Gruber
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M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
Gruber
HobbyMasters
M.L. Toys
KidsWheels
HobbyMasters M.L. Toys
Gruber
KidsWheels
Need new batteries? Going from 12V to 18V or 6V to 12V? Wiring Questions?
#150932
Title explains it. This is an old Barbie 12v Power Wheels Jeep and just suddenly my daughter said 1st gear and Reverse don't work, only 2nd gear. (This is not the case however if manually switched)

So I took the seat off, removed the shifter assembly (leaving everything plugged in), opened the shifter assembly cover and, as you're likely familiar, there's two toggle switches in there.

If both are toggled forwards, 2nd gear works. Power to both motors in high speed

If the 'front' switch is left clicked forwards and the other switch is clicked backwards, reverse WORKS. Power to both motors in reverse.

If the front switch is clicked backwards, what should work (1st and reverse), doesn't.

So I don't really know if 1st gear works but what seems apparent is that the backwards clicked position of the 'front' switch doesn't work.

How can I further diagnose, and more importantly fix, this particular issue?

Most threads on this topic seemed to be geared towards no 1st AND Reverse and the solution is either the motors (nope) or dirty switches (doubtful, since they worked fine and then suddenly didn't work). They didn't corrode in a split second.

Thanks.


#150933
I changed the switches all around - location, orientation....

It's one of the switches not working in one of its positions, that's it.

So I opened it up and there's really nothing to them. Couple rockers, a couple of contacts and a couple of springs. All clean and seemingly in good order.

Weird. I can't figure out what's causing the issue.
#150937
It sounds like your hi/lo switch may be the culprit (or the wiring on the lo side). Switches can fail at any time and a little corrosion or carbon buildup can cause a switch to lose it's physical contact/electrical conductivity. Here is a link to the switch thread (even though it sounds like you've already opened the switches up).
viewtopic.php?f=40&t=95

If the motors are good and you have verified the rev/fwd switch still works then I would double check that hi/lo switch. If I am reading you post correctly, by opening the shifter and manually manipulating the switches you have made it work by forcing the motors to run in fwd/rev while keeping the hi/lo switch in hi. If this is the case, then you would notice the wheel speed was always in hi and it was running in parallel (12v to each wheel the whole time in both fwd and rev).

I recommend cleaning the switches up even if they look okay. It wouldn't hurt either way. You can test switch continuity with a multi-meter/ohm meter. center contacts are common. Outer contacts are switched open/closed depending on rocker position.
#150950
wired wrote: Sun Jun 09, 2019 8:15 am It sounds like your hi/lo switch may be the culprit (or the wiring on the lo side).

If the motors are good and you have verified the rev/fwd switch still works then I would double check that hi/lo switch. If I am reading you post correctly, by opening the shifter and manually manipulating the switches you have made it work by forcing the motors to run in fwd/rev while keeping the hi/lo switch in hi. If this is the case, then you would notice the wheel speed was always in hi and it was running in parallel (12v to each wheel the whole time in both fwd and rev).

I recommend cleaning the switches up even if they look okay. It wouldn't hurt either way. You can test switch continuity with a multi-meter/ohm meter. center contacts are common. Outer contacts are switched open/closed depending on rocker position.
Yes, you've got it exactly. I'll open up the switch again and see if I can sort things out.

If it turns out to be completely clean, could you describe for me in more detail how to test it with a multi-meter and then, if it tests ok, what I would look for in the wiring?

However, I really think it's the switch despite it appearing clean, etc. because if I flip the switches' positions AND flip them upside down, it's the same side of the rocker position that fails wherever I place it.
#150954
I'd have no problem walking you through a switch ringout. Takes about 2 miniutes. The switch has six terminals. Look at it as two rows of three. Put your multi-meter in the lowest setting for ohms (resistance). The meter lead colors don't matter for this. Place one meter lead on the center terminal of one side and keep it there (remember two rows of three) place the other meter lead on either of the outer terminals (either side of the center terminal where you have the first meter lead). Flip the switch/rocker back and forth while you have the meter leads touching the terminals and your reading should go from .1 ohms (closed) to infinite ohms (open). Open should read the same as when you do not have the leads connected to anything. Repeat for both outer terminals. Do this for each set of three terminals and you should find the bad set of contacts if there is one (or more). As for wires, look for dirty or corroded terminals; pretty much anything discolored and not grey or silver.

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