Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
for 12v vehicles that NEED to be upgraded to 18v
By wyattroa
#140374
I just don't know what to do at this point. I have replaced every switch in all 3 jeeps. I have then just transferred in the stage 2 kit to each. Each jeep had a different connecting method from the motors to the wires. 1 was a complete solder, the other bullets, the other XT60 connection.

Each and every single one failed. The jeeps all start out on the driveway. They spin the tires and take off driving through the grass. Once stopped on the grass, the second they press the pedal to go again the fuse blows. This is with a 40LB kid in the jeep. Every single jeep failed in the same way.

ML toys said it was the switched the first time I mentioned it. Fixed that problem, then they said every now and then the connection might be bad with the terminals, but it doesn't happen very often. Also said I might need to replace the entire wire system. Not in any spot on their website does is say you might need to replace all switches, you might need to replace the entire wiring harness.

So now, I have 3 jeeps who all failed. Seriously, the connections on all 3 jeeps are junk? The terminals on all 3 jeeps are bad?

I tried running the STOCK jeep with all stock parts on the 18v...it WORKED FINE...yet the second the "upgraded" motors are used the battery blows its fuse....What a joke

All my kids want to do is drive the things and these are the problems we keep running into. At what point would ML toys say, well maybe its not the jeeps?
By wyattroa
#140810
Any idea as to why this would work.

The 18volt battery works perfect with the stock motors. If I put the 18volt in with the stage 2 kit, the fuse blows. All switches are new, wiring cleaned. The problem seems to be the stage 2 kit. If that is eliminated then the jeep works perfect. If the stage 2 kit is installed then the jeep blows the fuse. The wiring doesn't even get warm with the 18v running through the stock setup. The wiring is still cold if I use the 18v on the stage 2 kit.
By edac
#140812
I'm sure they make, and or offer a fine product.
But every time some one makes a post, it's bad. That's why I went with Wesley's "ESC kit". Runs no problem. Did burn up a relay coil last week, Gotta order a 24v coil DPDT 30amp. 24v through a 12v coil only lasted a month or two.
Maybe you can test run the motors with an amp meter on them. My meter is only good for 10 amps, an auto parts store might be able to lend you one that reads higher.
#140814
Edac, what motors are you running? Stock or these "stage 2"

Wyattroa, Wesley offers motors, and I can not testify to their quality, I can highly compliment his quick and thorough email replies. I'm not suggesting that you bug him about products that you bought elsewhere, but if you purchase a set of his motors, I'm confident he would offer product support!
By Rob222
#140816
Try a bigger fuse ? Maybe the new motors just draw more current. At some point the fuse will not blow and at least you will know were the problem is. Do the motors, while attached to the gearboxes, run ok when bench tested ? No binding or drag ? If these are new motors, do the pinions match the gearboxes ?
#140826
Good point rob, you'd mentioned bench test, which reminds me, what's all this "break in under water" stuff?

Also to Wyatt, you never mentioned what batteries or fuse, and fuse location. This info is crucial to getting things straight. I understand the frustration, but the ultimate goal is to get the use of the rides, so let's get together on this.
By wyattroa
#140848
The battery is the 18volt battery from ML toys with the 40amp fuse built into the wiring of the battery. The gears should be good, as they are new and they were a kit from ML toys. The entire gear housing and motors all together. The drop in stage 2 kit.

It just gets old when the same problem has come up multiple times from different people and the shop takes no responsibility. They pin it all on the end user. I have replaced every switch in both jeeps, cleaned every connection in both jeeps. It doesn't matter which jeep I put the stage 2 motor and gearbox kit in with the 18v battery, it will blow the fuse in both jeeps. The wiring should be able to handle the load with no problem. There is no reason I should have to rewire the entire jeep to get this to work.

I am told the switches are bad, I replace them all. Blow a fuse. I am then told your connections are bad, clean those and then blow a fuse. Now I was told the wiring is bad...Really? on both jeeps?

Where would I find wesley kits?
#140850
East coast power up.com
All one word!
Take 15 minutes to check it all out.
Only time I use a 40 amp, is on the 100 pound hurricane, so I don't know what to tell you =/
I'm sorry that you are having such problems. Tear down is easy, but no matter how easy, it's aggravating to do the same ride 10 times!
By wyattroa
#140851
Thanks I will look into it. Just doesn't make sense to me. 18v works fine on the stock setup, but with the stage 2 it blows. Why sell a product if its not going to play nice together. It didn't say anywhere on the website you would have to clean connections, replace switches, re wire the jeep. Sorry for venting again. I just don't like when this problem is seen multiple times on this board and the business just puts it on the end user. It couldn't possibly be a problem with the combination they are selling.
User avatar
By toycrusher
#140853
How much faster are the jeeps with the stage two gearboxes? What terrain are you running on? Level or hilly?
By wyattroa
#140855
They are slightly faster, the kids are just driving it through level cut grass. Nothing extreme. If the kids hit the gas on the concrete, the tires spin and it won't blow the fuse. If the kids hit the gas on the grass, the fuse just blows right away.
User avatar
By wesleyb82
#140857
edac wrote:... Did burn up a relay coil last week, Gotta order a 24v coil DPDT 30amp. 24v through a 12v coil only lasted a month or two.


There is a 100-Ohm resistor in the kit which should be used to lower the voltage for the relay coils so they do not burn out. If you opted for the step down you can skip the resistor and use the power off the step down. The reason there is a 12v coil and not a 24v is that its much easier to step down the voltage than step up the voltage. If you need another relay if you pay for shipping I will fire one out to you. Let me know
User avatar
By toycrusher
#140872
wyattroa wrote:They are slightly faster, the kids are just driving it through level cut grass. Nothing extreme. If the kids hit the gas on the concrete, the tires spin and it won't blow the fuse. If the kids hit the gas on the grass, the fuse just blows right away.


I vote you just run the stock boxes and motors, especially if there is no noticeable improvement in speeds. There's probably binding in the boxes or the "upgraded" motors are just not very efficient and they are drawing too many amps. Either way, unless the company you bought from has a change of heart, you are probably stuck with them. Things too good to be true sometimes are...

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Thanks for the update!

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