varying speed, correct? Only two wires into the F/R selector, basically just reverse polarity?
3) For a speed governor, I should wire the positive in line with the positive in hall effect pedal, and splice in the negative?
4) If I want a remote kill switch, I am basically turning the brakes on and off? Here's a remote kill switch I found on amazon and there are 4 leads: 12V, 12V ground, 12V switched, 12V switched ground. So I should wire 12V to wire going into brake pedal, 12V switched to wire going out of brake pedal, and both grounds to the wire that's connected to RV2-?

#121863
Heynow. I used 10 or 12 GA wire on high load connections. The high load wires are the connections between the batteries to the controller, then between the controllers and motors- basically the path between the batteries and motors.
I agree with your Hi/Lo comment completely and never have Hi/Lo (we actually use the middle shifter position as neutral which we use when getting in or out of the ride or when standing in front of the ride on for safety).
All connections on the controller are 24v! High load wires are thicker than low load wires. To run the relays off the 24v "indicator" connection, use resistors as per the diagrams.
I think I understand your reverse question - Yes 2 load wires in, 2 load wires out but the connections between the relay poles do the magic.
I have had different results with different controllers and different potentiometers and to be honest I do not know why. I have read about 3 variations here where guys say one way works but others say another way works and I have experienced this variation myself. I know what parts you have since you bought an ESC kit from me and myself and others have gotten the governor to work by wiring the pot inline on the blue/white control wire using the center and an outside pole on the pot. This does not agree with some of the diagrams posted here recently but is the classic Bonner Governor. Please let us know how this works out.
Cant speak on the kill switch I've never used one.
#121960
toycrusher wrote:A continuation of the series of bootlegged and modded JParthum diagrams... :?

This gives you automatic low speed when in reverse only, and hi-speed forwards only. Still variable pedal so kid has ultimate control in forwards. 8-)

STATIC -s -auto reverse.jpg


So I followed this diagram and it worked mostly... It does 24V, the hall effect throttle and brakes work. However, my reverse gear is now forward, and the low gear is the same as high gear instead of neutral. Any ideas?

Also, how do I wire in cooling fans? Buy 24V PC cooling fans and wire them with the headlights / taillights circuit? I think that's a low current circuit...
Last edited by Galun on Sun Jun 15, 2014 11:42 pm, edited 3 times in total.
#121964
You will need to play with your shift wiring. Move the leads around on the box until you find the position that gives you forward when in the appropriate handle position. Not all boxes are the same but it won't take long to figure out.

For your fans, just wire two 12v fans in series from your light circuit and your Ok ;)
#121967
Heynow. There are a couple options to fix reverse, you could either move the steering wheel and seat to face the other direction or you can reverse the motor leads on the COM poles on the reverse relay.

Also something to keep in mind with the fans- the motors pull in air from one side and blow out from the other. It is important that the fans do not blow against the flow or air in the motors since they will cancel each other out and without airflow you can have a motor failure within 2 minutes. Ask me how I know this.
#122548
toycrusher wrote:And this is the same diagram without the high/low feature.

STATIC-s.png


Just curious any reason why flyback diodes aren't being used across the relay coils? Protect switches/controller?
#122586
Controllers don't seem to be particularly sensitive to the spikes, or well calibrated in general... :lol:
#123076
I will likely add some 1n4007 diodes across the coil just for safety sake. Interesting you say that about calibration though. Wonder if you have one controller driving each wheel if they will vary enough to cause an issue.

Another question is how much current can the pilot light source? I cannot seem to find that spec anywhere. I know no one has reported issues with wiring LEDs and such via this as well the relay coils. Just curious.

I have also wired my setup a bit differently. Instead of switching the relays with a high, I have it wired so the reverse switch and brakes ground the relays.
#123083
You've got me on ALL those questions! :? :lol:
#123533
toycrusher wrote:You've got me on ALL those questions! :? :lol:


Haha no problem. I will just use the pilot light out to trigger a relay. I doubt it will ever be an issue but never know what I will decide to throw at this thing!
#123651
... me again haha.

