M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Electronic Scooter Controllers have become a popular addition to our vehicles. Ask specific questions about ESCs here!

***WARNING*** this section is for ADVANCED MODDERS. if you try anything in this section you NEED to expect minor issues with the build up to and including complete FAILURE of EVERYTHING in your freshly built BPRO.

Have fun ;-) :-)
I recently picked up a Honda Minimoto Go Kart on Craigslist for $50 with working 36V charger. I impatiently tore it apart when I got it home so I don't have any "before" pictures. The 36V battery was bad. Connected the Go Kart to 3 12V batteries in series and nothing. Troubleshooting found the ON/OFF switch on the steering wheel was not making contact. Shorted the connections with same results. Took apart the hall effect foot pedal and found corrosion on the magnet and sensor leads (sorry no pictures). Took it apart and cleaned it but same results. Finally came to the conclusion that the controller was dead! :evil: Below is the picture of the controller installed in the Go Kart.
My plan is to replace the existing controller with this one from Currie Technologies
This is the same controller in my Schwinn Stealth 1000. This replacement will require modifying the wire harness connectors on the Go Kart but future controller replacement will be easy. Reverse will be accomplish using a Power Wheels switch. :D
Last edited by DennisDaMenace on Sun Jun 12, 2011 5:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Below is the existing controller (Model # DY-36-500-03B) which is no longer available.
C1 = Motor
C2 = Battery
C3 = ON/OFF switch on steering wheel
C4 = Hall Effect Throttle
C5 = Charger (I removed the heat shrink tubing to expose the diode)
C6 = Training Mode Switch (blue/black), Brake (white/black), FWD/REV switch (orange/black)
C7 = Beeper
What's the lowdown on these carts? I found one here locally and it's got me curious. What kind of performance and reliability do they have in the stock condition? Thanks in advance.
From what I read, the controller and the hall-effect throttle pedal are the weakest link with these Go Karts. The controller overheats and fails. There is no exact replacement for the controller so I decided to start this thread to help fellow members. :D The hall-effect throttle can be easily repaired (IMHO).

I know of at least two members that have more than one of these Go Karts in their stable: jfoust (2) and Racer X (4).


Below are pictures of the Go Kart without the plastics to show you the construction. The motor (36V, 500W) powers the right wheel only and the disc brake stops the right wheel only. The left wheel "free wheels".
I decided to take a picture of the cleaned pedal throttle assembly. Pretty simple design consisting of the magnet attached to the pedal, hall-effect senor soldered to a circuit board and the three wires (red, black and white) soldered to the circuit board. The circuit board just has wire traces to connect the three wires to the three terminals of the sensor.
Rust was on the magnet and on the leads of the sensor. I used a small brush with brass bristles to remove the rust. Rust was on the areas of the magnet and lead that does not have the shiny coating. I also adjusted the sensor such that it was touching the magnet.

Based on the connections of the wires to the sensor, the wire functions are as follows:

RED = +4.3V Source
BLACK = Negative Source
WHITE = Signal

I will confirm this when I hook it up to the controller.
Being the impatient person that I am, I decided to use a 24V controller (25A Max Output Current) that I had in my spare parts bins to get the Go Kart rolling. I did not have any spare 36V controller. It has the basic connections: battery, motor, throttle and brake. I also used the wire harness from the 24V scooter since it had the 40A in-line fuse and a ON/OFF switch.
Last edited by DennisDaMenace on Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hooked up the throttle to the 24V Currie scooter controller and verified the wire functions are as follows:

RED = +4.3V Source
BLACK = Negative Source
WHITE = Signal

Next step was to remove the existing brake wiring from the 6-pin connector and wire it to the 2-pin modular connector from TNC Scooters (
Changed the pins from male contacts to female contacts since the brake contacts on the controller are male. I always crimp and solder my connections:
Last edited by DennisDaMenace on Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
For batteries, I used an APC RBC7 24V battery pack (2-12V 17Ah). The footprint fit perfectly on the the Go Kart's battery tray. To connect the battery to the controller's SAE (aka "S") connector, I fabricated an Anderson SB50-to-SAE adapter. The adapter was connected to the scooter wire harness to take advantage of the ON/OFF switch, battery charger connection and more importantly, the 40A fuse. Below is the temporary setup:
I had my oldest son (5'-7", 160lbs) take a few test run around our cul-de-sac with the GPS. I encouraged him to depress the throttle all the way to get a maximum speed reading.

RESULTS with 24V controller and 24V power source = 9.6 mph!

