Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Swapping wheels? Adding suspension? Adding traction mods? This is the place for anything between the body and the ground!
#148654
My son has had this ride on Mini cooper for over 2 years now and for the last year it has been 24v. This thing came stock with little rubber centers on the wheels so it has grip. The axles are threaded and the rear axle is actually the axle going through a box tube that is then bolted on to the body of the vehicle. The axle doesn't spin inside the box tubing either.

this is where i'm starting to wonder why power wheels skimps so much on the quality of their cars. The mini cooper is under 300 bucks from every company I can find online and they seem to be the same as the one I bought second hand from a friend and the porsche is over 350.

the main reason I am asking though is because the main reason running 24v through a power wheels is considered scketchy is because the gears strip and get ripped apart. This mini cooper he has had running at 24v for a year NEVER stripped the gears and he ABUSED this thing. Literally cracked the quarters from tweaking the body of the car doing wheelies with it. The motor finally burned up and when I say burned up i mean its literally falling apart inside lol. Smoke was pouring out from under the seat and I ran over to him thinking it was on fire. Luckily that wasn't the case and it was just the motor smoking but i've read SO many stories of people stripping gears and destroying gear boxes just from hitting bumps and stuff in power wheels if there is any added voltage.

I took the motors and boxes apart on the mini cooper and then pulled the new motors out of the porsche since my son doesn't know we have it and won't get it until his birthday. The crazy part is that the mini cooper gears inside look about the same as the power wheels but the boxes are COMPLETELY different. There are about 15 screws holding the cooper ones together as well as a large metal plate holding the motor to the boxes. this makes me think there is no wiggle room for the gears when torque is applied to them. the power wheels had 4 random screws in the boxes and the motors not only had no metal plate but the screws went all the way through the boxes. So that makes me think the motors could easily be tweaked under high torque as well as the gear boxes themselves deforming allowing the gears to move around inside. Even slight movement can cause catastrophic damage to gearing so I am trying to think of ways to reinforce the power wheels set up since I have 775 motors and the univeral ESC kit coming from east coast powerups coming.

The last thing I want to happen is the brand new "cool" power wheels, he has been wanting since before christmas, to break after a very short time of fun.

Hopefully I can get on here with my phone to post some comparison pictures of the two setups in case you guys haven't seen them before.

Image


#148659
Yeah, I think gearbox flex is an issue as well. Not only that, but they're generally flopping around inside the car body and banging forward/back every time you press or release the pedal.

If I didn't have a day job, I'd perhaps think about productizing this mod, which ends up bolting an aluminum plate to a large section of the gearbox:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=21179

I believe that the stiffening does help with longevity, although this mod also removes the 1st gear completely from the equation. So far I only have two sets in use -- one on the truck (usually 24V, rubber-covered tires) and one on the Mustang which is always 36V, and has rubber but with slip-strips to get the right balance for drifting. They're still going strong, even after 36V offroading in the truck and a lot of drift/burnouts in the Mustang. Admittedly, they both have variable-speed controllers but they're not 50A-limited controllers (in fact, they're not current-limited at all), and they have only a 100mS soft-start -- though that 100mS makes quite a bit of difference on the initial stress applied to the gears.

Both sets were run for some time with just the on/off pedal as well. I found that really didn't work well at >9mph (too hard to control), and the EE in me wanted to build some variable-speed controllers anyway.

As a side benefit, since the metal plate that mounts the motors can be repositioned relative to the internal gears, I can now swap pinion gear +/- a few teeth to trade off torque vs. speed.

Interesting that there would be the Mini one would be that beefy. I took apart a ride-on someone had given to me (unknown brand, but also had a rubber strip on the tires from the factory) and it had a mix of plastic and metal gears, which I found interesting -- unfortunately it did not fare any better than the PW gearboxes and had stripped out one of the plastic gears. The housing was sturdier though.

(BTW, the Photobucket link isn't working -- would love to see the pictures though)
#148676
I'm trying to fix my photobucket links. Not sure whats going on. Is there a new site people use? I haven't had to host pictures in like 6 years so I don't know if there is another site better than photobucket.

That setup with the dual motors looks awesome.

No joke I have been working with my brother to come up with a better drop in solution for these cheap plastic gear boxes.

To test I need to find out just how much money people are willing to invest into these power wheels if the product was completely customize-able as far as gear ratio goes (AFTER purchase meaning you can do it at home if the gearing needs to be changed) and also WAY more "indestructible" than the plastic boxes used on any ride on. Not 100% sure this is even possible since I haven't checked to see if the special gears used to go out to the wheels are patented or not but what i'm debating doing would be all metal setup ie box, gears and all.

but for now I have the full universal ESC with variable throttle setup and 775 motors ready to be installed now.
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