What about a 0.30 ohm 25W+(I also see 50 and 100W) resistor for the brake circuit instead of the 3 parallel 1 ohm 10W? Keep it a bit cleaner. Or other suggestions?
Last edited by sall on Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:01 pm, edited 2 times in total.
#123671
Unless your using rubber tires, I would skip the brake resistor all together. Most plastic tires don't have much grip so when you hit the brakes the tires lock and the vehicle skids, not much stress on the gear boxes. With rubber wheels it would be a whole different story and the softer braking would be necessary to save the gears. My .02 ;)
#130514
Hello all, I am new to the site (obviously with my low post numbers lol)!!! Anyways, I recently purchased an ESC conversion for the older style Mustang (i think J4390??, It looks like the 2005 Mustang). So I have found a million kazillion wiring diagrams, but nothing that seemed to fit exactly what I was going for. Has anyone been able to have park, drive, and reverse with the ESC kits? Where park fully engages the brakes. I'm starting to go a little crazy with my ohmmeter trying to figure out a good way to accomplish this. Thanks in advance :D
#130538
MuscleStangGT05 wrote:Hello all, I am new to the site (obviously with my low post numbers lol)!!! Anyways, I recently purchased an ESC conversion for the older style Mustang (i think J4390??, It looks like the 2005 Mustang). So I have found a million kazillion wiring diagrams, but nothing that seemed to fit exactly what I was going for. Has anyone been able to have park, drive, and reverse with the ESC kits? Where park fully engages the brakes. I'm starting to go a little crazy with my ohmmeter trying to figure out a good way to accomplish this. Thanks in advance :D


I'll make you one tomorrow if someone else doesn't do it first... :)
#130544
Use a variation of this diagram. All that's really changing is the connections on the brake relay and the brake pedal. Key off, the brakes are applied. Key on, and the brakes are released. Push the brake pedal, the circuit is broken, and the brakes are applied.

Superpower Rewire.png
#130557
Thanks toycrusher. I ended up figuring it out, and it turns out to be exactly as you made =D
Reading through the forums, you are very knowledgable, so I guess I know for sure this will work. All I have left to do is hook up the batteries.....been kind of sick and taking a break since Wednesday. The diagram I had been using before was super fuzzy so I kind of had to remake it to what made sense, and luckily that's how you drew it up. I'd start a new thread to post progress, but this is going to be a long process (son is only 1 HAHAHAHA, getting an early start), so I'm not in a hurry to get it done. Still am working on some other custom body work and paint and the fun stuff of such =D
#130832
kirkjay wrote:anyone has a real pic of what your electrical set up looks like...especially ones with resistor in it.... I'm not that an expert in electronics...


WesleyB has a great video in the "for sale" section explaining it all clearly. Turns a noob into a :ugeek: in a matter of minutes... :lol: 8-)
#131226
So I have used one of the diagrams at the top of this thread, successfully with my two year old for a year now. He turns three in a month, but has had the hang of it since last year.

Problem is, there isn't enough brake with the brake pedal. My yard has a lot of hills, so if he is going down the hill at speed, the brakes don't do much.

Can you add, or eliminate, resistors or something on that circuit, to increase the braking power? Again, I have it wired like the first schematic. The brakes aren't as powerful as compared to a stock powerwheels when you let of the throttle.
#131227
toycrusher wrote:Unless your using rubber tires, I would skip the brake resistor all together. Most plastic tires don't have much grip so when you hit the brakes the tires lock and the vehicle skids, not much stress on the gear boxes. With rubber wheels it would be a whole different story and the softer braking would be necessary to save the gears. My .02 ;)


Is this my answer right here, take out a resistor or two?
#131241
skinnyR1 wrote:
toycrusher wrote:Unless your using rubber tires, I would skip the brake resistor all together. Most plastic tires don't have much grip so when you hit the brakes the tires lock and the vehicle skids, not much stress on the gear boxes. With rubber wheels it would be a whole different story and the softer braking would be necessary to save the gears. My .02 ;)


Is this my answer right here, take out a resistor or two?


Yup, replace the brake resistor on the relay with just a piece of wire and your good to go with firm brake lockup ;)
#131248
skinnyR1 wrote:Cool thanks. I have the three resistors wired in parallel there, I'll take out one at a time to see what improved braking is provided, before I jump to just the straight wire.

Thanks!


Each one you remove actually softens the braking further. You could add a 4th for more braking power, but in general, with plastic wheels, just a straight jumper is all you need.
#133897
Toycrusher, Thank you for all of these post. I finished my sons power wheel last night and it worked flawlessly the first time I turned the key. I used your variation with the reverse beeper/reverse lights, headlight, and tail/stop lights. I was shocked that it worked without any issues! The only issue I have is it seems to drain the batteries really fast. You barely get 20 minutes of ride time and the batteries were new a year ago. I'm using two standard grey power wheel batteries wired in series with the Titan 775 motors. Any recommendations for what I can be doing differently? Are these the fastest motors and/or best motors to use?
#133921
Quaid wrote:Toycrusher, Thank you for all of these post. I finished my sons power wheel last night and it worked flawlessly the first time I turned the key. I used your variation with the reverse beeper/reverse lights, headlight, and tail/stop lights. I was shocked that it worked without any issues! The only issue I have is it seems to drain the batteries really fast. You barely get 20 minutes of ride time and the batteries were new a year ago. I'm using two standard grey power wheel batteries wired in series with the Titan 775 motors. Any recommendations for what I can be doing differently? Are these the fastest motors and/or best motors to use?