Next test will be with 36V power source :twisted:
Hey DennisDaMenance,

When I first got your PM about this thread I looked at it from work and for some reason I sometimes do not get the pictures that are posted while I am there. I just now checked your thread out from home and saw the picture which goes with the above layout. THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED!!!!!!

My control has C6 and C7 combined into one connector, but I am pretty sure I can figure that out. Thanks!!!!!!

Racer X
Racer X,

I try to provide as much detail as I can to help you and other members on this awesome forum. Just let me know if you need more information. It appears that you have the controller with the 9-pin connector vice the typical 6-pin connector. Hopefully the wire colors are the same then you can decode the function.

BTW, I host my photos on Photobucket and your IT department at work may be blocking access to the site preventing you from seeing the photos.

Well I added another 12V 17Ah battery to the temporary setup to get 36V to the controller.
I had my oldest son do a few laps to see if the controller would overheat or blow the 40A fuse. After about 5 minutes of run time with the 36V setup, the controller was warm but not hot. The 40A fuse did not blow either.

RESULTS with 24V controller and 36V power source = 13.0 mph!

The advertised maximum speed for the Go Kart with the original controller is approximately 18 mph.

With the test results, I may be able to keep the TRAINING MODE function of the Go Kart by using the 24V controller and switching from 36V or 24V.

NORMAL MODE: 13.0 mph with 36V power source
TRAINING MODE: 9.6 mph with 24V power source

Next task is to wire in the REVERSE function using a Power Wheels switch.
Dennis, quick question. I have a currie controller that was from a schwinn s500, I thought (and I could be wrong) that I read that it had overvolt protection as well as LVC. Now the pw its in right now is being worked on and I never tested it when it was running but could this be true? If I am able to overvolt the controller I understand I will have a rpm increase, but will it have more pulling power in the lower rpm range? Thanks

EDIT: after looking more I see alot of people overvolting currie controllers, so I guess I'm just asking about mid range power
Last edited by bricklayer99 on Fri Jun 17, 2011 5:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
bricklayer99 wrote: I'm just asking about mid range power
Are you are asking if the controller can provide enough power at mid-throttle position to climb an incline? If yes, I can test another controller that I removed from an eZip 400 (XK-022B).

I installed the controller in the Go Kart to confirm it can be overvolted.
Overvolting will increase the maximum output voltage of the controller. The scooter controller is a DC pulse width modulator (PWM) speed controller. A PWM circuit works by making a square wave with a variable ON-to-OFF ratio. The average ON time of the square wave may be varied from 0 to 100 percent and is controlled by the throttle. The 0 to 100 percent ON time correlates to an output voltage of 0 to 100 percent of controller input voltage.

If the input voltage of the controller is 24V, then the output voltage range will be 0 to 24V. Increasing the input voltage to 36V will result in an output voltage range of 0 to 36V and subsequently increasing the maximum rpm of the motor (top speed). The only limitation will be the maximum output current of the controller.
Last edited by DennisDaMenace on Sat Jun 18, 2011 5:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
Jeffreykdc wrote:not to hijack this thread but what is one of these karts worth, I found this on craigs
Not $300 but it all depends on how badly you want one. There is a limited supply since they are no longer in production and there seems to be a high demand. The battery is most likely bad if it was not charged on a regular basis.
Jeffreykdc wrote:not to hijack this thread but what is one of these karts worth, I found this on craigs


As usual your answer is "it depends". I know I will pay up to $150 for a decent Gaucho Grande, but other members won't go over $50 because they see more at that price range in their area, while they are very scarce by me. With that said $300 is the max I would pay and for that it had better be in like new shape. In fact I passed on one that was in like new shape for that same price, but I already have a couple. For me a jump on it price is $150 or less. I will still check one out for $200 but I will try to talk a seller down from $250.

They are discontinued and are drying up fast so If you never see them and that one is in good shape I would consider it (make them an offer of $250 or something).

The Go kart itself is amazing (if you have a paved location to ride it on). Our favorite BPRO, with a Gaucho, our number two, being a distant second (no knock on the Gaucho, just representive of the difference between the two).

Racer X
Last edited by Racer X on Thu Jun 30, 2011 11:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
Change in plans! I'm going to try to keep it as close to stock as possible so I can flip the Go Kart in the future for more $$$. I just ordered the 36V controller with reverse from TNC Scooters (

The controller will allow the ON/OFF and FWD/REV switches on the steering wheel to be functional. As for the TRAINING MODE function, I'll add a resistor (value to be determined) in line with the SIGNAL (white) wire from the hall-effect pedal throttle to lower the top speed. With the TRAINING MODE switch set to NORMAL(shorted), the switch will short the resistor effectively eliminating the resistor from the signal wire. With the TRAINING MODE switch set to TRAINING (open), the resistor will lower the maximum signal voltage to the controller thus lowering the top speed.

