M.L. Toys
M.L. Toys
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Need new motors? Grind a gearbox? Adding teeth to a pinion?
By bricklayer99
Here is my opinion of the ultimate gearbox/motor combo.

1. Either the Banebots 775-18v

These are 700 series. They will fit Metal frame jeep gearboxes and #7s gearboxes (with a 3/32-1/8 shim). This is what I use in my 24 volt ESC mods. They are astounding! Not sure if stock wiring can handle them. They are currently under $18 each.

Motor Specifications Performance
Model M5-RS775-18
Operating v : 6v - 20v
Nominal v : 18v
No Load RPM : 19500
No Load A : 2.7A
Stall Torque : 166.4 oz-in 1175 mN-m
Stall Current : 130A
Kt : 1.28 oz-in/A 9 mN-m/A
Kv : 1083 rpm/V
Efficiency : 78%
RPM - Peak Eff : 17040
Torque - Peak Eff : 23.99 oz-in 169.4 mN-m
Current - Peak Eff : 18.7A
Weight : 11.9 oz (337g)
Length - for motor : 2.81 in (71.3mm)
Diameter (with flux ring) : 1.85 in (47mm)
Diameter (no flux ring) : 1.66 in (42.1mm)
ShaftDiameter : 0.2 in (5mm)
Shaft Length : 0.3 in (7.6mm)
Mounting Screws (2) M4

These are the motors.....

They are actually Mabuchi RS775WC-8514. The part number is on them under the BaneBots sticker.

I had lots of questions about these so I had to test them. I was looking for more torque and the 1175 mn-m rating on these was astounding. The stock PW motors are under 400 mn-m. They are advertised at 273 watts at peak efficiency. (scooter motors are 250 watts)

I was concerned about the gearboxes and the wires. These draw lots of amps!

The first thing that caught my eye was the thickness of the torgue big chunk of steel!

I put these in my 18 volt 4x4 jeep for testing. Since they are 18 volt motors I installed them without heatsinks, just like they came out of the box.

The motors bolted right to the #7 gearboxes without issue. The pinion , however, required some "tinkering". The shaft on this motor is not long enough to install the pinion gear "backwards" as required for the #7 GB. I installed it frontwards(set screw side facing the motor) and made a shim out of some lexan scraps to line up the gear.

It was easy to trace the motor onto the clear lexan. I cut out a few cooling slots, along with the monting holes, so the air could pass into the motor.

Due to the slightly lower rpm of this motor, I swapped out the 19ts for some 21ts.


I am using a 60/80 amp throttle relay in this jeep. I have no idea how stock stuff would hold up. The 12 ga wire will all 4 motors running off it, gets slightly warm. The motors have not exceeded "warm" either

At one point there were two kids in this (about 80 pounds) in deep wet snow. Barely any straining and no slowing down. It became stuck at one point and the rear wheels (with traction aids) never stopped spinning! Those of you in the snow belt know what usually happens.....stall....SMOKE!

The gearboxes are ok so far. I do have the drivers start in low and shift up to high. The one time he forgot, the front tires lifted a good 6 inches off the ground.

I also think that they have so much torque that they are running at the "no load" RPM. A PW on flat ground does not load them enough to slow them down. This also means that they draw less than the advertised amps under "normal use".

If you have upgraded your wire/switches....and are looking for excessive torque....These are a good choice.

2. Or I've used these

I took a pair of theseDeWalt Part # 393111-01
Voltage 18vdc (can be overvolted)
RPM 20,000 ungeared
Output gear 16 Teeth, nonstandard pitch
Gearbox BPDGFGD18
Weight 18.8oz (1.175lb)
Length 78mm (3.07")
Diameter 46mm (1.8")
Output pinion 16 tooth gear
Shaft 5mm dia x 7mm
Armature Resistance: 0.072 Ohms
Stall Current: 250 Amps
Torque Constant: 1.2 ozf-in/Amp
Stall Torque: 300 ozf-in
Angular-velocity Constant 1100 RPM/v
No-load Current: 2.6 Amps
Peak Power: 1.5 HP
Peak Effeciency: 81%

And to maintain reliability of the box under higher rpms than the factory intended adding rc bearings to the first gear in.

1. Re: Project: Unibody Jeep 4X4
by taz11 » Mon Nov 07, 2011 9:35 pm
Here are the details of the bearing installation in the #7 gearboxes.

The bearings are from Ebay. They are 3/8 OD x 1/4 ID. The same ones bricklayer used in his mod.

The bearings fit in the case like they belonged there. On the motor side of the case I used a nylon spacer (Ace hardware $.31) to space the bearing out flush with the inside of the case.


I drilled out the gear to 1/2 inch. This part proved to be problematic...the hole ended up off center. I found that if I started with a 3/8 bit and worked up one size each time( 8 bits total), the hole stayed centered...or centered enough.
Then I hammered in a 1/2 x 1/4 nylon sleeve (Ace hardware). The nature of the plastic gear tends to make the 1/2 hole slightly small due to the flex when drilling. This holds the sleeve in place perfectly. I needed to tap it in with a hammer. Then I ground off the excess untill it was flush on both sides.