Thanks but I didn't design the circuit, I just made variations of it to make it easier for different people. I can't say what is the best motor, everyone has their own opinions, but I would highly recommend replacing the factory batteries with aftermarket SLA batteries
Last edited by toycrusher on Tue Jul 21, 2015 12:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#134530
I just got my controller and my relays and am doing some wiring (waiting on my pedal).. I got a YK31C but I believe the diagram is the same for it.. Regarding the (3) 1 ohm resistors for the brake..I have some 0.68 Ohm 5% 10W Watt Resistors on hand that I figure I can use (4) of them (which would add up to 2.72 Ohm) or do I need to get the exact 1 ohm ones or I thought I saw some people not even use them?

Please advise.

Thanks!!
#134531
You should be fine with two or three of those. Adding resistors in parallel reduces the ohms, not increase them. Three 1 ohm resistors gives you about .33 ohm total resistance. The closer to zero ohms you get, the harder the braking is
#134580
toycrusher wrote:You should be fine with two or three of those. Adding resistors in parallel reduces the ohms, not increase them. Three 1 ohm resistors gives you about .33 ohm total resistance. The closer to zero ohms you get, the harder the braking is


Thanks a lot!!

Another question.. I planned on installing my YK31C (500W) into a Gaucho Grande with stock motors/gears.. Will this controller work OK with this setup?

Thanks again.
#134581
tbird2340 wrote:
toycrusher wrote:You should be fine with two or three of those. Adding resistors in parallel reduces the ohms, not increase them. Three 1 ohm resistors gives you about .33 ohm total resistance. The closer to zero ohms you get, the harder the braking is


Thanks a lot!!

Another question.. I planned on installing my YK31C (500W) into a Gaucho Grande with stock motors/gears.. Will this controller work OK with this setup?

Thanks again.


It's worked just fine for most people ;)
#135882
Has anyone actually tried using the YK31C brake controls? The early failures were with the LBD14, correct? Do they have the same internals?
Last edited by sall on Mon Oct 19, 2015 3:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#135911
sall wrote:Has anyone actually tried using the YK31C brake controls? The early failures were with the LBD14, correct? Do they have the same internals?

I have not tried to use the brake function on the YK31C and do not know anyone who has but I will say that the advantage of using a relay and not the controller for braking is that you can fine tune the braking force by changing the resistors but more importantly it is always safer to rely on a relay for braking since the relay stands between the controller and motors.
#135989
Have a question regarding an ESC issue / troubleshooting.. I used the diagram below and it worked for months until this issue.. If I bypass the relays completely and just plug the motor wires from the controller to the powerwheels it works fine..

I just can't figure out why it's not working going through the relays all of a sudden..

From the controller the motor wires go to pins 2 and 1 of relay A.. Those pins are connected to pins 5 and 6 when not energized.. Then pins 5 and 6 go to pins 1 and 2 of relay B. Those pins again are connected to 5 and 6 and then out to the actual motors..

Here's the troubleshooting I have done..

I get the motor wires directly from the controller and probe them while pressing the pedal.. Get 24V..
I then attach the motor wires to relay A pins 2 and 1.. I probe pins 5 and 6 of relay A while pressing the pedal.. Get 24V..
I then attach the jumper wires to pins 5 and 6 of relay A and probe the other end of these wires while pressing the pedal.. Get 24V..
I then attach the other end of these jumper wires (confirmed working) to pins 1 and 2 of relay B. I probe pins 5 and 6 of relay B.. Get 24V..
I then attach the wires from the motors to pins 5 and 6 of relay B.. Hit the pedal, nothing.. No movement..
Now, I have proven that the relays are good.. I can get voltage all they through, both relays. 24V.. I have proven that the motors and the controller themselves are good as if I bypass the relays completely the power wheels works!!

What the heck??

Image
#135991
If the circuit works going in to the relays, but not out... Then it's the relays. Possibly high resistance internally
#135993
tbird2340 wrote:
toycrusher wrote:If the circuit works going in to the relays, but not out... Then it's the relays. Possibly high resistance internally


So they need replaced? Man, these 20AMPs were $12 a pop! :evil:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/12VDC-30A-DPDT- ... C-s3GLPMxA

$7 shipped 8-)
#135996
Is there an adjustment screw on top of the relay? If so loosen it, move the screw and retighten then check continuity. If that doesnt work pop open the relay case and check the internals. If you need the relay faster than 2 weeks from now I have them on hand, send me a PM if you are interested.
  • 1
  • 4
  • 5
  • 6
  • 7
  • 8
Yk19f on a pulse motorbike

Reverse your test leads red to where your black wa[…]

I just bought a E1-500 and he rode it for the firs[…]

That 12v motor is rated for around 175w. So at 36[…]

Not familiar with what you have there, but it's my[…]

HobbyMasters