More to follow ...
I was able to add a 1Kohm resistor inline with the signal wire from the pedal throttle to limit the maximum duty cycle of the PWM thereby limiting the max speed of the Go Kart to about 2/3 top speed. The TRAINING MODE switch would be hooked up in parallel with the 1Kohm resistor to short the resistor in NORMAL mode (effectively reducing the resistance of the signal wire to zero ohms). But when I hooked up the TRAINING MODE switch to the resistor and set the switch to NORMAL (closed), I got sporatic rpm on the motor. I then realized I could not get zero ohms across the resistor with the switch closed due to contact resistance in the switch. :evil: This setback basically elimintes the Training Mode function of the Go Kart.

So with the current setup that I have with the YK48-3 controller, I only loose the following functionality from the original controller:

1) Training Mode
2) Low voltage buzzer

But I do gain the following functionality:

1) Brake Lights
2) Head Lights

I'll post pictures of the final setup along with the pinout connections between the Go Kart and YK48-3 controller.
YK48-3 Controller from TNC Scooters:
YK48-3 Controller.jpg
YK48-3 Controller.jpg (443.68 KiB) Viewed 27694 times
Following is the wire connections between the Go Kart wire harnesses and the YK48-3 Controller:
Wiring.jpg (178.2 KiB) Viewed 27694 times
The top speed of the Go Kart remains 13mph :( and this is due to the 30 amps maximum output current of the controller.
DennisDaMenace wrote:The top speed of the Go Kart remains 13mph :( and this is due to the 30 amps maximum output current of the controller.
I have to ask (excuse my ignorance, but this has been on my mind for a while :oops: ), does the controller limit Amperage output, or input - IE: does it just 'shut down' if the current exceeds 30A, or does it lower Voltage (to whatever extent possible) in order to (attempt to) maintain the same Wattage? :?

I've read several posts stating that over-Volting a controller (~50%) has been successful, but I've never seen specific readings that clarified whether the Amperage exceeded the controller's native Amperage at it's native Voltage or not. :|

I know this may seem like a pointless question, as it's not very relevant to motor Wattage :? , but the reason I'm curious, is that would this would have a fairly significant effect on other low current components connected to the controller. :)
If I were you I would have kicked it up a notch and got a 48 volt controller
Great Project !

I was thinking about going to use 2 of these motors on a Gaucho.
But now I've seen the actual size, I'm a little shocked. :o

What front and rear sprockets are you running to get this speed ?
And how high are the wheels on this kart ?

Sorry to dig up an old thread...

I just picked up one of these Minimoto karts. The original battery is dead, so I tried wiring up a Peg Perego 24v and 12v to it and it won't move. I hear the controller click when I switch it on, but that is not a good indicator of whether or not the controller is bad, right?

What is the best replacement controller for these? I'd like to keep reverse if possible, but it sounds like the 30A YK48-3 will limit the speed? I think I read somewhere the OEM one is 55A.
Last edited by mobil1 on Fri Jun 22, 2012 9:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I too am sorry to bring up an 'older' thread.
But I just picked up 2 of these for $60!! No batteries (no loss there). But I don't have a total of 36v to test these babies yet. Although I did hook up a 12v direct to the motors of both and both spin!! :D :D

I am researching this stuff and trying to learn as much as possible. But I am really looking for some assistance on the best way to test the rest of these out. Can I just hook up the same 12v battery to the controller to test? Will that give me a solid test of the validity of the controllers? Without riding it, of course. I just need to see if I have one, or two, or zero working karts. That is just so I can see how much I am going to have to convince my wife to let me put into them for Christmas presents!! :lol:

Any help would be awesome!!
I am trying to replace the controller on one of these, but the YK48-3 is not longer available. I see that you were going to use a different model at the top of your thread. But then you found the YK48-3. I was thinking about going with the original controller, but I am not too sure how to wire in the reverse. Any ideas??
I have a minimoto that the previous owner replaced the controller on. However he didn’t figure out the training mode/ normal mode switch so he just clipped the wire to the switch and as far as I can tell, the replacement controller didn’t have a dedicated wiring Clío for the mode. The go kart is permanently stuck in training mode. Does anyone know how I can connect the mode switch to the controller? Not sure if I can just wire it into any of the existing harness clips, like the one with the brake or lights or something. Please let me know. I’m pretty novice with this stuff but what I have read on this thread is right on topic. My other functions work, like reverse and what not. I just didn’t read anything about tackling the training/ normal mode mod except that it was listed on the original wiring harness.
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