M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
for 12v vehicles that NEED to be upgraded to 18v
User avatar
By brdfrd
Sorry if this has been asked/addressed previously--I attempted to search "Gator wiring diagram" and was told that the terms entered were too common, so they were ignore. Great, that was helpful...

We got out first ride on for the boy, a free JD Gator w/no battery or charger. I've got 3, 6 volt 12 Ah batteries coming from Amazon, and an 18 volt charger on the way from Eastcoast Power Up. I also have an 18 volt variable speed drill switch/trigger to use for the throttle.

I tore everything down tonight and found the wiring a bit odd. There are two switches in the pedal, one at the top jut appears to send power to the second switch--trying to sort out why this switch is needed. Second switch has + wire coming from the top switch and a white and blue wire heading to the back. Assuming one is the + and one is the "brake". So looks like I just wire the drill switch in place of the top switch which looks to be the "on", and leave the bottom switch alone.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this older JD Gator? I want to confirm my thinking and be sure I've guessed correctly at how it would function.

Thanks, Brad

User avatar
By brdfrd
The forum doesn't seem to be real active...

Anyway, I had some time tonight to check my assumptions. My batteries didn't come today, so I took a spare automotive battery to test and make sure everything works before I started messing around. Luckily, other than a loose (and some dirty) connection(s), everything worked.

So I pulled the battery connection through the bulkhead so I could access all the wires to jump them and bypass the top switch on the pedal, and run the drill trigger in its place. There were 4 wires on the trigger, +/- coming in from the battery, and +/- going out to the motor. There is also a resistor (I think), and a mosfet/heatsink.
This came out of an 18 volt drill
trigger.JPG (36.01 KiB) Viewed 1979 times
The stock pedal has 2 switches, I assumed that to top one was just an on/off for the power, and the lower one toggled between throttle and brake depending on position. So I figured that the drill trigger would take the place of the top switch to provide variable power. So I jumped both +/- from the battery into the drill trigger, connected the negative out to the negative battery lead in the harness, and then the positive out of the trigger to the lower pedal switch.
trigger test.JPG
Bypassing the top on/off switch in the pedal
trigger test.JPG (52.02 KiB) Viewed 1979 times
This seemed to be exactly what I needed to do. With the lower switch pressed, the drill trigger allowed gentle acceleration up to full throttle. So, now to beef up all the wiring, alter the pedal to accept the drill trigger, and build a tray for the 3 6 volt batteries when they get here.

I wasn't going to do anything else, but I was getting something from my shop area and remembered some 12 volt LED lights I had scavenged. A quick test and they all seem to work. They're in a housing that I ought to be able to screw right into the back of the faux headlights--all I'll have to do, is drill/cut a hole for them.
These should work, 12 volt LED spots
h-light2.JPG (65.94 KiB) Viewed 1979 times
Perfect fit.
h-light.JPG (34.87 KiB) Viewed 1979 times
Thats about it--happy it was so easy to sort out.
User avatar
By toycrusher
Nice! Those peg harnesses can be mindboggling at first, great job sorting it out. Please keep posting on this project as you go :)
User avatar
By brdfrd
Made some progress. Installed the charging port!
gascap.jpg (50.43 KiB) Viewed 1767 times
charge port.jpg
charge port.jpg (60.88 KiB) Viewed 1767 times
wiring.jpg (70.75 KiB) Viewed 1767 times
Batteries came today, so next step is building a tray that they'll fit in.


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