For the next step I cut a 15/16 length of 1/4 rod. Regular rod stock, not the hardened stuff. I then hit it several times with a center punch to make dimples. These dimples make it a press fit into the gear/sleeve.


Total time once I had it figured out...20-30 minutes per side.Last edited by taz11 on Mon Nov 07, 2011 9:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!..........Out of somebody's garbage

Looking for these motors "9013"(bottom one) ... rs_775vcwc
Please let me know if you see any!

Found the "8514" thanks to Bricklayer99

Here is another version

by bricklayer99 » Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:04 am
After melting multiple gears and gb @ the first gear in Ive been talking with taz about a solution and he found some small rc bearings 1/4" i.d. 3/8"o.d. here is a few pics of the install. I have not tested them yet nylon spacers epoxied into the 3/8 hole bearing epoxied into one end of gear bearing on other side of gear

The gear spins freely, hopefully this will help cure my problemAttachments gear and bearings rotating on 1/4" hardened shaft cut from 1/4 shoulder bolt

I've done some math for different gearboxes using the banebots for reference this is with a 15" tall tire
With a 21t gb @ 12v = 5.19mph 18v =7.7mph
19t. @ 12v = 4.65mph 18v. 6.9mph
16t. 12v. 3.94mph. 18v. 5.9mph
13t. 12v. 3.22mph. 18v. 4.8 mph

So with the banebots and a 21t gb you would have a slightly faster than stock ride that would be a torque monster and a blast at 18 v
Last edited by taz11 on Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:53 am, edited 2 times in total.

User avatar
By taz11
So with the banebots and a 21t gb you would have a slightly faster than stock ride that would be a torque monster and a blast at 18 v

TRY 24V! :D

These motors will reduce the gearboxes to shreds if run on 24 volts without an ESC (electronic speed control)
Last edited by taz11 on Tue Jan 24, 2012 11:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By Qcustomz1
will this motor be too much for my kids jeep running 18volts with 15" tall rubber tires??
User avatar
By Qcustomz1
ive ran the jeep on 24volts with rubber tires and no problem. but its too quick for my son.
what about the 12$ motor from banebot.. just under the $18 motor??
im gonna make it 4 wheel drive.
trying to come up with a little rock crawler... any ideas?
Honestly I'm not expert but I've broken enough parts to share my experiences that do work. For a rock crawler I would gear down as much as possible. 13t 7r gb and the banebot motors. 24v with an esc, top speed would be 6.4 mph and would be controllable in climbing situations. In your 24v jeep did you use an esc? I used dewalt motors with an esc and even with monster traction plastic tires it would shred the gears inside.
User avatar
By Qcustomz1
esc you mean an R/C speed control?? no just direct 24volts to motor... no problems yet.
yesterday i let my son drive in mud with 12 volts he didnt like it.. kept getting stuck..
i need esc for a slow start?
i have 6 19t gearboxes i was gonna use those maybe i stay with 18volts for now?
User avatar
By Qcustomz1
can you give me more details on ESC PLEASE
ESC electronic speed control. im sure its similar to the rc applications you work with. Typically used in electric scooters.
It uses a 3 wire throttle that you would replace the stock go pedal with. This is a hall effect pedal typically with + 5v , ground and signal wire. there is lots of info in the bpro esc section of the forums, some is way over the top some is very basic. Ive had good luck with using the stock switches but the braking must be handled with relays to survive. parts are usually bought from, $20 for the esc and $12 for the throttle. the esc uses pulse width modulation to give you variable speed and a "slow start" it limits amperage to a set amount so that your ride on accelerates smoothly, reducing the harsh impact onthe gear boxes.
User avatar
By Qcustomz1
ok..that what i figured u were talkin about.. i havent ordered yet .cause tncscooter has been out of the lbd14 for a couple months now.. he recommend the lb27.. not sure since i haven seen anyone use it yet.. thanks for your help. now just wait till i find a good esc
User avatar
By rinowish
So i'd been planning on getting the DeWalt motors even before Bricklayers VERY convincing results...
They have about the same RPM as the banebot motors (such a small difference to be conserned with) but nearly twice the torque... The problem is they are $40+, and i will be needing 4 (2 for each Gaucho... 4WD will have to wait)

I came accross this site:
Which has them for $36.95... now I know what you are thinking "Wow you saved $3 and change"
But there is more... Shipping is better than MOST of those other websites i've found coming in at under $10 for 4 motors, AND if for a limited time, if you enter "save5" in the coupon/discount field you save 5% on orders over $55 (which is only 2 motors)...

I can get all 4 motors shipped from this site less than any other site even before shipping is added.

Anyone looking for the DeWalts, act now get the 5% and save some money.

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